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Thread: Smelting Stick On Lead Weights?

  1. #1
    Boolit Mold TexPatriot's Avatar
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    Smelting Stick On Lead Weights?

    I came into a paint bucket full of lead stick on wheel weights. I know that it almost pure lead which will be perfect for the buckshot I want to cast with it.

    I have seen lots of videos on how to melt down clip on wheel weights; however, I couldn’t find any on stick on wheel weights.

    Do I need to try to remove the stick on parts or can I simply skim it off the top after the lead is melted.

    Note: sorry if this answer is on the forum somewhere. My Google Fu is weak today and I could not locate it.
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  2. #2
    Boolit Buddy

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    I would just smelt them down. Toss in some candle wax and stir it good then skim off the doss.
    But I would only do this outside in a good ventilated area. I live on a hill top so I can always count on a breeze in my driveway for this type of smelting

  3. #3
    Boolit Master 44magLeo's Avatar
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    I agree with Kylongrifle32. If you have a large outdoor melting set up then just melt them. I have access to saw dust and pine needles. I would flux with one of these a time or two then use beeswax then pour into ingots.
    If you don't have such a set up and will be meltig them in your casting pot then use just the beeswax. This leaves the pot cleaner sawdust. The left over crud for the sawdust can cause problems in your casting pot.
    Leo

  4. #4
    Boolit Grand Master

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    I've melted a lot of stick-on weights. I just load the pot and fire it up. When the smoke starts rolling I'll light it. The sticky stuff burns off and leaves a small amount of ash behind to be skimmed off. Its not a lot worse than a bunch of greasy clip-on weights or a batch that are painted or coated.

  5. #5
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    I do it outside, late at night when everyone has their heater or AC going, there is a breeze, and there's not any open windows.

    Trying to get the tape off them first is an exercise in frustration.
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  6. #6
    Boolit Buddy
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    Just melt them down, adhesive and all. Also the stick on weights I've tested seem to fall between pure and wheel weight lead in hardness, about BHN 7-8.

  7. #7
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    As everyone says, just melt them down. Impurities will burn off or be removed with flux.

    I’ve never cast shot before, but don’t you want shot to be very hard? Isn’t that why normally shot has a lot of arsenic in it. Maybe it’s only necessary for smaller size shot and not buckshot. As I said before, I’m not an expert on shot, but maybe you would want to try and harden your lead up some.

  8. #8
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    Re-melt away. All the garbage and glue will burn off.....but with voluminous clouds of extremely noxious smoke and horrible stink. That is why you do it at NIGHT! SOWW's have a lot of hydrocarbon garbage stuck to them and it all has to burn off into your neighborhood environment!

    Re-melt with some more cedar flakes to help minimize the smell and flux at the same time.

    Finish off (the 3rd time fluxing) with a flux of pine sawdust and beeswax after all the garbage is skimmed off.

    You will end up with a Pb alloy somewhere around 7-8 hardness.

    Gee.................isn't getting "FREE" Pb just a barrel of laughs??????????????????

    banger

  9. #9
    Boolit Mold TexPatriot's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GregLaROCHE View Post
    As everyone says, just melt them down. Impurities will burn off or be removed with flux.

    I’ve never cast shot before, but don’t you want shot to be very hard? Isn’t that why normally shot has a lot of arsenic in it. Maybe it’s only necessary for smaller size shot and not buckshot. As I said before, I’m not an expert on shot, but maybe you would want to try and harden your lead up some.
    I have read a lot of different opinions on how hard buckshot should be. I am going to start on the soft side of things and save my stash of harder stuff for boolits.

    Definitely going to do this outside. Using a deep cast iron pan with ingots in muffin tins.
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  10. #10
    Boolit Mold TexPatriot's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bangerjim View Post
    Re-melt away. All the garbage and glue will burn off.....but with voluminous clouds of extremely noxious smoke and horrible stink. That is why you do it at NIGHT! SOWW's have a lot of hydrocarbon garbage stuck to them and it all has to burn off into your neighborhood environment!

    Re-melt with some more cedar flakes to help minimize the smell and flux at the same time.

    Finish off (the 3rd time fluxing) with a flux of pine sawdust and beeswax after all the garbage is skimmed off.

    You will end up with a Pb alloy somewhere around 7-8 hardness.

    Gee.................isn't getting "FREE" Pb just a barrel of laughs??????????????????

    banger
    Yep. I am starting to cast because I want to learn to be more self sufficient. Reloading pistol and rifle ammo went well. Now, I am learning to cast boolits, slugs, and buckshot.

    I went to Cabelas today. They were completely out of pistol rounds and most of the shotgun shells were waterfowl loads.

    Mind you - we are in Dove season!! Who wants to shoot doves with a 3 in HyperSteel 3000 shell?
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  11. #11
    Boolit Master brewer12345's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TexPatriot View Post
    I have read a lot of different opinions on how hard buckshot should be. I am going to start on the soft side of things and save my stash of harder stuff for boolits.

    Definitely going to do this outside. Using a deep cast iron pan with ingots in muffin tins.

    You can certainly cast shot/buck out of soft stuff, but the trouble with soft shot is that the balls knock into each other as they go down the barrel and fly toward the target. Every collision deforms the balls when made out of soft alloy and tends to result in kind of erratic patterns. Harder shot tends to resist deforming upon collision with other bits of shot and gives better patterns. So traditionally you would want like 5% antimony, which is pretty hard stuff.

    Better idea for your SOWW: Get a muzzleloader with a slow twist for round ball and cast yourself some round balls out of your nice soft alloy. Talk about self sufficient...
    When you care enough to send the very best, send an ounce of lead.

  12. #12
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    lot easier and cleaner to smelt without the adhesive. I just dumped a bunch of leftover stuff like mineral spirits, thinners, etc into a buck with lid. Dump in stick ons and let sit a few days. Comes out nice and clean. Good luck.
    Ron

  13. #13
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    Years ago when I had a large quantity of SOWW to melt, I also had a large quantity of orangey(?) smelling degreaser that the company I worked for was letting employees have if they brought their container. I soaked the adhesive off the WW and then melted them for ingots. A dirty messy job.

    I expect that just throwing everything in the pot would be easier, just much smokier.
    John
    W.TN

  14. #14
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    What about using zinc for shot? Lighter than lead, harder and heavier than steel, I think.

    I just checked. Zinc is lighter than steel. Scratch that idea.
    Last edited by GregLaROCHE; 09-28-2020 at 01:45 PM. Reason: Additional information found.

  15. #15
    Boolit Buddy BUFFALOW RED's Avatar
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    I got a can full of stick on we and almost all are zink.
    What do we do with zink
    NRA Life Member
    learn to make your own black powder collect bp arms as there presently not recorded
    smokless is a fad its fading fast, helped along by obama

  16. #16
    Boolit Buddy BUFFALOW RED's Avatar
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    I got a can full of stick on ww and almost all are zink.
    What do we do with zink
    NRA Life Member
    learn to make your own black powder collect bp arms as there presently not recorded
    smokless is a fad its fading fast, helped along by obama

  17. #17
    Boolit Buddy BUFFALOW RED's Avatar
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    I must have double tap post butten
    NRA Life Member
    learn to make your own black powder collect bp arms as there presently not recorded
    smokless is a fad its fading fast, helped along by obama

  18. #18
    Boolit Master pjames32's Avatar
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    Zinc and steel go in the scrap bucket. I run a magnet over the pile first, then sort out the zinc with a side cutter. The lead are pretty easy to pick out. I do not clean them first. They are smoky!
    NRA Benefactor Member

  19. #19
    Boolit Grand Master fredj338's Avatar
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    The adhesive is a nasty mess. I have about 200# sitting there as back up for the apocalypse. You can soak them 15min in gasoline, paint thinner or mineral spirits & the sticky tape wipes right off. Just make sure everything is dry before adding to the pot.
    EVERY GOOD SHOOTER NEEDS TO BE A HANDLOADER.
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  20. #20
    Boolit Mold TexPatriot's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fredj338 View Post
    The adhesive is a nasty mess. I have about 200# sitting there as back up for the apocalypse. You can soak them 15min in gasoline, paint thinner or mineral spirits & the sticky tape wipes right off. Just make sure everything is dry before adding to the pot.
    I used mineral spirits and it came off nice.

    How do you dry it off in a situation like this? My plan was to simply let it air dry over a few weeks. My other idea was to put them in a cast iron skillet and hit them with the heat gun for a few minutes.
    Love somebody today

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check