Thanks for your print diagnostic tips! Not 100% sure, but my suspicion was that there was a temporary clog during the print. I reprinted with roughly the same settings after cleaning and releveling, and the plate came out flawless. Let the collating commence...
I've got a couple of spring questions. I bought the linked springs in 10 12 15 mm from a few pages back, Alibaba 1 meter.
Why do people stretch them? Is it just to see the bullets travelling?
I also assume they are just bare spring steel and that's why they are oiled, but I'm planning on feeding my resizing setup so I'm going to strip that oil off. Has anyone had rusting problems with these china springs? I love in the high desert so not a lot of humidity.
That's It I guess. If I get a good setup on the xl650 to size bullets I'll share those pics...
Again. I’ve been told it looks like the start of a “heat jam.” Drop temp and try again when new PLA+ gets here.
Sorry to see that. must be frustrating to be that far along and the a ruined print. I have been there many times, but not with the same issue you are having. Could it be an issue with the nozzle? Maybe try swapping it out.Originally Posted by acr
Again. I’ve been told it looks like the start of a “heat jam.” Drop temp and try again when new PLA+ gets here.
I had a final right there too. Different failure mode though. Sorta think octoprint had a hiccup and I found the printer stopped and just sitting there. No clog, no anything. Perfect print until then. 3d printing has surprises sometimes.
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Mines back to stopping mid print again too. I came back to the house after an hour and it was stopped, with a message that says add more filament. I think it's a combination of semi-clogged nozzle and bad out-of-filament sensor (the black box on top of the filament feed). A Creality design fault IMO. I can start it again and it purges a bunch of plastic then moves back to the print and starts where it left off. I've heard of people fixing the problem just by removing the sensor.....but then of course it wouldn't turn off if you really ARE out of filament.
Will replace the nozzle........again. Somebody smarter than me needs to come up with a real fix.....Creality comes to mind. The last time I had problems this way, I was retracting too far. Now I don't know what.....maybe I need to be more organized and make sure I don't have slicer models left that still retracts too much, that I mistakenly switched back to.
Telling you all this only to give you possible things to look at. Good luck.
Yes, I do stretch mine a little so I can see what is going on inside. It is not required, and being tightly wound does have some advantages.
Many of the setups people show may be using a different spring. The DAA springs for instance are loosely wound.
I have not had any rust issues. Low humidity environment, should be no problems.
Pics are always welcome.
I am trying to finish up my setup. I want to do a 9mm brass collator going into a Dillon XL750. I am using KC10Kevins dual collator setup. The only missing piece is the path from the collator to the press. Should I keep the Dillon case feed tube and cut it to length, or is it better to use the spring (I have spring that is 15.5OD and 13ID)? I have my 10mm switch tube ready. I was trying to connect the drop tube to the drop hole adapter using part I "Drop_Hole_Drop_Tube_Adapter" and then I was going to cut my drop tube that came with the Dillon but I found the angle wasn't quite right. Thats why i am thinking about going with a spring instead. I can't find any good pictures on this but do you guys put the drop tube right into the press? I know this is a lot of questions in one place lol.
Go with the spring. It takes all the work out of trying to line it up perfectly. Then the spring goes right to the drop tube. Connect the drop tube to the Dillon case feed adapter using "Dillon_Drop_Tube_Adapter".
Thanks. That's what I was after. So from the Brass_X_Drop_Hole_Adapter, I go to Spring_Adapter_13, then a piece of spring, then Spring_Adapter_13_DT, then the drop tube, then the Dillon_Drop_Tube_Adapter, and then into the plastic piece that came with the press. Does that sound right?
Yes, you nailed it.
Not sure if you saw it in the download but this is a picture of that setup with MONGO.
Last edited by TylerR; 02-07-2022 at 09:33 PM.
I don't recall seeing that off hand. Mind you I started about a month ago. Maybe it's time to go through the whole thing again.
Maybe you all know about this site, but I didn't. Found it to be a treasure trove of information for Creality owners:
https://www.crealityexperts.com/repair-guides
Now maybe I can fix my machine right......
I'm beginning to wonder if I didn't screw in the last nozzle change tight enough.....and it did this:
That would cause filament feeding problems..... If so I knew better.....
I went ahead and ordered a new hot end (minus the enclosure) from amazon for $24.....just in case and to have around if I don't need it. (got the amazon link from the link above)
Well......I had another evening of of bewilderment. It was just a tiny 1 hour long print that kept stopping over and over and over. I changed nozzles, I changed tubing to the hot end, I cleaned the heck out of the area above the nozzle....nothing worked. It just kept stopping and telling me to re-add filament. Then it required a purge through the nozzle (geeze I wasted a lot of filament with a lot of purges).
Then I got mad and instead of refeeding the filament for the 6th time, I changed the whole spool......doh......it worked.So looking close, I saw that the spool was poorly wound from the factory....evidently resisting the feed. Why didn't I look at that first? Maybe because that's the first badly wound spool I've ever had?
I'm glad I have a new hot end and a bunch of nozzles coming anyway.....one of the rare smart moves I made....doesn't hurt to have a hot end in reserve.
What brand filament? Haven't had issues with the 6 rolls of inland I've run so far. Thinking of trying something exotic from protopasta. Maybe copper filled or something like that.
I'm currently in a good spot with my e3v2, but had all sorts of issues when I tried the EZABL. I don't know if it was a firmware or coding error. I'd level the bed manually, adjust the z offset, have it runs mesh every print.... And still have lots of issues. Seems like such a good idea. I may try it again after my frustration with it subsides.
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Zyltec Gunmetal.....I think it was a fluke because I've had perfect experience with maybe 20 rolls of their products. I like and use EZABL....never had problems at all. So much easier than hand leveling and does it perfect every time. Do read about "babystepping". Each brand of filament lays down different and some needs the tip at a slightly different first layer height than others.....have no idea why. I just watch the skirt laid down and make sure it's a little bit flat on top, if not I babystep it down. That and using TylerR's choice of a bed material, I have no leveling problems.
Yeah. It seems like good hardware, the engineer in me thinks like it should work well. but mine just didn't seem like it was doing what I needed it to do. The solid mounts seemed like it was a good idea too, with the ezabl. With an almost flat bed, and the correction using the EZABL to correct it seemed like a solution. I'm going to try again sometime.
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Finally getting around to getting my setup running, how close am I in setting this up correctly? I am looking at setting up .45 nose down for resizing, so far its not looking good for me. I am using the #7 plate in the front, but I want the bullets to fall from the drop hole on the side and not the front. What am I missing here as I basically ran the generator in order to get all the files I needed to print one caliber and this is what I got.
https://youtu.be/C0y2GKqvJck
Thanks.
For nose down, you use nose down slide plate in the correct size, and plug the side hole. It drops through the slide plate.
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This is the answer. side hole is for nose up. check out the videos in the manual. it shows how they all work.
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