Making that Bullet Collator

[tt365]

OK, tried a search and ya.... So I am using a lee bullet feeder(don't judge, lol) and i want to attach the switch tube(A1) to the top of it. Is one of the adapter tubes already set for this? So far this project is going great.

I suspect the switch drop tube is the same as the proximity version on the bottom. I use the APP tube adapter (APP_Drop_Tube_X_Adapter) 3/4 fits the large clear tubes that come with the Lee feeders. The other side fits the bottom of the drop tubes. I imagine the small tubes will fit one of the other sizes, but I haven't tried it. So I just cut about 2" off the end of one and used it as an adapter between the drop tube and the APP case feeder tubes. I'm using it on the case side, but looking at the bullet feeder parts, I think it would work the same way.

[rsltid13]

I haven't had any issues printing any of the parts but I can't for the life of me get the 223 insert to complete a print, closest I've come is half way, but it always ends up falling over usually within the first inch. I've tried all of the adhesion options and had better success with a raft but never been able to make it through after 6 or so prints, even tried flipping it upside down to see if that printed better but no luck. Any tips. Printing on an Ender 3 S1 Pro, with Hatchbox Pla.

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

[tt365]

I haven't had any issues printing any of the parts but I can't for the life of me get the 223 insert to complete a print, closest I've come is half way, but it always ends up falling over usually within the first inch. I've tried all of the adhesion options and had better success with a raft but never been able to make it through after 6 or so prints, even tried flipping it upside down to see if that printed better but no luck. Any tips. Printing on an Ender 3 S1 Pro, with Hatchbox Pla.

If you haven't done it yet, calibrate the printer. One good place to start is here: https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html

Within an inch would be pretty fast. How does the first layer look when you look at the bottom of the part? There isn't a lot of material touching the bed, so it can be tricky.

If you can see the lines on the bottom layer, try lowering your Z-offset a little. It looks like the Pro might come with the textured PEI plate, which hides the lines but can be tricky to set the offset on as a result. Drop it down by 0.1mm max at a time, and watch the first layer carefully to ensure the nozzle doesn't drag. One trick is to print a skirt and cancel. Then measure the thickness of the skirt with calipers or a micrometer. It should be the first layer height. If not, adjust until it is.

Try increasing the first layer height. I find 0.3mm works well for me on an S1 plus.

Add a large brim, 10mm or so. First layer only should do fine.

I haven't tried hatchbox, but don't be afraid to tinker with temperature. Perhaps increase bed temp a little. I usually run PLA at about 60C.

The fact that you had a problem even with a raft makes me suspect Z-offset.

[rsltid13]

Thanks for the advice, I'll play around with it some more and see if I can figure it out. I went through all the calibrations and haven't had any other issues, but I'll try your suggestions and see if I have better luck

[kc10kevin]

Did my due diligence and searched the thread for the answer. Really didn't find it. Before I go and spend a bunch of time printing bullet and slide plate, hoping someone can save me some time. I see that #11 bullet plate is recommended for 300BO bullets, but reading up, it appears its more for long bullets. I'm going to be loading mostly 110, 125 and 150 grain supers which are much shorter. Will the #11 work or is there a better plate/slide plate that works better for them. Starting with 150gn Hornady BT (See pic).

Thanks in advance for your time.

[GWS]

I tried these four for .308 and they all worked great in the #11. I really like that plate.

Attachment 307499

[kc10kevin]

I tried these four for .308 and they all worked great in the #11. I really like that plate.

Awesome! Thanks for the info. I'll print up the plate and give it a whirl.

[ranger391xt]

I haven't had any issues printing any of the parts but I can't for the life of me get the 223 insert to complete a print, closest I've come is half way, but it always ends up falling over usually within the first inch. I've tried all of the adhesion options and had better success with a raft but never been able to make it through after 6 or so prints, even tried flipping it upside down to see if that printed better but no luck. Any tips. Printing on an Ender 3 S1 Pro, with Hatchbox Pla.

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

I mistakenly got roll of hatchbox PPLA, thinking it was PLA, and fought with adhesion issues. I thought was like most other PLA+ or ProPLA from other manufacturers, but it was vastly different. Turns out you have to print that stuff on painters tape with no bed heat at all.

So just to double check you are using the Hatchbox PLA that comes in the white box with the green bar bar across the lid?

Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk

[GWS]

I just printed a 223 insert today to see if I'd have any trouble.....nope.

I printed with a polypropylene bed set at 65 C with green satin Zyltec PLA at 215 C. using .120mm layer height and only a skirt on the bed.



Polypropylene is wonderful for a 3D printer bed....no brims no rafts no glue no tape.....just good prints. When it cools the parts come loose just fine and not before unless you want to knock it hard at the bottom with a chisel.

[tt365]

Hmm... I missed that #11 collator plate. I used the large rifle #4 with with the #11 slider plate and it worked well for 308, but it looks like that long #11 might be an improvement, guess I need to print one up and try it.

That feed insert with no brim is making me want to try that bed. Because I haven't messed with my setup enough yet.

[GWS]

I got the rest of it printed today.....I no longer try to print the shell and insert together....I get MUCH better prints when the printhead isn't dragging filament from one to the other.


A final touch-up with white paint marker and paint thinner, add the ball bearings and springs and Lee die nut.....

[kc10kevin]

Hmm... I missed that #11 collator plate. I used the large rifle #4 with with the #11 slider plate and it worked well for 308, but it looks like that long #11 might be an improvement, guess I need to print one up and try it.

That feed insert with no brim is making me want to try that bed. Because I haven't messed with my setup enough yet.

Yep. Printed up the #11 plate and it works perfectly for the 150gn. Couldn't be happier.

[M500]

TylerR, I see that the speed controller link in the manual now links to a different style controller. Is this the controller you want to continue to recommend? Thanks

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[GWS]

TylerR hasn't answered yet....I don't know what he gravitated to, but I can tell you what I have gravitated to. I've used 2 of those little ones and one quit.....so 50% for me. So I went looking for a little more quality without too much cost increase.

Best way for you to have a look-see is to download a zip of mine in Tyler's download under "Contributors" And find my "contribution". (GWS)

Then unzip it on your computer and download the last 4 files including the Word file at the bottom which contains links to my Amazon sources of electronics. The other files are .stls of the box I like, including its mount that mounts to the pairs of holes on the bottom of TylerR's collator bases. Also listed is the relay we like to use....TylerR's find.

Looks like this in Tyler's downloads (this is just a screen shot...not linkable):



below are 2 pictures of the box mounted to a 3000 collator base. For me it works extremely well.




TylerR might just post his own preferences tomorrow.....Then you will have two systems to choose from...

Might as well give you the direct link to the speed control spec'd in the above:

https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-12V-4...0QVONO20&psc=1

[M500]

[QUOTE=GWS;5496544]
TylerR might just post his own preferences tomorrow.....Then you will have two systems to choose from...


Thank you GWS for your reply. That looks like a good unit. I'm not looking to buy any at the moment. I'm working on a project and was asking more so to be consistent with the manual.

[GWS]

I'm not sure the manual is up to date with motors....would be surprised. But TylerR will tell us. The speed control that quit me didn't have a relay....that was before he brought up the relay thing.....so maybe that was why. Hopefully he'll come and see us tomorrow....he tends to stay away from here on weekends.

[tt365]

I'm using the little speed controller. I bought a pack before discovering this forum. I have 2 in use, both with the relays, and they have been running fine, even with jams. Though I do use the clutch system, si it shouldn't lock up the motor.

[M500]

These are the ones I have. The older manuals link to it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QIFA79K/


Edit: I see these ship from china. The one you posted and the one in the current manual ship from amazon. Might be why it was changed.

[calgarysparky]

Hi Again.

So is the drop tube with the switch supposed to sit directly on top of the bullet seating die? Reason I ask is that either the drop tube is too small or the bullet die top is to big. They won't slide together. Sanding? Or am I missing an adapter tube that I am unaware of. This is for 9mm. Thanks!

[M500]

Drop tube parts A-1 or B-1 should fit directly on top of feed die part A.