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Thread: Making that Bullet Collator

  1. #7281
    Boolit Buddy
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    May 2013
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    Nothern Nevada
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    Quote Originally Posted by whitepointer View Post
    Dear all, What am i missing here. i cant figure what screws should be going into the clutch so that the nut is properly retained while the correct size screw passes through the body of the clutch. See picture. Attachment 327656
    I used 6-32x3/4” flathead screws inserted from the bottom of the clutch and 4-40x1/4” to secure the handle.

  2. #7282
    Boolit Bub
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    Jul 2012
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    73
    So I printed the two parts but the bolt that the original Lee brass feeder comes with does not fit into the hole of the Main Bracket. The head of the bolt fits perfectly into the cutout, but not the length of the bolt. Do I need a different bolt, or do I need to check for problems with my printer?

  3. #7283
    Boolit Mold
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    Jun 2024
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    5
    Quote Originally Posted by sierra1911 View Post
    I used 6-32x3/4” flathead screws inserted from the bottom of the clutch and 4-40x1/4” to secure the handle.
    Thank you for the measurements

  4. #7284
    Boolit Mold
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    Jun 2024
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    Quote Originally Posted by TylerR View Post
    Check out the user manual, page 10.
    Thank you TylerR

  5. #7285
    Boolit Master GWS's Avatar
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    May 2019
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jaak View Post
    So I printed the two parts but the bolt that the original Lee brass feeder comes with does not fit into the hole of the Main Bracket. The head of the bolt fits perfectly into the cutout, but not the length of the bolt. Do I need a different bolt, or do I need to check for problems with my printer?
    As stated in Tyler's manual, Layer Height for the Electrical box, and collator base can be .20mm all other parts that have to fit tight tolerances should be printed at .12mm layer height. So if you printed at .20 that might be your fit problem.

    I've slept a few months since I did that project, so I don't remember if Lees bolt was long enough......if it wasn't then obviously I went to Ace hardware and bought a bolt a little longer. Sorry just don't remember. Just touching all bases ..... I think you meant the hole for the bolt was tight. If so, then you probably printed at .20 not .12. If not then maybe your machine does need tuned. Another base I should touch on.......The bolt goes through the Main bracket (insert holder), and a nut under to secure it.........then you drop the Main bracket (insert holder) into the hole in the press and add another nut underneath the press mounting hole. So there is a nut on both top and bottom of the 6000 mounting hole.....otherwise the holder will be too short for the inserts to have clearance.

    And BTW, if it was me, and my bolt wouldn't go through the hole the length of the insert holder, I would drill it out with a drill bit before I printed another......unless the insert won't go in either.

  6. #7286
    Boolit Master TylerR's Avatar
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    Dec 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by whitepointer View Post
    Thank you TylerR
    Your welcome! a lot of the answers are covered in that manual. It is still DIY so some of it you just have to figure out, or review this thread. Pretty sure every question known to man has come up at a time or two here.

  7. #7287
    Boolit Master GWS's Avatar
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    May 2019
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    New Mexico
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    Quote Originally Posted by TylerR View Post
    Your welcome! a lot of the answers are covered in that manual. It is still DIY so some of it you just have to figure out, or review this thread. Pretty sure every question known to man has come up at a time or two here.
    The manual was a God Send......yes, you can review this thread....and everything has come up......but finding it in 7287 posts and 183 pages is daunting! I tried to make an index once.......after a few days trying, I gave it up......not dedicated enough I guess.

    Maybe AI could help?????
    Last edited by GWS; 06-21-2024 at 10:40 PM.

  8. #7288
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
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    73
    Quote Originally Posted by GWS View Post
    As stated in Tyler's manual, Layer Height for the Electrical box, and collator base can be .20mm all other parts that have to fit tight tolerances should be printed at .12mm layer height. So if you printed at .20 that might be your fit problem.

    I've slept a few months since I did that project, so I don't remember if Lees bolt was long enough......if it wasn't then obviously I went to Ace hardware and bought a bolt a little longer. Sorry just don't remember. Just touching all bases ..... I think you meant the hole for the bolt was tight. If so, then you probably printed at .20 not .12. If not then maybe your machine does need tuned. Another base I should touch on.......The bolt goes through the Main bracket (insert holder), and a nut under to secure it.........then you drop the Main bracket (insert holder) into the hole in the press and add another nut underneath the press mounting hole. So there is a nut on both top and bottom of the 6000 mounting hole.....otherwise the holder will be too short for the inserts to have clearance.

    And BTW, if it was me, and my bolt wouldn't go through the hole the length of the insert holder, I would drill it out with a drill bit before I printed another......unless the insert won't go in either.
    That's exactly what I did, drilled it out. Now it fits.

  9. #7289
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Aug 2022
    Location
    Salem, NH
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    29
    Quote Originally Posted by whitepointer View Post
    Thank you for the measurements
    6-32 and #6 6-32 hex nuts. i buy the 6-32 face plate screws for switch plates

  10. #7290
    Boolit Master GWS's Avatar
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    May 2019
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    I made a new part that couples small and large twistlock parts together to make case feeding on Lee's 6000 easy!.....using TylerR's Prox parts below the collator, fed to a spring, then to clear tubing, moving inside stationary tubing and finally to TylerR's quick change insert tubes, works super!

    The need was discovered when I attempted to convert my Pro 6000 case feeder to work with TylerR's Prox switch system under the collator, which I prefer over the one I came up with. (no breakage, the fancy Tee on mine I've broken twice not being careful enough)

    Videos Explain this setup:





    The Spring Adapter parts come with 2 separate twist lock sizes top and bottom, so the need for a coupler.....the red part in the middle between the spring adapter DT which is the small connector, and the clear tube adapter, which is the large one. Have designed 3 of them large, medium, and small as is supplied with the adapters normally used above the quick change caliber case inserts to go into the DT.

    Below is a picture of the parts used......L to R:
    1. RCBS_Drop_Hole_Tube_Adapter_Large which connects with the large twistlock, into one end of the New Lg.-to-Sm. twistlock coupler I printed.
    (I glued into the bottom of that adapter, a short piece of 15mm/16mm size ID/OD clear tube...
    2. The Lg.-to-Sm. Twistlock Coupler....the red part.
    3. TylerR's #11 Spring Fittings for my 11mm I.D spring (Spring_Adapter_11_DT and Spring_Adapter_11......the green parts.) Notice the top adapter is the large twistlock and the bottom one the small twist lock.
    4. TylerR's Proximity switch assembly with the #10 tube.

    Last edited by GWS; 06-29-2024 at 05:35 PM.

  11. #7291
    Boolit Master GWS's Avatar
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    Here's the Zip with the three sizes used depending on case diameter....

    Double_TwistLok_Drop_Tube_Adapter_ L_M_S.zip

    On my 9mm test the Medium works great.

    One caveat....I never can remember how to insert labels.....the arrow is there, TylerR's logo is there, but the size was on the part of his
    tube adaptor that I cut off.......where I added the big twistlok instead......So either use Magic Marker or maybe TylerR will adopt & add these and add the "S", "M", "L" to the new fat end of the part.
    Last edited by GWS; 06-29-2024 at 05:33 PM.

  12. #7292
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    2
    hello
    After visiting my friend and watching his Dillon 750 with a working bullet and case feeders, I finally decided to hit that slippery road and print myself the feeders using Tyler's plans ))) what a joy!!!! Everything turns out great.... well, if I don't screw up, but that is a different story ))
    Finally the final assembling moment came and I have a quick question: what is the correct way to install the slide adjuster? Ramped or Flat side up? This is for the small brass, like 9x19 )))
    Is this correct? Thanks a lot
    K
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by kostianych; 07-16-2024 at 11:27 AM.

  13. #7293
    Boolit Master TylerR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kostianych View Post
    hello
    After visiting my friend and watching his Dillon 750 with a working bullet and case feeders, I finally decided to hit that slippery road and print myself the feeders using Tyler's plans ))) what a joy!!!! Everything turns out great.... well, if I don't screw up, but that is a different story ))
    Finally the final assembling moment came and I have a quick question: what is the correct way to install the slide adjuster? Ramped or Flat side up? This is for the small brass, like 9x19 )))
    Is this correct? Thanks a lot
    K
    Click image for larger version. 

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Views:	13 
Size:	23.6 KB 
ID:	328591
    Ramp side up just like you have it. The ramp is not used when feeding pistol brass, so just slide it all the way open.

  14. #7294
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
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    2
    Thanks Tyler, a lot now it makes sense )))

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check