Making that Bullet Collator

[o416]

Does anyone have any comments or feedback on my post from a few pages back about the drop hole enhancement? I am willing to put the effort in and make the change if we can get agreement it would be helpful.

"I posted this before, but this shows the base concept. Swapable parts that can be designed to satisfy whatever solution is needed. Pre-drop of longer bullets, or a ramp that slowly drops the bullet as it approaches the hole"

Attachment 273333

The concept is super cool but keep it on the backburner for now. The current main body works solid and I wouldn't print a new one just for that feature. My 2 cents

[o416]

Thank you sir.
Amazon Canada does not have that item. They have Overture filament but not the Digital Blue.

I used Lake Blue from AMZ3D and it is available in Canada via Amazon; in stock too!
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Check mine here:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1HKh...ew?usp=sharing

[o416]

Just had a chance to download the new manual. All I have to say is WOW, great job. Well organized, pictures look great. Over all a great manual for a great project.
I was reading that you took out all reference to DAA. Not to be a pain in the A$$ but, isn't that a picture of the DAA motor on the from cover? Or is that a different one? If it is the DAA one you might want to change the picture. Might as well sever all ties to DAA so there is NO problem at all. Just thinking here. Other than that a great job by all.

Thanks man The DAA motor isn't made by them so it's not like they can claim copyright, or whatever, to it. The motor is a McMaster from Grainger.

The only reference to DAA in the manual is that the drop tubes can fit on them

[TylerR]

I would just to say, lots of great feedback on the manual. Every suggestion helps make it stronger. Now if I could just get more people to start updating the slide plate / bullet caliber chart.....

[o416]

I would just to say, lots of great feedback on the manual. Every suggestion helps make it stronger. Now if I could just get more people to start updating the slide plate / bullet caliber chart.....

haha

[o416]

I still never got an answer about the motor power passing through the proximity sensor, and if it can handle the amperage of the larger motors. Anyone have any input on this?

For the proximity sensor notes, should I mention 8mm for GWS and 14mm for yours as a recommendation? Or 14mm for both?

[TylerR]

For the proximity sensor notes, should I mention 8mm for GWS and 14mm for yours as a recommendation? Or 14mm for both?

Good question. One has a further reach, is more expensive but should cover all needs. it is also quite a bit shorter. The other one is cheaper. Mine should be arriving tomorrow, so I will be in a better place to compare the two more objectively.

Edited to add for those who care: One is made in the USA (Maybe? who knows these days?), the other China.

[Andar]

Side question with for folks who now use TylerR's collator and used to use an AM collator; what are you doing with your old AM collator?

Ammo Mike is my bullet feeder, TylerR is my case feeder. Both using the jgy370 motors so the increased size works better for the lighter cases.

[GWS]

That generally all makes sense to me, and a lot of times it's not till I sit down and start wiring things up that it all comes together. That being said, If you wouldn't mind creating a schematic in paint to help visualize That would help tremendously. And it could also be added to the new amazing user manual we now have.

The three wire vs 2 wire proximity sensor makes it appear harder than it is. The stupid third wire just adds a step. See the bottom note in the picture below. Let me know if this clears it up for you.

[img]

That generally all makes sense to me, and a lot of times it's not till I sit down and start wiring things up that it all comes together. That being said, If you wouldn't mind creating a schematic in paint to help visualize That would help tremendously. And it could also be added to the new amazing user manual we now have.

The three wire vs 2 wire proximity sensor makes it appear harder than it is. The stupid third wire just adds a step. See the bottom note in the picture below. Let me know if this clears it up for you.



The higher the Amperage rating on the power supply, the more stuff you can run....voltage stays at 12V as long as leads are in parallel......IOW's all positives together, all negatives together. I have had no trouble with the big Dayton motor and the sensor in parallel.

BTW, I discovered that the black wire just adds a resister to the circuit for some purpose known only to the manufacturer. I've tried it with and without the black wire, and it works either way, just fine........just a guess, but maybe with the resister the sensitivity changes? more or less, I haven't tested that theory so who knows.

What's weird is that this "suggested" wiring works, but it DOES go through the speed control......I'm thinking I'm going to try wiring it direct to the power supply leads instead and leave off the black wire. What I don't want is the speed control to reduce sensitivity. Testing.......

[TylerR]

GWS very helpful, thanks! Seems like one more thing we can get in the manual for wiring up these proximity sensors.

[Rage 01]

I used Lake Blue from AMZ3D and it is available in Canada via Amazon; in stock too!
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Check mine here:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1HKh...ew?usp=sharing

Thankx for the info. I did find Overture in PetG Electric Blue color looks real close as well. The price is cheaper than PLA ATM. I don't mind printing in PetG.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B08...B6YPLO1C&psc=1

I know Overture prints well, have never printed with AMZ3D before. There is always a first. I should start writing these colors down and make a list of which colors match the best with the appropriate loading system. And the stats on which temps they print best at. I do for everything else.

[TylerR]

Thankx for the info. I did find Overture in PetG Electric Blue color looks real close as well. The price is cheaper than PLA ATM. I don't mind printing in PetG.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B08...B6YPLO1C&psc=1

I know Overture prints well, have never printed with AMZ3D before. There is always a first. I should start writing these colors down and make a list of which colors match the best with the appropriate loading system. And the stats on which temps they print best at. I do for everything else.

Such a list would be handy reference for anyone working on this project. I can say with confidence that both the overture blue and black PLA+ work very very well when printed at high temps (70c/210c)

[Macscotts56]

What you guys think about the new manual cover? lol

It's awesome!

[o416]

Can you guys test if the plate generator is working for long rifle? When I set the values, the plate disappears.

[o416]

So I printed the wall extender and for some reason it seems short compared to the sample pictures in the ZIP file.

Here is how mine looks:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Hzl...ew?usp=sharing

That look right?

[Rage 01]

Such a list would be handy reference for anyone working on this project. I can say with confidence that both the overture blue and black PLA+ work very very well when printed at high temps (70c/110c)

I am assuming that is 210c not 110c?
Which printer and hotend are you using?

Something like this would work? I would make it a little more fancy when we get more input. You think there is enough information there for people?

Thankx
Raymond

[TylerR]

So I printed the wall extender and for some reason it seems short compared to the sample pictures in the ZIP file.

Here is how mine looks:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Hzl...ew?usp=sharing

That look right?

It is. You are going to want to just slide it to the far right side anyway, because that is where all the brass will try to escape from.

[TylerR]

I am assuming that is 210c not 110c?
Which printer and hotend are you using?

Something like this would work? I would make it a little more fancy when we get more input. You think there is enough information there for people?

Thankx
Raymond

210 yes. It is a stock Ender 5.

[Rage 01]

I have started to put together a chart of the different types of Filament people are using and what machine they are using it on.
This is to help people on deciding which Brand, Color and where to get filament. It also helps with the temperatures that are being used and on what printer.

The temperatures will vary depending on which printer you have. You should always print a temp tower for each different roll of filament you are going to use.

So here is where you guys come in. Can you please send me the following information so I can get the ball rolling.

Filament Brand:
Filament type:
Filament color:
bed temp:
nozzle temp:
hot end type:
printer type:
nozzle size:
where you purchased the filament from:

You can see an example on post #2947

Thankx all.

[TylerR]

So here is where you guys come in. Can you please send me the following information so I can get the ball rolling.

Filament Brand: Overture
Filament type: PLA+
Filament color: Blue /Black
bed temp: 80 / 70 (Polypropylene bed sanded with 220 grit on top of glass bed)
nozzle temp: 220 / 210
hot end type: Stock
printer type: Ender 5
nozzle size: .4mm
where you purchased the filament from: Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1