Something is causing that cap to be cocked allowing the front at the detent hole on the shoulder of the column to have clearance and have contact in the back. Thinking out loud here....If the column threads were pulled, they'd all have to be pulled or the cap would bind when screwing the cap on to the threads. There is clearance built into the threads cause there course threads. The allen head locking screw is adjusted and the end of it comes in contact with the ball. The more you tighten that locking screw, it's pulls up on the cap and the clearance in the column threads and the clearance in cap threads bottom out. When the cap screw is tightened down completely, all the threads should be in contact with each other. But some how, your cap has clearance in the front and zero clearance in the back. The column detent ball and spring play no roll in this clearance. All the ball does is lock the turret in each station. The eight holes that are machined on the underside of the turret has to be cut at 45 degree's or 60 degree's (can't remember) and can NOT be chamfered. The edge of the hole needs to sharp and not chamfered. The sharp edge is what keeps the detent ball in the hole, kind of like a lock. Ok, the next thing that I'm thinking about out loud here is, the cap screw that locks the cap on the column. The lock screw has a hole for the ball to set into on the face of the screw. That hole allows equal pressure to be pulled on the threads when it's adjusted. That locking screw should set flush or below the edge of the hole (at least mine do and all the pictures that I've looked at on the internet). I did notice yours is setting proud (high) on top of your cap. In that picture, is it adjusted..?? Or have you replaced it with a new longer one..?? If you've replaced it with a new one that is longer, be sure the face of the lock screw has a round hole for the ball to set in. That locking screws face can not be flat.Originally Posted by 4RT
Another thought or thing that comes to mind that could be causing your issue. On the top of your column is a hole that was used for when it was put on the lathe for the machining process. That hole is were the cap ball goes when you screw the cap on and when you screw the locking screw in and adjust it. That holes edge has to be sharp and NOT chamfered. Check that holes edge for sharpness. If it's been chamfered, that chamfer will allow the ball to move from side to side. That holes sharp edge acts like a lock for the ball. Take your turret off the press and clean the ball of all oil. Take a clean rag and clean that hole of any oil. Place the ball back in the hole and take your fingers and see if the ball will move any in the hole. The ball should not move any in that hole, the ball should be positive locked in that hole. If you can rock it any, you need to resurface the top of your column at that hole to bring the holes edge back to being sharp. Remember that hole is a lock for that ball. You can probably file or sand that face to get rid of the chamfer.
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That cap came from a M&M Engineering turret press that I have/own. That press is way back on my burner for fixing (still hot under the collar about it's condition when I bought that press). Let just put it this way, when I finally get around to fixing it, most will say, why you even bring it back when it's already in the grave. And my answer to that question is: that's a good question. But, my other turret is a true Hollywood Gun Shop Senior Turret Press. The carriage assembly has the correct Hollywood keyway and machined groove in the column. The ballway and the V groove is not the correct way that Hollywood Gun Shop Tool had it done. Anywaaays, that's a rant for another day ( 
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