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Thread: Making that Bullet Collator

  1. #4341
    Boolit Master GWS's Avatar
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    TylerR found the following PLA Professional that is really close......this Overture brand of PLA Professional (or Plus) is exceptional. I don't use the blue, but the black is also awesome stuff!

    Attachment 279876

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...1?ie=UTF8&th=1

  2. #4342
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    take a look at this i dont have a dillon to color match but have tryed about 4kg of this stuff not top tier but for what i am using it for like the bullet feeders and parts is working excellent and the price cant be beat



    https://gst3d.com/product/limited-ti...DUhKupFBx7LXaA

  3. #4343
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    Quote Originally Posted by CS223 View Post
    Has anyone found a particular brand of filament that’s a good match for the Dillon blue?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Someone here pointed me to this... It needs to be run a bit hot (I run at 220) but the color match is real close

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    Click image for larger version. 

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  4. #4344
    Boolit Master TylerR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by greekman View Post
    ok tryed some boolits on the app i see what you mean all need is to shorten the insert

    may have a bigger problem on the app
    the punch does not push the first boolit farr enough through for the next to be fully dropped as it is the die had to be run further down so the first would drop have to think on this problem
    I did post a new version of the 45-70 feed die. I wish I had some 45-70 boolits to test it but I don't.

  5. #4345
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    Thought I share, printed the Brass Slide Plate and Drop Hole Adaptor as one part with a resin printer using semi-transparent resin. Seems like it worked out just fine...

    Click image for larger version. 

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  6. #4346
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    Collator plate sticking.
    I'm working on my first one and having a few minor issues. The collator plate seems rough as the motor turns it. I was wondering if there was a good way to smooth edges and the bottom out to make it slide easier and catch less.

  7. #4347
    Boolit Master GWS's Avatar
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    Check to see that there are no bolt heads or nuts sticking up proud on the base bottom or sides....especially the nuts holding on the electrical box.

    If not then is the plate smooth on the bottom and the base smooth on the top. I found that base prints are smoother on top when they have at least four layers on top of fill.

    Check for elephants foot spread at the first layer on the plate. If that's a problem, file or sand off, or use a sharp utility knife, then smooth with a sanding paper say 220 grit.

    Also check to see if the motor mounts are tight. If they are loose.....plates can wobble and hit in places on the base...

    Although I haven't personally seen it, is your plate's clearance to the base sides the same all around and enough that it doens't hit the sides
    Last edited by GWS; 03-21-2021 at 01:07 AM.

  8. #4348
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    Quote Originally Posted by silahtar View Post
    Thought I share, printed the Brass Slide Plate and Drop Hole Adaptor as one part with a resin printer using semi-transparent resin. Seems like it worked out just fine...

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Hi,
    That looks like it came out really nice. I don’t know anything about resin printers other than what I’ve read, so have a few questions. How are the tolerances? Also, how strong and durable are the prints as compared to PLA+? Just looking on Amazon, there don’t seem to be many color choices with resins, or am I missing something? Finally, which printer are you using?
    Thanks,
    Ed
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    Growing old is mandatory, growing up is totally optional!

  9. #4349
    Boolit Master TylerR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by silahtar View Post
    Thought I share, printed the Brass Slide Plate and Drop Hole Adaptor as one part with a resin printer using semi-transparent resin. Seems like it worked out just fine...

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Looks slick! How did you fuse the two stl's together? tinkercad or something. Also, did you use supports for the top side where the little adjuster slide goes?

  10. #4350
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    Quote Originally Posted by TylerR View Post
    I did post a new version of the 45-70 feed die. I wish I had some 45-70 boolits to test it but I don't.
    if you would like i can send some to you have a bunch casted

  11. #4351
    Boolit Master TylerR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by greekman View Post
    if you would like i can send some to you have a bunch casted
    Sure, why not. All I would really need is maybe 5-10 tops. With 10 I could do a better test with the collator and everything. I'll send a PM.

  12. #4352
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    You can use meshmixer (opensource) to add (or subtract) meshes.

  13. #4353
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    Quote Originally Posted by TylerR View Post
    Looks slick! How did you fuse the two stl's together? tinkercad or something. Also, did you use supports for the top side where the little adjuster slide goes?
    Just placed them on the slicer one on top of the other with a 0.5mm intersection. Didn't use any design software to fuse them together. A tried it first time with a support, and second print without. Didn't make much difference, comes out with a bit of a curve. Took about 5 minutes to file and flatten the slider.

    I'm printing with a 0.05mm resolution which is the default setting for most of these printers. As you can imagine, come out with great detail. Most parts just mates without any fitting, sometimes a bit of sandpaper needed though...

  14. #4354
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    Quote Originally Posted by RedlegEd View Post
    Hi,
    That looks like it came out really nice. I don’t know anything about resin printers other than what I’ve read, so have a few questions. How are the tolerances? Also, how strong and durable are the prints as compared to PLA+? Just looking on Amazon, there don’t seem to be many color choices with resins, or am I missing something? Finally, which printer are you using?
    Thanks,
    Ed
    Tolerances are way better than a filament-type printer, the typical layer used is 0.05mm, which obviously produces great results... Internals of tubes etc is so smooth that don't require any acetone smoothing. This last resin I'm using is classified as "ABS Like", so thinking it will be quite strong. I have all smaller parts printed with the resin printer, nothing broke so far...

    Using the first version of Elegoo Mars, good enough for most prints. Newer models have filters, but not a huge difference in resolution. I'm never bothered with the colour, you'll find 5-6 major colours and semi-transparent variations like I have in the picture.

  15. #4355
    Boolit Master GWS's Avatar
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    You left out the important information unless I'm blind....which I'm getting closer to every day....

    What printer are you using? how much did it cost? what media, and where you bought this interesting stuff?!......just a few things....maybe pandoras box but so be it....
    Last edited by GWS; 03-22-2021 at 01:06 PM.

  16. #4356
    Boolit Master GWS's Avatar
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    BTW, TylerR, I'm actually getting less afraid about supports.....

    On my latest projects where I made "lights & camera" for my old Pro 2000, I had to use supports extensively. It was a bit spooky, as I was picturing lots of post print scraping and sanding, I was pleasently surprised that there was.......none. Took about 30 seconds to remove 1 1/2" high, by 4" worth, and it was done....and everything fit. Big surprise.

    I reposted the video where I thought there might be some interest.....I was wrong.....totally ignored! That's OK, I don't feel guilty not sharing.....

    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...sive-Reloading

  17. #4357
    Boolit Master TylerR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by greekman View Post
    if you would like i can send some to you have a bunch casted
    I forgot to mention, I really need one empty shell casing as well to test it.

  18. #4358
    Boolit Master TylerR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GWS View Post
    BTW, TylerR, I'm actually getting less afraid about supports.....

    On my latest projects where I made "lights & camera" for my old Pro 2000, I had to use supports extensively. It was a bit spooky, as I was picturing lots of post print scraping and sanding, I was pleasently surprised that there was.......none. Took about 30 seconds to remove 1 1/2" high, by 4" worth, and it was done....and everything fit. Big surprise.

    I reposted the video where I thought there might be some interest.....I was wrong.....totally ignored! That's OK, I don't feel guilty not sharing.....

    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...sive-Reloading
    One thing I will say is that new slicers and printers handle supports far better now then when I first started out.

    huh. I thought the video was cool.

  19. #4359
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    Quote Originally Posted by GWS View Post
    You left out the important information unless I'm blind....which I'm getting closer to every day....

    What printer are you using? how much did it cost? what media, and where you bought this interesting stuff?!......just a few things....maybe pandoras box but so be it....
    I'm in Canada, printer and resin was purchased from amazon.ca. Nowadays they start at about CAD300, I would suggest the Elegoo Mars Pro 2 which cost around CAD400. The one I have would be considered prior model of those that cost around 300CAD model so you'll still get far better resolution compared to a regular filament printer even when you go with the cheaper model.

    Elegoo also sells resin, so I'm using their resin, they are about CAD25-30 for a 500gr bottle.

    Also comes with its free slicing software, designed specifically to be used for resin printers; will alow you to carve out inside to save resin, drill holes to allow draining, etc...

  20. #4360
    Boolit Master GWS's Avatar
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    Neat technology, but still really limited in size.....good only for the smallest parts. Someday tho...... But for now it's too pricey for what you can do with it to be that practical for us poor people. It's a coming thing for sure. Thanks for the information....the 3D printers that use filament that most of us use were esoteric just a few years ago.
    Last edited by GWS; 03-23-2021 at 11:55 AM.

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