SWC's can be a bit challenging since the nose diameter is not much smaller then the base. That said, it can definitely handle them. Just have to get the plate ridge distance dialed in.Originally Posted by 45acp
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SWC's can be a bit challenging since the nose diameter is not much smaller then the base. That said, it can definitely handle them. Just have to get the plate ridge distance dialed in.
Here is the "Just Right" main body feeding 45ACP cases.
USAF Retired
WAR EAGLE!
"A government that does not trust its law abiding citizens to keep and bear arms is its self unworthy of trust."
- James Madison
Asked for and you delivered. Excellent work my friend.
Thanks sir! Couldnt have done it without you.
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USAF Retired
WAR EAGLE!
"A government that does not trust its law abiding citizens to keep and bear arms is its self unworthy of trust."
- James Madison
Was out of town for the last two days, but I got a little more printed.......no motor ordered yet....expensive dang things.....and I'm cheap....so it's painful not to be able to find one at a decent price.Think I'm going to order a "will call" from Grainger to save the shipping at least. That Dayton is over-priced. Should have waited for another print file using the motor TylerR suggested. Too bad he didn't think to print the first one for that motor.
I'll live......still happy with the new size! Thanks TylerR!!!
Below: My 308 plate for the normal sized collator was green and the .223 one was red. So for this big one I printed green to use the green clutch.
Below: The part to to keep soldiers knocked over printed right.....the adjustment slots lined up with the top holes on the collator perfectly!....always pleased with first print successes.
Last edited by GWS; 11-10-2021 at 11:23 PM.
Very nice! Looking forward to seeing it in action!
USAF Retired
WAR EAGLE!
"A government that does not trust its law abiding citizens to keep and bear arms is its self unworthy of trust."
- James Madison
That knockem them over part looks great. Do you want to contribute it to the project?Was out of town for the last two days, but I got a little more printed.......no motor ordered yet....expensive dang things.....and I'm cheap....so it's painful not to be able to find one at a decent price.
Below: My 308 plate for the normal sized collator was green and the .223 one was red. So for this big one I printed green to use the green clutch.
Below: The part to to keep soldiers knocked over printed right.....the adjustment slots lined up with the top holes on the collator perfectly!....always pleased with first print successes.
Last edited by TylerR; 11-12-2021 at 11:11 AM.
In your mailbox. Do with it what you want....it's yours now.
ok guys i read the manual and trying to use the parts generator but nothing is happing. I have ender 3 pro and dillion 650 press. its probably something supper easy that im over looking
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@texasknight78
Do you have Java installed on your computer ?? if so
the parts generator creates a zipped file called parts are you finding that folder and extracting it ??
I continue to be amazed. I have started questioning my decision to not get into 3D printing. Maybe after deer season I will see if I am still pumped up enough to do it.
Winters are long and cold in MI. 3D might be a good way to waste a bit of time and money and get some neat stuff made. Just a couple of questions about starting out. I figure the largest item I will ever make is the bullet collator and I would like to have something large enough to hold 400 .38 158 gr bullets. That is about 30 minutes of production for me on the 1050. What size collator would I need to print?
What machine would you guys suggest for a newbie? I do not enjoy tinkering so reliability and ease of use has value over price. And what filament(s) should I be using for things like the collator and bullet feed dies? Are there any suppliers of filament I should stay away from?
Lastly, is there a "3D Printing for Dummies' book you would recommend? I found this and wonder if there is something better.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/11...tag=wiley01-20
Don Verna
Normally, I'd recommend really anything by creality, like an ender 3 or the like. They tend to work ok, but, at least the older ones like mine, took a little fiddling to get going well. Nothing crazy. But in this case I'd recommend the prusa i3. It's kind of the machine the ender 3 is a Chinese knockoff of, and I like that they're open source. Should be plenty big enough for what you need. As for filament, I actually like the Amazon basics pla +. There's a ton of pla filament that is great now, I'm sure there will be plenty of recommendations. 3d printing nerd on YouTube does a good amount of machine reviews, and I feel he's pretty unbiased. CNC kitchen does a good amount of materials testing, testing strength and how things like nozzle temperature or filament martial(I don't think he really does brand testing).
Regardless of brand of the machine, you will have to do a little testing to see what temperature, and other settings your particular machine and filament like, it's kind of like load development.
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I for one am grateful for the "Chinese knockoffs". Normal people can easily get into the 3D hobby and the machines are perfectly adaquate. If only the European models were available I still wouldn't have one. Most of us could care less whether we can print toys in 5 colors.
There is some work involved during the learning curve and you'll have good days and bad days.....if that is a turn off then maybe you don't want to go down the rabbit hole.
What have I had to change to make prints I'm happy with? 1. Automatic bed leveling (I hated having to level the bed by hand. I use the one with no moving parts to break.) 2. I hated Creality's treated glass bed....had prints curl and lift in the corners too often. (TylerR told me to try Polypropylene clamped on top.....I did NOT want to fiddle with hairspray, gluesticks, and thin PEI layers. P.P. is near trouble free with an alcohol wipe after every print, if you sand the top once when you buy it using 220 sandpaper. 3. Get a slicer you can understand, and learn how to use it. Most of my failed prints were due to the slicer settings not the printer....MY Fault. (learning curve)
I only have experience with my Creality CR-10 Version 2. I bought it because I felt the Ender 3's smaller bed too limiting. I'm glad I did. The bigger collator I just printed, would not have been possible on an Ender 3. It has a 300x300mm bed. It's been great fun since I "tinkered" with it the first month automating the manual bed leveling and adding the P.P. bed.
I use mainly Overture and Zyltec PLA and PLA+
This was my first print (a single color toy) the second week ...... for my Grandson.
Last edited by GWS; 11-14-2021 at 02:05 AM.
GWS,nhyrun,
Thank you for sharing your thoughts and experience.
Don Verna
Below: the one I purchased for $500......now cheaper....and just now on sale even cheaper....$380! 300x300mm bed.
https://creality3d.shop/collections/...-v2-3d-printer
Below: the totally trouble-free auto bed leveler I bought from TH3D. Great directions great support and it works.....no moving plunger that can break.....believe me, you can give a command that can break those with plungers. I did not buy any of the accessory parts...using original springs, except that I bought the leveler mount....did not want to print one.
https://www.th3dstudio.com/product/e...-leveling-kit/
Finally below: the polypropylene bed see my post 5121...grey-green bed with spring clamps.....Just buy the right size, buy 4 spring clamps, turn your creality bed upside-down (smooth side up), and clamp them on.......then re-level the bed....done.
https://www.amazon.com/3103103mm-Mam...5802575&sr=8-1\
For a slicer I found IdeaMaker was the easiest slicer for me to learn..... If you buy Prusa Slicer or Cura, then don't ask me for help....I wouldn't have a clue. TylerR is a Cura fan....don't know any Prusa Fans...least I don't know they are fans.
Last edited by GWS; 11-15-2021 at 01:30 AM.
Don,
Looks like you have received a lot of great advice here. The only thing I would add is that I have been very happy with my Ender 5 Plus. It has a 350mm build surface and comes with BLTounch pre installed for auto leveling. The only thing I added was the polypropylene build plate. I do also run Octoprint which is very nice. I use Overture PLA pro almost exclusively for filament and it has worked out very well.
The parts generator is a bit out of sync with the actual files right now in some cases. There may be issues selecting APP parts, or bullet feed dies. My suggestion is to try running it with the basic components, such as the body, correct drop tube, mounts, collator plates, spring tube adapters, etc..... Just skip APP and Feed dies and see if it runs successfully. You always have the option to open the folders in the project and manually grab the files, which is what I do.
Last edited by TylerR; 11-15-2021 at 12:05 PM.
See? Here's the thing. None of us has experience with all the 3d printers. So how are we to know what's best for you vs. me....or TylerR or nhyrum or any one else? There is one other factor not mentioned, yet......size! Footprint! I mean where are you going to put it. When I bought mine, TylerR's Ender 5 Plus was not a product yet. I would have been tempted. But I would have had trouble making room. And, my CR-10 V2, was $500 then! The Ender 5 Plus is not much different than that now, though had it been out then it would have been way more money than it is now.
Then there is Octoprint....and a connected camera for it, so you can watch and even turn it off from work away from home. All wonderful.....if you are smart enough and flush enough to add that. Me? Maybe someday.....if I don't keep getting dumber....what old people are pone to. When I bought my printer, Octoprint was confusion I didn't need...already I had enough to figure out. Might have tipped me over the sanity edge...
So TylerR bought his bigger machine (adding to his Ender 3) and with the big bed he created Mongo the biggest collator.......we are grateful he went back and created the 300 size after that.....still, only those with 300 beds can print it, and fewer still the Mongo. You can print anything smaller than your bed size, but bigger models just are not feasible.
Nobody addressed your book..... I have to say that I learned by YouTube Videos not books. In this tech hobby, keeping a book up to date would be impossible. You'd have to buy one every 6 months at least. I mean look at Tyler's manual.....it has to be updated every month. There are a million YouTube videos.....buy a printer, THEN look for videos on that model or the model just older. For example I got the version 2 of the CR-10. There were lots of videos on the CR-10 and most of it was useful. Tyler's new one won't have as much help.....but the older Ender 5 stuff (not the bigger bed Plus version) will have more.....and much will apply.
One more thought. If you want this new hobby....just buy one. Get started....then worry about learning it.....you will then be committed to success....not wondering about it. I will guarantee two things.....a few days of frustration.....MANY Months of amazing fun. We can help with the frustration... get the P.P. bed for sure.....will prevent a lot of the frustration....
Hey, my "Z" arm started heading for the bed once and I couldn't stop it. Then when it hit the bed and tried to punch through it, I turned the power switch off......a bad learning curve day!We all have them .... It left a tiny divot in my P.P. top which was filled....or I could have turned it over.......but I learned you don't get impatient and set the "Z" to travel more than a inch or two at a time. I was glad I didn't have Tyler's BL touch (would have broke it)......but......buying a newer printer with a leveler built-in is a really good thing and one less thing to worry about.
When you break down and buy one, we will tell you how to "babystep" an important function to know how to use.
Last edited by GWS; 11-15-2021 at 12:26 PM.
ok i have the ender 3 pro so am trying to print the ETZGMP38 one. But using Cura it will not slice since it barley touches the greyed out area. No brim or anything like that, So my questions is, Is this the right one for me or do i need a different one?
Using Tapatalk
Standard size will fit an Ender 3. If there is gray area in the slicer it usually means some kind of build plate adhesion, brim or raft.
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| BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
| BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
| BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
| C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
| HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
| PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
| LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
| GC | Gas Check |
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