I don't think the rims would be an issue as long as the spring is not stretch too far. One thing nice about the china springs is they are not stretched at all.Originally Posted by GWS
Missed the vice question. I don't use a bolt. I just clamp down on the first few coils of the spring with the corners of the vise jaws. Then use vice grips on the other side. It is a little scary when you get that sucker stretched out though.
Last edited by TylerR; 10-29-2021 at 04:44 PM.
Well I was a little spooked about the end coming loose from the vice at full stretch.For the medium #10 part the Hornady spring looked just about right, and I found that a hollow threaded lamp bolt screwed inside of it perfect....so I screwed in a half inch and viced both together.....figuring to save the spring in there. Seemed to work. So I got her done....yup a little scary alright.
Hey @GWS when you print your dies, do you print them one at a time? So far I've had two failed prints. One with two complete die sets and a drop tube, and another with just one set. The one set failed about half way through, but that was after I cranked the speed up from 30mm/s to 60, with a raft, and the other just after like the third later with no raft running at 60mm/s. I didn't clean the bed before either, so that could have been the issue. I've got one set and the drop tube running at 30 again, with a raft and cleaning with alcohol. Hopefully they stick, or I might just have to print them one at a time, I think they fall over when it quickly travels from one to another. Maybe I'll limit the travel speed before going to one at a time...
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There are quite a few variables and more than one can cause lifting and non-stick. What temperature is your bed, what temp is the filament, how stable and level is the printer sitting, and what material is your bed? Cleaning the bed is crucial IMO.
I have printed both one at a time and as a set. One at a time gives a better finish, and you're right that jerking from one to the other can cause problems......if....you have a bed prone to lifting. Sanded Polypropylene was the best decision I ever made, but if you don't have that, you may have to use adhesive.....I never have so I'm not a good source of info on them. Bed temp mated properly to the PLA you're using is important. Can be too high or too low. For what I use, 60C was too low and 70C was too high. Like the 3 bears.....65C was just right.
I had problems with stringing with the settings I was using...Z hop may jerk too much so turn it off....retraction settings are critical too, but also can be dependant on the PLA, and your machine.....but look in my posts back a few pages, and you will see how I changed that.
What bed are you trying to use? I had pure hell with Creality's treated glass bed after only 2 months of prints......even cleaning quit working.
After a bit of digging, the bed material I'm using currently is PEI. It's been kind of off and on about good adhesion. It's either stuck so hard I'm afraid of breaking the glass it's stuck to, or it let's go pretty early on.There are quite a few variables and more than one can cause lifting and non-stick. What temperature is your bed, what temp is the filament, how stable and level is the printer sitting, and what material is your bed? Cleaning the bed is crucial IMO.
I have printed both one at a time and as a set. One at a time gives a better finish, and you're right that jerking from one to the other can cause problems......if....you have a bed prone to lifting. Sanded Polypropylene was the best decision I ever made, but if you don't have that, you may have to use adhesive.....I never have so I'm not a good source of info on them. Bed temp mated properly to the PLA you're using is important. Can be too high or too low. For what I use, 60C was too low and 70C was too high. Like the 3 bears.....65C was just right.
I had problems with stringing with the settings I was using...Z hop may jerk too much so turn it off....retraction settings are critical too, but also can be dependant on the PLA, and your machine.....but look in my posts back a few pages, and you will see how I changed that.
What bed are you trying to use? I had pure hell with Creality's treated glass bed after only 2 months of prints......even cleaning quit working.
I'm using esun silk pla with 215 on the hot end and 65 on the bed, I copied your settings as much as I could, I believe the only thing I've changed is the print speed.
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Last edited by nhyrum; 10-30-2021 at 02:57 PM.
Bed Adhesion, FWIW, I've been printing with my Ender 5 using the original Creality magnetic plastic mat and Sunlu PLA filaments, black, gray, yellow, blue and clear. I've had good luck with adhesion.
In my experience, keeping the nozzle close to the mat is the key. When leveling the bed I try for a good amount of drag on a sheet of paper under the nozzle. The close fit pushes the plastic into the rough surface and insure a good bond, even for tall narrow tube items like dies, feed adapters and flanged bushings I use to mount a camera in the tool heads of my Dillon 750 or in the body of a powder drop die, to check for powder.
I did get some contamination when I tried to use some Overture clear PETD that I never got to work correctly. After the PETD fiasco I cleaned with 90% rubbing alcohol and actually washed it with detergent and hot water. I do not clean for regular use since, I use the lift tab on the mat and grab the printed item without touching the mat. Realignment only requires touching the edges. So far i've printed five entire collators, one spare collator body, dozens of dillon 9mm anti wobble pins, 750 and 1050 brass feed stops, tool holders, cellphone charger holders, whistles, 1022 "parts" and a few halloween skulls planter/candy dish. I've got a replacement glass bed and a box of glue sticks I haven't needed so far.
Last edited by wbbh; 10-30-2021 at 08:03 PM.
After getting the majority of the bullet/case feeder printed for my case feeder build, I realized that the main body would line up with the clear case tube on my Dillon 750. The problem was that the gap between the two was too short for the Drop_Tube_Alt_X to fit so that I could use a sensor to stop the motor when the tube was full. One option would have been to cut the clear tube to size, but I decided against doing that in case I ever get a Dillon case feeder. I could also have designed/printed a new tube using Fusion360 and my printer has the vertical capacity to do that.
Since I don’t have the original files to manipulate in a program like Fusion360, I took an alternate path using Tinkercad. I was able to shorten the Drop_Tube_Alt_X significantly so that it now fits between the case feeder and the clear tube.
I’ve run a couple of tests and the cases are dropping just as they should.
I’d have the whole thing rewired and running if I hadn’t goofed with a wire placement and fried the optical sensor module.
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Looking good! BTW, what is the outside diameter of that Dillon tube......and the inside diameter.....
Is there only one tube or does Dillon supply more than one based on caliber?
I was tempted to try PEI, but then TylerR sweared by Poly P. I'm glad I listened. It's been heaven sent. So easy to use and so predictable.
For my long skinnys, I tried something different yesterday....and got away with it.
I printed a Medium downtube (part that goes on the feeder die insert......timed it so that I watched it go from 95% to 100%......soon as the printing ended (temps normally start back to zero), I reset the temperatures back to 215 and 65, so I wouldn't have to wait for them to reheat, I used a wood chisel bevel side down and popped the finished part with it (it went flying), immediately wiped the hot bed with 99% alcohol, re-homed the nozzle, pushed the command to print the #10 Spring Adapter, and it started the second print......without skipping a beat.
One hour later I had the both parts to finish my 9mm feed die done. Why'd I do that? 1. To save a lot of time usually wasted between prints, waiting for it to heat up. 2. I don't have the imperfections often caused by printing two parts side by side. 3. And I think the parts are stronger when they don't have to cool off between layers when the nozzle is printing the companion part's layers. 4. I'm thinking I will save wear and tear on my printer by not going through as many heat up procedures......I don't think the nozzle or the bed lost much heat, because the second print started in about 20 seconds.
Last edited by GWS; 10-30-2021 at 07:28 PM.
I measured the OD at 18.2 mm and the ID at 14 mm. The tube comes with the press, so as far as I know, that’s the only one.
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USAF Retired
WAR EAGLE!
"A government that does not trust its law abiding citizens to keep and bear arms is its self unworthy of trust."
- James Madison
nice work mktacop, looks good. it is a 2 in one part, handling both the proximity and optical sensors. Shortening it up looks like it did the trick.
How do you make these parts look so dang good?Looking good! BTW, what is the outside diameter of that Dillon tube......and the inside diameter.....
Is there only one tube or does Dillon supply more than one based on caliber?
I was tempted to try PEI, but then TylerR sweared by Poly P. I'm glad I listened. It's been heaven sent. So easy to use and so predictable.
For my long skinnys, I tried something different yesterday....and got away with it.
I printed a Medium downtube (part that goes on the feeder die insert......timed it so that I watched it go from 95% to 100%......soon as the printing ended (temps normally start back to zero), I reset the temperatures back to 215 and 65, so I wouldn't have to wait for them to reheat, I used a wood chisel bevel side down and popped the finished part with it (it went flying), immediately wiped the hot bed with 99% alcohol, re-homed the nozzle, pushed the command to print the #10 Spring Adapter, and it started the second print......without skipping a beat.
One hour later I had the both parts to finish my 9mm feed die done. Why'd I do that? 1. To save a lot of time usually wasted between prints, waiting for it to heat up. 2. I don't have the imperfections often caused by printing two parts side by side. 3. And I think the parts are stronger when they don't have to cool off between layers when the nozzle is printing the companion part's layers. 4. I'm thinking I will save wear and tear on my printer by not going through as many heat up procedures......I don't think the nozzle or the bed lost much heat, because the second print started in about 20 seconds.
You're not serious are you? Yours look great. I had heard that the IdeaMaker slicer might have an edge for quality prints, and that's one reason I gave them a shot, but having not used anything else I wouldn't know the difference, nor could I reason why that might be the case.....You sure you don't just like Satin PLA?
The real reason I chose IdeaMaker was that the menu's were laid out in a more compatible way for my pea brain. Cura just didn't make a lot of sense to me.....sorta like DesignSpark is not wired like I am either, but I like that it's powerful like Autocad and I'm trying really hard to learn it.....well a better way of saying that would be I'm trying really hard not to forget what I learn. Relearning it every day is challenging.
I think that might be it! All I know is your pics make them look amazing.You're not serious are you? Yours look great. I had heard that the IdeaMaker slicer might have an edge for quality prints, and that's one reason I gave them a shot, but having not used anything else I wouldn't know the difference, nor could I reason why that might be the case.....You sure you don't just like Satin PLA?
The real reason I chose IdeaMaker was that the menu's were laid out in a more compatible way for my pea brain. Cura just didn't make a lot of sense to me.....sorta like DesignSpark is not wired like I am either, but I like that it's powerful like Autocad and I'm trying really hard to learn it.....well a better way of saying that would be I'm trying really hard not to forget what I learn. Relearning it every day is challenging.
Well, had a third go off spaghetti mess. I think part of the issue is with the die insert. With cura not generating any support for it's flange area, because it doesn't really need it, all that holds it to the bed are about two lines width of the very tip. So I'm going to print everything by themselves and force cura to generate support just for stability sake. I'm going to order a pp sheet and give that a go, my pei is a bit messed up from attempts at getting petg off it. If all else fails, there's always tree supports and sanding...
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GWS and I don't mean to sound like a broken record, but you just did yourself a huge favor. Once you start printing on the PP bed you are going to wonder why you didn't do it sooner. Trust me.
If it comes pre-textured you are good. If not, sand it with 220 grit paper.
Everything else I've printed has REALLY stuck to this pei. And I mean REALLY stuck. I even broke a few of the odds and ends i printed the other day like the plate handle thing trying to get it of. But I did just order a pp bed, should be here Tuesday. And I'll get 2 more rolls of the esun silk pla to make up for half the spool I've wasted trying to print these blasted diesoh well, that's the world of printing on an ender 3 I guess. Shell do, but I reckon it's like loading with a lee whack a mole(ok, maybe the like 50 dollar Lee press. It's good enough... Ish) I really want to try printing nylon or PC (especially since I found some 3d printable Glock lowers...)
I'd also like a resin machine, but I don't think the materials are quite up there yet, I don't think they have nylon or PC type materials for them.
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Looking at my last 9mm insert, there is only 4 walls on the bed....a space between the two inside walls and the two outside walls.
I'm wondering if the hole between the inside layers and the outside layers would fill in if 3 walls were chosen instead of two? What's your experience TylerR? On this part even one wall might help, I'm thinking. But one thing is for sure, even with 2 walls, mine has never fallen over, requiring a decent bump with the Chisel, as I already described, to break it loose. NO RAFT either.
There!, TylerR......now can you see some imperfections with this close up?
Last edited by GWS; 10-30-2021 at 11:00 PM.
I pretty much print everything at 4 walls anyway. I've had Good luck with printing on the glass covered with painters tape. Maybe I'll give that a go next.Looking at my last 9mm insert, there is only 4 walls on the bed....a space between the two inside walls and the two outside walls.
I'm wondering if the hole between the inside layers and the outside layers would fill in if 3 walls were chosen instead of two? What's your experience TylerR? On this part even one wall might help, I'm thinking. But one thing is for sure, even with 2 walls, mine has never fallen over, requiring a decent bump with the Chisel, as I already described, to break it loose. NO RAFT either.
There!, TylerR......now can you see some imperfections with this close up?
Anyone have experience with the pp bed and petg? The only petg I've had Good luck with was a carbon fiber petg, that actually printed REALLY well, but it's 50 ish bucks for a half kilo... A bit expensive. Everything else I used I had corners lift just about on everything
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I switched to pp beds a few months ago. The bullet feed dies are what made me switch. Using glass and glue stick they’d fall over. Printed a successful set on the first try with the pp bed. Some of the single layers can be a pain to remove. Like brims and the prime line at the start of the print. Prime line tends to come of in tiny pieces rather than a nice long line. No complaints other than that. I wipe down with 99% alcohol between prints and that’s it. I’m glad I’m through with the glue stick. But now I need to find something to do with the 50 remaining glue sticks
I print everything in petg. I use green gate. They’re a little higher than overture and all of the other imported petg at $30 1kg roll but it prints great. Sometimes they have some marked down with minor deficiencies like color for $20. It took several prints of overture to get settings right. I think I made two prints with green gate and haven’t touched settings much since then. On large prints with high infill I have minor corner lifts unless I use a brim. Lately I’ve been using gyroid and rarely need to go over 20%.
I think I read somewhere that petg won’t stick to a build plate that pla has been on unless it’s been completely cleaned. Something about the sugar from pla or something like that.
Last edited by Dsltech1; 10-31-2021 at 10:22 AM.
Interesting....I've never tried anything but PLA and PLA composite (the satins), so I'm curious.....what's the story for Petg?
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