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Thread: Making that Bullet Collator

  1. #5361
    Boolit Master TylerR's Avatar
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    Just saw that these came in stock. A bit cheaper then other one on amazon and free shipping.
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...BCIIZ5PQ&psc=1

  2. #5362
    Boolit Master GWS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 45acp View Post
    @GWS...
    I really like your design for the proximity sensor and i want to use it for the bullet feeder. I will use a spring for the bullets, but i donīt want the whole spring filled with bullets all the time and therefor i need to attach the sensor to the bullet feed die insert.
    Is there an adapter for this connection available? Maybe i just missing it?
    TIA
    My spring tubes came from Hornady's pistol bullet feeder (which I still use but modified to flip bullets and use TylerR's feed dies.) Those springs are heavy duty and tightly wound, made to be filled with bullets.....Also all collators at that time, if they even had switches, mounted them topside outside the collators........that was then. Now with the very thin and floppy springs people buy now, especially the Chinese springs, long downtubes into the feed dies and switches mounted just above have become more common. TylerR's system is an example of one that works well, but I'm committed to my earlier topside design. Again, it works....I won't mess with it. That said, I'm still intrigued with Tyler's "stack"....still will try one on one of my feeders.

    If you want to mount the sensor switch in that fashion, and keep the spring mostly empty, do go with Tyler's system and parts. There's a video on Tyler's download for the prox sensor.....watch it for sure.

    I've wanted to try out his cool stacked parts, but I needed to order the short more sensitive switch......and I need to reprint his Tee....the first try at printing it was less than desirable, so make sure you use the settings he does on your 3d printer. I will try again when the Chinese switch makes it to New Mexico.

    Quote Originally Posted by TylerR View Post
    Just saw that these came in stock. A bit cheaper then other one on amazon and free shipping.
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...BCIIZ5PQ&psc=1
    That's not too bad......2 days too late for me.....waiting for the China boat.
    Last edited by GWS; 01-04-2022 at 11:52 PM.

  3. #5363
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    Quote Originally Posted by akonibai View Post
    how did the 6rpm JGY370 motor perform? do you still need variable controller?
    I am still waiting on screws of all things, but in teats it seems up to the challenge. I need to check it's actual RPM. Seems faster than 6rpm to me.

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  4. #5364
    Boolit Buddy Sig's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GWS View Post
    That's not too bad......2 days too late for me.....waiting for the China boat.
    Yours may get here first. That one from Amazon states expected delivery between 2/1-2/23

    I'm gonna bite the bullet & buy the more $$$ from Amazon as I don't think I can wait. Main body has been printing for 44 hours & is at 97%. I think I've printed everything else but the spring adapters. Waiting for those to show so I get the thread direction correct.
    Last edited by Sig; 01-05-2022 at 06:35 PM.

  5. #5365
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    I didn't see it (maybe I missed it). But what's the suggested spring.

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  6. #5366
    Boolit Bub 45acp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MSUICEMAN View Post
    I didn't see it (maybe I missed it). But what's the suggested spring.

    Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk
    I got these. Seems sturdy enough. But i havenīt seen them in action yet, maybe they arenīt.
    Maybe someone else have used those and can give some feedback?
    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3281...27424c4d4LaKpI

  7. #5367
    Boolit Master TylerR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 45acp View Post
    I got these. Seems sturdy enough. But i havenīt seen them in action yet, maybe they arenīt.
    Maybe someone else have used those and can give some feedback?
    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3281...27424c4d4LaKpI
    Those are the good ones. Higher quality then some of the name brand stuff I ended up buying.

  8. #5368
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    I got the DAA Large one. Maybe I shouldn't have? The spring for the flipper arm, any recommended size or just what would fit? I still need to get them

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  9. #5369
    Boolit Master TylerR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MSUICEMAN View Post
    I got the DAA Large one. Maybe I shouldn't have? The spring for the flipper arm, any recommended size or just what would fit? I still need to get them

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    It will work fine. flipper arm spring anything you can find that fits in there. Even a pen spring will work. Having a assorted pack of compression springs is helpful.

  10. #5370
    Boolit Master TylerR's Avatar
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    A new item of note. Someone requested the ability to handle larger magnum brass such as 45/70. There are now drop tubes and spring adapters to handle up to 16mm (15.6mm to be precise). The new stuff is on github.

    it is designed to match up with the 18mm spring available here:
    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3280...12dd7ff3WFo2qV

    There have been a fair number of other small changes, so if you are looking to print anything I would suggest downloading the latest.

  11. #5371
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    For those using light sensor, if you are using the Emusky one from Amazon I am curious how they are holding up. I have gone through three already between the bullet and case feeders. I thought it might be because I wired positive through the relay, but I rewired after the first one fried and two more went kaput. All doing the same thing; start working intermittently the you can hear the relay clicking on/off but circuit not completing to send power/ground.

    I have an old ammomike build with a larger one Amazon doesn’t stock at the moment and it is still going strong. The other two I have made for friends are using another brand also not available ATM and they are still running.

    Curious what model others are using if they are holding up.

    Also wondering if heat may be an issue as the box is stuffed with two motor boards, switches and sensor boards.

  12. #5372
    Boolit Master GWS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TylerR View Post
    A new item of note. Someone requested the ability to handle larger magnum brass such as 45/70. There are now drop tubes and spring adapters to handle up to 16mm (15.6mm to be precise). The new stuff is on github.

    it is designed to match up with the 18mm spring available here:
    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3280...12dd7ff3WFo2qV

    There have been a fair number of other small changes, so if you are looking to print anything I would suggest downloading the latest.
    TylerR continues to be very dedicated to his project! I'm done with acquiring new caliber rifles....too darn old to be multiplying the guns in my hold. But you younger guys are lucky to have TylerR who reacts to the needs of those building 3d collators and such.....we don't find that even in the commercial collator products.

    I've been meaning to try out TylerR's proximity switch parts, where he has downtubes inserted inside for about any caliber.....I already attempted to print a tee months ago, but the print was a disaster. Finally two days ago, I told TylerR about the fiasco, and he helped me realize that the part was printed upside down, and so was trying to print some of it in mid air! Well....that made me realize that you have to check the .stl you want to print, very careful like.....if it is upside down in the .stl it will print upside down.....so if you want to print the excellent Prox Tee of TylerR's flip the .stl model 180 degrees or you will experience what I did.

    I just finished printing the four parts today (correctly) and they are great. Picture below comparing them to my own Prox Tee, and was pleased to find that, put together, the parts aren't any longer than mine (mine is the blue one on the right)



    Some have been confused about whether to use my files or TylerR's.....as you can see there isn't a lot of difference, excepting that I use one Tee and only one Tee insert required for the tiny .223 caliber size. Testing, I found that all the bigger calibers worked fine without changing inserts, so being the lazy soul I am, I didn't make variable sized inserts separate as we have with TylerR's downtube inserts.....which do work great, both as die mounted downtubes or using the "alternate" downtubes, to be mounted just under the collator, allowing springs to fill with bullets and cases. My system was designed only to be used under the collators allowing spring tubes and clear tubing to fill up before turning off. I have never had problems with my springs full of bullets....it's a matter of how stout of a spring it is and mine are plenty stout. Hope that clears up the questions. Below is a picture of my Tee and it's only insert for .223.



    I also thought I'd share one more little optional part for case collators: I don't plan to ever change the collators I built for cases to collate bullets .... I mean, I have bullet collators already. So I wanted a way to fill the bullet drop hole in the collator base, a little more unobtrusively, by printing one part to screw in, in place of the plugs screwed into another part.....so requiring one print not two. Picture below is what I designed and printed. Just a simple print anyone is welcome to use. Maybe Tyler will add it, if not I'll post it here.

    Last edited by GWS; 01-08-2022 at 01:55 AM.

  13. #5373
    Boolit Master TylerR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GWS View Post
    TylerR continues to be very dedicated to his project! I'm done with acquiring new caliber rifles....too darn old to be multiplying the guns in my hold. But you younger guys are lucky to have TylerR who reacts to the needs of those building 3d collators and such.....we don't find that even in the commercial collator products.

    I've been meaning to try out TylerR's proximity switch parts, where he has downtubes inserted inside for about any caliber.....I already attempted to print a tee months ago, but the print was a disaster. Finally two days ago, I told TylerR about the fiasco, and he helped me realize that the part was printed upside down, and so was trying to print some of it in mid air! Well....that made me realize that you have to check the .stl you want to print, very careful like.....if it is upside down in the .stl it will print upside down.....so if you want to print the excellent Prox Tee of TylerR's flip the .stl model 180 degrees or you will experience what I did.

    I just finished printing the four parts today (correctly) and they are great. Picture below comparing them to my own Prox Tee, and was pleased to find that, put together, the parts aren't any longer than mine (mine is the blue one on the right)

    Some have been confused about whether to use my files or TylerR's.....as you can see there isn't a lot of difference, excepting that I use one Tee and only one Tee insert required for the tiny .223 caliber size. Testing, I found that all the bigger calibers worked fine without changing inserts, so being the lazy soul I am, I didn't make variable sized inserts separate as we have with TylerR's downtube inserts.....which do work great, both as die mounted downtubes or using the "alternate" downtubes, to be mounted just under the collator, allowing springs to fill with bullets and cases. My system was designed only to be used under the collators allowing spring tubes and clear tubing to fill up before turning off. I have never had problems with my springs full of bullets....it's a matter of how stout of a spring it is and mine are plenty stout. Hope that clears up the questions. Below is a picture of my Tee and it's only insert for .223.

    I also thought I'd share one more little optional part for case collators: I don't plan to ever change the collators I built for cases to collate bullets .... I mean, I have bullet collators already. So I wanted a way to fill the bullet drop hole in the collator base, a little more unobtrusively, by printing one part to screw in, in place of the plugs screwed into another part.....so requiring one print not two. Picture below is what I designed and printed. Just a simple print anyone is welcome to use. Maybe Tyler will add it, if not I'll post it here.
    Just to be clear for everyone here, I stole GWS's concept of a top mounted drop tube. His was the original. Oh and the entire idea of a proximity sensor as well. With his permission of course

    Parts look great as always GWS. I will take you up on your offer and add the dedicated drop hole plug to the project.

  14. #5374
    Boolit Master GWS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TylerR View Post
    Just to be clear for everyone here, I stole GWS's concept of a top mounted drop tube. His was the original. Oh and the entire idea of a proximity sensor as well. With his permission of course

    Parts look great as always GWS. I will take you up on your offer and add the dedicated drop hole plug to the project.

    I can surely appreciate all the wisdom and skill you have. So I come up with a little idea, TylerR perfects and expands it.....that's how the synergy seems to go. But nothing compared to all the collator work you've done.

    BTW, I've finally got my electrics where I want them.....possible only with your idea to use a relay. I didn't even know what they were being electronic challenged. Anyway here's a few pictures to illustrate the progress.



    In the beginning: AmmoMikes little gem with a tiny electric box and a combo on/off speed control...no relay...burned out 2 switches.



    Next, same little green box on the left...but only on/off. Larger box on the righbelow the motor, holds a relay and a bigger, better speed control....works fine but......more to improve....



    Finally a better designed box with relay, nice rocker arm switch and the same speed control used in #2, all together. Speed control is supported on legs inside the box. The box is mounted to unused holes in the base bottom using a standoff part mating those base holes with the holes on the speed control board.

    Oh, btw, the little thin collator outlet hole plug is seen in the top right of that last picture,(not screwed in yet....maybe I shoulda beveled the holes for flat heads, awe pan heads will work fine.)
    Last edited by GWS; 01-12-2022 at 10:13 PM.

  15. #5375
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    Quote Originally Posted by TylerR View Post
    I think this is wise and the way to go. You have now entered the realm of R&D. Please share whatever your findings are as it will help others.
    After getting pulled away from trying to create a shell plate for .38 Special, I pretty much decided to try to just use one of the existing collator plates. The main issue I run into at this point is that the mouth of a layed over case will occasionally get caught in one of the holes for mounting the box with the electronics. The slip clutch does its job when this happens.



    I have tried increasing the angle on the feeder, but that hasn't had any effect. I'm thinking maybe I need to print some plugs to put in those holes. Any chance of getting the diameter and depth of the larger part of the hole?

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  16. #5376
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    Quote Originally Posted by ranger391xt View Post
    After getting pulled away from trying to create a shell plate for .38 Special, I pretty much decided to try to just use one of the existing collator plates. The main issue I run into at this point is that the mouth of a layed over case will occasionally get caught in one of the holes for mounting the box with the electronics. The slip clutch does its job when this happens.



    I have tried increasing the angle on the feeder, but that hasn't had any effect. I'm thinking maybe I need to print some plugs to put in those holes. Any chance of getting the diameter and depth of the larger part of the hole?

    Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk
    Personally? I'd just jb weld it. But I'm a bit of an ogre sometimes in my thinking.

    Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

  17. #5377
    Boolit Master TylerR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ranger391xt View Post
    After getting pulled away from trying to create a shell plate for .38 Special, I pretty much decided to try to just use one of the existing collator plates. The main issue I run into at this point is that the mouth of a layed over case will occasionally get caught in one of the holes for mounting the box with the electronics. The slip clutch does its job when this happens.

    I have tried increasing the angle on the feeder, but that hasn't had any effect. I'm thinking maybe I need to print some plugs to put in those holes. Any chance of getting the diameter and depth of the larger part of the hole?
    I discovered the same thing. It seemed like a good thing to do at the time, design wise. But in practice it was an issue. I removed those mounting holes from the main body many months ago, but only after I had printed my mongo collator. It now sits with some gorilla tape covering those holes. I do recommend re-downloading the package to get all the latest.

    The hole is 7.2mm diameter.

  18. #5378
    Boolit Master TylerR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MSUICEMAN View Post
    Personally? I'd just jb weld it. But I'm a bit of an ogre sometimes in my thinking.
    JB weld would fix it up right quick. Even wood putty would work.

  19. #5379
    Boolit Master GWS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MSUICEMAN View Post
    Personally? I'd just jb weld it. But I'm a bit of an ogre sometimes in my thinking.

    Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk
    I have to agree. But it doesn't have to be orgrish. Just rub vasoline over the areas inside and as for the holes press vasoline into the holes with a cotton swab. Then Add the JB Weld.....let it dry, and it won't stick to the base....should pop right out. After drying the patches can be smoothed around the edges and you can use mineral spirits to clean all the vasoline.

    That way you could use those holes if you ever needed to.
    Last edited by GWS; 01-09-2022 at 01:45 AM.

  20. #5380
    Boolit Master TylerR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by r4ndy View Post
    For those using light sensor, if you are using the Emusky one from Amazon I am curious how they are holding up. I have gone through three already between the bullet and case feeders. I thought it might be because I wired positive through the relay, but I rewired after the first one fried and two more went kaput. All doing the same thing; start working intermittently the you can hear the relay clicking on/off but circuit not completing to send power/ground.

    I have an old ammomike build with a larger one Amazon doesn’t stock at the moment and it is still going strong. The other two I have made for friends are using another brand also not available ATM and they are still running.

    Curious what model others are using if they are holding up.

    Also wondering if heat may be an issue as the box is stuffed with two motor boards, switches and sensor boards.
    I am not sure on the failures. The one I wired up worked well for the time I used it. Is this the board you are using?

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check