Lubrication of a Ruger Single Action

[nicholst55]

Although I can't find the citation, John Linebaugh recommended putting a drop of oil on the cylinder "nose." He said that even the thinnest layer of oil would reduce battering between the front bearing surface of the cylinder and the frame. In the loads that Linebaugh works with, battering is a concern.

This is the same reason for greasing the ratchet. When I say that I apply grease, I mean a very small dab, which is cleaned away and replaced frequently - not a big gob of grease so it can gum everything up! This is the procedure advocated by most of the top revolversmiths, FWIW.

[Texas by God]

Bazoo, I've used 3in1 oil on the same points you mentioned for all the Single Sixes and Blackhawks I've ever owned. Works still.

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[Walks]

Bolt:

That thingy at the bottom of the cylinder opening that comes up to lock the cylinder in place.

You know : the "bolt "thingy"

What My Dad called it.

Real Vaquero's:

The first batch made on the NM frame. The ones with a 2 digit SN prefix. Hand Filling grips of Real Walnut. Available with 7 1/2" bbl's.

Not the reduced size ones that come with skinny cheap plastic things that Ruger calls grips. The ones with a reverse indexing pawl that allows the cylinder to
unrealisticly spin in both directions. The ones that while reduced in size are just a bit too big to fit into a COLT SAA Holster without stretching it out so a COLT "floats" in it.

GEEZ !!!
Don't youse Guys know "nuthin" ???

[alamogunr]

I am amazed that there are 23 posts and no one has posted a criticism of someone's choice of lube.

Post #4 doesn't really count. It came across as personal opinion.

[Ramjet-SS]

Anyone wonder how long that dab of lube stays on the nose of the cylinder with the blast coming from the cylinder gap?

I remember John telling this about the battering. The thing I always though about is increasing the surface area if that is real big problem. The cylinders were being made and line bored. I did this but after one or two shots that lube on the nose was gone. On the rear ratchet it’s different story no muzzle blast there.

[Tatume]

I had the same question. While at the range shooting maximum loads in my 44 Mag and 454 Casull revolvers I pulled the cylinders to look. Oil was present. It was thin, but it was there. It's easy to add a tad now and then too.

[littlejack]

I went out this Tuesday last, and shot over a hundred rounds through my Ruger SBH Hunter.
After receiving the piece, I inspected, cleaned and lubed it for its first range session. This would be my first shooting session with this particular revolver. While in the shooting process, I removed the cylinder several times, to check for lead fouling in the bore, powder residue in the chambers etc. While checking several times, I realized that with each firing, the blast was depositing bullet lube between the front of the gas ring and the frame. So, as far as I'm concerned, this particular area is self lubricating with a mixture of beeswax, alox and lanolin. So, I lube this area during cleaning, as well as the other friction areas, and am satisfied knowing that lubricant is being deposited in a proper place while shooting.

[El Bibliotecario]

It is my biased opinion that people rhapsodize about their favorite lubricant, but the key issue is not what is used, but that that it gets done on a regular basis. Having said that, I use Lubriplate on the base pin and cylinder ratchet, because I find it a good lubricant--and because I have a lifetime supply.

[littlejack]

Nothing at all wrong with lubriplate.

[Scrounge]

It is my biased opinion that people rhapsodize about their favorite lubricant, but the key issue is not what is used, but that that it gets done on a regular basis. Having said that, I use Lubriplate on the base pin and cylinder ratchet, because I find it a good lubricant--and because I have a lifetime supply.

Which one? There are a bunch of different lubriplate greases. Just the multipurpose greases: https://www.lubriplate.com/Industria...PurposeGreases There are also a bunch of specialty greases, though I didn't see anything specifically for firearms.

Actually, IMHO, for most stuff, it really doesn't matter what you use as long as you use something. I do have a new favorite grease, myself. It's Mobil Polyrex EM. It's intended for use in high speed bearings for electrical motors. It's water proof, and rated for 750 degrees F. Ain't cheap, either. I was using it at work, until last week, going to have to buy some of my own now.

[Petrol & Powder]

Bazoo, I've used 3in1 oil on the same points you mentioned for all the Single Sixes and Blackhawks I've ever owned. Works still.

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/\ I've seen many a gun that went more than a lifetime with not much more than 3 in 1 oil ! /\

The topic has been covered many times over but it is more important that guns are cleaned and oiled than what they are oiled with.

In my less prosperous days, ATF was my "universal gun oil" (I had unlimited supply) and it worked JUST FINE. If times were tough I know I could always go back to that.

I've seen guns that survived a lifetime that were cleaned with kerosene and lubricated with 3 in 1 oil.

Guns are not very demanding when it come to lubrication. That doesn't mean they should be neglected but it does mean we can overthink this issue at times.

[Petrol & Powder]

Like many of us, I have a shelf full of oils, greases, cleaners, solvents and gun care products.
However, for about 90%+ of my needs, I can get by with these four:



Hoppes #9 for cleaning bores after shooting jacketed bullets (dissolves copper fouling and is a good bore cleaner)
Kroil for cleaning the bore after shooting lead. It works for some other cleaning jobs as well.
Clenzoil is my "all around" cleaner, lubricant, protection oil.
RIG for long term storage of ferrous metals.

Not pictured is Lubriplate or White lithium grease for high load sliding surfaces (like sears)

There are other products for other applications and EVERYONE has their favorites. There's nothing wrong with a little diversity in this arena.

If I had to go back to using ATF, it wouldn't bother me a bit. 3 in 1 oil is actually pretty good stuff too.

[daleraby]

Stainless Ruger Flattop Bisley .44 Special. EWL or Tetra grease on the ratchet, base pin and revolver "nose". Any kind of gun oil on other pivot points. Hoppes Number Nine for cleaning the bore and chambers, any kind of solvent similar to Birchwood Casey Gun Scrubber for a general solvent "bath" once in a while. I clean and lube it at the end of each day if I fire the gun at all. A "Q-tip" with a 3/4" patch soaked in solvent works well for cleaning the cylinder pivot before re-greasing. Q-tips work well for applying the grease as well.

Fitted jags with cotton patches soaked in Hopes #9 is the way to clean it. Use a bore guide. Can't remember if it was Elmer or Skeeter who recommended a leather thong with a slit in it to drag a patch through the bore and/or chambers. This works OK, but brass jags work better for lead removal.

I routinely shoot fairly heavy "handshake with God" charges using 2400 and/or Green Dot and do experience some leading with cast bullets, though it hasn't become much of a problem as I seldom shoot more than a cylinder or two each day... if even that. Got some bronze wool ordered, but I have used a lead remover cloth in the past.

Blue Loc-Tite is a good idea for the ejector housing screw and also for the mounting screw(s) for your Bowen Rough Country rear sight. If the white outline gets dissolved by solvent, typewriter correction fluid will restore it. You DO have a Rough Country sight don't you?!

[Electrod47]

Might as well chime in...Lubriplate has my vote for ratchet and base pin. Was a floorboy in a tool and die. shop as a kid...Lubriplate was the thing.

[Bazoo]

I appreciate everyones responses. I went back and read most of them again. I'm still trying different things to see what I like best. I haven't tried grease on my ratchet yet, but I'm looking to try that next I think.

I have been making sure that I put a thin film of oil on the cylinder front to help with battering. I do not load to "battering" levels but wear is cumulative.

[lightload]

Hoppe's gun oil used as Doug stated above. Any grease on the base pin.

[georgerkahn]

My choice, after barrel cleaning is to spray all with G96. To me, the stuff is amazing and then some. I also bought and use just a drop, as DougGuy does, with an oil that comes with a needle applicator called NanoOil.
geo

[Bazoo]

I like the smell of G96, but I don’t use it myself yet.

Well a thread about Ruger Blackhawks ought to have pics; here is my New Model Blackhawk 44 Special with my favorite hunting knife.

[Blkpwdrbuff]

Bazoo, how did you strip the grip frame and trigger?
I really like the looks of it and would like to get it done to a few of mine.
Blkpwdrbuff

[reddog81]

It is my biased opinion that people rhapsodize about their favorite lubricant, but the key issue is not what is used, but that that it gets done on a regular basis. Having said that, I use Lubriplate on the base pin and cylinder ratchet, because I find it a good lubricant--and because I have a lifetime supply.

I agree.

I've used XYZ lubricant for 10 years without issue, so that proves it is the best... The problem with that statement is that ANY reasonable lubricant will work. Used motor oil will work as well as any $10 per .1 ounce wonder oil. The lube requirements for any single action firearm are pretty simple.