Making that Bullet Collator

[TylerR]

I will. Lots of mods already due to the step file being out. At this time I can only see 2 items that would make the printer better, a slimmer front shroud and a relocate of the spool holder.

Did you get the enclosure panels?

[calgarysparky]

Did you get the enclosure panels?

No, at $170 USD I can have acrylic panels cut cheaper and they will be clear vs their aluminum ones.

[TylerR]

No, at $170 USD I can have acrylic panels cut cheaper and they will be clear vs their aluminum ones.

On the link i sent it shows $120, but makes sense If you already have it and they want to charge $170 for adding them. I didn't notice the side plates were aluminum till you said it.

[tdogg]

Yep, that checks all my marks for a new printer: high temp for nylon, enclosure, coreXY, large, and fast. Thanks! I'm probably going to order it. Wish I got in on the intro offer but it still is way cheaper than a Prusa. I'm interested in shooting a larger nozzle to see how fast I can print.

I sell processed brass I pick up as an RO at major matches. I generally pick up ~5g bucket per match and it just helps offset shooting costs. It generally is mostly 9mm but I pick it all up (40S&W, 45ACP, 38 SC, etc...). I wet tumble, roll size, and now decap!

Cheers,
Toby

[Jdkenned360]

Hey everyone, I've been lurking for a couple months and just want to say how much I appreciate all the work put into this. I've completed 2 collators for the most part. Just working on plumbing them into the press.

I haven't come across any proximity sensor placement for a case feed down at by the press similar to the drop tube setup for bullets. Seems like most put it up on the main body of the collator, usually I'd go that route but I went with time delay that Kausit came up with so having it down low would give room to fill the tube with the time delay. I'm using a lee 6000 press, I may have to dip my toes into Fusion 360 to come up with a mount for the proximity sensor. Just wondering if anyone has done this yet and I just missed it.

Again this thread has been amazing to read through! Got me into the 3d printing world while making reloading even more fun.

[TylerR]

Hey everyone, I've been lurking for a couple months and just want to say how much I appreciate all the work put into this. I've completed 2 collators for the most part. Just working on plumbing them into the press.

I haven't come across any proximity sensor placement for a case feed down at by the press similar to the drop tube setup for bullets. Seems like most put it up on the main body of the collator, usually I'd go that route but I went with time delay that Kausit came up with so having it down low would give room to fill the tube with the time delay. I'm using a lee 6000 press, I may have to dip my toes into Fusion 360 to come up with a mount for the proximity sensor. Just wondering if anyone has done this yet and I just missed it.

Again this thread has been amazing to read through! Got me into the 3d printing world while making reloading even more fun.

That is how I run my case feeder. regular drop tube, with the Dillon_Drop_Tube_Adapter that goes to the dillon case adapters.

[calgarysparky]

Yep, that checks all my marks for a new printer: high temp for nylon, enclosure, coreXY, large, and fast. Thanks! I'm probably going to order it. Wish I got in on the intro offer but it still is way cheaper than a Prusa. I'm interested in shooting a larger nozzle to see how fast I can print.

I sell processed brass I pick up as an RO at major matches. I generally pick up ~5g bucket per match and it just helps offset shooting costs. It generally is mostly 9mm but I pick it all up (40S&W, 45ACP, 38 SC, etc...). I wet tumble, roll size, and now decap!

Cheers,
Toby

I got in at the very beginning, they had a slight whoops and there was an extra $50 off. Paid $449 for mine. Can never go wrong at that price. I've been running sovol printers for 2 years now and you just can't beat the bang for the buck. And I haven't had any issues with them.

[HuskJ]

Toby, let me know which motor you decide to go with because I am doing the exact same thing right now. Printing a Mongo for case feeding for .45acp into my decapper and then I'd like a clean version for my roll sizer.

[TylerR]

XDrebel's inline fab mount is in contributors folder.

https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob...B_QC_Mount.zip

[XDrebel]

XDrebel's inline fab mount is in contributors folder.

https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob...B_QC_Mount.zip

Thank you TylerR

After getting away from the tunnel vision of concentrating on this being used with the InLine Fabrication QC plate, I realized that this could actually be used with the APP mounted directly to the bench. If someone would want to use it that way and feels they want to add some mounting holes to it for more support and needs the original Fusion 360 file, just let me know.

Sent from my SM-S918U1 using Tapatalk

[HuskJ]

I pre-ordered this printer and then proceeded to wait over two years for this to happen. Glad I finally made it


Attachment 325522

Looks Awesome!

[Brandos-98]

To start off, Thank You to everyone who has contributed!

I found this years ago before the shift to Github. Ended up rediscovering this thread last month.

I got around to printing one up this week and I am happily impressed! 27 hours, 1kg, and a lot more time reviewing the manual I have all my components to build this.

My question is- has anyone found a good way to mount this on the Frankford Arsenal x-10? Looking for ideas before I overcomplicate things!

[TylerR]

To start off, Thank You to everyone who has contributed!

I found this years ago before the shift to Github. Ended up rediscovering this thread last month.

I got around to printing one up this week and I am happily impressed! 27 hours, 1kg, and a lot more time reviewing the manual I have all my components to build this.

My question is- has anyone found a good way to mount this on the Frankford Arsenal x-10? Looking for ideas before I overcomplicate things!

1" round post mounted from the bench. There is a stl for the bench mount. then you just need a 1" round piece of aluminum / steel / or even a wood dowel. To be clear it needs to be 1" OD.

[GWS]

Welcome to the extremely fun money saving madness!

[doublemike]

I'm trying to get the Feed_Die_45_Body to print on a Bambu P1S.
The 9mm version worked flawlessly same for all other parts. However for the 45 Feed die I can't make it to work.
Each time at the part where the walls are thin for the ball bearings it breaks. First 3 tries it broke while printing. Last attempt it broke when I "touched" it.
Anyone else successful printing this and with what settings/filament?

I'm using PLA.

EDIT: I followed what's in the pdf for layer height/infill. Tried with a higher value and the same.

[TylerR]

I'm trying to get the Feed_Die_45_Body to print on a Bambu P1S.
The 9mm version worked flawlessly same for all other parts. However for the 45 Feed die I can't make it to work.
Each time at the part where the walls are thin for the ball bearings it breaks. First 3 tries it broke while printing. Last attempt it broke when I "touched" it.
Anyone else successful printing this and with what settings/filament?

I'm using PLA.

It's your slicer settings. You have to set it to allow thin walls. The wall is .425mm thick there.

[doublemike]

It's your slicer settings. You have to set it to allow thin walls. The wall is .425mm thick there.

What setting specifically do I need to change for this in Bambu Studio?

[TylerR]

What setting specifically do I need to change for this in Bambu Studio?

I don't use that slicer so I don't know. This question does come up a lot. I am not sure why these slicers don't print thin walls by default. I have never had an issue with cura.

[GWS]

What setting specifically do I need to change for this in Bambu Studio?

If you can't figure it out get another Slicer......TylerR says Cura works fine.......for me IdeaMaker works fine. Look for a menu that has "thin-wall" options.....

IdeaMaker's is in the "Other" menu. Looks like this:



Also make SURE your printer is TUNED! That is, when the model is supposed to print .425 it really does. I think a good way to determine that is to print a cube 10 mm square and measure it with exactness.....calipers?

TylerR may have even a better way......

[HuskJ]

Help Request, in the past I have always used the micro switch option with the Cherry d42x for the micro switch. I wanted to jump on board the proximity sensor as that seems to be the leader these days and I can't find any more of those micro switches anymore. So, I ordered the sensor, the relay, the switch controller and switch and printed the drop tube system for 45ACP brass as well as 45 ACP boolits. I wired it all up (best I could) following the directions. I got some separate wire to wire the multiples together with a wiring nut etc. Plugged in the power and motor runs, speed controller works adjusting the speed and light is on the sensor. Thought everything was great until I loaded the drop tube with brass and once it was past the sensor the motor didn't turn off. Two questions, 1 any idea what could be causing this? Second, any tricks to wiring you all use to wire to the switch as well as to the relay? Are you soldering it or using wire quick connects? I'll solve the second question I guess once I figure out why the sensor isn't activating the motor on / off once the drop tube is full. Thank you and apologies in advance if this is a dumb question but trying to figure it out for a chunk of time today and thought I'd ask the experts. I even tried taking the sensor out of the drop tube and putting my thumb finger over it and still didn't stop motor. Thank you!.



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