Time for a reline?

[pietro]

I noticed that all of the holes were crisp on one side and a bit elongated on the other.

Attachment 263469

Another reason for boolits keyholing would be muzzle/rifling issues.

I would first re-crown the muzzle & test fire.

If that doesn't do the trick, the barrel (and it's original markings) can be saved via making a recessed rifling crown in a counterbore drilled an inch or so down the barrel to remove the damaged rifling.


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[john.k]

Trouble is collectors are nowdays just as horrified by a small counterbore ,as by a reline......a good reline,and it will take a magnifying glass to see the join at the muzzle.

[seetrout]

I don't get the value placed on the original bore in a rifle like this. It is a very nice example to be sure, except for the bore. It is not a 1, 2, 3, 4 or even a 5 digit serial number. It is not an evolutionary model like the 1908 predecessor to the 1911 I once saw in a display case before it went to auction. It is not a prototype that lost out like the .277 Pederson I saw in the display case next to the 1908 pistol. It's a working rifle, serial number approaching a half million, out of over a million produced. Placing it around 1908? While 25-20 is the rarest caliber (218's are actually relabeled model 53's?) I still have a hard time relinquishing it to wallhanger status. Looking at gunbroker I see a bunch of 92's in 25-20 with high prices...and no bids. Looks like they sell for about $1k or less.

[uscra112]

Just musing upon my own reaction to seeing rifle models I collect that aren't totally original. I shun refinished metal like the plague. Especially overdone color case hardening and highly polished blueing of receivers that were never blued in the first place. Close second are guns whose wood has been polyurethaned. (It happens) I'm actually attracted by wood that has been cleaned and tastefully re-oiled, and by well-done liner jobs where the original caliber is preserved. so there's no new stamping on the barrel. Best of all possible worlds; a gun that looks used but well cared for, and shoots like new.

[Rrusse111]

Gents, I know Redman and John Taylor do great relining, unfortunately both are swamped with work. Redman's liners are only recommended for pistol calibers, whereas TJ liners are hammer forged chromalloy, and he offers them in a variety of twists for rifles. I have a 25-36 and 38-55 TD barrels that are in need of refurbishment. Any recommendations for either liner type or someone experienced and capable of doing the work?
Cheers!

[rbuck351]

I have a 1921 made 92 in 25/20 that has been beat to death on the outside but tight action. The barrel although is not a sewer pipe is certainly not pristine. I use the Lyman 65gr boolit cast from wcww, with check and lubed weighs 73grs. My best load is with 9.5grs of 2400 and spp for 1930 fps and 1.5" at 85yds. The spp makes quite a bit of difference in that little case with both accuracy and velocity.

You my not have enough speed to stabilize the 85gr. I have been working with an NOE 85gr boolit that is showing good results with 11.1gr of H116 which I believe to be the same powder (or very close) as Accurate 1680. Velocity is around 1900.
I have tried several powders mostly with the 73gr boolit and accuracy seems to be best at close to 1900fps and goes away much over that.

To me the 92 Win in 25/20 is about the ultimate walkabout rifle for small game and as ugly as mine is, we will depart company when I depart life. That being said, collector value meaning little to me, I would reline it. The only exception to that would be if I could sell your rifle for enough to buy a noncollectable grade with a very good bore or have it relined and have money left over. I get guns to shoot not as wallhangers. When they are too pretty to carry in the field they become useless to me.
With yours I would try a lot of different loads to see if I could get it to shoot good enough. If not, then reline.