Thank you GWS. A lot of this project would not be where it is without your wisdom and input. I appreciate that, and want everyone to understand how this progression works. A large part of the improvements come for you and others and it's important to recognize that.Originally Posted by GWS
OK Fella's.... Lets talk Nuts.... and bolts...
What size Nuts and bolts are you using to put the clutch together..... I started out with M3x20 but now using the new clutch assembly my lock nut spins in the locking piece.... and i can't tighten it.
I will go buy whatever.... I just want to be able to get my clutch plates with the handle without fighting it too badly
FYI... I rolled out a quick 1300 9mm using two Feeders and KC10Kevins Mounts on my brand new Dillon XL750
Hi,
I believe the clutch was designed for #6-32 x 1/2" screws and nuts. That's what I use and they work perfectly.
Ed
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Growing old is mandatory, growing up is totally optional!
Ed you are just using regular nuts, not lock nuts, right?
i believe lock nuts but may need longer for the cover to be used
I use locknuts on mine.
Since there are several flavors of clutch covers you need to let us know which clutch housing and which cover you intend to use. TylerR's clutch housing has changed height-wise in the last month too, so first measure the housing height you printed out, and which cover you want to use.
The one common factor for each of them is 6-32 machine screws, locknuts, and cover nuts. Machine screw length is another variable depending on which clutch cover....if any. The earliest clutch cover was just a cover and 1/2" machine screws were used. Then came handles to help you pull the plate out....but all of that is optional. There are optional rings too. Guess we need to post a guide to add to the guide. Or simplify and only have TylerR's choice....but then he has two......too.
BTW, Nylok lock nuts are necessary somewhere ... whether in the middle or over the cover.....otherwise the machine screws will loosen. Even my early square nuts I used in early renditions of TylerR's clutch needed nyloks at the top over the cover. Since T.R. made hex reservoirs in the clutch rings, those became obsolete. So now I use nylocs in the clutch ring reservoirs and regular nuts on top of the handle........Ed's design doesn't use a separate handle, his ring .... is the handle.
Annucite......first step is get 6-32 hardware.....if you happen to have an electrical stripper, most of them have a 6/32 shear built in. That makes machine screw length the least problem easily fixed. But learn to use it: Screw in the screw from the correct side so that after the cut you unscrew the tip through the threads and preserve a starting thread.
Last edited by GWS; 04-06-2021 at 11:52 PM.
I only have one version of a handle, but it can be mounted in two ways. Either longer #6 screws, or small machine screws. Or are you counting the cover for the really tall plates?Or simplify and only have TylerR's choice....but then he has two......too.
Yes I was! Now that you have the very tall housing, that opens up even more possibilities.....even for really short plates! Just make an extra tall ring to match and add either your handle or mine.
Above is an early plate for me, with square nuts in the middle and nylocs on top....but with captured nut rings the next picture is how I do it now. Nylocs in the middle.
Some may not like the big centers....but I do. No struggle at all to lift a plate, on a thick plate or a thin one.
Looking at the picture above, you'll notice the hex spindle sticks up on the short housing....there are so many options, you could use the captured red ring with a nyloc....then add the green ring (original) over that, to level the field, then add a plate or if using a longer screw..... a handle secured with regular nuts. The long ring I used with TylerR's tall housing (pictured in back with the tall housing) is this:Attachment 280934
Whatever you do, a clutch beats the tar out of the clutchless plates pictured behind the two new skinnies.
I like and use Ed's rendition too....totally different equally effective.
BTW, if you ever print out the .223 rifle bullet plate learn from my experience.....do ridges for every other hole....or the last few will be slow to drop....they just bounce from ridge to ridge until you get finally get lucky.....or give up.
TylerR's??? .... ditto .... but he has pictures of his handles......I'll let him show em off.
Last edited by GWS; 04-06-2021 at 06:25 PM.
I don't think my xy are off based on the calibration cube I just printed, see my post reply to Tyler. I think the problem is the slicer. I sliced the drop tube using Cura. However when I sliced a different part in Prusaslicer the printed dimensions were only off by 0.1mm not 0.4mm. Unfortunately, when I try to slice the drop tube using Prusa to verify the issue the gcode file will not print afterwards. The printer will run the autohome and bed level sequence then just sits there after completing the autolevel. I've never had an issue jumping between slicers with any part.
Any additional suggestions would be appreciated. The weird thing is the other parts I have printed for the bullet feeder don't have clearance or dimension issues.
There is no question, Ed's solution has the most styleI like and use Ed's rendition too....totally different equally effective.
BTW, if you ever print out the .223 rifle bullet plate learn from my experience.....do ridges for every other hole....or the last few will be slow to drop....they just bounce from ridge to ridge until you get finally get lucky.....or give up.
TylerR's??? .... ditto .... but he has pictures of his handles......I'll let him show em off.
Maybe I ought to do a three color .... embedded black tires with white Goodyear markings....
With Eds you DO have to print different height rings for different plates....finally I'm down to one set of parts for every plate thickness thanks to your tall clutch housing, and a ring that matches.
Time to show yours off......
Last edited by GWS; 04-06-2021 at 11:55 PM.
Haha. I will get some pics tomorrow. Mine is more or less a copy cat of your (imagine that). Just that you can mount it using either the #6 main screws that are part of the clutch, or you can just use machine screws to attach it independent of the clutch. I will see If I can demonstrate the difference with some pics.Maybe I ought to do a three color .... embedded black tires with white Goodyear markings....
With Eds you DO have to print different height rings for different plates....finally I'm doing one for every plate thanks to your tall clutch housing.
Time to show yours off......
See, my very long post above is a good example of band width waste that will soon become irrelevant.....
GWS are you wasting site resources?? (Ok only ar15.com guys will get that reference)
In all honestly, stop selling yourself short. I have never read one of your posts and said "well I already knew that". Every thing you add either educates me or makes me question what I am doing. Both are equally important. Trust me there are probably new people to the thread who saw your pics and were like damn, I didn't know I could do that.
So I had an amazon gift card as a "bonus" from work. Decided to go for another printer. E5+. Here it is next to its smaller cousin.
nice going to try the new bigger main bodySo I had an amazon gift card as a "bonus" from work. Decided to go for another printer. E5+. Here it is next to its smaller cousin.
Heck yeah!nice going to try the new bigger main body
hey bud could you fit the bigger body with a 555 style motor mount was thinking of trying it myself
you bet, If you want to test it. Give me a little bit and I will throw it in the downloads.hey bud could you fit the bigger body with a 555 style motor mount was thinking of trying it myself
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