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Thread: SIZING THE 9MM lUGER CASE

  1. #21
    Boolit Buddy Liberty1776's Avatar
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    Getting 9mm brass sized back to factory spec is, in my view, almost impossible. I've reloaded and successfully fired thousands of rounds, however. To my knowledge, none has ever failed.

    I check each round by dropping it into a Lyman case gauge. If it falls out, I consider it "good." If it sticks or stands proud, it's usually either 1) dirt in the gauge or on the round (brushing out the gauge usually fixes it); 2) damaged cartridge rim or 3) split case.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	9mm case checker IMG_0546.JPG 
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Size:	107.4 KB 
ID:	289972

    That said, it still bothers me that when I employ a really accurate case checker gauge, like the Shooters Box, most of my reloads don't "plunk" into the gauge's "chamber" while factory 9mm fits perfectly.

    In the above picture, you can see the Lyman lets the round in just fine, while the Shooters Box says "no go."

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Shooter's Box 9mm case gauge ebay.jpg 
Views:	12 
Size:	54.0 KB 
ID:	289971

    Not exactly sure why I can't get the brass back to factory spec. I'm using Dillon dies. Perhaps it's that the slight taper the 9mm Luger calls for is not exactly the factory taper. Who knows?

    Does a roll sizer restore the factory spec taper to 9mm? Anybody out there even have a roll sizer?

    All I know is that if my reloads fit the Lyman block, they'll cycle in all my 9mm's reliably.

    If the reloads don't fit the Lyman block, I pull the bullet, powder and primer, and toss the brass.

  2. #22
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Liberty1776 View Post
    Getting 9mm brass sized back to factory spec is, in my view, almost impossible. I've reloaded and successfully fired thousands of rounds, however. To my knowledge, none has ever failed.

    I check each round by dropping it into a Lyman case gauge. If it falls out, I consider it "good." If it sticks or stands proud, it's usually either 1) dirt in the gauge or on the round (brushing out the gauge usually fixes it); 2) damaged cartridge rim or 3) split case.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	9mm case checker IMG_0546.JPG 
Views:	9 
Size:	107.4 KB 
ID:	289972

    That said, it still bothers me that when I employ a really accurate case checker gauge, like the Shooters Box, most of my reloads don't "plunk" into the gauge's "chamber" while factory 9mm fits perfectly.

    In the above picture, you can see the Lyman lets the round in just fine, while the Shooters Box says "no go."

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Shooter's Box 9mm case gauge ebay.jpg 
Views:	12 
Size:	54.0 KB 
ID:	289971

    Not exactly sure why I can't get the brass back to factory spec. I'm using Dillon dies. Perhaps it's that the slight taper the 9mm Luger calls for is not exactly the factory taper. Who knows?

    Does a roll sizer restore the factory spec taper to 9mm? Anybody out there even have a roll sizer?

    All I know is that if my reloads fit the Lyman block, they'll cycle in all my 9mm's reliably.

    If the reloads don't fit the Lyman block, I pull the bullet, powder and primer, and toss the brass.
    Good questions, just know that none of it matters. I’ve stopped even gauging my reloads. When I first started reloading cast I wasn’t expanding enough and would get some lead on the brass, but once I fixed that and started roll sizing all my brass everything plunks in my barrels and shoots fine. BTW, since you f/l size after roll sizing the cases still come out pretty much straight rather than with the factory taper. I’ve tried steel dies and the brass does look slightly closer to factory, but it doesn’t shoot better.

  3. #23
    Boolit Buddy Liberty1776's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimB.. View Post
    once I fixed that and started roll sizing all my brass everything plunks in my barrels and shoots fine. BTW, since you f/l size after roll sizing the cases still come out pretty much straight rather than with the factory taper.
    So, which roll sizer do you use?

    CasePro100.com, Rollsizer.com, or something else?

    I gauge each round because I've caught too many suspect reloads for whatever reason -- worn-out range brass or dinged-up rim.

    My .38 SPL we shoot over and over for SASS. Cases split and don't show up until after the bullet is pushed into the expanded shell.

    Another reason to gauge each round is to check primers.

    Want an almost-horror story?

    I seated a primer in a factory-crimped 9mm primer pocket. It sort of "crushed" into position and visually wasn't right. I set the primed shell aside without reloading.

    Later, I dropped the unreloaded but primed shell into a 9mm Sig and dropped the slide. The primer went off simply due to the slide closing. Wow.

    Moral of the story: I check each round if only to do a visual check on the primers.
    Last edited by Liberty1776; 10-09-2021 at 03:41 PM.

  4. #24
    Boolit Master 243winxb's Avatar
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    New 2021 RCBS dies, has a M type expander. Some brass has a small flash hole (Norma) . Some brass case wall thickness may cause issues.

  5. #25
    Boolit Buddy
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    I use a Dillon sizing die followed by the Lee U die for every cartridge (probably at least 3k per year).

  6. #26
    Boolit Buddy hoodat's Avatar
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    I was thinking of a .391" push-through sizer to solve the problem. jd
    It seems that people who do almost nothing, often complain loudly when it's time to do it.

  7. #27
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Liberty1776 View Post
    So, which roll sizer do you use?

    CasePro100.com, Rollsizer.com, or something else?

    I gauge each round because I've caught too many suspect reloads for whatever reason -- worn-out range brass or dinged-up rim.

    My .38 SPL we shoot over and over for SASS. Cases split and don't show up until after the bullet is pushed into the expanded shell.

    Another reason to gauge each round is to check primers.

    Want an almost-horror story?

    I seated a primer in a factory-crimped 9mm primer pocket. It sort of "crushed" into position and visually wasn't right. I set the primed shell aside without reloading.

    Later, I dropped the unreloaded but primed shell into a 9mm Sig and dropped the slide. The primer went off simply due to the slide closing. Wow.

    Moral of the story: I check each round if only to do a visual check on the primers.
    I use a case pro, it reshapes the rim a bit.
    Loading on a dillon 650 I almost never have primer problems. Have had a few over the years that were a touch high.

    For split 38/357 I almost always find it by sound, when it drops into the bin from depriming (either with the FA deprimer or the Lee APP) it tinkles. Then I go nuts trying to find it. The bin is about 1’x2’ and 10” tall, it can be frustrating.

    I do gauge defensive ammo, just not range ammo.

  8. #28
    Boolit Buddy
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    DOWNZERO nailed it. The Lee "U" die is awesome if you are reloading 9mm from multiple manufacturer's brass. The Lee U Die (or the one made by EGW) undersizes brass between .002" and .003" smaller than other Lee Carbide Sizing dies. When used with a properly matched expander die, the neck tension is perfect when taper crimped to 0.379 against a .357dia polycoated projectile.

    I reload polycoated IbejiHead 9mm 165gr by the thousands on a Dillon 1050 with an Ammobot electric drive. Specific to the progressive press, the combination of a Lee U-Die, Uniquetek's .357 HTC Powder funnel/expander and Lee FCD (que the howls of rage), creates ammo that always passes the case gauge, will shoot 2" groups at 25 yards all day long and feed in every 9mm handgun and carbine I own.

    This has been my experience making ammo by-the-gross. It is probably not necessary if you are reloading for the same manufacturer's chamber (like all Glocks or CZ's) or using the same manufacturer's brass.
    Alcohol Inventory Reduction Specialist (Journeyman Level)

  9. #29
    Boolit Master


    Burnt Fingers's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Liberty1776 View Post
    Getting 9mm brass sized back to factory spec is, in my view, almost impossible. I've reloaded and successfully fired thousands of rounds, however. To my knowledge, none has ever failed.

    I check each round by dropping it into a Lyman case gauge. If it falls out, I consider it "good." If it sticks or stands proud, it's usually either 1) dirt in the gauge or on the round (brushing out the gauge usually fixes it); 2) damaged cartridge rim or 3) split case.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	9mm case checker IMG_0546.JPG 
Views:	9 
Size:	107.4 KB 
ID:	289972

    That said, it still bothers me that when I employ a really accurate case checker gauge, like the Shooters Box, most of my reloads don't "plunk" into the gauge's "chamber" while factory 9mm fits perfectly.

    In the above picture, you can see the Lyman lets the round in just fine, while the Shooters Box says "no go."

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Shooter's Box 9mm case gauge ebay.jpg 
Views:	12 
Size:	54.0 KB 
ID:	289971

    Not exactly sure why I can't get the brass back to factory spec. I'm using Dillon dies. Perhaps it's that the slight taper the 9mm Luger calls for is not exactly the factory taper. Who knows?

    Does a roll sizer restore the factory spec taper to 9mm? Anybody out there even have a roll sizer?

    All I know is that if my reloads fit the Lyman block, they'll cycle in all my 9mm's reliably.

    If the reloads don't fit the Lyman block, I pull the bullet, powder and primer, and toss the brass.
    I'm betting it's the ogive of your boolit. Try dropping sized brass in the case gauge.

    I have went with a EGW 100 round "fat ogive" case gauge for 9mm. If my rounds drop in and out of that they will function in every firearm I shoot them in. However they won't "gauge" in any other gauge.
    NRA Benefactor.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check