Hey thanks!
Hey thanks!
Starting load development with the 250gr boolit. Will leave the subsonic stuff on another thread but started with a mild load of 19gr of IMR4227. Load was stable, no signs of pressure, vel around 1590 accuracy around .75" at 50.
Will continue now that we have a safe place to start.
I have been shooting my Saeco 352 bullet allot just hypersonic 12-1400 fps with VERY GOOD accuracy. Its a 145g dependent upon alloy. I like 20:1 so Im heavier.
I also have a pair of MO molds dropping 200 & 220g bullet of about identical
Profile. (About same as LEE or RCBS 200g)
Are you in a Bolt or MSR? Bolt is easier as no powder worries at all.
CW
Last edited by cwlongshot; 02-08-2021 at 07:28 AM.
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Well right now Faxon has 10.5" 350 Legend AR barrels for $130, I guess I'm getting in on the 350 Legend game with you boys! This is gonna be a really cool SBR project with my MP 200gr HP pills. Any one here have any experience with the shorter barrels yet?
Just what I watch on Utube from Mudbug Outdoors.
CW
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Just like the 357 Max, the 350L is not that bad dropping down to around 10". In fact a very large percentage of max rounds have been fired from this length (think IHMSA revolver).
Depending on load, the difference between 10" and 18" is probably between 150 and 250 fps.
A 180 gr at around 1900 fps from a compact little AR-15 with a brace is nothing to sneeze at.
I'm running an 18" 1:14 on a bolt platform.
Ran the same 250s mentioned above subsonic and didn't notice any "tail wag" on the paper but will continue to test.
Also have a BCA upper with a 16" 1:16 that shoots factory ammo very well.
OK understood!
Your simply not at all likely to have any stability issues with that 1:14. The 1:16 is better kept under 250g. BUT as always its also very velocity determinant.
CW
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Let's see, it has been a bit as Covid, the family and family deaths have gotten in the way of my project work. As it should be.
I made the tip splitter and learned that normal arrow forms are NOT STRONG ENOUGH to drive into a WW bullet. The skinny tip folds over.
I shortened the folded over arrow tip which made it stronger and proceeded.
Then I discovered lead can split along inherent fault lines just like a rock can. I suspect they are existing fold over or mix junctions left over from pouring the mold.
Needless to say, tip splitting as a trick isn't as easy as I thought it would be.
Click on the picture to see the cracks forming.
Last edited by Oldfeller; 01-26-2021 at 03:15 PM.
All retired now, just growing tomatoes and building and shooting my guns.
Take your d reamer and make a die with the tip open. Then insert the bullet in the die and swage the hp
Somewhat moot as I can't split the tip far enough to be an effective expanded form. Plus, cracking lead means the whole thing will fragment into chunks when it hits something.
Split the tips on some ogive tipped LEE bullets, found that the lead cracks just as soon as the cut marks get out to the circumference of the bullet.
So, a round nose bullet would yield an appreciable hollow point with good form, one that a simple single push through resizing would return to chamberable dimensions.
This entire lot of lead had some zinc contamination to it and was somewhat bitchy to cast with anyway.
Could run a 50-50 mix with straight lead and see if a softer alloy is more crack resistant. This is sorta moot because the 50-50 mix would expand naturally somewhat as it is soft enough to nose deform in meat.
Plus, I don't use D reamers.
I might jest shoot up what I have on hand and wait for a new idea.
================================================== ====
Rolling on now to my next attempt at a 4 cavity round nose mold interspersed with starting some tomato plants for next summer.
Better Boys and Bush Goliath, I think .......
Last edited by Oldfeller; 02-05-2021 at 09:53 PM.
All retired now, just growing tomatoes and building and shooting my guns.
Any other movement on this subject?
90% professional 10% mature
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The great load info is what keeps me lurkin on this thread. I stocked up last time the getting was good. I have over 10k primers for the loads I need. Then, Bear Creek put their AR 350 uppers on sale for $260 bux. I live and hunt in a restricted area where 350 is legal now, and that was too good to pass up. Then I got an Aero Precision lower for about $250.00. So, I put together a dandy little brush rifle for a decent price but by that time the market went south and I got caught short. I never needed small rifle primers before this purchase. I did stock up pretty good on factory ammoes, but still I would rather keep that for reserve and reload for it.
Deplorable infidel
Fast,
Sounds like you really should post for a face to face trade to get a 1000 SRP or so.
If you were near me, I would help you out. However, 1/2 across the country is a bit far for a quick trip.
Since I am house bound in the frigid weather, I decided to sort through my mold collection and organize it. Along the way, I discovered that in addition to the Accurate 180 grain plain base 350L mold I ordered, I also have three variants of the 200 grain RCBS RF 35 rem bullet: a standard GC solid version, a plain base version, and a HP GC version. My goal is a modest velocity (subsonic would be great, but not necessary), very accurate at 50 to 75 yards, flat nosed round for hunting beavers, muskrats, etc. out of a Ruger American Ranch. These are usually small moving (swimming) targets, ranges are usually 30 to 50 yards, but can be 75, almost always headshots. Beavers have very dense skulls, so a heavy bullet is a plus. I have been using Winchester factory FMJ, but where is the fun in that when we might manage a cast version. I will cast and try the Accurate bullet since it was designed for the cartridge. Any reason I should not try the plain based version of the RCBS 200 grain 35 rem bullet? Planning to powder coat and try sizing to 358, and working with Trail Boss (charge TBD based on volume), and Unique (I figure somewhere between 6 and 10 grains). Any obvious problems here?
When you care enough to send the very best, send an ounce of lead.
I use four different versions of that RCBS 35-200 FN bullet. ALL are very accurate!!!
The RCBS 200, a MP 360-220, a MP 358-200 and a Saeco 351 245g.
I have shot the 220 as a HP the most. But the 200 as a lg PENTA is violent @ WW hardness & 15-1600. The 245 loves 1350-1400 and It took a deer cast 20:1 taking out ribs on each side before exiting with almost a quarter sized exit. Im borrowing both the MP molds so they need to go home soon. Im looking at the NOE 360-214 as option as MO is out of his and has been fone some
Months.
CW
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Thanks, CW. I have no present plans to whack deer with this rifle as all I seem to be able to get is black powder tags. Since 22 mag is plenty for beaver, I figure 200 grains of whomp doing at least 1000 FPS ought to be plenty. But I have very high requirements for accuracy in the 50 yard range given the small size of the target.
When you care enough to send the very best, send an ounce of lead.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |