Reloading EverythingLee PrecisionTitan ReloadingWideners
Snyders JerkyRepackboxRotoMetals2MidSouth Shooters Supply
Load Data Inline Fabrication
Results 1 to 11 of 11

Thread: barrel swap on Rem 700

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    sulphur springs, Tx
    Posts
    1,243

    barrel swap on Rem 700

    Bought a new takeoff .375 H&H barrel along with a used 700 Rem in 7 mag with the intention of putting together a cast boolet shooter. I've removed the original barrel and used a depth mike to check clearances and dimensions on both the action and new barrel. The barrel needs to turn roughly 135 degrees to allow sight holes to align. My question is, can I reduce the thickness of the recoil lug by the .023" needed to allow sight alignment and then run a finish chamber reamer into the chamber to increase chamber depth back to correct headspace? Trying to do this without using a lathe, but I'll take it to a 'smith if someone sees a problem with doing it as I described.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
    HeavyMetal's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Orange county, Ca.
    Posts
    3,944
    Are you planning to put iron sights on this gun? If so trim the .023 off the lug. If not, and the barrel sungs up with the correct headspace, just put a screw or two in the holes and be done with it.

    Another thought is look at Brownells catalog. I know they offer lugs in several thickness's maybe you can find one that won't require any work?

    Figure it's simpler to do some research before you do any metal removal.

  3. #3
    Boolit Grand Master Nobade's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    SE WV
    Posts
    6,271
    I wouldn't recommend trying to thin the recoil lug. They are quite hard, and that much material removal would require a surface grinder. It has to be flat and parallel or it won't work. Not to mention that you must allow for draw torque, which you don't know since you don't know how flat your mating surfaces are (barrel shoulder, lug, reciever face). So it would be a cut and try proposition.
    So, I would strongly recommend you getting it done correctly. You'll be much happier looking at your properly assembled and set up rifle in the future than if you just slap it together.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master Scrounger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Area 51
    Posts
    3,482
    Not a gunsmith but couldn't the same thing be achieved by removing that small amount .023" from the barrel shoulder?
    Alternatively, I am sure there are variations in the thickness of recoil lugs. You could accurately measure the thickness of yours and ask if anyone on the forum has one that is .023 thinner than yours. Probably several guys have the lugs from barrels they have removed.
    Now this one I'll get static on: You're talking almost half a turn here; you could go the other way to make your sights line up. You'd end up with a chamber that would be about .050" long in headspace. You could seat your bullets out a little long to keep the case head against the bolt face and fireform the brass for your chamber. Set reloading dies to match. Agreed, correcting the problem with a lathe would be the best solution, but if you had to do it, that way would work.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master at Heaven's Range, 2009 Phil's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    534
    Don't forget to allow for crush when you remove metal from the shoulder of the barrel. If you don't, the barrel will tighten over center. That's why its better to have the job done properly. Cheaper in the long run into the bargain.

    Phil

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    sulphur springs, Tx
    Posts
    1,243

    700 barrel swap

    The barrel is drilled/tapped for sights so the holes look pretty bad being so far out of alignment. I realize I could screw the barrel "out" to obtain sight hole alignment but I have a Model 70 .375 that I was hoping to share brass with.

    I have a second recoil lug which measures .187" in thickness so there is a few thousandths variation in thickness of factory lugs.

    Gentlemen, thanks for your thoughts on this. I believe I'll find a gunsmith who will set the shoulder back the .023" and then deepen the chamber to correct headspace.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Eugene, Oregon
    Posts
    660
    I have a 375 H&H reamer from an identical project a couple years back.

    John

  8. #8
    Boolit Master mroliver77's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Northwest, Ohio
    Posts
    2,922
    Talk to Willbird on this forum. He does mighty fine work on 700 Rem.
    J
    "The .30-06 is never a mistake." Townsend Whelen

    "THESE are the times that try men's souls. The summer soldier and the sunshine patriot will, in this crisis, shrink from the service of their country; but he that stands by it now, deserves the love and thanks of man and woman. Tyranny, like hell, is not easily conquered; yet we have this consolation with us, that the harder the conflict, the more glorious the triumph."
    Thomas Paine

  9. #9
    Boolit Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    NW Ohio, almost as N and W as you can be :-)
    Posts
    2,915
    Quote Originally Posted by mroliver77 View Post
    Talk to Willbird on this forum. He does mighty fine work on 700 Rem.
    J

    And darn little of it too

    Bill
    Both ends WHAT a player

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    sulphur springs, Tx
    Posts
    1,243
    I went ahead and barrelled the action to see how the rifle would shoot with cast as it is currently throated. (has a funnel shaped throat) and I was really disappointed.

    I tried several loads which had shot really well in the M 70 and nothing I tried grouped worth dirt. It looks like I will now have to set the shoulder back enough to rechamber deep enough to get rid of the existing throat. Should I throat the barrel with a straight sided throat at groove diameter, which is .377" ?

  11. #11
    Boolit Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    NW Ohio, almost as N and W as you can be :-)
    Posts
    2,915
    Typically a throat is bigger than groove dia, if you do it right AT groove dia if there is anything the tiniest bit off center it will not clean up all the way around ? Your reamer will follow the old chamber unless the gunsmith bores it first, re-chambering is actually quite a bit more difficult than chambering in the first place....and the results are iffy....that is why a lot of people do not do it......their name rides on the quality of their work, and rechambering is a crapshoot in that dept.

    Bill
    Both ends WHAT a player

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check