Making that Bullet Collator

[bigmike111]

So, I went home for lunch and wanted to check out how the micro-switch drop tube was coming along and discovered this masterpiece:



Ahhh, oh well. Adjusted the bed and started over, should be completed in a few more hours.

Other than the obvious differences, what is the preference between the switch and the light sensor? I feel like with the switch it would be easier to change drop tubes and not having to worry about the printed connectors wearing out and less things to go wrong.

[Macscotts56]

For anyone who downloads the latest, I added a License.txt file. This project will be licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial 4.0 International License.
http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc/4.0/

The license is pretty simple. Do whatever you want the heck you want with it. Modify it. Distribute it with Attribution. But do not try to monetize it. If anyone has any comments or concerns let me know.

We are going to be including a thank you attribution page in the user guide where hopefully we can acknowledge the contributions of everyone who has made this possible. It should be a pretty long list.

I'm working on a BOM and work instructions for the main base that uses the JGY-370 motor. I know there is a manual being created as well, I'd be happy to help create content or edit it as well. As most of the heavy lifting in design has already been completed, I figured I could help contribute with a BOM and work instructions.

[TylerR]

Done.

Added to download. Thank you for your efforts.

[TylerR]

I'm working on a BOM and work instructions for the main base that uses the JGY-370 motor. I know there is a manual being created as well, I'd be happy to help create content or edit it as well. As most of the heavy lifting in design has already been completed, I figured I could help contribute with a BOM and work instructions.

Please reach out to o416. I am sure he would not mind the help. The main issue is just collating all the info already posted in this thread, and any assistance there would be appreciated.

[Andar]

So, I went home for lunch and wanted to check out how the micro-switch drop tube was coming along and discovered this masterpiece:

Ahhh, oh well. Adjusted the bed and started over, should be completed in a few more hours.

Other than the obvious differences, what is the preference between the switch and the light sensor? I feel like with the switch it would be easier to change drop tubes and not having to worry about the printed connectors wearing out and less things to go wrong.

Ooof, ouch, that sucks. I printed mine with a brim just to be sure that wouldn't happen, should probably have a note about that.
Might be time to invest in Octoprint and The Spaghetti Detective if you can get a Raspberry Pi or a dedicated computer to run with your printer. Saved me a lot of plastic when it caught and stopped a failed print.

I personally couldn't find all the parts needed for the light sensor for a decent price here in Canada without waiting months from China or ridiculous shipping prices from USA, so I decided on the pressure switches. It takes a bit of searching to find something with a very low actuation pressure to be used with cases, but they're widely available and cheaper overall. I use these.

With the lights, it should just work if you got decent components. With the switch, you need to make sure the arm/lever is the right size and shape to fit properly and won't get stuck or anything.
One thing you may need to watch out for is the thin slots for the screws. The first version I made snapped because they were thin, but the switch would still work. I beefed it up a bit and so far it hasn't broken. I also bought extra switches and will just keep them attached to whatever size tubes I need as I'm not doing a lot of calibres.

I don't think swapping the printed connectors out will be an issue, worst case you print off the small light ones again. The lights themselves should be cheap enough to just leave them permanently attached to the drop tube and use a wiring connector to swap out instead if you were worried.

[lablover]

So far I’ve only printed one set of sensor and light. I use that same set for all my drop tubes. I used Tyler’s quick disconnect on the end that plugs into the control box. I just leave it connected and when changing calibers I just unscrew the light and sensor and put it on the new drop tube. So far it’s been working fine and bullet proof. I may make another set just as a backup.

Picked up some clear PLA and am half tempted to print a new collater bowl out of clear. Also have that Amazon motor that needs a project ....hahahaha.

I ordered all my electronics via Amazon and ordered several of everything to have spares. If someone is in desperate need for a light and light sensor I’d be happy to send one.

[bigmike111]

Ooof, ouch, that sucks. I printed mine with a brim just to be sure that wouldn't happen, should probably have a note about that.
Might be time to invest in Octoprint and The Spaghetti Detective if you can get a Raspberry Pi or a dedicated computer to run with your printer. Saved me a lot of plastic when it caught and stopped a failed print.

I personally couldn't find all the parts needed for the light sensor for a decent price here in Canada without waiting months from China or ridiculous shipping prices from USA, so I decided on the pressure switches. It takes a bit of searching to find something with a very low actuation pressure to be used with cases, but they're widely available and cheaper overall. I use these.

With the lights, it should just work if you got decent components. With the switch, you need to make sure the arm/lever is the right size and shape to fit properly and won't get stuck or anything.
One thing you may need to watch out for is the thin slots for the screws. The first version I made snapped because they were thin, but the switch would still work. I beefed it up a bit and so far it hasn't broken. I also bought extra switches and will just keep them attached to whatever size tubes I need as I'm not doing a lot of calibres.

I don't think swapping the printed connectors out will be an issue, worst case you print off the small light ones again. The lights themselves should be cheap enough to just leave them permanently attached to the drop tube and use a wiring connector to swap out instead if you were worried.

Yea, I am still learning a lot about printing and trying to build myself up slowly.

I have all of the parts for a light sensor but there is a lot of stuff to go wrong, and if I'm not mistaken if the light or photocell needs to be replaced I would have to cut it off and re-solder the connection. It seems easier to just have a spade connector and leave it be in each drop tube/toolhead. It is much cheaper also. The only trouble I have had so far is finding switches that are activated by very little force.

I have some Amazon switches that I will try once I get all of the bugs worked out in the with the bullets getting flipped when they aren't and vice versa.

One step at a time.

[GWS]

So, I went home for lunch and wanted to check out how the micro-switch drop tube was coming along and discovered this masterpiece:

Ahhh, oh well. Adjusted the bed and started over, should be completed in a few more hours.

Other than the obvious differences, what is the preference between the switch and the light sensor? I feel like with the switch it would be easier to change drop tubes and not having to worry about the printed connectors wearing out and less things to go wrong.

So is that caused by the Creality bed no longer sticking the base down? The tall skinny part fell over I guess?

I don't know what's best switch-wise, but I thought the micro-switch was too high maintenance....had to change adjustment too often. That's why I tried the proximity sensor on my old Hornady Pistol Bullet Feeder. Actually that proximity sensor was found when I was actually looking for a light sensor. That was before they were "discovered" by the Ammo Mike group here early on......and I've never tried the light sensor, since the proximity switch worked so well and was so forgiving caliber-wise using the same body.

TylerR is going to try one when I send him my stl and dwg files.....he may like it....or not....

[lablover]

So is that caused by the Creality bed no longer sticking the base down? The tall skinny part fell over I guess?

I don't know what's best switch-wise, but I thought the micro-switch was too high maintenance....had to change adjustment too often. That's why I tried the proximity sensor on my old Hornady Pistol Bullet Feeder. Actually that proximity sensor was found when I was actually looking for a light sensor. That was before they were "discovered" by the Ammo Mike group here early on......and I've never tried the light sensor, since the proximity switch worked so well and was so forgiving caliber-wise using the same body.

TylerR is going to try one when I send him my stl and dwg files.....he may like it....or not....

I have 2 feeders made and use the proximity on one and light on the other. Honestly I like them both the same. I’m half tempted to order a smaller proximity switch I saw online to just streamline it a bit. However it’s working so well on the APP I don’t want to mess with it.

I swear I don’t know what I’m going to do when I have no more bullet feeders to print! Lol

[o416]

Please reach out to o416. I am sure he would not mind the help. The main issue is just collating all the info already posted in this thread, and any assistance there would be appreciated.

Almost done the manual

Should be ready by weeks end and we can get the editing process going.

I have already gone through the entire thread and added whatever I could find but I am sure I missed some stuff.

[o416]

Ooof, ouch, that sucks. I printed mine with a brim just to be sure that wouldn't happen, should probably have a note about that.
Might be time to invest in Octoprint and The Spaghetti Detective if you can get a Raspberry Pi or a dedicated computer to run with your printer. Saved me a lot of plastic when it caught and stopped a failed print.

I personally couldn't find all the parts needed for the light sensor for a decent price here in Canada without waiting months from China or ridiculous shipping prices from USA, so I decided on the pressure switches. It takes a bit of searching to find something with a very low actuation pressure to be used with cases, but they're widely available and cheaper overall. I use these.

With the lights, it should just work if you got decent components. With the switch, you need to make sure the arm/lever is the right size and shape to fit properly and won't get stuck or anything.
One thing you may need to watch out for is the thin slots for the screws. The first version I made snapped because they were thin, but the switch would still work. I beefed it up a bit and so far it hasn't broken. I also bought extra switches and will just keep them attached to whatever size tubes I need as I'm not doing a lot of calibres.

I don't think swapping the printed connectors out will be an issue, worst case you print off the small light ones again. The lights themselves should be cheap enough to just leave them permanently attached to the drop tube and use a wiring connector to swap out instead if you were worried.

Yaaay a fellow Canadian lol

[o416]

Ooof, ouch, that sucks. I printed mine with a brim just to be sure that wouldn't happen, should probably have a note about that.
Might be time to invest in Octoprint and The Spaghetti Detective if you can get a Raspberry Pi or a dedicated computer to run with your printer. Saved me a lot of plastic when it caught and stopped a failed print.

I personally couldn't find all the parts needed for the light sensor for a decent price here in Canada without waiting months from China or ridiculous shipping prices from USA, so I decided on the pressure switches. It takes a bit of searching to find something with a very low actuation pressure to be used with cases, but they're widely available and cheaper overall. I use these.

With the lights, it should just work if you got decent components. With the switch, you need to make sure the arm/lever is the right size and shape to fit properly and won't get stuck or anything.
One thing you may need to watch out for is the thin slots for the screws. The first version I made snapped because they were thin, but the switch would still work. I beefed it up a bit and so far it hasn't broken. I also bought extra switches and will just keep them attached to whatever size tubes I need as I'm not doing a lot of calibres.

I don't think swapping the printed connectors out will be an issue, worst case you print off the small light ones again. The lights themselves should be cheap enough to just leave them permanently attached to the drop tube and use a wiring connector to swap out instead if you were worried.

Yeah a brim is necessary for that part I find because there isn't much material on the bottom of the tube for adhesion to the bed. Of course that also depends on how you have your printer setup.

Regardless, I am adding brim as a recommendation for this part in the manual.

[TylerR]

So is that caused by the Creality bed no longer sticking the base down? The tall skinny part fell over I guess?

I don't know what's best switch-wise, but I thought the micro-switch was too high maintenance....had to change adjustment too often. That's why I tried the proximity sensor on my old Hornady Pistol Bullet Feeder. Actually that proximity sensor was found when I was actually looking for a light sensor. That was before they were "discovered" by the Ammo Mike group here early on......and I've never tried the light sensor, since the proximity switch worked so well and was so forgiving caliber-wise using the same body.

TylerR is going to try one when I send him my stl and dwg files.....he may like it....or not....

GWS, I am telling you now, the proximity sensor is potentially a game changer. That is why I have been asking you very specific questions about it. I want to figure out the best way to incorporate it in to the current design. And all your efforts so far answer a lot of the questions.

[TylerR]

Almost done the manual

Should be ready by weeks end and we can get the editing process going.

I have already gone through the entire thread and added whatever I could find but I am sure I missed some stuff.

I have seen what you have so far, and in a short time you have something miles ahead of where I would be. really looking forward to version 1.0. Because just like the design itself, I am sure the manual will be a work in progress.

With all the crap going on in this country right now, it sure feels nice to work with like minded people to make something positive happen, doesn't it?

edited to add: just noticed your comment above about being Canadian. My statement still holds true. My brothers to the north are still my brothers.

[o416]

I have seen what you have so far, and in a short time you have something miles ahead of where I would be. really looking forward to version 1.0. Because just like the design itself, I am sure the manual will be a work in progress.

With all the crap going on in this country right now, it sure feels nice to work with like minded people to make something positive happen, doesn't it?

edited to add: just noticed your comment above about being Canadian. My statement still holds true. My brothers to the north are still my brothers.

I am actually enjoying making the manual lol I appreciate all the hard work you all have put into this project and I don't mind adapting it as this project evolves.

I don't think any country is devoid of crap these days but, yes, it is nice to come here and collaborate on something I have enjoyed being a part of.

Thanks for the love brother I love the USA and wish it the best during these dark times. Maybe one day I can live down south where firearm rights are taken seriously; even though that is changing.

Cheers

[bigmike111]

So is that caused by the Creality bed no longer sticking the base down? The tall skinny part fell over I guess?

I don't know what's best switch-wise, but I thought the micro-switch was too high maintenance....had to change adjustment too often. That's why I tried the proximity sensor on my old Hornady Pistol Bullet Feeder. Actually that proximity sensor was found when I was actually looking for a light sensor. That was before they were "discovered" by the Ammo Mike group here early on......and I've never tried the light sensor, since the proximity switch worked so well and was so forgiving caliber-wise using the same body.

TylerR is going to try one when I send him my stl and dwg files.....he may like it....or not....

I’m assuming it was just a bed level issue. It could also be that I didn’t clean the bed properly or the fact that that black PLA has been a nightmare. I printed another tube before this in the green PLA and insert before without a brim and it was basically glued on. I actually had to put the whole bed with the collator plate in the freezer to get it to come off. Lol. I think it might be time to clean it with some acetone or something other than alcohol, I’ve been making a lot of things with it.

The proximity sensors are cool, we use them at work on out trucks for a lot of different reasons, not sure if they make different sizes but these are all about 1-1.25” in diameter. I’m sure there has to be smaller ones also. They are great because there aren’t any moving parts and they pretty much last forever as long as they don’t get damaged.

[Macscotts56]

I’m assuming it was just a bed level issue. It could also be that I didn’t clean the bed properly or the fact that that black PLA has been a nightmare. I printed another tube before this in the green PLA and insert before without a brim and it was basically glued on. I actually had to put the whole bed with the collator plate in the freezer to get it to come off. Lol. I think it might be time to clean it with some acetone or something other than alcohol, I’ve been making a lot of things with it.

The proximity sensors are cool, we use them at work on out trucks for a lot of different reasons, not sure if they make different sizes but these are all about 1-1.25” in diameter. I’m sure there has to be smaller ones also. They are great because there aren’t any moving parts and they pretty much last forever as long as they don’t get damaged.

I'll purchase one on Amazon to try out, I'm sure they will work. Ordering it right now.

[GWS]

The one I picked is an inductive proximity sensor.....not a capacitive which I hear is not as sensitive. It's 18mm (.7") diameter. $10.50
There is a smaller version but it not as sensitive either.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CWTQ3SF...roduct_details

I also bought a speed control for my motors that works with it well. for $7.50

https://www.amazon.com/uniquegoods-C...STKTNMW0QDXXE1

So for simplicity and price it's hard to beat.....no other electronic board is required.

[TylerR]

The one I picked is an inductive proximity sensor.....not a capacitive which I hear is not as sensitive. It's 18mm (.7") diameter. $10.50
There is a smaller version but it not as sensitive either.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CWTQ3SF...roduct_details

I also bought a speed control for my motors that works with it well. for $7.50

https://www.amazon.com/uniquegoods-C...STKTNMW0QDXXE1

So for simplicity and price it's hard to beat.....no other electronic board is required.

I am going to grab one of these for testing once I get my hands on your mount. Do you see any reason not to go with this one? Says it has 10mm range. Seems to be same threading (18mm)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...UO29ZUJ2&psc=1

[lablover]

I am going to grab one of these for testing once I get my hands on your mount. Do you see any reason not to go with this one? Says it has 10mm range. Seems to be same threading (18mm)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...UO29ZUJ2&psc=1

Is GWS latest proximity mount in the latest download....not home so I can’t check