Ultrasonic revolver cleaning?

[georgerkahn]

Driving through "snow-globe" snow yesterday, I went to a ~40 mile distant shop. A gorgeous from the outside, but sewer-pipe barrel Fulton Armory (Springfield) 5.4mil s/n Garand almost brought tears to my eyes ($599 price!). Germane to this thread, and a real question I have is re a Ruger Vaquero in bright stainless .45 Colt also on display.
This --what no doubt was gorgeous revolver -- probably (my guess?) was fired with both black powder and smokeless; lead bullets; and -- again, my guess -- probably has not ever been cleaned. The cylinder throats resemble 100-grit sandpaper!
My question, hopefully to one of you knowledgeable persons who have tried this:
Would it be a "good" or not-so-good move to drop the entire revolver, minus of course its grips, in, say, a Hornady ultrasonic cleaner, using their parts cleaner mixed in distilled water? Visiting with most pleasant salesperson, we both agreed it would, indeed, be quite the challenge to clean this revolver -- the reason the shop is offering it "as is". (the price is low enough to cause the wheels in my noggin to start turning... BUT... is it restorable/cleanable?) I've never seen a stainless firearm soooo crudded, and surely will be appreciative of your experience?
Thanks much! geo

[Love Life]

Depends on price.

[6bg6ga]

I picked up a Ruger super Red hawk a while back that looked pretty bad. I stripped it down and gave it an ultrasonic bath and it come out of the tub looking pretty good. Once out I cleaned it a bit more and removed all the water and moisture. I then took it to my buffing wheel for a light go around. When done it looked brand new.

So, it probably can be restored.....my opinion.

[sparkyv]

If you will sonicate, I strongly suggest you completely disassemble the firearm. Otherwise the parts will rub against each other and it makes it difficult to completely remove the water. I've ever only sonicated small parts and barrels from semi-autos, and never sights. It works great.

[6bg6ga]

That is what they make air compressors and air nozzles for. Its a simple process to blow away ALL the water and moisture. Done it a number of times and no rust. I will point out that one should lubricate after blowing away the water.

[jaguarxk120]

It is best to strip a gun down to the last part as 6bg has said. The cleaner will get each part cleaner
better than it was made. Also remove all dried oil and varnish from past lubes/cleaners.
You might be surprised after a in depth cleaning on how it functions and shoots!

[contender1]

As noted,, a disassembly before cleaning will be the best route. Ultrasonic cleaning is excellent when used properly. And as mentioned,, quickly drying after rinsing in VERY hot water after the cleaner solution, (I use a hair dryer,) followed by a good lubing,, makes things very clean.
One thing to watch for is pitting.
Rust pitting has a mind of it's own. We, as humans THINK a spot is just a simple hole etc. But rust will eat away metal in all kinds of directions. If there is any pits you can not directly see,, (such as inside a bbl,) I'd look for a spare bbl. Same with a cylinder.

[charlie b]

I'd price it as a frame and guts as you may be replacing the cylinder and barrel.

I'd strip it down just to see how the parts look after being neglected so long. Especially checking to make sure no one messed with the sear engagment surfaces. Then simple to drop them in the ultrasonic cleaner.

You must have a different Hornady unit than I do. I would not be able to fit a revolver frame and barrel in mine.

PS after cleaning I'd shoot it to see how it does. Sometimes a sewer pipe will shoot ok.

[Kraschenbirn]

There are ultrasonic cleaners and then there are ULTRASONIC CLEANERS! Have never tried the Hornaday but have used/owned a couple of similar benchtop cleaners and, for the most part, was satisfied with their performance on tools and small parts. On the other hand, at one time I had access to a real, industrial-grade model...difference like night and day. Placed parts that had been cleaned in my benchtop unit in the shop machine and was amazed by the amount of crud that came off the 'clean' parts.

Bill

[georgerkahn]

THANK YOU for posts thus far! Not that I'm wary re dealer -- good people -- but that they are offering the revolver as they took it in does frighten me more than a tad. (Are they afraid what will be revealed if they clean it?) On the one hand, I can tell myself it is "bright stainless steel" -- so it shouldn't be too bad underneath the crud. On the other hand, if I'd need to have a new barrel, plus a new cylinder -- hey -- just either one would take it out of the "bargain!" designation. Serial number (I wrote it down) indicates it was made in 2006 -- with no suggestion as to when it was last fired.
Thanks again for replies... BUT, the more I think on it, I think I'll let a future customer of shop make an offer/purchase. A "troubling" bit of trivia I didn't note is -- while in no way "bad mouthing" the prior owner, it surely was apparent his words have little believably -- him also being the former owner of M1 I mentioned -- his tale is such that "unbelievable" might be a stretch... So sad -- it was a gorgeous .45 Colt Vaquero!
geo

[Groo]

Groo here
Remove grips , drop in a contaner of K-1 [aka clear kerosene] and let sit for a few days , then hang and let drain for a day [or blow out with air]
Also you might try some BJs bore cleaner on a tight patch.

[Xringshooter]

Well, I specialize in repair/refurbishment of the old Ruger Six series DA revolvers (Security Six, Police Service Six and Speed Six). When I get a neglected one I take it completely apart, I mean completely (other than removing the barrel from the frame), even the front sight comes off. All the parts go into a Harbor Freight ultrasonic cleaner that I have had for 20 plus years (and still works great). I found an industrial gun cleaner called MC Gun Cleaner from the Chautauqua Chemicals Company. You mix it 1 part cleaner to 40 parts water and fill the UC. I run it for 30 to 45 minutes (depending on how bad the gun parts look). It has never affected the bluing on any of the guns I've cleaned. When it's done, I take the parts that looked the worst in the beginning in case I need to let it go a bit later. With this new cleaner I have yet to have to clean a gun a second time. An ultrasonic cleaner makes completely cleaning an abused/neglected handgun soooo much easier than scrubbing by hand and it gets all the crud out of all the tiny cracks and crevices. If you use hot water to begin with the parts come out VERY hot and self dry pretty quickly.

If you clean a lot of guns/gun parts or even if it's just a once in a while endeavor, I say buy an ultrasonic cleaner, you will be glad you did. You can also use it to clean other stuff around the house also.

[Ford SD]

I have started cleaning up some old M1 Garand receivers ( Beretta ) that have been sitting in cosmoline/ grease for many years

remove what you can using a popsical stick

3 or so very dirty cycles in the ultrasonic cleaner.... 1st change looks like chocklate milk

I have tried doing complete trigger groups 2-3 water+ cleaner changes and if you take it apart and clean again it still cleans more stuff off

So Parts will come out a lot cleaner if you take it apart

gas systems / carbon crud come off a lot easier

just using water based degreasers

first one i tried i used 2-3 cans of carb cleaner ... and the ultrasonic cleaner does a better job ....

Press the button and go do something else for 5 min

[shooting on a shoestring]

The stainless Vaquero won’t be hurt.
BUT...the time and effort to clean it up versus the price might not be a bargain. Just depends on your value of time and your value of money.
Sounds like you were not needing a Vaquero, so if you don’t need it, then it’s not a bargain for you at any price.

I’d say save your money for a piece that you really want and pass on the problem gun.
Guns should be fun not work.

[edp2k]

Make yourself up a gallon or 2 of Ed's Red.
You can search for the recipe here or google it or here is the short version.
(recipe has been checked by an organic chemist to ensure that nothing dangerous/toxic is created.
wear good gloves [auto body store rubber coated paint safe fabric gloves if acetone is involved], use outside, and don't drink it
Mix equal parts of:
1. kerosene
2. odorless mineral spirits
3. Dextron I, II, III, or IV ATF (automatic transmission fluid, GM type).
4. optional: acetone (cuts grease/carbon aggressively, but lots of odor. If you add acetone I would clean outside (i.e. not in the basement)).
5. very optional: lanolin. really only needed for preservative effect, doesn't help clean.

This needs to be stored/used in a container that won't dissolve from the ingredients, esp. the acetone.
You don't want to go out to your garage in a month and find an oil spill (i.e. ed's red spill) 10 ft. in diameter.
Many people use a 20mm ammo can (full or 1/2 height). its all metal with airtight seals.

Disassemble the gun completely, and submerge it in the ed's red, except for the grips (probably would remove the finish or muck up the rubber/plastic.)
Come back a few days later, put on good rubber gloves, and go at the exterior of everything with an old toothbrush
while the parts are still in the container, and the bore and cylinder charge holes with a brass bore brush.
You might want to wrap a bit of copper or SS chore boy around the bore brush.
You might want to chuck up the cleaning rod in a hand drill and go after the cylinder charge holes (don't be too aggressive here).

If it's as crudded up as is sounds, you may want to then let it soak again a few more days and do it all again.
Soak time is your friend.
The ATF has surfactants (google it) and detergents which get under the lead/carbon/lube/crud and lift it up and loosen it.
The surfactants keep an auto trans from getting gummed up.

Ed's red is pretty cheap to make.
If you buy random full/half bottles of ATF/kero/mineral-spirits/acetone from garage sales it will be even cheaper.

As long as you think the gun in question isn't noticeably pitted under the crud,
and the price was right, I would buy it.
But I can't see it from here, and you are there

Also, since it's stainless, those yellow lead wipe away cloths work wonders, and remove lead, carbon, and even bluing (!!!).
They also have a very fine polishing compound in them and after their use stainless guns look great
I think birchwood casey makes one brand of them.
Another is kleenbore.
https://www.amazon.com/Birchwood-Cas.../dp/B07VCGWP93
https://www.amazon.com/Kleenbore-Gun...002IEIDG4?th=1

[6bg6ga]

I certainly hope we don't get into which ultrasonic cleaner is best in this thread. They all seem to work in my opinion and I generally won't buy a high dollar name brand in this instance. I purchased a good sized one off ebay and its served me well and its still ticking just like a Timex watch. I use an industrial cleaner with some dawn and everything I have thrown in it so far comes out clean. Guys as a added benefit it will clean your wife's rings and other assorted chains and stuff that they wear. About every 6 months I clean the wife's stuff and then take her rings to the buffing wheel which makes for a happy wife with shinny bling. Added note here...a happy wife lets you buy more reloading stuff.

[tja6435]

Ruger will fit a new cylinder for $90, may be worth it vs trying to rehab

[Carrier]

I have had nothing to do with a ultrasonic cleaner but I am considering getting one. What would happen if you used straight Hoppes or Ballistol in one?

[charlie b]

Probably same as the other cleaners. Keep in mind that if your cleaner has a plastic lid some materials will react with it. Remember that the fluid is agitated so any fluid components that evaporate easily will do so. You may also want to consider cost as the tank on mine holds a bit more than a quart.

Basically all you need is some detergent to reduce surface tension and help break down any oils. There are a ton of home remedy solutions out there, just be careful of what chemicals you mix up.

[Dan Cash]

If the gun has been fired with some of the black powder substitutes and not cleaned, don't buy it unless it is cost effective to fit a new barrel and cylinder. Those propellants will eat stainless like rabbits on an oat pile.