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Thread: Fixing Gooned Screws.

  1. #21
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by indian joe View Post
    one more twist - I (sometimes) use a hacksaw blade to clean out the screw slot - can deepen it just a touch and keeps the sides nicely parallel
    If the screw head is really wrecked - deepen and widen the slot till its clean and square - take a touch off the head height - takes an expert to pick it once its back in the gun !
    I have put 2 hacksaw blades on a saw frame and taped them together for a wider slot.
    Sometime even face the blades in opposite directions too, because the teeth will interlock.
    just one more twist on your "hack"
    Size/Prime a few cases when starting off with a progressive and put them aside. You can plug them back into the process when a bad/odd case screws up in the priming station and continue loading.

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kenstone View Post
    I have put 2 hacksaw blades on a saw frame and taped them together for a wider slot.
    Sometime even face the blades in opposite directions too, because the teeth will interlock.
    just one more twist on your "hack"
    I have used a fine toothed Sawsall blade to get that type of width. Used a pair of visegrips as a handle. The screw was held between two pieces of pine in the vise. I had to grind a custom screw driver to fit that screw slot.
    JM

  3. #23
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    LS Starrett used to supply a set of 8 inch saw blades specially made for cutting screw slots in various widths. The teeth are straight cut and without any set or waviness. I ordered a set in the mid 70s and have supplied myself with a bunch of old cast iron 8 inch hacksaw frames, the heaviest ones being Millers Falls. I like the small frames so much that I cut regular blades to length and punch a new hole for these shorties, for use in fine work.

  4. #24
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    I have seen a Screw Slotting Jig for use with those shorty saw blades. I twas a while back like 30+ years ago.

    I have many slotting saws for my mill and use them occasionally. I have one 6" x .060 saw I have set up in my small mill with a right angle head that I use as a cut off saw for my Hand Press Guide Rods. Been set up that way for nearly 3 years now and I have to go down and cut a few sticks up for some Handpresses that are going out later today.

    I should call them "Hand Made Presses" as I have assembled every single one that's been sold. Were up to just below #200 right now.

    Randy
    "It's not how well you do what you know how to do,,,It's how well you do what you DON'T know how to do!"
    www.buchananprecisionmachine.com

  5. #25
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nueces View Post
    LS Starrett used to supply a set of 8 inch saw blades specially made for cutting screw slots in various widths. The teeth are straight cut and without any set or waviness. I ordered a set in the mid 70s and have supplied myself with a bunch of old cast iron 8 inch hacksaw frames, the heaviest ones being Millers Falls. I like the small frames so much that I cut regular blades to length and punch a new hole for these shorties, for use in fine work.
    you fellers in the US have had acess to so much good quality tooling (at low prices) - hope ya appreciate it!!!!!

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by indian joe View Post
    you fellers in the US have had acess to so much good quality tooling (at low prices) - hope ya appreciate it!!!!!
    I'm with you, Joe, and I do appreciate it! I surely wish we also had a good supply of the sort of tooling the UK 'model engineers' are awash in, such as Myford parts and accessories. Ebay is my only source for lots of this stuff.

  7. #27
    Boolit Mold
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    Might try Brownells, A bit pricey but will get the job done right!
    https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...-prod5742.aspx

  8. #28
    Boolit Master Kev18's Avatar
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    Happened to me on my 1887 shotgun. The stock screw was tight and I pretty much sheared half the screw head off... I clamped it down and took the mig welder to it. Im far from a welder, but that screw came out looking like an original after I filed out the screw slot. I did it with a set of cheap dollar store files.

  9. #29
    Boolit Grand Master Bazoo's Avatar
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    I buy used guns most often and it's pretty common to run across a damaged screw. In some cases I just file the damage off so there isn't a burr and leave it raw if it's a beater.

    If it's a nice gun I peen the burrs down as described. I always use a punch to get the blow exactly where I want it and often it results in a repair that doesn't need to be refinished.

  10. #30
    Boolit Buddy McFred's Avatar
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    I just remade some 6-40s last weekend using a $5 second-hand HSS slitting saw and a quick change tool holder on the lathe. Center things up, and feed into the saw turning about 60RPM.




    This weekend I think I'll use the above mentioned method of trying to push the burr into the old slots. If necessary I'll re-cut the slot a little wider.
    Last edited by McFred; 10-09-2019 at 08:18 AM.

  11. #31
    Boolit Buddy McFred's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by forwardgunner View Post
    Might try Brownells, A bit pricey but will get the job done right!
    https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...-prod5742.aspx
    Holy crap. $123 plus shipping for a set of 3 files? I'll stick with the slitter saws. That tiny radius in the bottom of the slot I can live with by comparison. Sheesh.

  12. #32
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    I've been doing the whole gun hobby for just a short time, but I quickly realized that the screwdrivers I use for working on cars, tractors, lawnmowers, etc. did not lend themselves readily to working on firearms, so I bought a set of "Grace" gunsmithing screw drivers. Absolutely no regrets.

  13. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Froogal View Post
    I've been doing the whole gun hobby for just a short time, but I quickly realized that the screwdrivers I use for working on cars, tractors, lawnmowers, etc. did not lend themselves readily to working on firearms, so I bought a set of "Grace" gunsmithing screw drivers. Absolutely no regrets.
    Even with good sets like Grace, I will end up regrinding them for specific screws. I now make my own screwdrivers.
    The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
    John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"

    Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!


  14. #34
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    I sometimes fire blue the screw heads I dress back into proper shape I think it looks nice.

  15. #35
    Boolit Master

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    I haven't gooned a screw all year! Glad I haven't had to take anything apart so far.

  16. #36
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    Gunsmith Mark Novak, on Youtube, has a video on this. He uses a bench block, just drops the screw in and starts lightly tapping. He has a little jewelers bench block but I have used a regular one. Stresses that the face of the hammer needs to be polished and smooth. He uses a 2 oz ball pein. I have done it a number of times and it does work. With light taps, you can move the buggered metal back into place if it isn't too bad. You can find the jewelers bench blocks on eBay if you want. $15 or so IIRC.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check