Making that Bullet Collator

[gen79z]

I just generated a bullet collator plate using the Java script and instead of printing what I typed in the "description" field it printed "Large Rifle Bullet (#4)". I don't really have a problem with this except I'm not sure if I got the correct plate. I their any way of checking before printing?

[ChrisMChristian]

I just generated a bullet collator plate using the Java script and instead of printing what I typed in the "description" field it printed "Large Rifle Bullet (#4)". I don't really have a problem with this except I'm not sure if I got the correct plate. I their any way of checking before printing?

Most likely the specs of what you put into the generator, was equal to Large Rifle Bullet (#4), would be my guess. Have you looked at the generator specs for Large Rifle Bullet (#4), you might find they are equal?

Have a Great day!
Chris

[gen79z]

I haven't checked, but will. Not exactly sure what I'm looking for but...

[ChrisMChristian]

Each of the 4 collators have been tested for electronics, motor, and basic functioning. Hopefully my spring tubes will finally get in this Friday, so I can square away the drop tubes and do some final tuning and organizing of all of the spare parts and swappable components.

I ended up using all PETG for these 4. About 1.5 KG of red, 2 KG of black, and 1.5 KG of grey. The only exception was on the electronics box, I used Prusa's VO Certified PETG (I use it anywhere I have electronics, VO cert means it will resist catching fire, but its self extinguishing too). I used heated brass inserts on many places there is screws going straight into plastic. I ended up doing 0.20mm layer height on all large components (body and collator plates), 4 perimeters, and 20% infill. But did the rest at 0.12mm layer height (also 4 perimeters and 20-30% infill), exception being the mount parts I went to 50% infill. I ended up using some left over 3/4 EMT I had, and made modifications to the mounts to accommodate those.

I tried uploading photo's here, which I have done before successfully, it's pretty easy (just didn't work tonight for some reason??) I tried jpg, png, bmp; I even tried doing the URL method, and also tried closing down and starting back up, nothing worked. So here is a link to my Google Drive folder for these photos. If anyone know what is going wrong with image uploads let me know.

https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...usp=drive_link


Can't wait to get tuning each bullet and case that I cast and reload with. I'm sure I will have a bunch of questions as I get into the weeds of tweaking these.


Have a Great day,
Chris

[ChrisMChristian]

STATUS ON 2ND SHIPMENT FROM lewis1914 's DESIGN
I just mailed out the second set PCB's to those that requested them.
Please let me know if you don't get those and I will resend.

I still have some left if anyone is interested, just PM me, no cost, my pleasure.


Have a Great day!!
Chris

[MSUICEMAN]

I got mine yesterday. Looks great and thank you! Can't wait to clean up my monstrosity of wiring.

Now, can I convince my work to use their machinery? Probably not, but worth a try.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

[JStuhlmiller]

For the bullet collating has anyone collated 50 bmg? or 338 Lapua?

[Grootjoseph]

Got mine and it looks very good, thanx a bunch Chris!

[Grootjoseph]

Has anybody tried this brake line protector spring? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...69B9BM2C&psc=1 Never mind, wrong size

[ChrisMChristian]

For the bullet collating has anyone collated 50 bmg? or 338 Lapua?

I'm getting set up to process my .338 Lapua Mag brass. I only reload those rounds single stage, no automation. But I do plan to use my Lee APP presses that I'm setting up to process brass and cast bullets. Though I won't be using the collator for the bullets and def won't be casting those rounds (due to the distances I use it for). I do a lot of casting, but mostly for high volume stuff like .223, 9mm, .300BLK, and 45ACP. For bullets I'm using the 300 grains Nossler Accubond and just not comfy using the collator for those (1,500 to 1,760plus). There is just too many variables and precision involved over 1,000. I'm sure it would be fine and the bullets would make it just fine without small dings and nicks, but I'm not willing to chance it on those bullets. Just MHO...

My Case Prep routine for .338 Lapua Mag Brass (Lapua Brass)
That being said, I am going to use it for the Lapua brass. First I check to see if trimming is needed.
I run the brass through my ultrasonic cleaner just to do quick cleaning before decapping (I just use a 6L harbor freight)
First use of the collator for cases I decap on Lee APP
Wet tumble clean cases (Rockford Arsenal Platinum 7L wet tumbler with 304 SS pins)
Lube cases for resizing
Second use of the collator for cases Full Length Resize on Lee APP
Third use of the collator for cases **IF** case trimming is needed, I have a trimming setup for Lee APP
Annealing station: annealing, chamfer, deburr (BurstFire v2)
Tumble Dry in my custom walnut/corn mix with blend of Dillon polish and some Nu-Finish (I just use my 18 pound harbor freight vibratory bowl)
Forth use of the collator for cases I seat the primers in Lee APP (and do some quick measurements, case gage, and inspection look for splits, cracks, dents, etc)
**I am considering holding off on the primer seating with the Lee APP and wait until final loading, haven't decided yet.

From here out, I touch the cases and the bullets and just have to focus on powder, bullet seating, bullet crimping, measurements, and then a final case gage check

I am probably being too cautious, but those 300 grain Nossler Accubonds bullets have a fairly large white polymer tip that I don't want to affect in any way. Once I use my new setup for this, I will update this. In early testing, it looks very promising for .338 Lapua Magnum brass (there's almost no gaps between case positions for that collator plate, hopefully those small divider pieces don't snap off ..

[ChrisMChristian]

Other than the one rack for slide plates, does anyone know of any organization systems that work good for all of the accessories for this collators?
I know, I know, just use those stackable clear plastic drawer systems and be done with it.
I was wondering if anyone could share how they organize everything and share any 3D print files (or links to files).
I am about half way through this whole thread and have already seen some examples, but still nothing really jumping out at me yet.

[ChrisMChristian]

Has anybody tried this brake line protector spring? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...69B9BM2C&psc=1

Hey Joe, I ended up using the 12mm and 14mm of this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09K39TKJC...sin_title&th=1

I do like the price on the one you shared, but it looks like that isn't Stainless Steel as they claim (according to review).
But if that doesn't matter to you and the diameter works, then looks like it would work possibly
**UPDATE** Actually it looks like they updated the title and description to remove the stainless steel claim.
So now it's carbon steel with zinc coating.

[MSUICEMAN]

I use ones I got from AliExpress. If I recall correctly, I may have an extra set. Id have to look.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

[Sig]

STATUS ON 2ND SHIPMENT FROM lewis1914 's DESIGN
I just mailed out the second set PCB's to those that requested them.
Please let me know if you don't get those and I will resend.

I still have some left if anyone is interested, just PM me, no cost, my pleasure.


Have a Great day!!
Chris

Got mine yesterday! Thanks a bunch!

[jimisola]

Regarding lewis1914 's PCB, I still need all the hardware, i.e. proximity sensor, relay, speed controller etc but the bird nests of wiring would be a lot less. Is that correct?

I've just about finished 3 feeders but it would be nice to make the electronics box cleaner.

Edit: Almost forgot. Thanks TylerR for awesome work and a great project.

[MSUICEMAN]

Regarding lewis1914 's PCB, I still need all the hardware, i.e. proximity sensor, relay, speed controller etc but the bird nests of wiring would be a lot less. Is that correct?

I've just about finished 3 feeders but it would be nice to make the elecrtronics box a cleaner.

Yes, it more.or less replaces some of the wiring and connectors/splices you need.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

[jimisola]

Also, I plan to share an alternative proximity sensor. The current PRD18-14DN2 is a rock solid choice and you can't go wrong. But it's relatively expensive ($25 to $45) and usually takes a week or more shipping. Plus, the main thing you get with that M18 size sensor is the 14mm of sensing distance compared to the 8mm sensing distance of the one I have sourced that is only $6.99 with 2 day shipping.

The PRD18-14DN2 is quite difficult to get a hold of in Europe as well. I ordered another one on AliExpress but I'm having troubles getting it to work (have two) whereas it just works with the two PRD18-14DN2. I'm not that techy with DC etc so it could be that I'm doing something wrong (NPN NC). But, if anyone wants to try it out then here's the link

Yellow Approach Sensor inductive proximity sensor switch
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EHLyEFJ

Sent from my SM-S906B using Tapatalk

[ChrisMChristian]

The PRD18-14DN2 is quite difficult to get a hold of in Europe as well. I ordered another one on AliExpress but I'm having troubles getting it to work (have two) whereas it just works with the two PRD18-14DN2. I'm not that techy with DC etc so it could be that I'm doing something wrong (NPN NC). But, if anyone wants to try it out then here's the link

Yellow Approach Sensor inductive proximity sensor switch
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EHLyEFJ

Sent from my SM-S906B using Tapatalk

I did end up getting 4 of the official Autonics proximity sensors off of Amazon for $24 each, but at 1 week shipping (they are now $40 again).
To me, even $24 is a LOT of money for a proximity sensor where WE control how close the tip of the sensor gets to the items it is sensing.
SOooooo, at the same time I ordered the Autonics ones, I ordered SEVERAL different varieties off of Amazon, and only the below worked without any changes with the same results:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081DGFYN8 (It was only $7.50 with 2 day delivery)
(M18 Inductive Proximity Sensor Switch PR18-8DN2 Cylindrical Type Detector 8mm DC12-24V 3-Wire NPN NC(Normally Closed) )

OK, so if you have never worked with proximity sensors before, but know basic electronics, there is a few things that you HAVE to make sure you get right, when ordering something other than the Autonics PRD18-14DN2. You are looking for:
- Wire type and power : DC 3-wire type 12-24VDC 200mA
- Sensing side diameter : M18
- Sensing distance : 8mm
- Installation: Non-Shield(non-flush)
- Control output: NPN Normally Closed

Unless you are going to change the 3D printed part to 12mm, 24mm, etc; make sure you see M18, which is 18mm diameter m18 threads to screw into the 3D bushing part.
Also, from what TylerR specs out, you want a MINIMUM sensing distance of 8mm. The one I listed is 8mm, but many on Amazon are 4mm, and several that claim 8mm are more like 5mm. The Autonics is a solid 14mm sensing distance. The importance here is if you measure the end of the sensor as it is screwed into the tube, and where bullets or cases will be at rest next to that point; you shouldn't see anything more than 8mm gap. The 14mm Autonics just gives you some wiggle room (though in my opinion, with little tuning 8mm is more than enough).
Next up is NPN and normally closed. Keep in mind you are essentially creating a logic circuit of sorts here without software running on a micro controller. I will let you look up what NPN vs PNP is and the difference between normally closed vs normally open. At a basic level, you are sending power to the sensor, and if it doesn't see metal within the "sensing distance" you tell the circuit to keep sending electricity to the motor (at what ever the potentiometer is set to). So be sure to find NPN and NC. **WARNING** 2 of the proximity sensors I tried from Amazon that claimed to be NPN and NC, were actually NO (normally open). NO is the opposite logic that you want here, and if it sees metal within the sensing distance, will keep the motor going. So, test that it works as expected before you return window ends.
The last piece to look for is 12-24VDC at 200mA. There are DC sensors that have different DC voltage ranges, and there is also 120-240 AC sensors. They all look the same.

I hope this helps.


Have a Great Day!
Chris

[Grootjoseph]

Help needed!!! I am trying to print a collator body on an Ender 3 series with a 220x220 bed. after compiling from the project generator i end up with a collator body that is 222 mm. What am I doing wrong?

[Grootjoseph]

Help needed!!! I am trying to print a collator body on an Ender 3 series with a 220x220 bed. after compiling from the project generator i end up with a collator body that is 222 mm. What am I doing wrong?

Ok, My stupidity has no end to it. I had a skirt around the collator. Problem solved