Stuck Round Ball

[idahoron]

Ron, with all due respect I wonder how you know this?
You may be right or wrong, I wouldn't know since I take your word at face value.

I would tend to understand how direct flame would affect the color of the iron or steel since the flame temperature can't be controlled as easily as with molten lead.
But not sure how or how much the heat from molten lead would alter the color.
And if it did alter the color wouldn't it be only a little bit on the surface?
Perhaps easily dealt with?
I will admit that using molten lead could be taking a risk.
I wouldn't know where to research the answer to the question of how much risk of damage can molten lead cause to an antique barrel, or antique barrel exterior finish.

Here's the photo of the barrel: --->>> http://castboolits.gunloads.com/atta...3&d=1608459635

I used to be a millrite In my previous job. I had to heat up bearings, shafts, and other metal parts. While I never took a direct temperature of the part being heated I did see the parts at times change color. The color changes during the heating with a torch by the torch.
The hot lead probably would not affect the outside color of the barrel.
On a 200 year old gun I just wouldn't do it. Dealing with melted lead in the barrel sticking to the colder places in the barrel would also not be fun.

[idahoron]

I have also built knives as a hobby. When grinding a blade it the metal turns color you have changed the hardness in that area of the blade. I would think it would be the same for a barrel. If the color of the metal in a small spot changes it may have altered the integrity of the barrel.

[cas]

Heating a gun that might be loaded... er...
Just because the gun is 200 years old, doesn't mean the powder is.

[SSGOldfart]

Good point on the powder. Humm wish I could help

[Drm50]

I was getting so many ball removals that I made tools. 3/8th brass rod. Center drilled for 1/8” drill bit held with set screw. Have stainless wood screw turned to fit in the same rod. NEVER use drywall screws to pull bullets. They are brittle and can break off in ball. Then you got more problem. I have socket brazed on other end of rod. I hand turn rod to drill 1/8” hole clear through ball. Then put the screw to it, using T handle in socket. Then pull out, if stuck I have a weight to slide over rod as slap hammer. In OPs case and after all his attempts I would drill ball by hand 1/2” and grind a chisel out of a paddle bit and split what is left. You should then be able to pour the pieces out.

[GregLaROCHE]

I was getting so many ball removals that I made tools. 3/8th brass rod. Center drilled for 1/8” drill bit held with set screw. Have stainless wood screw turned to fit in the same rod. NEVER use drywall screws to pull bullets. They are brittle and can break off in ball. Then you got more problem. I have socket brazed on other end of rod. I hand turn rod to drill 1/8” hole clear through ball. Then put the screw to it, using T handle in socket. Then pull out, if stuck I have a weight to slide over rod as slap hammer. In OPs case and after all his attempts I would drill ball by hand 1/2” and grind a chisel out of a paddle bit and split what is left. You should then be able to pour the pieces out.

This is a good idea and one that I would opt for. I now need to decide if it is practical for me to fabricate the tools or just take it to a smith who specializes in these old guns. Part of my decision will be based on the fact that my shop is all packed up in boxes, because of having a concrete pad poured. (I posted about it in Special projects Reloading Room Floor) Unfortunately, that project has not gone well and I don’t know when my shop will be back in operation. Will my wife let me temporary set up my mini lathe, drill press, bench grinder etc in the kitchen? Do I even want to?

[Drm50]

I forgot to add that I have brass bushings for 45-50-54 that center my 3/8ths rod in bore. I’m a believer in turning this rod by hand. Drilling lead is easy and hooking to drill just increases chances of something going wrong.

[arcticap]

DRM50.
Do you neutralize the powder before drilling or do you feel that your set up doesn't require it at first?
One of the TC manuals was very clear about neutralizing the powder before using a ball puller screw.
Of course a gun company is going to recommend being extra cautious.

Can drilling be done before neutralizing the powder, so that liquid can be poured in through the hole in the ball?
Then once neutralized the powder is safe for using the paddles?

The nipple hole is so small and a blockage in the flash channel may prevent the powder from getting thoroughly soaked and neutralized from the breech end.

[GregLaROCHE]

The problem is how to neutralize the powder. I have confirmed there is BP, by pushing a tiny drill through the nipple and removing some. I now wish I had thought to try and ignite it. If I could get the nipple out it would be easy to add something to neutralize the powder, if not even remove it. The hole in the nipple is so small that it won’t let air vent out to get any liquid in. I have considered putting the end of the barrel in boiling water though.

[NyFirefighter357]

OK, back to the grease. Do you not want to try the needle adapter? They come in many tip sizes. What about adapting a brass or aluminum block or pipe nipple to the outside of the tapered cap nipple? You can adapt any grease fitting the block or you can get an 1/8" NPT brass nipple and coupling & an 1/8" NPT grease fitting, screw them together and taper the inside of the exposed brass nipple to fit the outside of you nipple cap. Have you tried to just put the grease gun on the nipple cap? The block could be drilled at the approx angle of the nipple cap so that the block is parallel to the barrel, tapper the hole and drill & tap a corresponding hole in the top to fit a grease fitting. You could then use shims & a clamp to hold the block tightly over the nipple cap pump the grease in. I have the Co2 tool that the tire inflator & co2 muzzleloader discharger are based off of & they build up 300+ psi. https://images.app.goo.gl/AokiA4EhhcQL1FXi9 It uses 8gr C02, why didn't it work, couldn't get a good seal? Jason

[GregLaROCHE]

I’ve haven’t tried the CO2 yet because I haven’t been able to get the screw in type cartridges for the inflater. I have some ordered. If you say they can build up to 300 psi, that could make a difference. I managed to get a good seal with my compressor, but it wasn’t giving me much more than 100 psi. 300 psi may make a big difference.
It’s a good idea to try the plain grease gun on the nipple. It’s not that much different from a Zirk fitting. Making an adapter that can be clamped in place to keep a seal with higher pressures is a good idea too. It’s just as I said in my earlier post, my shop is all packed up for the moment.
Greg

[country gent]

if you cant get the nipple out pick up some clear rubber tubing 3-4 feet long push on nipple a wood dowel in the bore ta rube to barrel and wood rod. a small vet syringe can be used at the top as a funnel reservoir also. fill with penetrant and let sit standing up right. The higher you can get the tube the better. fill full and let sit for a few days. This will give some mild pressure and work in to where it needs. Fluids tend to seek an equal level so the raised tube tries to fill the barrel thru capillary action. Thinner fluids work better here also.

[merlin101]

I haven't read all the posts so I don't know if this has been suggested, but has anyone suggested using mercury? just stand the bbl up in a pan in a corner and pour a small amount of mercury down the muzzle and then wait a day or so and it will dissolve the lead and then you just pour it out.

[cas]

I thought of that early on, but didn't think it was something you could get anymore.

[idahoron]

I had some mercury switches from a old boiler. I don't have them any more, but I didn't know that Mercury would do that.

[cas]

In the old days before people realized how very bad it was for them, folks used it to de-lead barrels. How well it worked, I have no idea.

[GregLaROCHE]

I haven't read all the posts so I don't know if this has been suggested, but has anyone suggested using mercury? just stand the bbl up in a pan in a corner and pour a small amount of mercury down the muzzle and then wait a day or so and it will dissolve the lead and then you just pour it out.

This is an original idea. I never would have thought of it. The question is if mercury is easily available. Where to find it and how much does it cost?

[country gent]

Mercury is hazardous fumes and the material itself, I dont think its even used in thermometers anymore. The other question I have is once you get the lead mercury mix out, How do you dispose of it safely? Doing this in the basement would more than likely have fumes thru house and clothes. If furnace is in basement then even mire so.

[indian joe]

I forgot to add that I have brass bushings for 45-50-54 that center my 3/8ths rod in bore. I’m a believer in turning this rod by hand. Drilling lead is easy and hooking to drill just increases chances of something going wrong.

all good info here ..................................

[LIMPINGJ]

Guess all of us that as kids and played with Mercury from thermometers and with it in science class don’t have much time left.