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Thread: 40 cal shot shells using 10mm brass?

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by gpidaho View Post
    6bg6ga: Very interesting thread. I have one of the Charter Arms 40 S&W five shot revolvers. I may have to give this conversion a try. Gp
    It should work
    Last edited by 6bg6ga; 02-11-2020 at 03:00 PM.

  2. #22
    Boolit Grand Master popper's Avatar
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    I've shot Cci snake shot in 40, problem is not hot enough to work the slide so stovepipe. They feed ok. Alum. case. Look like 10 neck sized. May have to try WST load.
    Whatever!

  3. #23
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    Case is a 10mm neck sized to 357 sig dim. Since I don't have a 40 anymore I have to depend on info from my neighbors on how a 40 feeds and such. I didn't realize a simple favor could get so complicated. I'm told my 10's necked down and sized do feed and eject.

  4. #24
    Boolit Grand Master popper's Avatar
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    I've been told that most 40 S.A. actually H.S. on the extractor. I was looking for something that will work for snakes in S. Tx. when hog hunting. CCI (I think they use #9) only gives me one shot. Pattern is only good to maybe 5 ft. but that should be enough. The stovepipe is the problem, have to clear it vs just re-racking the slide. Sound like you have a good solution.
    Whatever!

  5. #25
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    Looking to try this as we have rattlers in my area. I've got 357 sig dies and have sized 25 10mm cases to chamber in the 40. One question. Do you use any type of wad between powder and shot, or they all "floating" arround together?

    Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

  6. #26
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    I haven't built any in .40 (don't have a 40 or 10mm yet) but have done a lot of other calibers, I would at least use a disk wad, better yet a sleeve (take a rectangle of thin cardboard or plastic, PETE drink bottle might be ideal, cut an 'x' in the middle so you can wrap the wad around a dowel and insert it into the case.) Could try that over a disk wad to see if that improves pattern and or function? If it isn't working the action, a little hotter powder charge may help that, but the hotter the load the more of a hole in the center your pattern will tend to have. Look at loads with a boolit weight similar tobthe weight of your shot load but start low & sneak up on that powder weight.

  7. #27
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    I'm toying around with making 40's & 10mm shot loads, my problem is I no longer have a 40 or 10, have to rely on a friend to 'test' my loads but he lives a fair distant from us. Am using 10mm magnum brass, for the 40 I have to cut off about an 8th inch then it will be a length that will work, use a .357 mag crimp or sizer die to form a shoulder, works quite well. Can also do a roll over crimp to hold wad over shot or a 'notch' die to star make a star crimp, notch die does take a little bit of shot weight away from what a roll crimp gives. #12 and # 9 shot is all I have at this time to try, so far the 10mm has 'stoved piped' after each
    shot which really does not bother me, you just don't need for them to rapid fire.
    Make my wads by using large rifle brass cut off just below ejector grove, sharpen case neck mouth, use drill press to cut 'press' out the wad.
    Don't know why i'm doing this but for sure i've got the time and i do enjoy.
    Cheers, Woof woof Gus an me

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by 10sandxs View Post
    Looking to try this as we have rattlers in my area. I've got 357 sig dies and have sized 25 10mm cases to chamber in the 40. One question. Do you use any type of wad between powder and shot, or they all "floating" arround together?

    Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
    Quote Originally Posted by 6bg6ga View Post
    ...Yesterday I processed a 1/2 dozen rounds.

    My process as follows... 1.) Full length size and decap the 10mm brass. 2.) Process the neck by running it thru the 357 sig die. (I setup the die to obtain about .130 neck form the end of the case to the start of the radius of the bend.) This distance may vary as it was a guess on my part. 3.) I installed a primer (large primer) 4.) I put 5.4 gr of W231 in the case followed by a piece of cardboard (wad) 5.) I put 80gr of #7.5 shot in the case followed by another wad. 6.) I slightly crimped the end by using a 45acp bullet seating die with a round nose adapter.

    Now, the neck is a guess. The powder charge is a guess but certainly under the minimum for a 130gr bullet. The shot is a guess also but I read where manufactured shot shells used 88 gr of shot.

    Wad I made from Coke red carton by using a sharpened 9mm empty with the primer punched out. I used a small drill to push the punched cardboard from the case. Case was sharpened using a Hornady unit with a inside and an outside deburring tools on it.
    He uses a wad on top of the powder per step 4 in his process.

  9. #29
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    Thanks, not sure how I missed that...

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  10. #30
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    every time I get serious about making shot loads in pistol shells I usually revert to using #9 shot because its the smallest I have although others report great success with smaller shot like #11 and 12 and this is one item ive yet to put into inventory for one reason or another.
    how far a spread should be expected from 80 gr of 7.5 shot out of a g22 or other semi auto? at 3 yards? 5 yards?

  11. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr_Sheesh View Post
    My experience with the 45 ACP shotshells was that the mouth of the cases expanded enough to engrave the rifling onto the mouth end of fired cases; If you don't try 224 or 6.8 I probably will as I'm curious about those. With the case headspacing on the "case mouth" I'd think 4 mils "looseness" should still result in a very near-center primer strike and proper function, probably even make case extraction easier so it might function well with less powder? Do as you want, of course

    The .30 Remington could be used as a donor (I won't be responsible for the crowds who suddenly appear with torches and pitch forks, though!) or the 30-30 Win., if you turned the rim down, maybe? Bit larger base diameter on the .30-30.

    Lower powered loads are fine in shotshells for rifled handguns as the pattern will be less "doughnut"-shaped.

    The 10mm cases being may be shorter than I might cut 224 or 6.8 to, that will reduce the chances of that rifling "grabbing" the case and retarding case extraction; I have seen articles stating that hot loads in the 45 ACP shotshells cause issues there. I've avoided hot loads, just a habit. (A good one IMO)

    How are you closing the case mouths? Do the loaded rounds fit inside of the same profile as a "typical" 10mm FMJ round? Quite curioius about that, I need to find a friend with a 10mm here near Seattleish, or save up and buy something And someone with a 357 Sig sizer maybe.
    What you said about the case swelling into the rifling in the barrel- I used military.308 because that was what I had.
    Well, the recut and reformed .308 Milsurp cases were very thick, especially in the necked down .45 case, but they worked perfectly and all ejected smooth thru two different pistols.
    So maybe the thicker case kept it from expanding into the rifling.
    But, in your case, it's best to reduce the powder charge, a fraction at a time.I used WW231, I think 6.1 grains.
    Also, others have used Unique and even 700x with success.
    Last edited by Alferd Packer; 07-19-2021 at 06:13 AM.

  12. #32
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    I have used neck cracked 257 Roberts cases, 243, 308, commercial and military cases, get some rifling on the case necks but not enough to hold the case in the barrel. Good function is my goal

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check