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Thread: Zinc Wheelweights

  1. #161
    Boolit Buddy
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    All the brand new cars come with lead-free weights... new environmental laws from what I've read. They don't even have lead in engine bearings anymore. They're aluminum instead. They're even eliminating it from car batteries... the new top shelf Porsches have lead free batteries ($3000 each!). It'll be 10 years before they come down in price to be used in cheap cars though.

    There's no shortage of lead wheel weights still being installed though. I remove about four or five 5-gallon buckets of them from cars each year, and every car with steel wheels or cruddy aluminum wheels gets lead clip on weights to balance the new tires. They're still the cheapest, and fastest way to balance a wheel.

    If anything is hurting the amount of used clip-on weights a bit it's the proliferation of aluminum wheels on new cars. Most of them don't have a place to use anything but a sticky weight, and even those that do we have to use sticky weights to prevent scratching the paint (or the poor quality aluminum wheels will corrode to the point they won't hold air in 4 years).

    This thread makes me feel lucky I own a garage (for once).
    Last edited by destrux; 11-03-2012 at 11:29 PM.

  2. #162
    Boolit Buddy
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    well if you got zinc send it to me for lead

  3. #163
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    Good information, thanks for sharing.

  4. #164
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    I am new to this thread also. I first encountered Zinc in wheel weights and did not know what it was. a sample dissolved in some Hydrocloric acid and then I knew what I had. Unfortunately, it was alread melted into the mix. About the only thing I could say, is that as the metal is poured, the zinc will float, and as the last metal is poured, the lighter zinc will be in greated proportion in the last bullets, than the first ones. I have already encounterd all zinc bullets on the rannge backstop (outdoors) I believe all zinc bullets would be too hard for an indoor range (50 foot) and would bounce back to the firing line.

  5. #165
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    If the range is properly designed, you shouldn't get a ricochet back. Of course, the guy that took his muffs off with the 50 cal. obviously didn't have a properly designed range.
    Every so often, my bottom feeder smelter decides it wants to clog up for a few minutes, now I'm wondering if I have run a zinc weight through. I am usually pretty cautious with them and always fish them out quickly, but maybe I had one get by me.
    On the battery comment, I have thought about trying to reclaim one, to see how hard it is to process. You should be able to neutralize the sulphuric acid with some soda bicarb. After that it's pretty inert. Cut the case open and viola!! Glorious lead. Just don't get anything on you. They used to routinely rebuild batteries years ago. I think some forklift batteries are still rebuilt.
    I saw an article about most recycled batteries were shipped to a company in Michigan. They are crushed, the acid is collected and filtered to be recycled, the case is recycled and the lead is melted down and recycled.

  6. #166
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    Quote Originally Posted by Infidel View Post
    On the battery comment, I have thought about trying to reclaim one, to see how hard it is to process. You should be able to neutralize the sulphuric acid with some soda bicarb. After that it's pretty inert. Cut the case open and viola!! Glorious lead. Just don't get anything on you. They used to routinely rebuild batteries years ago. I think some forklift batteries are still rebuilt.
    I saw an article about most recycled batteries were shipped to a company in Michigan. They are crushed, the acid is collected and filtered to be recycled, the case is recycled and the lead is melted down and recycled.
    You might want to read this sticky posted in the Lead and lead alloy's subforum before you start cutting into car batteries. It really is something not to be messed with.

    Why Car Batteries Are Dangerous


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  7. #167
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    Here is an article from another forum by someone who knows more about this...
    http://www.shootersforum.com/bullet-...positions.html

    One point he brings up is that zinc would not last as a wheel weight.

  8. #168
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    It shmears down yer bore from stem to stern.

  9. #169
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    I have been sorting the WWs that I have collected in the last 6 months. It appears that the zinc WWs are starting to decline. More and more steel WWs are replacing them. That makes some since as steel is probably the cheapest metal to make them out of.


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  10. #170
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    Quote Originally Posted by SciFiJim View Post
    I have been sorting the WWs that I have collected in the last 6 months. It appears that the zinc WWs are starting to decline. More and more steel WWs are replacing them. That makes some since as steel is probably the cheapest metal to make them out of.
    I've found that same thing, too.

  11. #171
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    only sure way to tell them apart is a scuff test. rub them on concrete and lead will show you the individual sand scratches. im just glad i work at a scrap yard and have a cheap sorce

  12. #172
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    Great stuff here by all, especially the battery bit! I've been a lurker for some time now, but decided to get with it and join. Most of my stash comes from hard work at the gravel pit (and the like) ranges with a 1/4" screen--luv those 68 caliber BP guys.

  13. #173
    Boolit Mold What The Chuck's Avatar
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    I got some WW's labeled TT, AL-MC, FN, and MC. Are these maunfacturers marks or is this something I should be concerned with?

  14. #174
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    Quote Originally Posted by What The Chuck View Post
    I got some WW's labeled TT, AL-MC, FN, and MC. Are these maunfacturers marks or is this something I should be concerned with?
    More than likely manufacturer's markings. Take a pair of side cutters and try to cut them. If they cut relatively easily, they are lead. If you can hardly make a dent, then they are something else (steel or zinc) and put it aside.

  15. #175
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    yes i agree with inspector H. callahan ...the letters mean different wheel types , the only letters to worry about is Fe and Zn or if the name ends with a z for instance reg , or regz ... the regz is zinc.
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  16. #176
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    I haven't seen the regz on any, but there are some zinc and iron that aren't marked as such. I have noticed a lot less zinc, and a whole lot more iron. It's the new normal, no matter where ya live.
    I don't bother reading them, I just try to cut, and sort into 4 buckets. COWW, SOWW, Zinc, and iron. You'll be surprised how much iron you'll have to sell in just a bucket full, especially when ya add the cleaned clips. Even at it's low price, it will pay for your gas.
    So far I've just saved the zinc. It will be traded for lead.

  17. #177
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    Quote Originally Posted by mold maker View Post
    I haven't seen the regz on any, but there are some zinc and iron that aren't marked as such. I have noticed a lot less zinc, and a whole lot more iron. It's the new normal, no matter where ya live.
    I don't bother reading them, I just try to cut, and sort into 4 buckets. COWW, SOWW, Zinc, and iron. You'll be surprised how much iron you'll have to sell in just a bucket full, especially when ya add the cleaned clips. Even at it's low price, it will pay for your gas.
    So far I've just saved the zinc. It will be traded for lead.
    So, how much are you getting for the steel at the recyclers?


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  18. #178
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    The melting point for zinc is about 100 degrees higher than for lead, so i always scoop out the junk as soon as the lead reaches its melting point and figured that that kept the material zinc free. Is that not correct?
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  19. #179
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    The price of iron and steel varies like the rest, but a bucket full is less of a problem to haul, than bed frames and other junk. I wait till the price is up, or I have a trailer load of stuff to recycle. Like I said it is easy to haul, and pays for the fuel.
    As I get older, I look for a better profit, and less labor.

  20. #180
    Boolit Master Swamp Man's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mold maker View Post
    The price of iron and steel varies like the rest, but a bucket full is less of a problem to haul, than bed frames and other junk. I wait till the price is up, or I have a trailer load of stuff to recycle. Like I said it is easy to haul, and pays for the fuel.
    As I get older, I look for a better profit, and less labor.
    I have 3 washers and 2 dryers 3 mowers and a truck load of galvanized pipe. The recycler is about 20 miles from me would you think it's worth my time and gas to haul it all over there? Or would I be better off giving it to the junk man that picks up junk and hauls it away for free?

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check