Making that Bullet Collator

[GWS]

I think you just named it. Standard, Mongo, and Just Right.

It is designed to fit on a 300mm bed. I don't plan to really make any special parts for it. I generated the two pistol brass plates for mktacop, and will probably do the rifle brass ones. That's about it. It takes the same ramp as Mongo if anyone is wondering.

Then most likely, the sliders are the same too.....KOOL! "Just Right" depends on your view point: For my CR10v2, that describes it to a tee if you want a case collator. For the Ender 3 folks, not so much. For the Ender 5+ folks the Mongo is just right for a case collator. But whatever....I'll have to print this one.....the temptation is too great, Beelzebub.

[mktacop]

Here is a little teaser….

21 hours in, 37% complete




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[GWS]

Looks great! Except for the baby blue......that would clash with my green eyes.....and equipment! What printer is that?

[mktacop]

Looks great! Except for the baby blue......that would clash with my green eyes.....and equipment! What printer is that?

Well ya know, I drank the blue kool-aid, so it has to match. LOL

The printer is a D-Bot built from plans on Thingiverse. It has a 300x300x425mm print capacity. I printed all the parts on a Robo R1 and built it about 4 years ago.

[nhyrum]

Well... I think I jumped the gun a little on blaming the contact patch for the failure of the drop tube. Today I just noticed that the zip ties I had holding my hot end writing tight and out of the way had come loose and basically went straight back from the hot end instead of following the Bowden tube. I don't see how it could have come in contact with just the drop tube, but I secured it better and I'll give the tube another try.

Anyway, I apologize for flying off the handle bars, my temper can be a bit like a good trigger. It goes 0 to 100 pretty quick

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[TylerR]

Well... I think I jumped the gun a little on blaming the contact patch for the failure of the drop tube. Today I just noticed that the zip ties I had holding my hot end writing tight and out of the way had come loose and basically went straight back from the hot end instead of following the Bowden tube. I don't see how it could have come in contact with just the drop tube, but I secured it better and I'll give the tube another try.

Anyway, I apologize for flying off the handle bars, my temper can be a bit like a good trigger. It goes 0 to 100 pretty quick

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Good news. I assume with that fix and the updated design success is on the horizon.

[silahtar]

Hi Tyler, just wanted to bring up a suggestion. To help manage parts with long print hours, did you ever consider designing the body in a modular way, i.e. bottom and sidewalls screwed together rather than printed at once?

[TylerR]

Hi Tyler, just wanted to bring up a suggestion. To help manage parts with long print hours, did you ever consider designing the body in a modular way, i.e. bottom and sidewalls screwed together rather than printed at once?

There are too many variables now as it is. Currently there are 10 "Main Body" designs. Splitting all of them in to multiple parts would just confuse people more. Especially with the extra assembly required.

[nhyrum]

I'd rather print one part that takes forever than 3 parts that take forever... I tried printing a brass collator that was in three pieces, and fitment was awful, but that was mostly due to it being petg and I don't think any of the parts were flat. Just about everything warped. But still, 1 part will fit better than 3 parts

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[GWS]

Well, TylerR, I've sliced the Mongo wannabe too.....but at layer height of .2 not .12 but with 4 walls and 4 top solid layers.....time is supposed to be only 47h20m. Think that'll work? 59 hours is a loooong time for me, and I'm not sure I need .12mm layers on a collator main.....what do you think?

[TylerR]

Well, TylerR, I've sliced the Mongo wannabe too.....but at layer height of .2 not .12 but with 4 walls and 4 top solid layers.....time is supposed to be only 47h20m. Think that'll work? 59 hours is a loooong time for me, and I'm not sure I need .12mm layers on a collator main.....what do you think?

Oh definitely .2mm. That is actually what the manual suggests.

Part Layer Height Infill Supports Walls Adhesion
Main Body 0.2mm 30% None 4 None

[nhyrum]

That might even be a good place to put a larger nozzle, like .8 and go with even larger layers

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[GWS]

Oh definitely .2mm. That is actually what the manual suggests.

Part Layer Height Infill Supports Walls Adhesion
Main Body 0.2mm 30% None 4 None

That's pretty much what I'm going to do, but I've done my others at 18% infill and it's plenty strong. 30 would slow it down quite a bit.....so we are going to see if I'm sorry. The only place I've increased from the others is the top layers.....just want the flat under plate surface a little smoother....for looks. We will see how that works out. Hoping this is the last one, at least for me.

The only thing I kinda wanted to add was extra holes for my case soldier knocker....but I can drill the holes just fine.

That might even be a good place to put a larger nozzle, like .8 and go with even larger layers

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Might be, but my laziness says I'd buy a printer and do that.....not change settings on my production machine.

[TylerR]

That's pretty much what I'm going to do, but I've done my others at 18% infill and it's plenty strong. 30 would slow it down quite a bit.....so we are going to see if I'm sorry. The only place I've increased from the others is the top layers.....just want the flat under plate surface a little smoother....for looks. We will see how that works out. Hoping this is the last one, at least for me.

The only thing I kinda wanted to add was extra holes for my case soldier knocker....but I can drill the holes just fine.

I could add those if you want. just need to know where. let me know.

[mktacop]

Here is the standard sized main body sitting inside the “Just Right” main body.

Print took 58:41 for me.

Swapping parts over and setting up to print the collator plate now.




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[GWS]

Wow! and that's Tyler's normal sized model not Ammo Mikes little thing either........now I've got to go back and rethink this.....as in do I have room?

And TylerR I will see if I can figure out how to tell you where to place the holes.....I mean I can't just measure of the normal sized one. Holes in the wrong place would be worse than no holes.....let me have a look......and I may have to redesign the knocker too.....different diameter curve.

[mktacop]

I’m going to have to do something different now as well. The Just Right body doesn’t line up with the Dillon tube like the Standard one did, but that was expected. I’ll just have to print some more parts to get everything feeding cases.




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[GWS]

And why was it that you needed a bigger one? Loading .50 Caliber? Just kidding.... My Hornady pistol bullet feeder is about that size.... Geeze, that big motor is dwarfed....

The silver lining is.......I have a new winter mental project to hold off Alzheimers one more year.....don't think I can resist this.......it was easy to resist Mongo.....I don't have room for another bigger printer.....in my house or in my brain.

[mktacop]

I just wanted to be able to load more cases and not have to refill it so often. You know….laziness


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[GWS]

I could add those if you want. just need to know where. let me know.

My memory just was foggy....I actually used the upper right two holes you already supplied stock in the collator. But I will need to redesign anyway being that the inside radius is different and it needs to be taller. So, I'll use the 2 upper holes again in the new size.........but first things first.....need to print the collator first.

mktacop's looks great! I've got some support work to figure out as he does. You could save me a bit of time by supplying me with the inside radius of the new inside wall, and the horizontal hole to hole distance center to center. Any suggestion to make the case deflector design sexier?