Making that Bullet Collator

[rogerandre]

I've been where you are, and it's very frustrating. Try a good alcohol wipe on your PEI plate. I've never printed this part because I don't process bullets, so I decided to get some first hand experience. Printing as I post (and found out I assumed wrong about hook support....there is no support for the hook since it sits on the plate).....but I have got past the hook already and no problems at all using no supports no raft and no brim, just a skirt to help me set initial Z height.....which I do every time looking for the perfect slight flat on top of the first layer.

Here's a video to show you how it worked on my Creality CR10v2 machine, using Overture PLA Professional black, using a .12 layer height zero support on my polyp bed....temp. 215C , 65C on the bed. No Z hop.....doesn't work well with either my slicer or printer. Fill is set to 18 percent. I stopped the video to show you, but the print is still going for another 2 hours.

I don't expect you to sit and watch the video....boring....but you can use your cursor and slide through the video quickly to see how it worked, with no raft or support.



The more I think about this, the more I think bed leveling may be your problem. So that the nozzle hits the print....it don't take much at .12mm layer height to give you a bad day.

I bought TH3D's EZabl 2 system that uses a prox sensor to level and it has been simple & wonderful.

Print is done......not bad....


Minimal cleanup to do..... notice above how one can "baby step" the Z while printing the skirt, until it's a little flat on top?
Because I have TH3D's software that came with the leveler...I just click Creality's control button twice quick and it automatically goes into "babystepping Z" mode and I can turn the knob and the nozzle goes up and down ever so slightly until you get the flat top you want. Then click once and you are back to the main screen.


Somebody is bound to ask where TylerR, I and others purchased the Polyp beds:

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Mamorubot&ref=bl_dp_s_web_0

I should explain why babystepping.....my first layer height is set as is yours by the slicer software. But the problem is, that media differs.....Overture Professional lays down different from Zyltec PLA, for example, even Zyltec PLA and Zyltec PLA composite, like their "Satin" colors differ. Not much different, but enough that causes the first layer to vary. Then there is imperfections in the printers....where EXACT height can vary a little.....I mean how thick is .012mm!? can a printer vary a hundredth or two from print to print? In my experience, yes it can.....so to start from an even playing field, (printing field), I babystep Z height at the beginning of each print....to make sure the setting for the first layer is where I want it. Perfect first layer often means a perfect print, unless the nozzle is worn, or the media tubing is gunked up.

Huge thanks for fantastic feedback.
My bet is also on that the nozzle (and/or gunk) hits the print). Thing is that I have never seen this before. There is a first for everything. Will continue to experiment.
Once again thanks !

[GWS]

You are welcome, and triple check bed leveling. These printers are addicting and highly worthwhile........when they are working right.

If you don't already, always keep a new feed tube and nozzle handy. I'm reminded of the time I got in a hurry and clipped "dry" media from the bottom of the nozzle with the mini diagonal cutter. I got the nozzle tip just a tad, did not notice and ruined it......what a mess....it fed media in blobs! We are often our worst enemy. Live and learn. I've done about every thing wrong more than once.

[Gillie Dog]

The more I think about this, the more I think bed leveling may be your problem. So that the nozzle hits the print....it don't take much at .12mm layer height to give you a bad day.

My thought also, nozzle hitting print, so suggested ZHop, I use it all the time with no issue doing large flat prints, eliminates lines on surface of large flat surfaces like collator plates and slide plates.

This is a weird one. The bottom of the cone extending out to the hook on his is not printing well as it comes off the body also like photo in post #6647. And that photo shows brim pulled up when print was hit by nozzle, it looks like. There is something going on I do not understand.

I assume .12mm layer height, .4 mm nozzle, 210C or better with PLA, 60C bed with PLA. And yes, the poly bed is an advantage over the glass my printer came with also. I found adjusting z offset baby steps is required each print even if pre-heating the bed 30 minutes each print before homing and auto bed level.

GD

[GWS]

Yeah, I love the idea of ZHop, mine just doesn't do it well.....haven't figured out whether it's the printer software, or the slicer.....or the user.....probably the latter.

[Gillie Dog]

My bet is also on that the nozzle (and/or gunk) hits the print). Thing is that I have never seen this before. There is a first for everything.

So just guessing here, what about the gantry not level with the bed/frame?

Bed level should take care of it if it is consistent throughout travel, but ?????????

My OCD made me tie both Z lead screws together with a belt which made gantry dead level at all times in the complete travel. (My machines Z motors are not electronically synced)

GD

[GWS]

Someone was wondering what the above part I just printed was for.....For quick changing cast boolit sizing on a Lee APP....best described by TylerR's own video. The part I printed above was the .40 s&w size......the video shows him sizing two calibers so two slides were used. Which two calibers I don't know. Works pretty slick!





TylerR if you'd prefer me to erase this video, message me. Not wanting to step on toes. Pretty quiet on here this weekend. If it keeps up I may retire.... Funny thing is.....I AM trying to retire from business....getting bored.....thought I'd be celebrating.....

[TylerR]

Someone was wondering what the above part I just printed was for.....For quick changing cast boolit sizing on a Lee APP....best described by TylerR's own video. The part I printed above was the .40 s&w size......the video shows him sizing two calibers so two slides were used. Which two calibers I don't know. Works pretty slick!

TylerR if you'd prefer me to erase this video, message me. Not wanting to step on toes. Pretty quiet on here this weekend. If it keeps up I may retire.... Funny thing is.....I AM trying to retire from business....getting bored.....thought I'd be celebrating.....

No need to remove GWS. Now go celebrate retirement!

[Silverbullit]

Oh my friends..... my printer is spitting out these;

[GWS]

Need more info. What media, what temperatures on the bed and the nozzle, what bed, what leveling system. I finally stopped getting that sort of thing with PLA, when I bought a polypropylene bed, set temperatures to 65C/215C, babystepped every first layer, and bought TH3D's bed leveling system for my CR10 V2.

Are those AmmoMike collator bases? They look that small....

[MSUICEMAN]

Oh my friends..... my printer is spitting out these;

For times sake... I'd probably fill that with JB weld, sand flush, prime and paint. Just be done with it.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

[Silverbullit]

It is PetG and it is the files that collects in a .zip when you use the "Parts Generator.jar".
So it should not be AmmoMikes bases but the ones from the Parts Generator.jar?
Weird is that I first printed it out before I noticed the infill/wall count advice, and this turned out good.
Now I added the recommended wall and infill and voila... I have them buttcracks in the main bodies. Hmmm

Theres a lot of updates and stuff that comes with the ghost of the infernal bugs, and I dont know if this played a role in this enigma?

I simply changed the filament type from generic petg to brand petg with the exact same settings all the way through both subsettings/advanced settings and the settings of the filament brands literally cloned with the slight difference of the naming... and I got another o.k. print right now?!?

Is that split pherhaps something that lies dormant in the .stl files?
Rather curious at what might be going on here? *scratching my bald head*

Oh and Sweden here, I dunno what JB weld is, it is some kind of epoxy maybe?

[TylerR]

It is PetG and it is the files that collects in a .zip when you use the "Parts Generator.jar".
So it should not be AmmoMikes bases but the ones from the Parts Generator.jar?
Weird is that I first printed it out before I noticed the infill/wall count advice, and this turned out good.
Now I added the recommended wall and infill and voila... I have them buttcracks in the main bodies. Hmmm

Theres a lot of updates and stuff that comes with the ghost of the infernal bugs, and I dont know if this played a role in this enigma?

I simply changed the filament type from generic petg to brand petg with the exact same settings all the way through both subsettings/advanced settings and the settings of the filament brands literally cloned with the slight difference of the naming... and I got another o.k. print right now?!?

Is that split pherhaps something that lies dormant in the .stl files?
Rather curious at what might be going on here? *scratching my bald head*

Oh and Sweden here, I dunno what JB weld is, it is some kind of epoxy maybe?

Definitely not that.

PETG is finicky. Could have to do with the change of filament brands. For this project I go with PLA+ exclusively.

ETA: Yes JB weld is an epoxy. Original formula was for gluing metal, but it works very well on just about anything.
https://www.amazon.com/KwikWeld-Minu...1zcF9hdGY&th=1

[TylerR]

Need more info. What media, what temperatures on the bed and the nozzle, what bed, what leveling system. I finally stopped getting that sort of thing with PLA, when I bought a polypropylene bed, set temperatures to 65C/215C, babystepped every first layer, and bought TH3D's bed leveling system for my CR10 V2.

Are those AmmoMike collator bases? They look that small....

They are definitely mine. Can tell just from the holes.

[GWS]

Then he's a big Swede with big hands, maybe!

JB Weld is good stuff but it's dark grey/black. My choice would be a white epoxy putty so I can mix just a little yellow water-based paint in it to match closer. I have never used Petg. And won't unless I need to make something that gets sun and/or has to handle more heat. PLA is so much easier to print with, say those who have used both, and it is the stuff the specs of this project was made for.

[Silverbullit]

Haha, well not really mate.
My boss tells me (boss as in g/f) that I have the strength of 10 hamsters..... and that I'm also hung like one!
*women*

I started off with PetG and mostly it has printed usable prints.
Came as an recommendations since, like you put it, it is supposed to have better strength, chemical & uv resistance?

I amazoned the english website and found a dual syringe set with JB Weld for further adventures!

[GWS]

Just looking at those pictures again, I can't understand why or how that even happens.......no matter what type of media.

When did you notice the cracks.....after it printed or during?......and if during, how far up was the current printing layer above it, when it warped and split?

It's one thing to patch it.....fine and good....but would be nice to know how to prevent it. Anyone have any ideas on the why?

[Silverbullit]

Everything else printed pretty amazing in PetG,
well until I tried printing the Bullet Feed Dies...



Heres samples, ALL are different settings (starting from the recommended from UserManual.pdf) and different brands of PetG manufacturers (StrongHold, eSun, 3D-Fils, R3D, AzureFilm, asf all transparent red are StrongHold's PetG since that is the one that printed flawlessly until right now.) oh, and there are a lot more where these came from but they all look the same.
I tried rolling back the softwares and firmwares to 3 other versions that also worked previously, no differences so I am updating the whole she-bang after I finished reloading .38's for tomorrows cup match in PPC... *sigh so much I wanna do, so little time... of course doesn't help I'm a lazy fatarse either...*

The 9mm feeder die prints good if the spaghetti monster does not devour it, the trouble is with the 45acp bullet feeder die of whom all failed prints are.

Any thoughts from you gurus and masters of the mind that I greatly look up to would be utmost appreciated!


Do you all print the dies with PLA?
I have ordered one of those suspicious looking PLA+ rolls while waiting your feedback on this one... hmm just strikes me that I might have one or two small samples of PLA with the printer... like 2 x times 0,10kg or something'ish like that?!?
(Orange and hmm I have some vague memory pictures of Orange and one more color... also got another sample with something saying xxxx-cf after but the roll was smashed by the postal "service's" and the wrapper looked like a porcupine gangbang rubber, our swedish post officials can sure wreckabagged goods... As my understanding is "cf" is highly hygroscopic and wont print due to water damage if wrapper cracked in the open so I cant use it after postofficials went postal on the delivery right?)

Anyhows I followed all recommendations and I tried different extrusions ranging from 0,20 0,16, 0,12 0,08 and different infills/walls/speeds but they all come out with that same failure...
I'm really curious how you managed to make yours mint print mates?!?

Oh and yes, should take the opportunity to ask while on the Bullet Feeding Dies. What is the .stl called for the "nut" to the BulletFeederDie's? (It does not show up in the directories put together using the wonderful .jar)

Have a wonderful weekend mates and may the force be with you,
/Silverbullit epic level nooob

[TylerR]

Everything else printed pretty amazing in PetG,
well until I tried printing the Bullet Feed Dies...



Heres samples, ALL are different settings (starting from the recommended from UserManual.pdf) and different brands of PetG manufacturers (StrongHold, eSun, 3D-Fils, R3D, AzureFilm, asf all transparent red are StrongHold's PetG since that is the one that printed flawlessly until right now.) oh, and there are a lot more where these came from but they all look the same.
I tried rolling back the softwares and firmwares to 3 other versions that also worked previously, no differences so I am updating the whole she-bang after I finished reloading .38's for tomorrows cup match in PPC... *sigh so much I wanna do, so little time... of course doesn't help I'm a lazy fatarse either...*

The 9mm feeder die prints good if the spaghetti monster does not devour it, the trouble is with the 45acp bullet feeder die of whom all failed prints are.

Any thoughts from you gurus and masters of the mind that I greatly look up to would be utmost appreciated!


Do you all print the dies with PLA?
I have ordered one of those suspicious looking PLA+ rolls while waiting your feedback on this one... hmm just strikes me that I might have one or two small samples of PLA with the printer... like 2 x times 0,10kg or something'ish like that?!?
(Orange and hmm I have some vague memory pictures of Orange and one more color... also got another sample with something saying xxxx-cf after but the roll was smashed by the postal "service's" and the wrapper looked like a porcupine gangbang rubber, our swedish post officials can sure wreckabagged goods... As my understanding is "cf" is highly hygroscopic and wont print due to water damage if wrapper cracked in the open so I cant use it after postofficials went postal on the delivery right?)

Anyhows I followed all recommendations and I tried different extrusions ranging from 0,20 0,16, 0,12 0,08 and different infills/walls/speeds but they all come out with that same failure...
I'm really curious how you managed to make yours mint print mates?!?

Oh and yes, should take the opportunity to ask while on the Bullet Feeding Dies. What is the .stl called for the "nut" to the BulletFeederDie's? (It does not show up in the directories put together using the wonderful .jar)

Have a wonderful weekend mates and may the force be with you,
/Silverbullit epic level nooob

If you are having trouble especially with the .45 die, it tells me that your slicer is eliminating thin walls. We have seen this issue before. I can't tell you for sure which setting in your slicer that needs to be changed, but that is one of the issues.

The lock ring is in the bullet feed dies folder in the download.
https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob.../Lock_Ring.stl

[GWS]

That's probably it......heck I did not even know what the thin wall settings were for! Good thing TylerR did. Hang in there, it gets better......took me a while to get past the worst frustrations.....always seemed to find another every time I got past the last one for a time.

BTW Silverbullit, what printer and slicer do you use?

[Silverbullit]

Yo mate,
I have one of them X1's that BambuLab makes and I use their software a.i. their default slicer software.

I am trying to find settings related to thin wall settings,
I tried unchecking both the below pair,
"Detect Narrow Solid Infill"
"Assure Vertical Wall Thickness"

And the print turned out even worse *sigh* literally fell apart in two pieces when I carefully lifted out the build plate.

I checked the "advanced" box to get up all choices in each tab, also went in to the tabs of the particular filament choice/nozzle override settings but I find nothing there neither :/
Thanks for trying mates