Making that Bullet Collator

[azlester]

If I were to guess, is would be......9mm in a 11mm spring may be enough extra room to tilt the bullets and allow them to jam up..........or......the transitions between spring and tube may have a shelf or lip to hang a bullet. Gotta be smooth in those transitions......

Third possibility is the drop tubes are not smooth inside. Find a drill bit close to the i.s. diameter and run it back and forth manually in there to eliminate any strings, blobs, or roughness inside. You might even have to run a round file inside or some acetone soaked rag wrapped bit through it.

Slicer settings to stop stringing and blobs will prevent 95% of that grief, but such settings are slicer specific. I use IdeaMaker, and you probably use another.....so my setting may not be any help.

There aren't any blobs or strings on any of the parts... I am thinking that the size of the spring and adapters are allowing the bullets to get cockeyed and blocking up the works. It is the flat base of the bullets that's causing the problem.. if the went in nose down they don't get hung up. Have to wait a month for the next size smaller spring... and cost me an extra $12... I may see if I can print something up that will act like a funnel of sorts for the joints of the adapter connectors in the mean time.

[jamg]

If you want to use clear tube between the APP insert (or offset) then yes, there is an adapter that goes from the clear tube to the bottom of the drop tube. These is a picture of that in the project. Or you can just skip the clear tube completely.

What adapter is off the drop tube to the clear tube in this picture?

Any hints on printing the base slide? I've printed several and I haven't been able to get them to slide smoothly on the APP press, even after filing and trying to clean up the print.

[GWS]

There aren't any blobs or strings on any of the parts... I am thinking that the size of the spring and adapters are allowing the bullets to get cockeyed and blocking up the works. It is the flat base of the bullets that's causing the problem.. if the went in nose down they don't get hung up. Have to wait a month for the next size smaller spring... and cost me an extra $12... I may see if I can print something up that will act like a funnel of sorts for the joints of the adapter connectors in the mean time.

One of the important basics here is making sure the I.S. diameter of the spring is not smaller in diameter than the I.S. diameter of the top spring adapter.
And likewise, making sure the I.S. diameter of the LOWER spring adapter is not smaller than the spring's I.S. diameter. Otherwise, in both cases, a shelf is protruding at those junctions to catch the base of your bullets.

The third thing that can catch bullet bases, is if the spring is stretched too far and bent too far around curves which would allow the bases to be trapped between coils. And you are right in the observation that the more room a bullet has to tilt, the easier it can get so trapped. I think I've covered most possibilities....if not TylerR will surely think of it, and share.

You say there's no blobs or strings, but be safe and run a drill bit just under the diameter, using a hand in and out, through the inside a few times....it only takes one spot to give you grief.

[GWS]

What adapter is off the drop tube to the clear tube in this picture?


Not my stuff, but if it's Lee's 9/16 clear tubing, it's probably "APP_Drop_Tube_#3_#4_Adapter.stl" Don't know where TylerR is....I hope on vacation! Vacation for me is getting to stay home.....

Any hints on printing the base slide? I've printed several and I haven't been able to get them to slide smoothly on the APP press, even after filing and trying to clean up the print.

I don't remember having much trouble with the base slide. It may be a calibration problem on your printer, or print settings like retraction that's causing blobs and strings. I would try burnishing with graphite first. I ALWAYS burnish with graphite, both on lees shuttle ramp and on every shuttle slide. Makes them a lot slicker.

If I had a pretty bad fit, I'd probably start with needle files, an X-acto knife, very fine sandpaper.....say 400 to 2400 grit, to start, then plastic polish, then graphite powder bought at an automotive parts store.

[azlester]

One of the important basics here is making sure the I.S. diameter of the spring is not smaller in diameter than the I.S. diameter of the top spring adapter.
And likewise, making sure the I.S. diameter of the LOWER spring adapter is not smaller than the spring's I.S. diameter. Otherwise, in both cases, a shelf is protruding at those junctions to catch the base of your bullets.

The third thing that can catch bullet bases, is if the spring is stretched too far and bent too far around curves which would allow the bases to be trapped between coils. And you are right in the observation that the more room a bullet has to tilt, the easier it can get so trapped. I think I've covered most possibilities....if not TylerR will surely think of it, and share.

You say there's no blobs or strings, but be safe and run a drill bit just under the diameter, using a hand in and out, through the inside a few times....it only takes one spot to give you grief.

After I learned a few tricks in Tinkercad I was able to design these... they are what I call splices to reduce the opening at the spring and adapter joints above the bullet feeder... made one for 9mm/38 and one for 7.62 bullets. I have been waiting for my replacement CR Touch to get here so I can try and print them out and see if they will work or not.Attachment 299751

[Tom Myers]

What adapter is off the drop tube to the clear tube in this picture?

Any hints on printing the base slide? I've printed several and I haven't been able to get them to slide smoothly on the APP press, even after filing and trying to clean up the print.

Try turning the slide with the flat side down on the printing bed, and then enable Supports everywhere.

[GWS]

After I learned a few tricks in Tinkercad I was able to design these... they are what I call splices to reduce the opening at the spring and adapter joints above the bullet feeder... made one for 9mm/38 and one for 7.62 bullets. I have been waiting for my replacement CR Touch to get here so I can try and print them out and see if they will work or not.Attachment 299751

Clicking your attachment didn't work for me for some reason.....says, "Invalid Attachment specified."

[jamg]

I don't remember having much trouble with the base slide. It may be a calibration problem on your printer, or print settings like retraction that's causing blobs and strings. I would try burnishing with graphite first. I ALWAYS burnish with graphite, both on lees shuttle ramp and on every shuttle slide. Makes them a lot slicker.

If I had a pretty bad fit, I'd probably start with needle files, an X-acto knife, very fine sandpaper.....say 400 to 2400 grit, to start, then plastic polish, then graphite powder bought at an automotive parts store.

Try turning the slide with the flat side down on the printing bed, and then enable Supports everywhere.

Thank you both, I'll give that a shot.

[azlester]

Clicking your attachment didn't work for me for some reason.....says, "Invalid Attachment specified."

Let's try this again.... It is an 11mm tube with the top funnel shaped to make the bullets slide in without getting tilted and locked up. One is for 9mm the other is for 308 bullets.

[GWS]

Let's try this again.... It is an 11mm tube with the top funnel shaped to make the bullets slide in without getting tilted and locked up. One is for 9mm the other is for 308 bullets.

Where and how is this "splice" used? For Spring tubing or Clear Tubing? 11mm is I.S. diameter?

The following is what I had to make to go from clear tubing UP to my Proximity sensor Tee using the RCBS small tube inside the large clear tube for 223 just the larger tube for 308. (the clear tubes that came with my RCBS Pro Chucker 7 case feeder).



I used transparent mode to show how the insides look....the clear parts are the RCBS tubes. On my press, when you collate smaller cases you just drop the small tubing inside the large one. Unusual, but it works.

[jamg]

Have been waiting on the springs coming over on the boat, but I found a spring at home depot that appears to work fine with 9mm at home depot. Oddly it does not appear to be available at all home depots, but you can utilize brickseek to see if a specific store has it. Home depot internet number 202045460. Spring adapter 12 appears to work fine with this spring.

EDIT: LOL just got an email saying the springs coming over on the boat are at the local delivery point.

[azlester]

Where and how is this "splice" used? For Spring tubing or Clear Tubing? 11mm is I.S. diameter?

The following is what I had to make to go from clear tubing UP to my Proximity sensor Tee using the RCBS small tube inside the large clear tube for 223 just the larger tube for 308. (the clear tubes that came with my RCBS Pro Chucker 7 case feeder).



I used transparent mode to show how the insides look....the clear parts are the RCBS tubes. On my press, when you collate smaller cases you just drop the small tubing inside the large one. Unusual, but it works.

Well it appears that my first attempt at designing something kind of works...it resolved 95% of the problem feeding 9mm bullets to the bullet feeding die. It will work until my new smaller springs arrive.
GWS I sure wish I had your design skills! those look fantastic!!

[GWS]

Autocad has to have something to set it apart.....not that it's that important to have that "look-in-side" mode (and most cad systems have similar attempts at it they call X-ray), but since it does it well I thought you'd be interested in seeing the "funnel" inside that makes the parts work well......and you can probably duplicate that on your software. I was just giving you food for thought.

I've been on Autocad for nearly 50 years.....but.....on the 3D side of it only 2 years! Had to buy a 3d printer to even be interested in learning it. Architecture is not feasible to do it 3D except for just renderings....and even they cost more money and time than most people are willing to pay for.

[kmitchl]

In reading this thread it appears that a number of people have made significant contributions to the open source bullet feeder. I printed most of the parts I needed for a 9mm setup back when Ammomike83 was involved and the files were still on Thingiverse. I just had the time to complete this project and find I need the parts for 40 cal, 223 and 45 cal. Can someone point me to the Ammomike83 files or something close.

[djinnpb]

So for those that ebay up the Autonics sensor, any recently got from a quality seller? I have a genuine one but ordered another as a spare from ashleytrade1984* (26900) and it's about as fake as it could be. label is a sticker, not laser printed, etc. Straight from China. So make sure if you snag one from the slow boat you actually get a real one. Pic of the fake (on bottom) and a genuine one on top:

[GWS]

So for those that ebay up the Autonics sensor, any recently got from a quality seller? I have a genuine one but ordered another as a spare from ashleytrade1984* (26900) and it's about as fake as it could be. label is a sticker, not laser printed, etc. Straight from China. So make sure if you snag one from the slow boat you actually get a real one. Pic of the fake (on bottom) and a genuine one on top:

What if the label is just cost-cutting at Autonics? How sure are you that it's fake? Probably both were made in China.....like my laptop, and my Apple phone.

I have an Autonics.....different model with a green sensor.....but it has the sticker, Model # PRD18-14DN2, but it also has an LED that goes on when the sensor is activated instead of the accordion cord end. There's a lot of info on the sticker....circuit-wise. You suppose the old label might be under the new one? Or if not, that the old way of labeling made it harder to add the circuit info?.....just thoughts, no definitive knowledge. Curious tho.

Mine seems to work fine.

[TylerR]

What if the label is just cost-cutting at Autonics? How sure are you that it's fake? Probably both were made in China.....like my laptop, and my Apple phone.

I have an Autonics.....different model with a green sensor.....but it has the sticker, Model # PRD18-14DN2, but it also has an LED that goes on when the sensor is activated instead of the accordion cord end. There's a lot of info on the sticker....circuit-wise. You suppose the old label might be under the new one? Or if not, that the old way of labeling made it harder to add the circuit info?.....just thoughts, no definitive knowledge. Curious tho.

Mine seems to work fine.

I think you are probably correct GWS. I also have some that I ordered from China. They actually have the green tip, and a sticker for the label. Looking at the packaging I believe it is a genuine Autonics product not a knockoff. I am sure they all are produced in China. I have not ordered one stateside recently so it is possible they just changed how they were doing the label.

[djinnpb]

What if the label is just cost-cutting at Autonics? How sure are you that it's fake? Probably both were made in China.....like my laptop, and my Apple phone.

I think you are probably correct GWS. I also have some that I ordered from China. They actually have the green tip, and a sticker for the label. Looking at the packaging I believe it is a genuine Autonics product not a knockoff. I am sure they all are produced in China. I have not ordered one stateside recently so it is possible they just changed how they were doing the label.

So I sent pictures and called Autonics and apparently it's a big thing to copy and make it look like it. I mean they're all made in China, so specs and function are all the same. And for the cost difference, I'm not upset. Ah according to Autonics, none should be a sticker on it, it's laser printed and the 14DN2 should be lasered on the flat part of the blue. Guy said "don't recommend buying off ebay happens a lot" :P Though just like you guys it works fine and 16-17 versus 32 is fine by me. Tested it against the genuine and seems to work just as well. Oh and the bag should have a barcode not a QR code sticker. Actually just bought for a spare anyways or an excuse for an extra feeder just for the APP.

Oh and forgot it was amazingly fast delivery. Took 18 days from order to delivery, transit was 12. Was quick. Of course when you really need something, it takes 4 months (last time I ordered a skr board for one of my printers)

[GWS]

Mine came from Amazon not Ebay.....and as I said it came with an LED base not a rubber flex base.....and it wasn't cheap...$32.

https://www.amazon.com/AUTONICS-PRD1...ps%2C89&sr=8-1

Also strange, the Ad as you will notice has a Yellow sensor, not a blue. Yet came olive green. Talk about a confusing mess.

Here's a picture of what I got and it's packaging:



What is Laser printed on the end of the plastic sensor is "R115CR"



If the Chinese have this bad a problem with patents, not much we can do to prevent it.....they've got to stop it from China. Makes me wonder if Autonics buys them from a common manufacturer, who also sells nameless versions to others to which they can apply their own markings and packaging or copy Autonics. Maybe we will never know. Reminds me of Berrys Bullets who makes RCBS's green media separater and their own blue one and two others that I know of....and they are identical except for color.

BTW the LED base is lit when powered up and turns off when metal is sensed, both the light and power.......which means I have no reason to buy a lit switch.

[TylerR]

So I sent pictures and called Autonics and apparently it's a big thing to copy and make it look like it. I mean they're all made in China, so specs and function are all the same. And for the cost difference, I'm not upset. Ah according to Autonics, none should be a sticker on it, it's laser printed and the 14DN2 should be lasered on the flat part of the blue. Guy said "don't recommend buying off ebay happens a lot" :P Though just like you guys it works fine and 16-17 versus 32 is fine by me. Tested it against the genuine and seems to work just as well. Oh and the bag should have a barcode not a QR code sticker. Actually just bought for a spare anyways or an excuse for an extra feeder just for the APP.

Oh and forgot it was amazingly fast delivery. Took 18 days from order to delivery, transit was 12. Was quick. Of course when you really need something, it takes 4 months (last time I ordered a skr board for one of my printers)

That is great info, thank you. You are right, performance may be exactly the same but it is nice to know the difference.