Making that Bullet Collator

[TylerR]

My current feeder motor is that one. I guess I was looking for something with a bit more power.

something might be up with that motor. I have run 1000 9mm in the 300mm collator with that motor. The other option is the original. https://www.grainger.com/product/DAY...Optimized=true

[bubbadoyle]

Should mention basically brand new to 3D printing, I got 30'ish rolls of different brand filaments and am trying them all out and eSUN rocks! (Great choice there mate!) Measurementwise I have A LOT better tolerances with PetG (same with the PctG I tried so far) proving to have much less shrinkage and seemingly equal in strength to PLA+ (actually slightly better in strength, also better properties regarding heat resistance, uv, chemicals asf) So if you have the possibility to print PetG it might be a grand idea to try out a roll and check out if the benefits helps out. It sure gives me much better tolerances, one thing I'm trying out is making 100mm cubes and they come out 99,76mm x 99,76mm x 99,76mm, that is no fiddling with settings at all with eSUN solid red & solid blue (looks more like Orange & Dark Marineblue in my eyes tho)
I tried a handful of sky blue/light blue brands PetG since eSUN does not have any light blue options that comes close to Dillonpress-blue. They all have one thing in common, they are sheit compared to eSUN PetG! Much much weaker, stringing, clogging and just a nightmare. Just cleaned clogs in the Nozzle/Extruder and the AMS *phew* literally stayed up most of the night because I get totally in to crepe when I do stuff :0
Anyways mate, with my humble findings I think it might be advantageous for your dilemma to check out eSUN's PetG. (Not their transparent stuff tho, go with the Solids)
Hope that is of some help...

(PS. If youre Swedish or the Northern frozen over bungholio as yours truly, just notice Elefun has surprisingly nice price on the eSUN PetG right now 215Sek (like 20 bucks) so I'm ordering 15-20 more rolls today since I plan on dragging my shooting mates in to TyleR and JsSeth's wonderfully amazingly hypnotizing projects! )

I have at least four roll of esun petg. I had great results with the first roll. I have one roll that once I got 3/4 of the way through it, it was like it was glued together and very brittle. Couldn’t print ten minutes without it breaking the filament. I have a spool of red that worked great and once again, when I was 3/4 of the way through it I ran into thick and thin spots. The thick blobs caused it to jam up and stop. I’m still looking for a good quality petg as I definitely like it’s properties over pla for many prints. I eventually plan to get an enclosure so I can print ASA and ABS as well.


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[GWS]

Same Dayton Motor $10 cheaper here: https://www.zoro.com/dayton-dc-gearm...commended=true

Grainger has become a price gouger. That motor is all I use now....but not as cheap as the one you have.

[M500]

This one is even cheaper.

https://www.zoro.com/molon-dc-gearmo.../i/G100461364/

A list of molon motors;

https://molon.com/dc-motors-gearmoto.../chm-dc-detail

[Dosch]

I figured out why my prints came out oval.
My X gantry was not perpendicular to the frame.

[GWS]

Dosch......I wondered about that but I didn't know enough to even address it. Now I remember Creality warned me to check the gantry and use a square and tighten the bolts once square......I had forgotten about that.

As for the Motor questions.....45acp from Sweden talked me into modifying the "normal" and "300" versions of Tyler's collator bases. Reason was he had a hard time getting the usual choices in Sweden, but he found the one in the link below, and so I modified the bases to fit it.

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/22518...andl_shipto=US

Looks well built, and the price is $24 before shipping to start with....so that might be another option.....the 10rpm one would be my choice.

Here's the modified .stls:775 Motor Bases_Normal_300 Size.zip If it works out TylerR might could add those two files to the list.

[JStuhlmiller]

I have at least four roll of esun petg. I had great results with the first roll. I have one roll that once I got 3/4 of the way through it, it was like it was glued together and very brittle. Couldn’t print ten minutes without it breaking the filament. I have a spool of red that worked great and once again, when I was 3/4 of the way through it I ran into thick and thin spots. The thick blobs caused it to jam up and stop. I’m still looking for a good quality petg as I definitely like it’s properties over pla for many prints. I eventually plan to get an enclosure so I can print ASA and ABS as well.


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when that happens its wet. Use a filament dryer and it will be good as new.

[JStuhlmiller]

I am getting occasional upside down 9mm 115gn bullets any advice? Thanks.

[Sig]

I am getting occasional upside down 9mm 115gn bullets any advice? Thanks.

I would try tilting the hopper back a little more.

[bubbadoyle]

when that happens its wet. Use a filament dryer and it will be good as new.

I did dry these and had the same issues.


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[DestructionDan]

Before I order the spring, I wanted to make sure this would work for the parts.
McMaster Item # 9664K26 OD 0.563" Wire Diameter 0.063" for the 14.5/12 adapter 9mm bullets.
Thanks

[azlester]

I have at least four roll of esun petg. I had great results with the first roll. I have one roll that once I got 3/4 of the way through it, it was like it was glued together and very brittle. Couldn’t print ten minutes without it breaking the filament. I have a spool of red that worked great and once again, when I was 3/4 of the way through it I ran into thick and thin spots. The thick blobs caused it to jam up and stop. I’m still looking for a good quality petg as I definitely like it’s properties over pla for many prints. I eventually plan to get an enclosure so I can print ASA and ABS as well.


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A lot of people are raving about the PETG that this company is putting out... zero complaints about any of the filament.. https://californiafilament.com/

[JStuhlmiller]

I did dry these and had the same issues.


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I have found that on some filaments I actually have to dry it for 2.5 days. Although I have gotten terrible filament that no matter what I tried it still was terrible. I switched to another brand, dried it and voila. If its RH is ~15% then maybe time to try another brand.

[JStuhlmiller]

Anyone else use the photosensor drop tubes with DAA bullet feeder dies? the knobs fit great but the center hole is a tad small and the bottom hole to fit the DAA die is way small?

[GWS]

Before I order the spring, I wanted to make sure this would work for the parts.
McMaster Item # 9664K26 OD 0.563" Wire Diameter 0.063" for the 14.5/12 adapter 9mm bullets.
Thanks

Look at page 12 in the manual.....14.5mm = .571 inches...You don't want the spring OD more than that....it appears your .563 complies. Yet ID, by subtracting the wire diameter twice (both sides) gives .563 - .126 = .437 is bigger than 9mm/.354. or 10mm/.394 but not .45 (11.43mm)

So it appears your choice of wire diameter will not work for .45. Just so you know. Maybe there is a smaller wire size available?.....or maybe you're fine with and expecting to use another bigger adapter and spring for .45.

.063 wire size is really heavy and stiff.....way stiffer than anything used by DAA or Hornady. I know....I ordered that wiresize for .223......works and bullets sure can't deflect it....at all! But obviously, ID compared to OD is a bigger difference.

[Corbindallas]

Hi
I have been reading this thread off and on for a while but finally decided that I will give it a try and make me a brass and bullet feeder to help me make it more fun.
I already have a 3D printer (Prusa Mk3s) and a Dillon 750.
Having read the manual, and looked at the parts generator thingie, I still have a couple of questions.
What would be the easiest way to install these onto the press? I’m thinking some kind of round tubing that fits into the original tube on the 750.
I’m reloading mainly 38/357 caliber, but did not find that option in the partsgenerator. Will 9 mm work?
As I’m in the EU, I saw a recommendation for a 634js motor at Amazon, will that have anything to do with what choice I need to make for the coupler (hex or cross-shaft)?
Big thanks to all that has made this possible, very cool!
Thanks

[GWS]

Hi
I have been reading this thread off and on for a while but finally decided that I will give it a try and make me a brass and bullet feeder to help me make it more fun.
I already have a 3D printer (Prusa Mk3s) and a Dillon 750.
Having read the manual, and looked at the parts generator thingie, I still have a couple of questions.
What would be the easiest way to install these onto the press? I’m thinking some kind of round tubing that fits into the original tube on the 750.
I’m reloading mainly 38/357 caliber, but did not find that option in the partsgenerator. Will 9 mm work?
As I’m in the EU, I saw a recommendation for a 634js motor at Amazon, will that have anything to do with what choice I need to make for the coupler (hex or cross-shaft)?
Big thanks to all that has made this possible, very cool!
Thanks

TylerR and others who have blue presses can best answer the first question, so wait for them. But as for 38/357 caliber collator plates for bullets, print the "small pistol" one. For the long cases the large pistol CASE collator plate works better in my experience, since the big holes give the cases a fraction longer to fall and not get hung by the turning plate. Obviously longer cases require more time to fall so you may even need to slow down your collator rotation speed compared to shorter cases, and I'd set the plate height to print taller in the "Z"direction than normal to better stabilize the tall cases.

So you don't have a Dillon Case Collator?

Another motor that fits the 50X50 mm square mount bases I posted in a previous video above. Notice the interesting Motor speed video (bottom left of picture)..... https://www.amazon.com/DC12V-Motor-A...071XCWM2J?th=1

The 10 rpm one....top second to the left.

[Corbindallas]

and I'd set the plate height to print taller in the "Z"direction than normal to better stabilize the tall cases.

Thanks
What does this mean? I need to print the plate higher?

So you don't have a Dillon Case Collator?

No, when buying the 750 I already had the idea to either buy one from Dillon or print my own. Took me a while to decide though.
Reading and seeing all the info here made me want to try to make one myself.

[r4ndy]

Hi
I have been reading this thread off and on for a while but finally decided that I will give it a try and make me a brass and bullet feeder to help me make it more fun.
I already have a 3D printer (Prusa Mk3s) and a Dillon 750.
Having read the manual, and looked at the parts generator thingie, I still have a couple of questions.
What would be the easiest way to install these onto the press? I’m thinking some kind of round tubing that fits into the original tube on the 750.
I’m reloading mainly 38/357 caliber, but did not find that option in the partsgenerator. Will 9 mm work?
As I’m in the EU, I saw a recommendation for a 634js motor at Amazon, will that have anything to do with what choice I need to make for the coupler (hex or cross-shaft)?
Big thanks to all that has made this possible, very cool!
Thanks

In the contributors section of the files see <edited> KC10 Kevin Dillon Mount

There are files to connect a square tube to the post on the Dillon. Works awesome! Please ignore my bad cable dressing.

[JStuhlmiller]

In the contributors section of the files see Tander’s Dillon…

There are files to connect a 1” square tube to the post on the Dillon. Works awesome! Please ignore my bad cable dressing.

r4ndy,

Great setup. I see you are using the photosensor did you have an issue getting the bullet feeder die to sit on the DAA feeder die? Mine doesn't fit.