Stuck Round Ball

[DanishM1Garand]

I've heard of using a grease gun to push stuck balls out, if you can get the nipple removed and are able to put a fitting on to use with the grease gun. Always thought it sounded like it'd be a real mess to clean up though.

My dad would use a brand new high quality grease gun to free a stuck engine. He swore it was 3500 psi. Find a grease nipple the correct thread pitch. That stuck ball has no choice but to come out.

[gumbo333]

GreglaR did you get the old ball out? If you can't get the grease gun/ zerk to work ( likely the pressure will push the zerk out first) rather than brazing a screw to a long rod, braze on a drill bit. Drill progressively larger holes in the lead ball. Wrap some electrical tape around the long rod in a few places for protection. At some point that old ball should come out in pieces. I would think old black powder sitting in a barrel for 200 years would be inert by now or a little Balistol seeping in would kill it.

[Brass&Lead]

If you have the tools and skill available, make a piece that is tapered to match the nipple on one end with a standard grease fitting on the other. Strap that to the firearm and pump in the grease.

Once the ball (and powder?) is out you can clean and soak the nipple. Heat and cold helps even if it is just a bit. Tightening and loosening the nipple will help break it free. Make sure your wrench fits it snugly. It took a long time to get stuck, take your time getting it unstuck.

[GregLaROCHE]

My CO2 tire inflation device arrived yesterday, but to my irritation, didn’t contain a CO2 cartridge. I hope to get one today and see if this method works.

I’ve been considering the drill out method too. Unfortunately, I don’t have a source for metal rods long enough near by.

For those wondering, it’s .69 cal.

[Edward]

Your lucky you don"t have metal rod ,perhaps the gun will survive/Ed

[Jeff Michel]

If you have a drill press available, place your nipple wrench in the chuck, place your barrel in a padded vise. Align and support the barrel as necessary. Lower the spindle to engage the nipple wrench onto the nipple. While exerting downward force on the spindle arm, turn the chuck with a tommy bar fitted into one of the wrench hole in the chuck. Make sure that the wrench and nipple are seated completely and the project is clamped so as it is unmovable. The downward force on the spindle will keep the wrench from camming away from the nipple and you will be able to exert an incredible amount of force. This also a great way to remove stubborn screws. Good luck with your project.

[GregLaROCHE]

Well my wife got back with CO2 cartridges, but they are the the wrong type. They don’t have threads to screw into the inflater. I guess this project is now on hold until after Christmas.

Merry Christmas to all who have been following this thread and offering advice.

[gumbo333]

If you try the drill press idea (its a good idea but a 2 man job - large channel locks work good to turn with) possibly heat the nipple with a wood burning tip. It won't get too hot to hurt the metal. This is the trick used to remove scope base screws or other screws in a gun, that someone used "red" lokstite on. 200 year old rust\ corrosion may be similar to red lokstite.

[arcticap]

If the powder can be neutralized, it's possible to melt the lead ball which would let you simply pour the metal out.
A guy posted about melting a ball by placing the breech end of the barrel in a pot of molten lead.
I don't recall if he blocked the nipple hole or how.
Perhaps direct heat might even work such as if it were placed directly on top of an electric stove element.

There's so many other good ideas.
I'm not advocating melting the ball under the circumstances,
However:
The melting point of pure lead is 621.43 F,
The auto-ignition temperature of black powder is 464 C = 867.2 F.

Does Idahoron think that 700 F heat would damage the antique barrel steel?

[idahoron]

Does Idahoron think that 700 F heat would damage the antique barrel steel?

Yes I most certainly think that the steel in a 200 year old gun should not be heated. It would change the appearance of the steel in that area. The only way to fix that would be a total restoration. That really should not happen.

[country gent]

Heres another trick I have used.
Make a rod the length you need plus with a t handle drill and tap for a long thread puller.. Put a stop collar on the rod and a soft brass or copper washer under it. When the screw is well engaged in the ball slide the washer stop collar down snug and tighten to rod. You have just made a crew jack. Turn handle the the screws mechanical advantage pulls the ball, not muscle. Work smarter not harder.

[indian joe]

GreglaR did you get the old ball out? If you can't get the grease gun/ zerk to work ( likely the pressure will push the zerk out first) rather than brazing a screw to a long rod, braze on a drill bit. Drill progressively larger holes in the lead ball. Wrap some electrical tape around the long rod in a few places for protection. At some point that old ball should come out in pieces. I would think old black powder sitting in a barrel for 200 years would be inert by now or a little Balistol seeping in would kill it.

I would think again about old powder being inert - kill it with ballistol yes but dont put a torch on that old load ifn its dry unless you got yr earmuffs on!!!

[carbine]

Cant wait to hear the outcome

[WRideout]

Another member here who happens to live nearby (not mentioning names without permission) told me that he once removed a stuck barrel from a rifle action by alternately freezing, then warming the action. After a number of iterations, the barrel unscrewed rather easily.

Wayne

[GregLaROCHE]

This project has been on hold because of the holidays. I bought a CO2 bicycle tube filler, but now can’t find the cartridges with threads to make it work. I have ordered some, but they won’t be here for another week. I may give a little try with compressed air. Maybe a combination of air pressure and the ball screw might work. The barrel has been vertical with Ballistol in it for several weeks now, but no sign of it getting past the ball/load and coming out of the nipple. I’ll keep posting on progress. Happy New Year to everyone! Greg

[GregLaROCHE]

Well compressed air didn’t work. I pressurized it to over 100 psi and pulled on it with the ball worm. Nothing budged. Will the CO2 inflater have much more pressure? I kind of doubt it. My next step may be to take it to a gunsmith.

The nipple has a 7mm square to unscrew it. Does anyone know where a four or even eight point socket can be bought? I haven’t been able to find one. I would even consider a set if the 7mm was included. Too bad it’s not 6mm. Then I might able to use a 1/4” drive socket upside down. Maybe I should consider modifying a 1/4” socket with a file to fit. I could then put a bolt in the end of the socket with some vise grips on it.

[AntiqueSledMan]

Hello GregLaRoche,

Did you look at "Track of the Wolf".
They might have a wrench for your nipple.

AntiqueSledMan.

[GregLaROCHE]

I checked TOW, but they don’t seem to have the size I need.

[kenton]

You might try a chuck style tap wrench, it would at least grab to full corners and have as tight fit as you want.

[arcticap]

Yes I most certainly think that the steel in a 200 year old gun should not be heated. It would change the appearance of the steel in that area. The only way to fix that would be a total restoration. That really should not happen.

Ron, with all due respect I wonder how you know this?
You may be right or wrong, I wouldn't know since I take your word at face value.

I would tend to understand how direct flame would affect the color of the iron or steel since the flame temperature can't be controlled as easily as with molten lead.
But not sure how or how much the heat from molten lead would alter the color.
And if it did alter the color wouldn't it be only a little bit on the surface?
Perhaps easily dealt with?
I will admit that using molten lead could be taking a risk.
I wouldn't know where to research the answer to the question of how much risk of damage can molten lead cause to an antique barrel, or antique barrel exterior finish.

Here's the photo of the barrel: --->>> http://castboolits.gunloads.com/atta...3&d=1608459635