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Thread: Looking for black powder low pressure load data for my 10 gauge

  1. #21
    Boolit Master
    elk hunter's Avatar
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    Look at the Parker collectors site under reloading for low pressure 10 gauge loads by Pete Lester; http://parkerguns.org/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=21
    BIG OR SMALL I LIKE THEM ALL, 577 TO 22 HORNET.

  2. #22
    In Remembrance Reverend Al's Avatar
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    You have to register as a member of the Parker collectors site to be able to download the pdf file ... bit of a pain since I doubt I'd ever go back to the site again. Has anyone downloaded his pdf that could post it here instead?
    I may have passed my "Best Before" date, but I haven't reached my "Expiry" date!

  3. #23
    Boolit Master
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    I bookmarked it for later , thanks

  4. #24
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by 6pt-sika View Post
    You got your opinion and I have mine . BP for me is only useful in a couple original ML’s . I am most certainly not using it in several thousand dollar closed action double barrels . Say what you want but the residue will get into the action . I’m not taking a hammerless D grade apart just to shoot that mess . There are just way to many NEGATIVES in my opinion for that junk .
    How???
    If the cartridge packs tight and the primer does'nt pierce then how will the holy black sneak it's way into the action? Please enlighten us dumb folks!
    I have shot literally more than 500lbs of black and have never ever encountered it in the action of a firearm. Am i doing something wrong?

  5. #25
    Boolit Master
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    Some people just have a fear of the unknown and it is feed by people at the range and elsewhere who don't have experience with black powder. It's actually very easy to clean up especially in a break open breech loader. It won't fill the action I have been shooting it in shotguns like yours for decades zero problems.

  6. #26
    Boolit Grand Master Tripplebeards's Avatar
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    I just got news that I will finally be getting my gun back. My Smith is bringing it with when he comes down for muzzleloading the week after thanksgiving. Cant wait to finally be able to shoot it for the first time!

  7. #27
    Boolit Master
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    Good let us know how it goes

  8. #28
    Boolit Master MOA's Avatar
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    Great news.

  9. #29
    Boolit Grand Master Tripplebeards's Avatar
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    If all goes well my SxS will be here tomorrow!

  10. #30
    Boolit Grand Master Tripplebeards's Avatar
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    Hammers on! My plan is to rub the bluing off the surface of the hammers and leave the dark bluing in the etched design so it matches the gun better. I’ll also round off the screw head so it matches the original round faced screw on the other side. My buddy who did the work waited to fire it till he came down with the gun. I got the honors of the first two rounds. I drew a couple of turkey targets and stood back 20 yards. I used RST #5’s. This was my first shot of of the gun...



    I put 22 or 23 holes of #5 in it. I order a box of 1 1/4oz RST #6’s to try.

    Here are the hammers. The post that was missing the hammer was bent a little so the hammer on that post sits higher just a hair. Close enough for me as the work was free, the gun was $45, and the hammers and screws were $63. Man is this gun a blast to shoot! We shot it a total of 7 times. I busted a flying clay pigeon my fist and only try. I only had 2 boxes of 10 RST shells on hand and wanted to save some for turkey hunting next week.





    The gun has a lot of character wear and a good amount of patina on the barrels. I polished off the the rust from the receiver back in the 90’s and polished it. It still looks pretty shiny. I also polished a spot on the barrel where there was a dent that is now 99% gone after trying to push it out. I’ll try and patina that spot with some vinegar. So should I leave the gun alone or should I clean off the barrels and retire the dark lines of the Damascus and also redo the wood? I’m sure it will never look perfect but it will look pretty nice when done. Just wondering value wise if I should just clean some of the bluing off the hammer and call it done?

    Hopefully someone can help me with determining it’s age. It’s stamped 396. From what I’ve gathered Charles Daly stated importing a 100 guns a year in 1875. So I would guess it’s an 1878 model?

    Cant wait to drill a big gobbler with it!
    Last edited by Tripplebeards; 12-08-2020 at 11:59 AM.

  11. #31
    Boolit Grand Master Tripplebeards's Avatar
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    I just polished the bluing off the hammers so it just stayed in the detailing but I don't have access to post a picture right now but they blend right in and look like they belong in the gun now

  12. #32
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    3B: I'd just leave it like it is. If you don't want to get into a complete refurbish, what you've got right now looks proper for a gun of that age.

    Sometimes it is best to leave well enough alone.

    Randy
    "It's not how well you do what you know how to do,,,It's how well you do what you DON'T know how to do!"
    www.buchananprecisionmachine.com

  13. #33
    Boolit Grand Master Tripplebeards's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by W.R.Buchanan View Post
    3B: I'd just leave it like it is. If you don't want to get into a complete refurbish, what you've got right now looks proper for a gun of that age.

    Sometimes it is best to leave well enough alone.

    Randy
    I agree Randy. It has some deep gouges in the barrel and receiver in areas along with some gouges in the wood. I believe I would loose to much material trying to make it look like new. I like the way it looks right now anyways.


    Heres one of the hammers after I buffed off the bluing. It matches my receiver now and looks aged with patina. Now the hammers and receiver color just about match just like all the rest of the old Charles Daly Damascus SxS’s I’ve seen on the net.

    Last edited by Tripplebeards; 12-08-2020 at 09:25 PM.

  14. #34
    Boolit Grand Master Tripplebeards's Avatar
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    I can tell you I could make the barrel look a lot better. I sanded the spot where there was a dent when I bought in the mix 90’s. I pulled sone of the dent out and my buddy worked on it a little tapping with a brass hammer. There was abs still are a few hammer dimples in it. I tried to smooth it today with 400 grit and then used a few coats of Oxpho blue over the area and sanded the bluing lightly with 400 grit till I had a nice looking domascus showing. I cleaned the spot with vinegar trying to etch it first. It lightened up the spot. After my oxpho bluing and sanding the shiny spot I sanded 25 years ago blends in pretty good. I think I’ll leave the rest of the gun alone.

    The bottom barrel is the oxpho bluing I did today. Boy that domascus sure would look pretty if I did the barrels. I just figured it might deter from the value. I’ll quit and call it a shotgun.




  15. #35
    Boolit Grand Master Tripplebeards's Avatar
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    The receiver was polished like chrome and since I’m not restoring it I figure I better put some patina on it I put a little bit of Oxbow blue in various spots and blotted some vinegar on it to make it look like patina and Parkerizing. I figure if I don’t like it I get bored with it I can always strip it back off.


  16. #36
    Boolit Master quail4jake's Avatar
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    Looks great! It has honest wear and patina. Those barrels look like crolle damascus, which is one of the nicer patterns. You could try Laurel Forge browning solution to rust brown and bring up that contrast, the real browning on damascus barrels is done by Batchelder in MN(?)...we recently had a set of barrels done by them and they turned out beautiful with microweld repairs to some spots. They charge money... Browning solution is less and it doesn't brown deep. Good luck!

  17. #37
    Boolit Grand Master Tripplebeards's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by quail4jake View Post
    Looks great! It has honest wear and patina. Those barrels look like crolle damascus, which is one of the nicer patterns. You could try Laurel Forge browning solution to rust brown and bring up that contrast, the real browning on damascus barrels is done by Batchelder in MN(?)...we recently had a set of barrels done by them and they turned out beautiful with microweld repairs to some spots. They charge money... Browning solution is less and it doesn't brown deep. Good luck!
    Thanks I was second guessing my Parkerizing job. I figured even if it’s not original it still looks nice and it cut way down on the shine for hunting. The receiver looked like bright polished chrome. I cleaned the rust off and polished it with chrome polish back in the 90’s. My plan was always to make it usable and go out and shoot and shoot a big Tom turkey with. When I was deer hunting the other day I had about 30 turkeys walk within 15 or 20 yards and wish I had it! When anterless only season is over Sunday I’ll go out the next day and try it out. I’ve had a flock of young turkeys roost within a 100 yards or less of me every day this past week. After I drill a couple turkeys whether they plan on mounting a fan behind it and hanging it on the wall.
    Last edited by Tripplebeards; 12-10-2020 at 10:20 AM.

  18. #38
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    3B: I think what you've got right now looks pretty good for a gun of that age. Everything matches. so? I was a little worried when I saw the pic in post #33, but realized it was just the lighting that made it look copper toned.

    Randy
    "It's not how well you do what you know how to do,,,It's how well you do what you DON'T know how to do!"
    www.buchananprecisionmachine.com

  19. #39
    Boolit Grand Master Tripplebeards's Avatar
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    Yep, it looked like a bright shiny silver/chrome bumper. The receiver was solid rust when I bought it. I sanded and polished it decades ago right after I bought it. The firing pins and the one existing hammer was rusted and frozen solid in place before I started so I went to town cleaning and polishing at the time.

  20. #40
    Boolit Grand Master Tripplebeards's Avatar
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    After restoring a few rimfires the last couple of weeks I was brave enough to cap off a four foot 3” piece of PVC tube and insert my barrel in it and fill it with vinegar. I soaked it for and hour or so. I then removed it and sanded it all down with 400 grit sandpaper. I then put it back in over night. I had dark spotting from the vinegar the next day so I had to to go through and sand it with 320 and 400 grit sandpaper for an hour or two to remove the rest of the imperfections. I then wiped it down with Oxpho blue (only bluing I had in hand, someday maybe I’ll brown it) and then lightly sanded off the top coating with a foam backed sandpaper that came with a plastic buffing kit. I’m sure it was 1000 to 1200 grit. I knocked off the bluing on the surface and left the domascus pattern dark. There are still a few deep dings and small imperfections but it looks a million times better. Imo it turned out quite nice. It doesn’t look like a dark spotted rusty old barrel and more and I can see the domascus pattern clearly everywhere I look now. I working on the wood now. I didn’t realize it was loose and cracked under the left side of the trigger guard. I filed the crack with acraglass and claimed it overnight. I degreased the stock the best I could and raised about 95% of the dents. There are going to be a few that are so deep that they won’t come out. I will have to get creative. I saw Larry Potterfield fill in with sawdust and epoxy mix. I’ll have to give it a try. The wood looks way to light now. I’ll have to pick up some black walnut stain to apply to hide some of the imperfections before I apply tongue oil and wax. Hope black walnut is the correct color. My stock was pretty dark to begin with.



    That’s to a member here I have some reloading goodies to get started. I’m down to finding some 5 or 6 lead shot for turkey hunting now. All that’s at the the LGS is 7, 71/2, 8.
    Last edited by Tripplebeards; 02-27-2021 at 08:15 AM.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check