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Thread: Sharping Stone for Axes

  1. #41
    Boolit Buddy kfd518's Avatar
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    May 2015
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    161
    Not often I have to stone my “hatchet” husqvarna carpenters axe. I use my normal smiths oil stone on knives axes and hatchets then it’s off to a piece of leather glued to an old white oak floor board with green polishing compound on it. Any one of them will shave but I feel the Myriad of straights sharpened on 5000/1000 grit trues wet stone does a much better job on the face (chromium oxide green polishing compound is a sharp but aggressive edge on a straight razor).

  2. #42
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
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    North Central
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    The puck style works just fine.
    "If everyone is thinking the same thing it means someone is not thinking"

    "A rat became the unit of currency"

  3. #43
    Banned

    tomme boy's Avatar
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    May 2011
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    Clinton, Iowa
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    I use a 2" belt sander. Pretty much the exact same thing all the manufacturers use if they even sharpen them.

  4. #44
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Apr 2020
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    I don't use a stone on my axes - two single cut files (a bastard cut and a smooth cut) do the job perfectly well. It's not so much about the tools, it's about being able to use them and understanding what you need to achieve with them.

    Axe cutting edge geometry is basically about severing the wood fibers to an adequate depth, and then wedging the chips out of the kerf. All without being susceptible to glancing or getting stuck. Of course, your actual swing and accuracy has a lot to do with this as well, but it's a lot easier when the tool is right.

    I am a big fan of around a 17 degree flat cutting edge profile, with about a 30 degree micro bevel a little more than 1/32 back. This is usually achieved by laying the file until it almost touches the eye. The flat profile is much better at preventing unwanted glances than a convex one, and does not tend to bounce out of the cut.
    The basic axe head shape needs to have enough wedge to force the severed chips out of the cut, and a good high center line to prevent sticking. I have reshaped several modern hardware store axe heads with good results. Just look at something like an old Kelly and you'll see what I mean.

    I use axes because I like them, and I think it's a skill everyone should know. But I do like my two Husqvarna forestry saws, too!

  5. #45
    Boolit Master



    skeettx's Avatar
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    Jul 2009
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    Amarillo, Texas
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    +1 on the file
    NRA Benefactor 2004 USAF RET 1971-95

  6. #46
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Florida
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    843
    I've been checking out this guy over the last few weeks and how he restores axes. He's a little crazy and a lot of fun to watch.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WClB_D0QumA

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check