Getting started with reloading for my S&W Model 10-5?

[Wayne Smith]

Looks like you are set up to go - but get the manual first and read the first part about the reloading process and understand that. I don't know if Lee has changed their scale but the original scale was very limited and extremely sensitive - more than was necessary. RCBS 505 or similar - if available - is probably a better choice.

I loaded for years with everything in a salesman's case except components. I kept a couple C clamps, a small piece of pine, and grabbed a towel when I needed to reload. Towel on the dining room table, press on that, board under the table, and clamp the whole sandwich together and had a very stable loading platform. Load what was needed and pack the whole thing up and nobody could see that I had done it. I would add a pistol powder measure to your shopping list. Measuring every charge isn't necessary - especially for a revolver. Having a scale to set your measure is essential. I used a scale simply to confirm that my powder measure - dip, pistol powder measure, or RCBS measure - was accurate. I wanted to confirm and a reliable scale is the only way to do that.

Lee dies come with a shell holder, the only ones that do. Every other brand requires you to buy a shell holder separately. For years I cleaned primer pockets with an appropriately sized screw driver.

Think about why you want a portable setup. A press is the basis of the reloading set and is used to load and nothing more. To take it out to the range or camping is a romantic idea, but it's much easier to load your ammo at home and only bring the ammo! A solid press mounted to a bench or table is much easier and faster to use.

[Ozark mike]

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...d-Cast-Bullets

Ya might look at this press that they are talking about its 25 bucks. That hand press is awsome for when ya aint got something solid to mount a press to but it will never be what a bolted down press will be

[farmbif]

ive found the hand press to be a balancing act sometimes putting in powder and seating bullet. and the lee loader that uses a soft faced hammer is good if you only need to load limited ammo but to readily produce enough for meaningful range sessions a real loading press is the best way to go in my opinion. it has its uses but for someone just starting working on a table top with a real press won't get you discouraged and you will be able to produce ammo at a speed that won't be frustrating. out that 1/2 price press lee has right now will work for 38 spl. and is a great entry point to the hobby. there are a whole bunch of ways to go to start reloading but the one thing I think is most important is those chapters in a reloading book such as the Lyman or Hornady that explains how and why to do it properly and how to properly set up your dies.

[Bazoo]

I've never used any of the bullets you showed. I wouldn't be afraid to use them though if I had some. Never used bullets with that coating.

I'd drop the manual you had listed and get a copy of the Lyman 49 or 50 instead if you prefer a hard copy as to the PDF.

I'd drop the hand primer and associated shell holder too. The hand press has a ram prime with it. Personally I don't like the hand primers. They end up causing hand fatigue and aren't that much quicker.

I would get the primer pocket cleaning tool though because if you reload the same cases 6-7 times they will need cleaning.

I wouldn't be afraid of those calipers. I use a set of Chinese made RCBS calipers and am happy with them.

As for trimmers and tumblers and everything else you can get, they all have their place and use, but are not required to load 38 special. A year from now maybe you'll want to add various things, but for now the goal is to get you making cartridges without over complicating the process.

I don't have the third hand issue with the hand press. If you think you'd rather work with a bench mounted press, go for it. Get the lee ram prime to go with it.

[VariableRecall]

Here is my updated Cart for Midway USA:

Lee Breech Lock Hand Press Kit

Lee Primer Pocket Cleaner

National Metallic Digital Caliper 6" Stainless Steel

Lee Deluxe Carbide 4-Die Set 38 Special, 357 Magnum

Lee Safety Balance Beam Mechanical Powder Scale 100 Grain Capacity


Lyman Pocket Touch 1500 Digital Powder Scale Kit 1500 Grain Capacity (New Item, to double check with the scale)

Lee Spline Drive Breech Lock Quick Change Bushing Package of 3 (To quickly change loading dies )

Frankford Arsenal Powder Trickler (New Item, to precisely deliver powder)

Stuff on Backorder:
None, The ring should be provided in the carbide set, and I'm arranging with a user to get some brass shipped to me.

I'd also prefer a reloading manual, if possible, in PDF form, since with character recognition I can easily search for stuff I need in there.
Should a case trimmer be necessary on a straight walled case like .38 special?

[Kosh75287]

If you get a powder measure (the thing that throws the same powder charge repeatedly, not the scale), get ANYTHING but LEE! I've ended up with 3 of them, and they were all miserable about consistency and "leaking" powder.
You can use your hand or bench press to prime cases, but I think you'll get tired of that, pretty rapidly. You should consider getting a hand-primer THAT USES THE SHELL HOLDER THAT GOES WITH YOUR DIES. I don't remember who, but there's some firm out there who sells an inexpensive hand-primer which requires the added expense of a set of "special shell holders" JUST for that mechanism. Not usable for ANY other reloading operation, and a P.I.T.A. to keep up with. Not worth the money saved. Pay a little extra & get the one that uses the shell holders that you must have, anyway.

At first, you WILL make mistakes. Don't worry about it. But DO get a kinetic bullet puller (known as a "WOOPS-hammer" in my circles) when you can. MOST of the goofs you make can be undone with one of these. The others will be few & far enough between that you can afford to discard a .38 case or two.

You don't really need a case-trimmer for straight-walled revolver cases. Trimming becomes a consideration mostly with bottle-necked rifle (and some pistol) rounds. I'm sure that some very high-level competition shooters may trim their .38 brass, but for the level of precision you seek, it's not a necessity. The only exception I can think of is if you inherit a bunch of .357 magnum brass & wish to trim them to .38 Spl. length. Even then, it might be easier to work a swap with a .357 owner.

[RKJ]

How much more brass do you need? I’ve got some PC’d bullets I could send and I can send a copy of Handloader’s article on the 38 Special they did some time ago. It’s got load data also. I don’t know if it’s still available but take a look at the PIF sub forum, not too long ago a user had Hornady’s 3rd edition to PIF. It’s old data but if you stay mid range it would serve you well.

[VariableRecall]

If you get a powder measure (the thing that throws the same powder charge repeatedly, not the scale), get ANYTHING but LEE! I've ended up with 3 of them, and they were all miserable about consistency and "leaking" powder.
You can use your hand or bench press to prime cases, but I think you'll get tired of that, pretty rapidly. You should consider getting a hand-primer THAT USES THE SHELL HOLDER THAT GOES WITH YOUR DIES. I don't remember who, but there's some firm out there who sells an inexpensive hand-primer which requires the added expense of a set of "special shell holders" JUST for that mechanism. Not usable for ANY other reloading operation, and a P.I.T.A. to keep up with. Not worth the money saved. Pay a little extra & get the one that uses the shell holders that you must have, anyway.
.

So you're saying to put the Lee Ergonomic Primer Press back into the cart, then? The good thing is that I believe I could use the shell holder in my carbide die set for the ergonomic press. I've found a Kinetic Bullet Puller and put that in my cart as well.

[Wayne Smith]

I have been reloading since I was 16 years old (now 67) and have never used a powder trickler. First they are needed for large stick powders that do not flow through a powder measure easily, not for pistol powders. Second, I have loaded very many rifle loads with long stick powders and always used my fingers to add a few grains of powder to the scale pan. I've never had a missfire. I consider them completely unnecessary.

The pistol powders you will be loading all flow through a powder measure well except Unique. Be careful with Unique because it has a tendency to bridge in powder measures.

I will admit that I am handy and tend to fix things, but most of my reloading gear has been purchased used. Of course I was an experienced reloader when I bought that stuff. I started with a Lee Loader - the one you pound to load. I then bought an RCBS Jr3 and used it for years, along with an RCBS powder measure, scale and their mount to mount the powder measure to the press. This is the outfit that I used for years clamping it to the dining room table.

[JimB..]

I agree with Wayne Smith, you can “trickle” with your fingers if the budget is tight and you don’t need to do it at all for pistol.

The bigger issue is how do you want to measure powder. For most powders appropriate for 38spcl a scoop is adequate. Play with it and your powder, dumping it on the scale and keep repeating until you’re comfortable with the consistency. You can certainly weigh each charge, but you don’t want to trickle a full charge because it’ll take forever. Most folks use a powder measure, you set it up once and then every time you activate it, it drops the same amount of powder.

The powder measure is convenient, but more cost and more space, I’d encourage you to get the Lee scoops and work with them. I suggested the powder trickler thinking that you wanted to weigh each charge, but you’re better off avoiding that, so drop it and add the scoops.

[Ozark mike]

I recommend getting the bare essentials for getting started untill you decide wether ya like it or not i imagine not everyone keeps with it and buying new tools if you try to sell em you will take a loss just something to think about you can always buy more stuff later like powder throwers and special tools. Wouldn't want to see ya learn how to swim on the deep side

[VariableRecall]

I agree with Wayne Smith, you can “trickle” with your fingers if the budget is tight and you don’t need to do it at all for pistol.
I’d encourage you to get the Lee scoops and work with them. I suggested the powder trickler thinking that you wanted to weigh each charge, but you’re better off avoiding that, so drop it and add the scoops.

To be honest I'd prefer to keep my bare hands away from as much powder as possible to avoid residue buildup on my hands. I'd rather not trickle.

Considering that a powder trickler acts as both a precise way to add powder AND keeps my hands away from direct contact makes it worth putting in my budget.
I'm forgoing the powder measure because of space reasons, and the fact that these loads are so small (generally around 3 to 5 grains) A scoop would be all I need for coarse powder measuring, and a trickler for fine powder measuring. I feel that I can make a good rhythm of dumping a scoop, then trickling to the exact amount I need.

Also, I've been looking through that Lyman's 48th manual, and online and it seems to me that Winchester 231 Smokeless Powder seems to be the most popular and recommended for .38 Special and other handgun ammunition. Anyone else have opinions on that?

One more thing of note:
My current cart is 222.60 before taxes.
I am saving 127.31 in total with the Birthday discount compared to the listed MSRP for the items.
That's 57% off my order! Neato!

[gwpercle]

Get the Lee Hand Press KIT ...it has some extra's you will need like a press primer seating tool, powder funnel , case lube ... included

Get a set of Lee Dies , 4 die set , they come with a shell holder and powder scoop .
I still use scoops often to measure powder, simple , safe and accurate way to dispense powder and you don't have to touch the powder .

Get a Lee Universal Case Expanding Die if you plan to load lead bullets , cast lead or coated lead ... you will need to expnd the case mouth to insert the softer larger lead bullets ... Trust me these are handy to have .

Gary

[VariableRecall]

Get the Lee Hand Press KIT ...it has some extra's you will need (eliminates all that pesky hammering)
Gary

Here's the Lee hand press Kit that I have in my cart right now. this looks like the one you're talking about.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1013017131?pid=650614

[farmbif]

wow was just on lee precision site, they have real single stage press on scratch and dent price of only $40, includes priming set up from what I read of it.
that's a sweet deal considering the shortages currently on many retailers sites

[VariableRecall]

wow was just on lee precision site, they have real single stage press on scratch and dent price of only $40, includes priming set up from what I read of it.
that's a sweet deal considering the shortages currently on many retailers sites

I was more interested in taking advantage of Midway's prices and their free shipping. I'm not sure about shipping on Lee's website.

[Bazoo]

There is no reason to be concerned about touching powder. It's not toxic. Lead is toxic, and primers have a lead compound in them, and bullets of course have lead in them. Anytime you fire a gun, the residue has lead in it. Lead is ingested or inhaled, but not absorbed through skin. You can wear nitrile gloves when reloading, or you can just wash your hands after you handle your reloading stuff, ammo, and guns, but it's not the powder you need to be concerned about.

W231 is a good powder for 38 special, and a good powder for any standard pistol cartridge in general. It's not a fickle powder, and offers you ease of metering.

[VariableRecall]

W231 is a good powder for 38 special, and a good powder for any standard pistol cartridge in general. It's not a fickle powder, and offers you ease of metering.

Great to know! I just want to make sure that I get a minimum amount of residue on things as I work.

Also, what strategies should I use to clean my brass cases? I don't want a tumbler and I'm not worried about the cartridges looking pretty, I just want to make sure that they aren't going to be a problem during cartridge assembly. I'm thinking of getting a sacrificial colander and some dish soap for this one.

[Bazoo]

You don't have to clean your cases. Just wipe the dirt off with a rag. You can use citric acid to clean okay without tumbling, so I'm told; I've not done it yet. I have a tumbler, but I have plenty of times in the past and continue to load cases that aren't shiny. You can use a little steel wool or scotchbrite to clean a spot if it offends.

If I get a little verdigris or dull spot in the extractor groove (from brass that's set outside) I remove it with my bronze toothbrush.

[Ozark mike]

Or ya can just throw em in a old laundry bag then throw em in the washer.