Making that Bullet Collator

[GWS]

I'd print the slide and the outlet first and see where you are....Then adust or make adapters to make it fit. TylerR does have an under-collator version of his prox switch that might take less vertical space than mine even. I tried to print his switch housing but the print settings made a crappy job of it....but with my new settings it might work. I was going to print his version out to see how much space it saves, but haven't made it yet. He has obviously, and can share that......I really curious how long it is. Prox works simpler, he will tell you.

I was just looking at their video at Dillon where the press swivels in a circle.....it seems to me that the tube at the vertical coming out of the press frame is designed to let the tube swivel. That helps.....the plastic standoff between the tube and the clear case tubing could be lengthened or cut down. (by 3d printing it)

[TylerR]

I don't think trying to use the clear tube is going to work with the post that is designed for the Dillon feeder, because it is not just a matter of getting the height correct. If it was you could just cut the tube. It also has to line up perfectly horizontally so it is a straight shot to the press, and the Dillon feeder is much bigger then my standard feeder. So it's not going to come out far enough to line up. The Mongo would maybe work, but I have never seen anyone try it.

My suggestion would be to use the springs for case feeding. That is what I do.

[nhyrum]

It might not be the simplest solution, but maybe creating an offset mount would help? That way you could move the collator out enough to get the drop to line up, you could also use that offset mount to get the vertical alignment right. I think all that would be needed would be the dimensions on the Dillon collator, post to output and either an angle measurement, to then figure out how high the Dillon feeder is and have the offset mount add wherever is needed. Probably easier said than done, and a spring would do the same job

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[nhyrum]

I found some red satin I can live with.....came in....printed the 9mm feed die with it. Turned out pretty good.....might have liked a darker red, but it pretty......ah Christmassy at least.

So I think I'm done with pistol! Yup they all work 100% Very impressed TylerR.




What brand is the red? Overture Satin Red. I'm printing perfect prints now with my Creality for these Feeder Dies with no stringing inside the tubes. Settings on the slicer are as follows:

Bed 65C Nozzle 215C
Retraction Speed 80
Retraction Travel 1.5
Retraction Amount 6
Minimum Retraction .02
Retraction Restart Speed 50
No Z hop
Walls 2
Layer height .12mm
top and bottom solid layers 2 (I may try 3 top layers)

I ran the next smaller drill bit in the tubes....just ran them up and down 3 or 4 times and the inserts slide nice. I did print the 9mm using the "set" .stl to make my Gcode. I still think running them one at a time is even better.....but it takes longer.....this print took 6 hours....Am going to start printing the medium down tube and the #10 spring adapter for this 9mm feeder die next.....they take an hour 40 and an hour 10 in that order......will print them separate to get the smoother cylinders....I mean I don't have to stand there and watch! (I used to when the printer was new....for a while )

I'm thinking I'm going to ask around looking for some brass to test the 357 sig on my .38 and my 9mm feeder dies. May not find any....not too popular around here.

How fast (travel speed) do you print the dies, and what about normal stuff like the plates and smaller odds and ends? I printed three 300 blackout plate at 60 mm/second, and I feel like I could have gone faster...

Do you print the tall skinny things like the dies on a raft? I just know I've had way too many things like that fall over halfway through printing...

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[TylerR]

It might not be the simplest solution, but maybe creating an offset mount would help? That way you could move the collator out enough to get the drop to line up, you could also use that offset mount to get the vertical alignment right. I think all that would be needed would be the dimensions on the Dillon collator, post to output and either an angle measurement, to then figure out how high the Dillon feeder is and have the offset mount add wherever is needed. Probably easier said than done, and a spring would do the same job

It definitely could be done. For me just not something worth the time spent.

I actually use the same case feeder for my 650 as I do for my APP. Just twist the adapter off one and put it on the other. Takes two seconds. I would not be able to do that with straight rigid tube.

[nhyrum]

It definitely could be done. For me just not something worth the time spent.

I actually use the same case feeder for my 650 as I do for my APP. Just twist the adapter off one and put it on the other. Takes two seconds. I would not be able to do that with straight rigid tube.

Yeah, I can definitely see it not being worth it.

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[TylerR]

Figured I would add this pic I just took as an example setup with springs. This is using my Mongo collator.

[GWS]

How fast (travel speed) do you print the dies, and what about normal stuff like the plates and smaller odds and ends? I printed three 300 blackout plate at 60 mm/second, and I feel like I could have gone faster...

Do you print the tall skinny things like the dies on a raft? I just know I've had way too many things like that fall over halfway through printing...

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Travel Speed is 70mm/second (default setting for IdeaMaker) I've never changed that setting.

I never use rafts....well ok I tried it once on the starwars helmet for my Grandson.....print failed, so I printed it again without.

When I used Creality's treated glass bed, I had all kinds of trouble with lifting. That went totally away when I bought TylerR's recommended polypropylene bed sanded once in a while with 220grit sandpaper (twice...so that'd be once a year ).....but I wipe it with 99% rubbing alcohol at the beginning of EVERY print. Since then, Zero problems with lift....and zero need for rafts. I just printed another feeder die today....no raft...no spaghetti from that little tall skinny falling over......just is not a problem anymore.

Question for TylerR.......what's the best way of stretching a spring (evenly) so you can see through it, which makes it screw on your threaded parts? Sorry for the typo on Mongo......again. I know better, I just don't have the brain/finger connection I used to have.

[TylerR]

Travel Speed is 70mm/second (default setting for IdeaMaker) I've never changed that setting.

I never use rafts....well ok I tried it once on the starwars helmet for my Grandson.....print failed, so I printed it again without.

When I used Creality's treated glass bed, I had all kinds of trouble with lifting. That went totally away when I bought TylerR's recommended polypropylene bed sanded once in a while with 220grit sandpaper (twice...so that'd be once a year ).....but I wipe it with 99% rubbing alcohol at the beginning of EVERY print. Since then, Zero problems with lift....and zero need for rafts. I just printed another feeder die today....no raft...no spaghetti from that little tall skinny falling over......just is not a problem anymore.

Question for TylerR.......what's the best way of stretching a spring (evenly) so you can see through it, which makes it screw on your threaded parts? Sorry for the typo on Mongo......again. I know better, I just don't have the brain/finger connection I used to have.

Good question. I connect one end of the spring in my vice, and a pair of vice grips to the other. Put on a safety glasses and maybe a football helmet (haha) to protect myself if something gives way. Then I walk across the room until I can feel the spring give just slightly. Take the pressure off and see how much you have managed to stretch it. I find there is a very fine line between getting no stretch at all, and too much. So I try to take it slow. And then of course I clip off the very ends of the spring because those coils are ruined in the process.

Oh and yes, polypropylene is master race print surface
Makes good prints so easy, a caveman can do it.

[nhyrum]

I can't remember what I put on my glass plate, but it's something like 2 or 3 mil thick kapton or something. It is a polymer of some sort. I got it early on trying to print petg. It had an adhesive on one side, so I suck it to the bottom of the textured glass creality plate. Stuff sticks to it really well when it's hot. So much so I once had to heat the little scraper with a torch to get stuff off

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[GWS]

Thanks TylerR........I will try that tomorrow. I've tried stretching one, but it didn't turnout that uniform......hate that with all these fancy feed dies....ruins the perfection.....we can't have that......

I've lost the source of the polypropylene beds......you still have them to share? These beds are thick beds maybe 3/16" thick.

Picture below: (just clamped to the original glass bed)

[mktacop]

Figured I would add this pic I just took as an example setup with springs. This is using my Mongo collator.

Thank you sir. What is the part that I circled in your photo?

[TylerR]

Thank you sir. What is the part that I circled in your photo?

That is the drop tube. With the proximity sensor and spring adapter on top.

[mktacop]

Thank you sir. Does that piece fit directly into the colored plastic piece that comes with a Dillon caliber conversion, or do I need to print another adaptor?

[TylerR]

Thanks TylerR........I will try that tomorrow. I've tried stretching one, but it didn't turnout that uniform......hate that with all these fancy feed dies....ruins the perfection.....we can't have that......

I've lost the source of the polypropylene beds......you still have them to share? These beds are thick beds maybe 3/16" thick.

Picture below: (just clamped to the original glass bed)

I have gotten mine at Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[TylerR]

Thank you sir. Does that piece fit directly into the colored plastic piece that comes with a Dillon caliber conversion, or do I need to print another adaptor?

That is the "Dillon_Drop_Tube_Adapter". There is pretty much an adapter for everything at this point.

[mktacop]

Thank you again!

[TylerR]

Thank you again!

You bet. Also check out this funky part. "1. Mounts - Case_Feed_Bracket". It keeps the plastic insert from falling out.

[mktacop]

You bet. Also check out this funky part. "1. Mounts - Case_Feed_Bracket". It keeps the plastic insert from falling out.

Cool! Thank you!


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[GWS]

Good question. I connect one end of the spring in my vice, and a pair of vice grips to the other. Put on a safety glasses and maybe a football helmet (haha) to protect myself if something gives way. Then I walk across the room until I can feel the spring give just slightly. Take the pressure off and see how much you have managed to stretch it. I find there is a very fine line between getting no stretch at all, and too much. So I try to take it slow. And then of course I clip off the very ends of the spring because those coils are ruined in the process.

Oh and yes, polypropylene is master race print surface
Makes good prints so easy, a caveman can do it.

Well that makes good sense. I'm thinking I'll screw a bolt into it a 1/2"...then vice it. That what you do? I still have pieces of the Hornady spring left....too short for anything.....unless I stretch it.....seeing bullets/cases through it is good anyway.

You mentioned to nhyrum about using it on your case feeder....I have wondered about cases with rims like .357 and .44 mag whether the rims could find unwanted purchase between. Guess that would depend on how much air you have between.......and what about long rifle cartridges.....no problems with those?

On the poly p......totally agree! and thanks for the link.....I've passed it on already....