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Thread: First rebarreling attempt

  1. #41
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    South Texas but sometimes it feels like Northern Mexico
    Posts
    295
    found time to spend the day at the shop . Finally my Rugger 77 action is wearing an aluminum rod that is properly threaded to fit the action. I did just about every thing you could do wrong wrong... I suppose every one but me knows this but I figured out that you can start again by using magnifier glasses you can reposition the thread cutter in the partially cut threads. If you disengage power to the threading rod and turn it by hand until it lines up with the thread dial you can start over and it will follow your previous cuts.

    now the question is how do yu know when the threads are deep enough. I just kept cutting taking very small cuts until the action would screw on. If you don't have that option how do you know when the treads are deep enough?
    Since I am running at the lathes slowest speed I ordered some HSS threading inserts and holders.

    The next step is to take and take off barrel and cut if off and try to thread it to fit. Then I will try with the Douglas barrel. I am having fun and appreciate all the advice.

  2. #42
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Northwest Ohio
    Posts
    14,574
    An old trick that helps a lot is lay a piece of clean white paper under the thread when recatching it. The white color and reflected light makes the gaps stand out better.

    As to measuring a thread the cheapest was is set of thread wires and a Mic. This does take some match also. You can use them as a comparitor by measuring the barrels threads and repeating the dimension. A gage can be made single pointing the thread until it just fits then split and drill and tap 2 screw holes one pull and one pusher. The pusher can be used to open the puller to tighten this can be set to the barrel lightly snug and used to test thread.

  3. #43
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    South Texas but sometimes it feels like Northern Mexico
    Posts
    295
    well happy days!
    I had been really spinning my wheels with the project of teaching myself to thread. Today a real machinist came out and spent a couple of hours with me... What a difference. I didn't realize that with my lathe you can't just turn the compound to 29 1/2 half degrees so I didn't have it set properly. It actually took him a little while to figure out how to set it. He showed me another thing about making large moves with the dials so that there is enough movement to take out all the back lash out of the the threads. With his supervision I was able to cut a perfect 1x 16tpi thread .. SO now I am off and running. I ordered a Long reach indicator to dial the barrel in.

    Amazing what a little help from some one who knows what he is doing can do

    this afternoon I refashioned my out board spider so that it threads on . Off to the races

  4. #44
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Reno, NV
    Posts
    109
    Commercial Mauser 98 would be the easiest IMO, as there is no counterbore for the bolt nose like the Rem 700. I've never seen the thread for a Ruger 77, if there is no clearance cut for the extractor like a Win 70 it would be basically the same as the M98 except for thread dimension differences.

  5. #45
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    South Texas but sometimes it feels like Northern Mexico
    Posts
    295
    the model 77 is very simple. No extractor cut.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check