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Thread: ???? Small ring mauser questions

  1. #41
    Boolit Master
    toallmy's Avatar
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    I ordered a short chamber small ring replacement barrel from midway in 7x57 on December 26 it arrived this morning . Now I wish I had stripped the rifle down to soak the receiver in some some ATF / kerosene mix when I finally decided to take it apart . I am interested in what the receiver looks like inside , as members have explained potential lug problems to look for .
    I know this project is probably not a big deal for many members that have been changing barrels for generations + I'm cheating starting with a short chamber , but if I can do it safely anyone can .

  2. #42
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    OK, maybe I missed it, small ring mauser 7mm
    Is it a 93, or 95 or 98? Turk? Who and what
    Thanks
    Mike
    NRA Benefactor 2004 USAF RET 1971-95

  3. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by skeettx View Post
    OK, maybe I missed it, small ring mauser 7mm
    Is it a 93, or 95 or 98? Turk? Who and what
    Thanks
    Mike
    I'm not sure the receiver has been scrubbed , but it's not the Turkish lg ring with small thread .

  4. #44
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    Is it cock on closing or cock on opening?
    Can you post a picture of the rear of the bolt?
    also a picture of the front face of the bolt?
    Thank you
    Happy New Year

  5. #45
    Boolit Master
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    I believe it's cock on closing , but just because it seams to be spring loaded the last 1/4 inch or so when closing the bolt . I'm going to try posting some clear photos .

  6. #46
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    Look inside the ring......can you clearly see the whole rear of the barrel?..if so its not a 98..............in a 98 there is a partition that the barrel seats on.

  7. #47
    Boolit Master Hannibal's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by toallmy View Post
    I believe it's cock on closing , but just because it seams to be spring loaded the last 1/4 inch or so when closing the bolt . I'm going to try posting some clear photos .
    Observe the cocking piece. If it moves rearward upon lifting the bolt handle, it's a cock on open. If the cocking piece remains stationary until lowering the bolt handle, it's a cock on close. If you aren't sure what the cocking piece is, a quick Google search should be quite helpful.

  8. #48
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Prior to trying to remove a Mauser barrel I soak the receiver in a plastic container from the isotope lead and fill with paint thinner, which is mineral spirits. Leave it about a week and it does make it much easier to remove the barrel.
    I read your comments on the scope issues and think that you should check the drilling and tapping job on the top of the receiver. Make sure the holes are centered in the receiver and also do not go into the top locking lug area of the receiver for the bolt. Is the bolt handle bent down like a commercial sporter or like a military carbine? I ask because of the height of the scope mounts. It can be difficult to get a good cheek weld on the stock depending on how the gun fits you.

  9. #49
    Boolit Master
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    Because of the softness of old actions,be very careful not to crush the ring if the barrel is tight......you might also consider a relief cut,if the action is a pre 98.......an arbor should be fitted in the boltway,even if you use wrench blocks.

  10. #50
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    It’s surprising how many videos there are out, about professional gunsmiths redoing Remington receiver barrel fits. Is Remington really that bad or is it really that hard to get right?

  11. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by GregLaROCHE View Post
    It’s surprising how many videos there are out, about professional gunsmiths redoing Remington receiver barrel fits. Is Remington really that bad or is it really that hard to get right?
    Remington puts them on right. But people pay to have them "righter" for a real or perceived need for the nth degree of accuracy. Even the lowly m710/770 has a good accuracy reputation.

  12. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by john.k View Post
    Look inside the ring......can you clearly see the whole rear of the barrel?..if so its not a 98..............in a 98 there is a partition that the barrel seats on.
    It's definitely a small ring mauser , but I'm not sure 93-95 .

  13. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hannibal View Post
    Observe the cocking piece. If it moves rearward upon lifting the bolt handle, it's a cock on open. If the cocking piece remains stationary until lowering the bolt handle, it's a cock on close. If you aren't sure what the cocking piece is, a quick Google search should be quite helpful.
    I have the rifle stripped down to just a barrel in the receiver right now hanging in the basement with the chamber plugged and filled with a mix of ATF / Kerosene over the threaded section hopping to make it easier to remove the barrel without twisting the action , but I will keep trying to post pictures of the bolt .

  14. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by leadman View Post
    Prior to trying to remove a Mauser barrel I soak the receiver in a plastic container from the isotope lead and fill with paint thinner, which is mineral spirits. Leave it about a week and it does make it much easier to remove the barrel.
    I read your comments on the scope issues and think that you should check the drilling and tapping job on the top of the receiver. Make sure the holes are centered in the receiver and also do not go into the top locking lug area of the receiver for the bolt. Is the bolt handle bent down like a commercial sporter or like a military carbine? I ask because of the height of the scope mounts. It can be difficult to get a good cheek weld on the stock depending on how the gun fits you.
    I took a look the holes are not through the lug area in the receiver the forward most hole is in the threaded section I hope the barrel was removed before it was drilled and tapped .

  15. #55
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by john.k View Post
    Because of the softness of old actions,be very careful not to crush the ring if the barrel is tight......you might also consider a relief cut,if the action is a pre 98.......an arbor should be fitted in the boltway,even if you use wrench blocks.
    This really concerns me - the twisting of the receiver . If it seems to not want to let go I will have a friend do a relief cut in front of the receiver on his lathe , but I'm going to try removing the barrel with the action wrench and home made barrel vice first . But right now I just have the receiver soaking , hopefully to saturate the threaded section with a lubricant .

  16. #56
    Boolit Master
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    Gentlemen I really appreciate all your help and advice alone the way . I apologize for my lack in ability to post pictures .

  17. #57
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    Maybe a good penetrating oil would work better. Let it sit for a week. If you’re not keeping the barrel. Think about cutting it off, leaving enough to hold on to and putting it in a basin of penetrating oil. You need to buy a gallon of penetrating oil in bulk. Not spray cans.
    Last edited by GregLaROCHE; 12-29-2018 at 01:56 PM.

  18. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by Texas by God View Post
    Remington puts them on right. But people pay to have them "righter" for a real or perceived need for the nth degree of accuracy. Even the lowly m710/770 has a good accuracy reputation.
    I was thinking that could be why.

  19. #59
    Boolit Master
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    Photos of bolt and receiver .Attachment 232907Attachment 232907

  20. #60
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    Not quite but I'll get the picture thing worked out .Attachment 232908
    Last edited by toallmy; 12-29-2018 at 02:29 PM.

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BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
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