43 Mauser kicking my butt

[ascast]

You won't be sorry in the long run. If by any chance one splits don firing, maybe you stop and re-examine. I once ruin a box of 577/450. It was lathe turned and I did not notice the splits until the box was about shot up. It should not be a problem for you, but look over the first couple fired cases well in detail. You were not specific in your bullet description, just an old Lyman. They made several. My point is, cast in pure lead they will be smaller in diameter, about 0.001". That may help you. I suggest you go slow when loading/seating. Sounds like you have a minimum size chamber. Maybe a little flare to seat bullet, then a little full sizing to take out the flare so they chamber. keep us posted and good luck

[Flophound]

I had a similar issue with a sporter k.71. light primer strikes were all I was gettting. Maybe your firing pin spring is worn?

[Flophound]

Also, if you're sold on shooting the original cartridge, I feel you. But if you just want to shoot it, irrespective of what it shoots, get a shoot me a message and I can tell you about à chamber insert I developed.

[sharps4590]

Flop, was your comment directed to me and the 9 X 57R drilling? If so, no sir, it isn't a firing pin spring problem as it's a hammer drilling and the hammer spring is definitely not weak. I haven't looked into it as with the properly headspaced brass it's dependable. Could be as simple as crud in the firing pin channels. Thanks for your thought.

[oconeedan]

Thank you all. Will watch new fired brass carefully. And ascast, I think you are correct, a minimal chamber. I may try pure lead. Mould is a Lyman 446110.
Flop, the firing pin looks perfect, and I think the spring is fine. I think the cartridge is moving as the firing pin strikes, causing light strikes.
And after spending this much money on mould, brass, dies, I would hate to change direction. Maybe I am stubborn.

[skeettx]

Place a SMALL piece of Scotch Tape on the shoulder to hold the case back
until it fireforms

Mike

[oconeedan]

The new Buffalo Arms brass looks great!
When I set the case on a flat surface, and measure from the flat surface to the top of the rim, the Buffalo Arms brass has about .030" more rim thickness than the brass I made using 45-90. I think they used a press to bend the rim up, then machined it flat, which added to the rim thickness.
This .030 would explain the problems I have had.
Eager to try them. Time is not on my side, hunting season is almost here and I am prepping for that on weekends, and fighting poverty during the week. IHMSA match this weekend.
I need to retire.

[Gobeyond]

@oconeedan I use 45-90 brass in my Mauser 1871. I was getting light strikes too. I figured my firing pin was too short- rounded. These guns do have short fp often. I turned my fp pin nut out one turn, that didn’t work. What I ended up doing was set my primer out a little and finish seating with bolt upon closing. Then it is in the general area. Short stroke to firing and they go off every time. Gunsmiths won’t work on them. Just take a little welding bead and file.

[hpbear101]

I was having problems with light primer strikes. Tried a bunch of things that didn't really work then read a thread somewhere where this is a very common issue on 71s and the solution was large pistol primers. I have lots of large pistol magnum primers, gave that a try and no more problems fire every time now.

I have gone from shooting a heeled bullet to paper patch bullets. I had read where the barrel on the 71's is a copy of the Chassepot barrel. I shoot a Chassepot so I sized the Chassepot bullet to .444 to get rid of the the base band, then 2 wraps of 55W paper puts me at .449 at the base. These shoot well but I am having an issue with leading so still have some work to do with wad and lube cookie before I am really satisfied.



I have quite a bit of BP on hand but Hodgdon 777 2fg is readily available in my area so I have been using that, and saving the BP for front stuffers.