Making that Bullet Collator

[TylerR]

I assume the general consensus is I should regenerate the stock collator plates to use the new slip clutch?

[RedlegEd]

What temp are you running that at? I am printing a temp tower now... and It HATES 200 so far!

Hi,
I'm using the same filament with a 0.4mm nozzle, and I'm printing the initial layer at 220°/55°, then dropping to 210°/55° for the rest on an Ender 3 or CR-6SE and I'm having good success with that.
Ed

[TylerR]

Hi,
I'm using the same filament with a 0.4mm nozzle, and I'm printing the initial layer at 220°/55°, then dropping to 210°/55° for the rest on an Ender 3 or CR-6SE and I'm having good success with that.
Ed

I use 220/80 and then 210/70. I am also running my printer in a cold basement, so I have to go a little hotter then probably most people.

[Macscotts56]

I assume the general consensus is I should regenerate the stock collator plates to use the new slip clutch?

Yes, that would be appreciated and people can also use the plate generator as well. I just downloaded the most recent folder from the shared downloads link and the Collator Plate Generator does not have the clutch option. I did a text search and didn't find the option. Has anyone else downloaded the updated version yet?

[TylerR]

Yes, that would be appreciated and people can also use the plate generator as well. I just downloaded the most recent folder from the shared downloads link and the Collator Plate Generator does not have the clutch option. I did a text search and didn't find the option. Has anyone else downloaded the updated version yet?

I posted the files temporarily but took them back down in preparation of posting the entire complete package. My hex clutch works great so just need to re-gen all the plates, then I will post it.

[lablover]

Well here is a combo video of your 190's and the slip clutch in action.


Attachment 276357

Attachment 276361

I haven’t had the time to look at the files but the plate is the only change you made to make those 190s to work? The current ramp is the same? Looks outstanding!

[TylerR]

I haven’t had the time to look at the files but the plate is the only change you made to make those 190s to work? The current ramp is the same? Looks outstanding!

Yes, everything is the same except the collator plate. I tightened everything up. Dropped the shaft hole from 10mm to 8.5mm. Increased the plate diameter to 180.5mm. Changed the caliber from 11.5 to 11.2mm. Played around with different slide plates to see which one they liked. #9 works good or #10 pulled out slightly. I also used #12 spring adapters and sanded and used acetone on them to make them as smooth as possible.

Like I said, I have the 160's getting to the drop hole fine, they just tend to get jammed somewhere else on the way down.

[GWS]

okay......guess I'm the only dumb guy.....what's the physics involved? What do the plates look like without the center clutch installed? I know it's friction....but between what? The two bolts screw into nuts underneath?

So this means all plates the same.....only the clutch changes between hex and pin? That'd be a good thing for sure.

[Anuccite]

okay......guess I'm the only dumb guy.....what's the physics involved? What do the plates look like without the center clutch installed? I know it's friction....but between what? The two bolts screw into nuts underneath?

So this means all plates the same.....only the clutch changes between hex and pin? That'd be a good thing for sure.

Here ya go... I was messing with the generator eariler... looks like same for Hex and Pin

[TylerR]

okay......guess I'm the only dumb guy.....what's the physics involved? What do the plates look like without the center clutch installed? I know it's friction....but between what? The two bolts screw into nuts underneath?

So this means all plates the same.....only the clutch changes between hex and pin? That'd be a good thing for sure.

Here ya go... I was messing with the generator eariler... looks like same for Hex and Pin

Correct and correct

[lablover]

Yes, everything is the same except the collator plate. I tightened everything up. Dropped the shaft hole from 10mm to 8.5mm. Increased the plate diameter to 180.5mm. Changed the caliber from 11.5 to 11.2mm. Played around with different slide plates to see which one they liked. #9 works good or #10 pulled out slightly. I also used #12 spring adapters and sanded and used acetone on them to make them as smooth as possible.

Like I said, I have the 160's getting to the drop hole fine, they just tend to get jammed somewhere else on the way down.

Those 160s are just evil! Lol. Can’t thank you enough for the detailed work. Look forward to trying it all.

[TylerR]

Those 160s are just evil! Lol. Can’t thank you enough for the detailed work. Look forward to trying it all.

You're welcome my friend. Even with the 190's I suggest you smooth out any part that they pass thru. I used some 220 grit and then went to 320, then used some acetone. The edges of the boolit tend to want to stick on any ridge left by the printer.

[lablover]

You're welcome my friend. Even with the 190's I suggest you smooth out any part that they pass thru. I used some 220 grit and then went to 320, then used some acetone. The edges of the boolit tend to want to stick on any ridge left by the printer.

Outstanding tip. I hope to have some time to get some prints done. I did a print screen of your print settings

[TylerR]

Outstanding tip. I hope to have some time to get some prints done. I did a print screen of your print settings

New version is posted. All the slip clutch files are in the Collator Plates folder. Let me know how it goes.

[HuskJ]

Yes, everything is the same except the collator plate. I tightened everything up. Dropped the shaft hole from 10mm to 8.5mm. Increased the plate diameter to 180.5mm. Changed the caliber from 11.5 to 11.2mm. Played around with different slide plates to see which one they liked. #9 works good or #10 pulled out slightly. I also used #12 spring adapters and sanded and used acetone on them to make them as smooth as possible.

Like I said, I have the 160's getting to the drop hole fine, they just tend to get jammed somewhere else on the way down.

I mailed the 160 flat base no nube groove ones today

[o416]

New version is posted. All the slip clutch files are in the Collator Plates folder. Let me know how it goes.

Proceed with manual update? Or wait for feedback?

[TylerR]

Proceed with manual update? Or wait for feedback?

Based my testing I would say it's pretty damn solid. Print a new plate and slip clutch and let me know if you have any questions. You just need a couple #6 x 1/2" screws and lock nuts.

I am back to messing with the ramp now and other things because I have not given up on lablover's 160's just yet.

Oh and don't forget to use supports for the collator plates. Other wise you are going to get a big spaghetti mess on the bottom side of the rotor.

[TylerR]

I mailed the 160 flat base no nube groove ones today

I will keep an eye out for them. These are .45's as well? I wonder how much different they are from lablovers.

[TylerR]

I have put some thought in to the hex version of the new slip clutch regarding the set pin sticking out. With all the variations out there and the fact that it takes away from the limited surface area, I am not going to make any attempt to add a slot. If you are using hex the best thing to do is grind the pin down so when it is screwed in it sits flush.

[GWS]

I'm assuming the clutch is printed with PLA. And the bolts are tightened just so, so the thing turns the plate normally but allowed to slip when there is a bind. So then it continues turning, during the bind, at the friction-held joint.

So, since we know that PLA melts with heat applied as happens under friction, how long will this last before a new plate and clutch have to be printed........or what's to keep the molten joint from fusing as does every layer as we print with PLA? So am I over thinking this?