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Thread: PID Pictures

  1. #41
    Boolit Buddy
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  2. #42
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    HATCH's Avatar
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    what are those two rectangle boxes on the bottom left of your 1st picture?
    are those terminal strips?

    btw - love the probe mount
    Don't like being hammered by the Cast Boolits Staff, then don't be a nail.
    The rules are simple to follow.

  3. #43
    Boolit Buddy fralic76's Avatar
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    Here is a dual PID that I built for my melting pot and hot plate.

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  4. #44
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    PID Pictures

    Yes, those are terminal strips. One for Line, the other for Neutral. It was getting a bit crowded in my little enclosure so to free up some space, I fab’ed an aluminum L bracket so they could mount on their sides.


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  5. #45
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    Nice Fralic. What are the one amp fuses used for?


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  6. #46
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    HATCH's Avatar
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    I know it most likely doesn't matter, but i was taught the line goes in on term 1 and load on term 2.
    The SSR's I have don't specify but the ones I had back in the early 2000's did.

    His fuses.

    Each PID has a 1 amp fuse
    Each Output has a 10 amp fuse
    Don't like being hammered by the Cast Boolits Staff, then don't be a nail.
    The rules are simple to follow.

  7. #47
    Boolit Buddy fralic76's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by razorfish View Post
    Nice Fralic. What are the one amp fuses used for?


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    The 1 amp is for the pid and the 10 amp is the main fuse before the switch.

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  8. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by HATCH View Post
    I know it most likely doesn't matter, but i was taught the line goes in on term 1 and load on term 2.
    The SSR's I have don't specify but the ones I had back in the early 2000's did.

    His fuses.

    Each PID has a 1 amp fuse
    Each Output has a 10 amp fuse
    Ah. I didn’t think about fusing the PID. I would think you would need a much smaller fuse to protect it.


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  9. #49
    Boolit Grand Master In Remembrance
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    It's pretty hard to find fuses under 1 Amp unless you get fancy or don't mind paying a lot; A PID that goes south would likely blow a 1A fuse pretty fast. (Or the PID will explode, thus saving the expensive fuse from being blown.) You could use a polyswitch (acts as a self-resetting breaker, though a disabled friend, Roy, had some excitement when his 3d printer's control board had one go up in flames, setting everything on fire in the wiring harness of his 3d printer. He was a smart guy & had a couple electronics type fire extinguishers on hand fortunately.)

    You can find electronics parts if you want other parts at findchips.com or just look at Digikey, Mouser, Element 14 / Newark, or oh so many others (but in the US those are the big 3 really.)

    And safety tip - I would suggest a fire extinguisher on your reloading bench, PLEASE; Maybe one for electrical fires, like Roy had, plus a regular Dry Chem one, just because fires suck, near reloading components or human beings!

  10. #50
    Boolit Master Cast10's Avatar
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    PID Unit for Lee Pro 4 - 20 or whatever

    Used a larger box for easier build access. Front panel comes off so made it super easy to add components.



    https://imgur.com/a/wdGOtA1

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check