MFH is finished

[beagle]

Well fellers, the MFH is finished. Last night I put the finishing touches on the HP attachement.

The first pic is of the full assembly. I solved the problem of a variable length HP cavity by making an adjustable sleeve. This screws up and down the adjustable nose punch and varies cavity depth. So, I'm able to vary length of nose as well as length of cavity and lock them in with setscrews. An L shaped notch in the top of the hex sleeve retains the cavity pin during testing.

The second pic is of the finished product. At left are two .35 Rems. One loaded with a 254 grain solid and one with a 240 grain HP. The two bullets below/center are a 313 grain HP and a 240 grain HP. Don't know as I can use a 313 grain .35 HP but I can make one.

It was a fun project./beagle

[SharpsShooter]

Now that is a serious 35 Rem. boolit. Looks like a nice job too.

[drinks]

Beagle;
Veeeryy interesting!
I have an idea that long one would do 2000fps or more in a .35 Whelen, plain or A.I., should also do a lower and upper G.I., plus a tonsolictemy and lobotomy on anything at least up to a cape buf or rhino.
What mold did you start with?
I would be tempted to try that, but Lee does not make a .35 and I am too cheap to buy one of the other brands to possibly destroy.

[beagle]

I started with a DC Lyman 358315. Nose was small and it dropped bullets right at .358". It now has the bands opened to .361" and a .3495" nose. Didn't shoot worth squat in the .35 REm when I started. NOw, it shoots better./beagle

Beagle;
Veeeryy interesting!
I have an idea that long one would do 2000fps or more in a .35 Whelen, plain or A.I., should also do a lower and upper G.I., plus a tonsolictemy and lobotomy on anything at least up to a cape buf or rhino.
What mold did you start with?
I would be tempted to try that, but Lee does not make a .35 and I am too cheap to buy one of the other brands to possibly destroy.

[Frank46]

Beagle, methinks you have found the big rock your quote speaks of. Nice work. Do you have any problems keeping the hollow point pin hot enough so's you get good castings.
Just curious as I have sometimes heard complaints regarding keeping the pin hot enough. Frank

[beagle]

Frank... I was surprised when I started using this rig. Probably due to the fact that we removed so much metal to bore through the nose, the mould actually casts hotter than a normal mould does. Probably because there's not sufficient metal to dissipate the heat. In fact, I have to slow down things when I finally get the mould up to good casting temperature.

Because of this characteristic, I have experienced no problems with the pin not being hot enough. That's true even if I'm casting with only one cavity of the mould.

I've actually never had any problems with keeping the pin temp up on any of my HP moulds. I once had a old Foster type 12 guage mould and it did require initial heating on the base plug to get slugs dropping right./beagle

Beagle, methinks you have found the big rock your quote speaks of. Nice work. Do you have any problems keeping the hollow point pin hot enough so's you get good castings.
Just curious as I have sometimes heard complaints regarding keeping the pin hot enough. Frank

[1Shirt]

Beagle! In a word, IMPRESSIVE!
1sHIRT

[35remington]

Beagle, have you tried that big honker for stabilization in a 1-16 yet? How does it do? How about the lighter one? Minimum velocity needed?