I am trying a version created by Andrea Roccati on his youtube channel and thingiverse files. My printer is fairly small and I couldn't print many of the other larger 3d printed versions.
Here is my first testing run. Using a 15rpm motor which works well here with the bullets but with the case setup is too fast. Going to try a 6rpm motor next.
https://youtu.be/7waxCZSyEbk
Credits to Andrea Roccati
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NS7eX6uU6wI
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3438003
none burned out all working well sort of see notes belowOriginally Posted by Assnolax
I am running the jgy 360 in
12v 2rpm (great power but slow on the feeding i get ahead of it on the progressives)
12v 5rpm (not bad still a tad slow can still get ahead on progressive)
12 20rpm (to fast at 20rpm but still good enough torque when slowed down to 10rpm or so right speed light on torque)
also running the 555 frame motor (gooooobs of torque)
12v 90rpm this one was a generic from amazon ($22) the range of these motors is 12v 10rpm to 90rpm unfortunately on amazon this seller just puts the 90rpm in, the other sellers that have the 10 and 20rpm ones charge $37 plus so at 90 rpm great torque but slowing it down to 10 or so waaay low on torque
12v 10rpm (almost perfect can run 6-10 rpm i have found the best range for the feeders but $37 each
i have a 12v 10rpm jgy370 to test just have to find the time i think unless you are loading down the feeder to much this will be the best of both worlds and $10 - 18 each
Yes I have one. It uses this mirror https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1.
This week's project was to convert my big and little rifle plates to a clutch version.....a bigger task than I first envisioned. I thought you guys might like a head's up, as it turned out well, once I allowed it to evolve naturally....
You see I didn't notice that TylerR changed the main clutch and made it tall! (I admit that I was scratching my head), but the picture below explains why it's necessary.......look at the hex motor adapter sticking up on the old one.....and that's with the bottom against the printer bed. In the collator the hex adapter sticks up even further using my Dayton motor.
Look at how the rings evolved.....original on the left....the red one is the one TylerR added a nut keeper to.....then in the back is a tall one I created to go with Tylers tall clutch......why? So that the handle can fit flush and there are no voids....all smooth as a baby's butt.
So this is how it turned out.....
And the best part? Same parts fit perfect on both small and large thin rifle plates!
Red is for .223, Green is .308. Finally! My rifle case collator is finished....okay....for now I suppose...tinkering never really stops does it....
TylerR.....the tall ring was made by uploading your ring with the nut keeper (stl file) converting it to a solid then pulling the sides up flush with the nut towers....then pulling the whole face another 6mm.......that's it. (in Design Spark)
I just dropped nylocs into the two deep holes, then screwed in the 6-32 flat head machine screws (1 1/8"long), then the top nuts over the lid can be regular nuts.
I was going to try out the second set of holes TylerR Provided for cap screws in the clutch body, instead of using longer machine screws and exposed nuts, but he has a different center to center on those two......so there was no choice using my handles. But for people who use his, there's that option.
Last edited by GWS; 03-29-2021 at 12:59 PM.
Finally got time to print a panel that incorporates both case and bullet motor speed control for a micro switch. I also was able to alter the drop tube to fit my Lee Progressive.
very nice! I've never seen connectors like those, and meters even....what did those parts cost? Still trying to wrap my head around the curcuits needed in the box.How big is the box?
BTW what Plastic are you using?.....I do like your pure glossy red. I've tried two reds and don't much like either.....
Welcome to Cast Forum and this bullet feeder thread!
Last edited by GWS; 03-29-2021 at 01:02 PM.
great job on the loadmaster case feeder chute
do you have the stl if tyler could convert it to the standard tube that holds the light sensor it would be awesome
I do have one for the Light and Switch.... I started out with the light and went to a switch. Attached is the .stl #10 tubes
FYI that on the shoot is a bullet counter that actually counts each "Finished" cartridge as it goes through the counter and not the motion of the handle. I made a short video of it working...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Z7sgvrZ78o
Last edited by SoggyCashew; 03-29-2021 at 08:32 PM.
the video is a great help never thought of putting a counter on the press do you have a video of the case feeder working mine is a bit different but works ill try to post a vid of how i did it
thanks
The Case Feeder I've been working on, even works in a worst case scenario, using both .223 and .308......but I had to make a new part to knock over "soldiers" (see the green thing bolted to the right side of the base). To make the worst case, I stacked a tube-full of .223 cases on purpose....IOW's I placed vertically 4 cases in each plate slot.....and turned it on.
The clutch was set very loose, and it still finished in spite of reoccurring soldiers......required no push from me.....I just held the camera.
I like it. As a copy cat modification I could make my sweeper arm be further away from the slide plate/drop hole, but still have it snap in where it does now. As always, your ideas make me think on how to improve on my own.
You can try.....it's your rodeo. One good result, was that even screwed in and permanent, the plates easily go in and go out, and don't require me removing or even loosening it to change plates....really like that unexpected feature....
I tapered the shelf and made it thick and strong where I might have a "hard case" pun intended.....
Thinking of Ed and his 30-06's, he might want to add more holes to raise it higher. My first try failed, when they just bound up rather than tipped.....raising it cured that instantly. 308 and 223 aren't enough different in height to make any difference, but 30-06 is another matter.
Attachment 280615
Last edited by GWS; 03-31-2021 at 08:29 PM.
cool part i was having trouble with the 223 i like itYou can try.....it's your rodeo. One good result, was that even screwed in and permanent, the plates easily go in and go out easy, and don't require me removing it to change plates....really like that unexpected feature....
I tapered the shelf and made it thick and strong where I might have a "hard case" pun intended.....
Thinking of Ed and his 30-06's, he might want to add more holes to raise it higher. My first try failed, when they just bound up rather than tipped.....raising it cured that instantly. 308 and 223 aren't enough different in height to make any difference, but 30-06 is another matter.
Hi GWS,You can try.....it's your rodeo. One good result, was that even screwed in and permanent, the plates easily go in and go out, and don't require me removing or even loosening it to change plates....really like that unexpected feature....
I tapered the shelf and made it thick and strong where I might have a "hard case" pun intended.....
Thinking of Ed and his 30-06's, he might want to add more holes to raise it higher. My first try failed, when they just bound up rather than tipped.....raising it cured that instantly. 308 and 223 aren't enough different in height to make any difference, but 30-06 is another matter.
Great idea and video...I'll give it a try. I should be able to modify the STL to put in two new holes for "tall" cases (i.e. .30-06, .270, etc.) Based on your video, it looks like the sweeper's most effective height is at the case neck. Did you find that to be the case?
Ed
______________________________________________
Growing old is mandatory, growing up is totally optional!
How about long slots instead of holes? Then the height would be adjustable for just about anything.
Ed: I was thinking more high enough to overcome the natural stability of the plate slot depth than aiming for the necks....because it can't have that for both .223 and .308 obviously....yet it works for both. IOW's the taller the brass the less vertically stable four soldiers are, so less height is necessary. I don't think you have to raise it up that tall for more unstable heights. I'd personally be more inclined with 30-06 to have it below the neck transition. Sometimes the soldiers are leaning....see the video again.
What I was shooting for was raising it up high enough to topple 4 stacked .223 soldiers easily, and see if it would be high enough for .308......it was.
My Autocad software allowed me to just slice the vertical in two heights, erase the middle, and lower the top (with the holes) to the lower slice, then combine. That was easier, because I didn't think ahead and save the center radial cylinders erased from the vertical wall.
Doing it again, I'd make the "spokes" (lines radiating from the center) and copy them up and down the sides.....THEN separate causing multiple holes.
Answering TylerR: Slots IMO would be less handy than a column of holes being harder to repeat a position.....but I guess you could find a position for a caliber and make a mark there to find the spot the next time. (but then I was born lazy)
I LOVE your clutch! That made it possible. That made it worth it having to print two more plates....
Last edited by GWS; 04-01-2021 at 04:44 PM.
And visa versa.....
Absolutely!And visa versa.....
Up and running.... on the new 750. Just need to do some wire cleanup
Oh man........ looking good!
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| BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
| BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
| BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
| C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
| HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
| PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
| LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
| GC | Gas Check |
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