Good morning
How long is the case after triming ?
Good morning
How long is the case after triming ?
"Behold The Lamb of God that taketh away the sin of the world". John 1:29
Male Guanaco out in dry lakebed at 10,800 feet south of Arequipa.
Missionary- I haven't settled on an exact case length, but I will probably go with 1.8 inch.
Macgyver- I had looked at a .510 wsm, the only reason I didn't do it was I was building on a long action so i figured why not get a bit more case. How is the seater die that Lee made for you put together? Is it a standard 7/8th thread or one of the larger diameter dies?
Swamp- Thanks for the offer on boolits, once I get this thing put together I will certainly take you up on it.
Last edited by TOWS220; 07-14-2020 at 07:48 PM.
Love them! They just look mean.
Ron Reed
Oklahoma City, OK
MOA - that is from a mold I made 2 or 3 years ago from a block of aluminum. I made it a single cavity, because I would not be shooting a lot of these bullets, and because I didn't think I could get a 100% identical match to the first.
I use babbitt for my Boolits because of the extra weight and hardness.
I got lucky on this one, because the accuracy from a Ruger #1 with a 32" barrel is quite phenomenal!
Love those "pointy" bullets of yours. They look great!
I have a 50 razorback that I still need to buy dies for. It's bee. Sitting in my safe for about 6 years unfired. I watched my buddy JT kill two doe antelope with it when it was still his. I need to get it up and running again.
Doug
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Sticks and stones may break my bones but hollow points expand on impact.
Taxidermists are cheaper than surgeons....keep shooting
ΜOΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ
Some people measure success in Minutes of Angle
You could just build a 700 HBH and have the biggest whisper on the block
Question for you guys.
What are you using for a bullet seating die for your 50 alaskans and such? Does it work with both cast lead and jacketed?
It seems like I will have to have something custom made and it will have to have a few plugs for the different shapes of bullet.
Other updates, magnum bolthead for my savage is here and I think after cutting the inner ribs out I can fit and feed these from a magpul magnum long action magazine.
Still pondering final dimensions for my reamer. Do you guys see any problems with the chamber being a straight cylinder vs having taper that is present in some "straight" wall catridges?
I use an RCBS die. I've moved to the hot glue method for just about everything if the current seat plug does not fit. I used to make my own to fit all sorts of bullets, but the hot glue method is so much easier (easier than a CNC machine) I've just moved to it.
Ron Reed
Oklahoma City, OK
I use a Hornady New Dimension bullet seating die for my 50 Alaskan, and just change out the bullet seater as needed.
Cast or jacketed makes no difference!
If your chamber is cut to minimum specs, you will have less issues with a straight walled cartridge, especially if you are a little heavy handed at the powder scale.
Colchester, that looks great! I love that you are able to get a shoulder in there. What are you using for a seating die?
I had a thought about your reloading dies. What about using 50-70 dies?
The 50-70 is .565" at the base, which is .020" larger than your 7mm Blaser mag so you wouldn't get any sizing done at the base, but...
Edit: my Lyman 50-70 sizeing die measures .556" at the base.
The 50-70 is .535" at the mouth which should be about right for a .510" bullet and the slightly thicker brass at the shoulder area.
The 50-70 is 1.75" long, so you'd be able to adjust it out for a crimp.
RCBS 50-70 dies are availible at Midway for $53.
Or maybe use 50 Alaskan dies
50 Ak is .554" at the base and .535" at the mouth, but is 2.1" long, so you could cut them down abit and get a slightly smaller base.
Hornady 50 AK dies are available at Midway for $90
Either way, it's much cheaper than a custom set of dies.
Last edited by lar45; 08-02-2020 at 10:04 AM.
As far as straight vs taper for your reamer.
You might cut a case off, expand and seat a bullet, then measure the mouth, add .002" ish for neck release.
Then use that and your cases base measurement for a straight taper so you won't have to do any neck reaming or turning, just cut the cases off, trim to length and go.
Since I can't post in the Swappin and Sellin section yet, does anyone out there have a .50-90/.50-70 lyman "M" expander die?
I think I can get one of these to work well for my initial expanding step for case forming.
NOE has some 510 expanders in there pistol section.
https://noebulletmolds.com/site/shop...509-p-exp-plug
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |