Best Anti-Corrosive Spray for Metal

[Handloader109]

Boe shield is good. Wd40, never

Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk

[earlmck]

Wow! That was quite a test. Thanks for the link Ickisrulz.

[3584ELK]

I used Kroil for years, but have switched to Rem Oil and Birchwood Casey Barricade. I will wipe down exposed metal and store in the safe. My safes contain dehumidifiers and a large rag saturated with one of the above. I live in WA state near the coast, havent had a rust problem in 8 years. Knock on wood...

[Marcduper]

I have been using A 50/50 mixture of ATF and odorless paint thinner. Do not recall where this came from, but it is truly amazing. With a little time this has cleared up some rust stars from an old 870 that I have.

Marc

[David2011]

Since this thread started I’ve accumulated several older cast iron woodworking tools. All came to me with a little to a lot of rust on them. After cleaning each was treated with Boeshield T-9, allowed to soak in for a minimum of 24 hours, wiped clean and allowed to dry. Sliding surfaces like saw tops were then given a coat of Johnson’s Paste Wax but I’m not sure how effective the JPW is for corrosion protection compared to the T-9. Nothing has rusted after said treatment.

Something else that I believe helps is slowing down temperature changes. If metal gets cold and then the temperature and humidity come up, condensation will occur. The slower the temperature change, the less likely condensation will form. I may be wrong here but it seems to work in my situation and I live on the Texas Gulf Coast only 6 miles from salt water.

[fastdadio]

I've been using this stuff in the boiler room for the past two years. It's working very well for us.
https://www.crcindustries.com/produc...-10-wt-oz.html
Here's another formula;
https://www.crcindustries.com/produc...-10-wt-oz.html
https://www.crcindustries.com/produc...nhibitors.html

[jsizemore]

While in the Navy, I pulled parts out of ship's stores to repair stuff in the engine room that had been there for years. The part would be in a cardboard box with all info on the outside of the box. Parts inside were wrapped in VCI paper. Nary a spot of corrosion.

[jonp]

Motor oil actually contains no rust inhibitors; great for lubrication - not so much for rust prevention.

All i look for is a barrier between air and metal. Syn motor oil for stuff sitting static under cover works as well as anything.

For stuff like saw blades sitting in a garage or tools i switched to WD Anti Corrosion
Just checked in at camp. Tools like hammers, pliers etc sprayed and hung in a shed subjected to humidity and +80 to -30 over a year look as good as new

[elmacgyver0]

I don't have any problem with rust as long as I keep my dehumidifier emptied.

[Noah Zark]

I'm looking for products to use to preserve metal when storing guns. Needs to inhibit rust.

For that specific purpose I have used Corrosion-X for 20+ years. My first experience sold me; I had an HS2000, the Croatian predecessor to the Springfield XD9 that had a phosphated slide. They called it "Bruniral" and made it out to be some kind of wonderfinish. It wasn't.
It was plain old phosphate, but I didn't oil it at first. I got busy at work and didn't handle the HS2000 for months, and when I did, light rusty fingerprints were on the slide where I had grasped it to chamber a round when I had it out shooting shortly after purchase.
I cleaned off the powder thin rust with an oily cloth, but they kept returning. After learning about Corrosion-X from a customer, I ordered a 16 oz spray bottle and gave the XS2000's slide a thorough, liberal wipedown. The phos soaked up the Corrosion-X just like unoiled phos will do, and the recurring rusty fingerprints, always in the same spots, NEVER returned. Since then, Corrosion-X has never failed to perform for me. The owner if the company is a S&W collector; we met on another forum, and told me don't waste my money buying his specific product Corrosion-X for Guns; he said it was the same product as Corrosion-X but with a viscosity modifier and in a small bottle. He said to buy the large spray bottle of either Corrosion-X, or Corrosion-X Aviation, an even higher viscosity version. The latter is what I bought, and there's still ~ one inch in the bottle. Pleasant odor, too, sassafras like Simple Green.
It works by forming a molecules-thick layer if an oxygen blocking compound on the metsl surface, just like VCI (vapor corrosion inhibiting) paper or those blue, pink, green, or yellow treated polyethylene VCI bags. One of the best gun care products I've purchased.

Someone also mentioned WD40 Specialist Long Term Corrosion Inhibitor, and it is a much higher viscosity product like thin grease, and is phenomenal for preventing and even stopping rust. I applied it to the joint between the frame and skid plate on my LJ Wrangler after noticing the start of orange rust, common on TJ/LJ Wranglers, and it positively STOPPED the rusting. Six years on, I dropped the skid plate to replace the cat-back exhaust and there was NO rust in the joint surfaces of the skid plate or the underside of the frame. I've since bought a dozen cans and sprayed the inside of the body panels in the usual spots that rust on a TJ/LJ, and checked them this spring; NO rust. I sprayed those areas again, anyway; you can't buy a new LJ.

Noah

[BLAHUT]

An old navy big gun builder told me they used automitic transmition fluid

[geslayton]

I have been using A 50/50 mixture of ATF and odorless paint thinner. Do not recall where this came from, but it is truly amazing. With a little time this has cleared up some rust stars from an old 870 that I have.

Marc

Nothing to do with this topic, but, your inbox is full. I tried to respond to your message and can’t. Went to see your activity and this was your most recent comment.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[JSnover]

An old navy big gun builder told me they used automitic transmition fluid

I stored a couple of presses in a drafty metal shed for two years in Southeastern PA; cleaned them, wiped them down with ATF, draped an oily towel over them. No rust. Even the chipmunks didn't get into them.

[JSnover]

I have been using A 50/50 mixture of ATF and odorless paint thinner. Do not recall where this came from, but it is truly amazing. With a little time this has cleared up some rust stars from an old 870 that I have.

Marc

50/50 acetone/ATF is a home-brew 'liquid wrench' recipe and it really does work. Outperforms most of the commercial products.

[jonp]

50/50 acetone/ATF is a home-brew 'liquid wrench' recipe and it really does work. Outperforms most of the commercial products.

Drained my transmission to replace the torque converter and I have several quarts of fluid saved. Probably make penetrating oil till the cows come home.

WD Specialist Corrosion Inhibitor is my go to after trying it out for a couple of years. Liquid Wrench Penetrating Oil store bought.

[David2011]

Just don’t try to mix synthetic ATF with acetone like I did. They didn’t mix. Got some older Ford style and it mixed perfectly with the acetone.

[cwlongshot]

There have been tests done:

http://www.dayattherange.com/?page_id=3667

I use Eezox.

Eezox here too. Decades of no rust!!

[M-Tecs]

Eezox here too. Decades of no rust!!

Same for me.

[gwpercle]

Just don’t try to mix synthetic ATF with acetone like I did. They didn’t mix. Got some older Ford style and it mixed perfectly with the acetone.

Excellant Advice and David is Right On ...
When mixing any of Ed's Red Gun Cleaner , Gun Oil or CLP recipes ...
Don't use Synthetic ATF ... only conventional Dexron GM Spec ... I use the least expensive Wally Mart brand of ATF ( non-synthetic)
The 50-50 Acetone / ATF is a great penetrating oil and rust soaking agent .
Gary

[BLAHUT]

Automatic Transmation fluid ( type F has a cleaner in it ) or syntenic motor oil
Navy has used the Transmation fluid for protection of salt water