Sharping Stone for Axes

[dangitgriff]

It has been a while since I sharpened an ax but that job was generally done with a file and seldom done in the field.

Lawnmower blades get clamped in a vise and sharpened with an angle grinder. There is no way I'm expending time to sharpen a lawnmower blade.

My grandfather had an assortment of axes and he taught me a lot about the use and care of those tools, most of which I forgot.

One of the most useful axes I've ever seen was a miner's ax. It was sort of an overgrown hatchet, or a short full size ax; not sure how I would classify it.

Forestry ax.

[farmbif]

over the years I've accumulated a few different things , diamond rods and steel rods and stones of different compositions shapes and sizes and when it comes right down to it I've had great success getting very sharp edge put on axe with cheap harbor freight 1" wide belt sander with an old worn out fine grit belt. much quicker and much sharper than what I could do with any of the stones I have tried.

[Tim357]

While I generally use a mill file for touching up an axe, for knife blade maintenance I've found nothing better than the Spyderco Tri-Angle. It is without a doubt the best knife sharpener I've ever used. I do use a coarse stone to set the initial bevel, but the Spyderco rules after that.

[Minerat]

I use one if these for splitting kindling. Much faster and easier then an ax or hatchet and you're not swinging a sharp blade.

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...7343_200647343

[LUCKYDAWG13]

I use one if these for splitting kindling. Much faster and easier then an ax or hatchet and you're not swinging a sharp blade.

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...7343_200647343

Looks kinda kool how long have you been using that

[GhostHawk]

File for removing material. Arkansas stone in the past for touching up an edge. And then one day 4 years ago I watched this youtube vid of an Aussie useing small diamond laps to touch up his Machete in the bush. Small, light weight, removed material faster than stone, yet left a nice polished edge. He was nice enough to leave a link to them on amazon. I have yet to break/wear one out but I have 3 sets of them in the house.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...8CS5QYWO&psc=1

18$ at Amazon

Contains super fine, fine and medium grit diamond stones mounted on color coded plastic holders. Each sharpener is 5 7/8" overall with 2" x 3/4" sharpening surface. Packaged in handy storage pouch.
From the Manufacturer

EZE-LAP Diamond Products has been the pioneer and originator of diamond sharpening tools, starting in the early seventies. Our patented bonding process and modern technology allows us to produce the finest quality sharpening products at an affordable price. This process has often been imitated but never duplicated. EZE-LAP's unique blend of industrial diamonds combined with our patented bonding process gives you the hardest, most durable, longest lasting surface available. Because of this you are able to easily sharpen carbide, tool steel, titanium, ceramics and most any super hard material including the newer materials being used by most knife manufacturers. EZE-LAP manufactures the widest variety of diamond sharpening tools available. This allows you to pick and choose the sharpener that will best serve your needs. No other manufacturer offers the choices we do. We have items for use in the kitchen, shop or field, servicing the outdoor, DIY, machine tool, wood working/wood carving, culinary/food service and other markets. All of our items are proudly Made in the USA.

I will say for most of my knife sharpening work its steel and Strop.

But if I need to remove material, change blade profile, smooth out a nick, I reach for these every time.
Lightweight, durable. a drop or 2 of oil helps prevent gumming up or filling up the surface with removed material.
They are easy to work with and with a little practice are awesome.

[Three44s]

One of my to do list things: Build a belt grinder for our farm shop.

I have no complaints with folks who do fine work sharpening things like axes, while my use of a bench grinder and a good file being careful not to over heat the edge probably gives those same folks heartburn with my methods.

We all have different purposes for our various tools and criteria for their use so it’s understandable that methods for their maintenance will vary.

Best regards

Three44s

[Minerat]

Looks kinda kool how long have you been using that

About 2 years now. I mounted it on a log and just sit on another.

[1hole]

.... And was always told never to use a grinder to sharpen an axe.

I'm 80 now. Many of the things I've learned in those years is that "common wisdom" is often wrong, or at least misleading.

Working on an ax with a common bench grinder isn't very good because it's hard to control working on an edge you can't see and it's quite easy to overheat a thin cutting edge (don't turn it blue). BUT, using a 4 1/2" handheld high speed grinder with sanding disks works great and that contact can be watched and controlled.

I learned that about 15 years ago and haven't used a stone or file on an ax since but, like everything else, there is a learning curve to do it right.

Harbor Freight Tools usually have cheep Chinese hand grinders on "sale" for $10-$12; they aren't powerful or high precision tools but we're talking about occasionally sharpening hardworking axes and they don't seem to care. ???

Or, you can use a large coarse/fine combo carborundum stone from your local hardware store (for about the same price as the grinder) and slowly rub it over that big chunk of steel for a very long time. You know, do it the "right" way!

[MUSTANG]

Been passing by this thread for a couple of days without reading, lot's of good thoughts here on the topic. But; every time I see the topic in my mind I see a picture of my grandmothers people (Black Feet) collecting obsidian or other natural materials and flaking an edge to make an Ax for wood or battle.

[beemer]

I have a good many sharpening stones and hones, more than any sensible person needs so I have tried several on axes. I have too many axes and hatchets too. I keep a small axe in my chainsaw bucket with a leather cover over the bit, comes in handy when you pinch one. I touch it up with a scythe stone, one with a handle. It is easier to work the stone instead of the axe so a handle helps keep your fingers away from the edge. When you are in your shop with access to all your tools almost anything works.

Everyone figures out what works for them, neither right or wrong just different, a lot of good options here. I usually prefer the older style rocks but the diamond hones work well they are compact, light weight and durable. I keep a tiny one in my wallet and my travel kit.

Dave

[gnappi]

I use my grinder, it puts an edge on it in seconds.

[Thundarstick]

I'm in the 4 1/2 inch, high speed angle grinder with different grit sanding disk and flap disk for final finishes. I refurbish and rehaft old axes, nothing beats an angle grinder for rehab, but a belt sander comes in first place for just sharpening.

[StrawHat]

I sharpen things for a living. For axes (hatchets, lawn mower blades, etc), I use a slow speed 1x42 belt sander. 60 grit is great but 40 or 80 will work also. Just keep the blade moving across the belt. If you feel warmth, a water bath or let it air cool. I have restored a lot of nicked up blades.

As for the blade ending up in the soil, the saying, “...let the chips fall where they lie...” is true. If you use an a e for splitting, there will be chips. Leave them on the ground to form a “cushion” between the axe bit and the ground. It helps prevent nicks in the edge.

Kevin

[Pinger87]

I file mine down... old habit from archaeology school when I was sharpening my trowel.

[dangitgriff]

Lizzy Borden recommended this method:

[Wayne Smith]

Looks kinda kool how long have you been using that

I've had mine about four or five years.

[StrawHat]

Just a bit more information for this old thread. I recently started using my DMT diamond stones again for most of my sharpening events. The coarsest one is XXC, and it is maybe a shade finer than a cinder block! Works great for rapid removal of stock. (So far the largest version they make is 3x8”, adequate but I would prefer one like the rest of the series, 2 1/2 x 11”. ). It really restores a dull axe or mower blade.

Kevin

[Alferd Packer]

My Dad used to heat axes , picks and hoes and draw out the metal to a fine point or edge before giving them any filing.
He said you remove too much steel with all that grinding.His father was foreman in coal mine and he sharpened the picks the miners used by drawing the pick to a point with heat.Sometimes he forge welded on a piece and drew that out using heat and a hammer on an anvil.
I wish I had met my Grandpa.
My Dad could speak Russian,Polish, Hungarian, Chech as well as Ukranian, German and he said his Dad knew all those and even Gaelic, Scots and French.After WW2 Dad could make himself understood in Farsi and some other Arab Dialects from North Africa and then Italian from being in Italy.
He said he learned the eastern European at home from his Dad and Mom,but he took Latin , French and Greek in High School and the rest was easy as he travelled thru the War.
My Dad took an insurance Debit selling life insurance after the war in the Packing House District of East St Louis. IL.
He was one of the few who could talk to those people in their native languages and they loved him.
Those people knew how to sharpen tools and how to use them.They were always splitting wood outside or sawing and hammering on wood or metal.
I still can remember seeing people sitting out on the back or front stoop sharpening a knife or a hatchet or sickle on a stone.
Seemed like everybody knew how back then.

[StrawHat]

…I still can remember seeing people sitting out on the back or front stoop sharpening a knife or a hatchet or sickle on a stone.
Seemed like everybody knew how back then...

A necessary housekeeping chore or skill. I was taught by my pop as were my two elder siblings. Very few of my peers were so instructed.

I make a very good living as a sharpener.

Kevin