Any help on how to copy this video onto my computer?
Any help on how to copy this video onto my computer?
AKA "Old Vic"
"I am a great believer in powder-burning".
--Theodore Roosevelt, Hunting Trips of a Ranchman
I use a Firefox add-on called "Easy Youtube Video Downloader Express" which adds a Download button by the video.
Last edited by AndyC; 02-09-2021 at 05:41 PM.
I saw where a guy made a paper hole punch sized for the cap, left the paper on. He was using a 'tap-a-cap' to make percussion caps, something useful for folks who make their own powder, round balls, and don't worry about brass failing. My brother always said a flintlock shotgun and a percussion revolver would be his bet. One for table fair, one to keep unwanted guests from coming to a table not set for them.
We both have 1858 Remington copies, both still think a nice double flinter, one bbl rifled the other smooth would be the ticket. Happiness is knowing folks with those skills who are willing to teach, in exchange for learning from those who know what he does not. I have been playing with metal forging, forge welding, and many other things needed in a small community . . . you know the rest.
Common sense Gun Safety . . .
Is taught at the Range!
AndyC, thanks for the help. I don't have firefox but got help here: https://www.techradar.com/how-to/dow...youtube-videos
AKA "Old Vic"
"I am a great believer in powder-burning".
--Theodore Roosevelt, Hunting Trips of a Ranchman
Super - whichever method works best for you
Has anybody that has reloaded small pistol primers used 1 or 2 caps? I wondered would you need 2 in it or just 1.
Mrs. Hogwallop up and R-U-N-N-O-F-T.
You need enough composition that it fires on impact and generates enough hot fire/sparks to consistently fire your round; I'd start at maybe 5 and see if it fired quickly and consistently, or hangfired consistently, caps are cheap enough.
The salts created by the combustion of the paper caps is corrosive, but like combustion of standard corrosive primers, the products are water soluble. Hoppes #9 is not designed to remove this kind of chemical. A hot water swab follow by thoroughly drying and THEN the Hoppes would be the best procedure.
Late to this discussion, but very interesting. Excellent original writeup.
I was wondering why I have saved all my spent primers. Now I know.
I got into paper caps when I tried to make percussion caps for my Old Army.
As for pounding out the primer dimple, after removing the anvil, you might try tapping the dimple back using a punch designed to start roll pins. They have a tiny protruding nipple to center the punch on the roll pin.
You should probably have a set of these for normal gunsmithing needs.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1007362114?pid=392639
I am trying out some new formulas (H42 & H48) for percussion caps without much success and found a box of percussion caps I made in 2015 as part of my post
https://castboolits.gunloads.com/sho...ercussion+caps
The caps still fired 100% with a 2 oz drop weight at 21" !
The roll cap technique seems pretty stable after 6 1/2 years. I must admit in my New Mexico basement I have the perfect "cool dry place" for storage.
You joke now but . . .
I laid in a supply of caps, plus a supply of chemicals recommended in other threads over a year ago. Never can tell when primers will go missing right? It just so happens that I found my two old tap-a-caps for making percussion caps as well.
At the range last week I mentioned reloading primers and the guy I was talking to says "Everyone reloads, its just hard getting the primers." I reiterated to him that I was reloading primers and then using then to reload my rifle ammunition. He looked at me like I had three eyes. But then I was shooting rifle ammunition that only cost me cents to reload and he was shooting factory ammo at $30.00 or more for 20 rounds.
I'd like to try EPH20 but am not in a huge hurry for some reason LOL
Winter is coming. Soon it will be time to resume experimentation with the Roll caps, the Prime All and load comparisons with traditional Commercial primers - and I too am thinking of getting correct chemicals for EPH20 as it i reputed to be "Non-Corrosive" where the Cpas and Prime-All is corrosive solutions.
I have sufficient Large and Small Rigle Primers; but am seeing the bottom of the shelf on Large and Small Pistol primers in the reloading shed.
Mustang
"In the beginning... the patriot is a scarce man, and brave and hated and scorned. When his cause succeeds, the timid join him, for then it costs nothing to be a patriot." - Mark Twain.
EPH20 is high lead but no Chlorates. Just do NOT make it in huge amounts. I'd suggest making maybe 35 grams worth at a time. ~4k SPP worth, if you got all that to go off in your face you would NOT be a happy camper. I'm thinking put it away in 2, under 20 gram, containers. If you make a big batch of it all at once please PM me, and let me know how to stay 3-4 counties away from you!
I bought some Prime-All and determined the probable ingredients and approximate weight percentages of their mix.
L2=KClO3 powder ~325 mesh, 2 L scoops=3.4 gr =52.3%
L*= Sb2S3 powder ~325mesh, 1 L scoop=1.4gr=21.5%
S=sulfur powder ~325 mesh, 1 s scoop =1 gr=15.4%
S=glass+shellac powder ~40-200 mesh, 1 S scoop=0.7gr=10.8%
Tenney's book page 456 gives 50.54%,26.31%,8.76%,12.39%, and 2% shellac so that's probably what Prime-All is aiming for with differences due to small sample sizes and packing density of the powders.
The glass grit size is critical to making Prime-All work.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |