Making that Bullet Collator

[TylerR]

Hi guys, looking for a little clarification on which springs correlate with the corresponding adapter. Not seeing springs in half milometer steps as shown in the manual. The link you provide is to springs with 1.0mm wire diameter, but there is also 1.2mm as an option. Looks like adapter size plus 2mm. Just not wanting to order the wrong ones. Thanks

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3280...:%223339%22%7D

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3281...28844c4dYdm39m

Attachment 292104

"Parts G and H are numbered according to the spring tube’s inner diameter
(ID); the outer diameter (OD) must not exceed the chart values to the right."

It is not calling for 1.5mm springs. Just saying OD can not be greater then that value. So there is .5mm of buffer.

Go with the 1mm dia springs. That is what I have and they are great.

[M500]

That's what I was thinking. Thanks TylerR.

[Blackflag]

I'm using this motor from Grainger:
https://www.grainger.com/product/DAY...-12V-DC-52JE51

And this hex coupler:
https://www.amazon.com/HJ-Garden-Cou...3328346&sr=8-3

When i put it together, I noticed that the set screw on the coupler was sticking out and hitting the collator plate and not allowing one side to slide all the way down the shaft.

Would a small notch (.180) in the hex slip clutch fix this? The set screw is .150" wide.

[nhyrum]

I'm using this motor from Grainger:
https://www.grainger.com/product/DAY...-12V-DC-52JE51

And this hex coupler:
https://www.amazon.com/HJ-Garden-Cou...3328346&sr=8-3

When i put it together, I noticed that the set screw on the coupler was sticking out and hitting the collator plate and not allowing one side to slide all the way down the shaft.

Would a small notch (.180) in the hex slip clutch fix this? The set screw is .150" wide.

I think what's intended is for you to shave down the set screw but that notch would work too I guess

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

[TylerR]

I'm using this motor from Grainger:
https://www.grainger.com/product/DAY...-12V-DC-52JE51

And this hex coupler:
https://www.amazon.com/HJ-Garden-Cou...3328346&sr=8-3

When i put it together, I noticed that the set screw on the coupler was sticking out and hitting the collator plate and not allowing one side to slide all the way down the shaft.

Would a small notch (.180) in the hex slip clutch fix this? The set screw is .150" wide.

Simplest is to just grind the set screw slightly. There is no notch in the clutch anymore, because every hex coupler was different, so it did not make sense.

[Dsltech1]

Gws: petg should survive in the car. I have a AA/AAA battery box I printed out that stays in the dash of my service truck. I haven’t experienced any issues with it yet. I don’t have any black petg to spare. But I have 3 rolls of overture petg I don’t have a use for. It likes to run hot and takes sometime to dial in but it works. I think the colors are electric blue, transparent, and pink. I might have some light blue to spare in greengate as well.

Tyler: Are there any future plans for a 300mm 634 body?


Do prints still come out smooth after sanding with 220? I need to sand one of mine down it has some build up now. I was going to use 1500. Wonder if the 220 would help with the corner curl I get on large high infill prints.

[TylerR]

Gws: petg should survive in the car. I have a AA/AAA battery box I printed out that stays in the dash of my service truck. I haven’t experienced any issues with it yet. I don’t have any black petg to spare. But I have 3 rolls of overture petg I don’t have a use for. It likes to run hot and takes sometime to dial in but it works. I think the colors are electric blue, transparent, and pink. I might have some light blue to spare in greengate as well.

Tyler: Are there any future plans for a 300mm 634 body?


Do prints still come out smooth after sanding with 220? I need to sand one of mine down it has some build up now. I was going to use 1500. Wonder if the 220 would help with the corner curl I get on large high infill prints.

I had considered it, yes.
https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob...34JS_300mm.stl

I know 220 might sound like too much, but trust me it is perfect. Will not affect the smoothness of your print, and you want that texture to get good first layer adhesion.

[GWS]

Gws: petg should survive in the car. I have a AA/AAA battery box I printed out that stays in the dash of my service truck. I haven’t experienced any issues with it yet. I don’t have any black petg to spare. But I have 3 rolls of overture petg I don’t have a use for. It likes to run hot and takes sometime to dial in but it works. I think the colors are electric blue, transparent, and pink. I might have some light blue to spare in greengate as well.

Tyler: Are there any future plans for a 300mm 634 body?


Do prints still come out smooth after sanding with 220? I need to sand one of mine down it has some build up now. I was going to use 1500. Wonder if the 220 would help with the corner curl I get on large high infill prints.

Interesting! I'll only use black as I don't want it to stand out.....it goes on top of the dash of my FourRunner. Thanks for the info, tho.
I agree with TylerR! I love my P.P. print bed, and the 220 Grit sanding does not effect smooth as a baby's butt bottoms!

Still not finished with my big case feeder/collator. I've been busy perfecting a few things....and of course putting together some more electrics. I'm using a heavy duty speed control and separate switch and managed to get confused with TylerR's wiring diagram using a relay (yup managed to wire it wrong)............so I decided to get my Autocad out and printed another more detailed drawing........to help slower people like me do it right.

Here's the drawing:

(black screen means that the white wires represent the negative black side of the circuits....normally black wires.

Also posting a PDF file with the colors on a white background you can download & print below:

Attachment 292449

Sigh....yes I designed and printed yet another electrical box for both sensor and power switch. The .stl is for sale cheap if anyone want it....$0 too much?


Links to parts I used:

This is the big speed control I'm using: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QVONO20...roduct_details

The power switch: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07S2QJKTX...roduct_details

The Prox sensor/switch: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CWTQ3SF...roduct_details

The Relay: (you may not get the one pictured, but it's the same thing) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B888WVC...roduct_details

And the Hex to screw to the Dayton Motor: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QJWH35L...roduct_detailsAttachment 292449

[TylerR]

GWS, not sure if you ever saw this, but it is in the images folder. Another member here created a alternate wiring diagram a while back.

[GWS]

GWS, not sure if you ever saw this, but it is in the images folder. Another member here created a alternate wiring diagram a while back.

No I didn't. But I wanted a "picture" of how best to arrange it all in the box without losing track of which wire goes where and where I wanted wire nuts to be able to easily (somewhat) replace parts that might go bad.

Your diagram is right as rain, but easily mixed up since components are not arranged in my box.....some of us are easily confused.... I don't use a lit on/off switch. Using what I had and not a biggy for me.

However the prox switch stays lit up.....and that bothers me.....I have to turn the plug strip off. No biggy either, but it just bugs.

[TylerR]

However the prox switch stays lit up.....and that bothers me.....I have to turn the plug strip off. No biggy either, but it just bugs.

I had that issue too in my first one, and it bugged the heck out of me. But that was because I had the combo controller/switch and I didn't want to have to always turn the speed all the way down to off. I added a regular switch and made sure the prox was wired after it and all was good.

[GWS]

Okay......I looked closer at the drawing the "other" guy did and figured out what ALL my problems were.......on your drawing I took the wrong wire as the blue wire and wired it to the relay. So fixed everything by just reversing the black and blue Prox wires and it works perfect. Prox light is on only when the motors running....hurray!

Yes....I corrected the PDF and the black backgound picture just now.....so all's finally well in my posts and in New Mexico! well except for the demn government.

[TylerR]

Okay......I looked closer at the drawing the "other" guy did and figured out what ALL my problems were.......on your drawing I took the wrong wire as the blue wire and wired it to the relay. So fixed everything by just reversing the black and blue Prox wires and it works perfect. Prox light is on only when the motors running....hurray!

Yes....I corrected the PDF and the black backgound picture just now.....so all's finally well in my posts and in New Mexico! well except for the demn government.

So, I may have done the same thing you did at one point........ let's fix this.

I just went and changed mine. The wires coming out of the sensor now show the colors more clearly. Brown = Positive. Blue = Negative. Black = Relay.
https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob...0Schematic.png

[GWS]

Much Better! I can see clearly now!

[argus357]

Sorry, ignore my earlier post, didn’t notice the switch being used has an LED.

[GWS]

That's possible I suppose.....best not to. The negative in the switch is to light up the LED light in the switch when it turns on......I didn't use such a switch, but nothing wrong with using one. I figured if the motor turns on that's enough......if it doesn't I look for a full tube of cases or bullets. My simple switch has only two leads, but you can short it out if you plug in a negative wire too.

The Proximity switch has an LED that lights when motor's running but goes off when the sensor stops the motor when the tube fills. I'm just glad my blue/black wire mix up didn't fry that.

[nhyrum]

Ok, I'm slowly working on getting this feed die and system put together... I feel like I'm missing something between the top of the feed die and the bottom of the drop tube. It looks like the die should fit in the bottom, but the hole is quite a bit smaller, which to me would rule out shrinkage. Or should they fit together? I haven't measured bit it appears there's probably 3 to 4 millimeters difference

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[TylerR]

Ok, I'm slowly working on getting this feed die and system put together... I feel like I'm missing something between the top of the feed die and the bottom of the drop tube. It looks like the die should fit in the bottom, but the hole is quite a bit smaller, which to me would rule out shrinkage. Or should they fit together? I haven't measured bit it appears there's probably 3 to 4 millimeters difference

Those do fit together. They are designed to be printed high resolution (.12mm). One thing I have discovered with designing is, parts that have a close tolerance will be way off depending on the resolution. If I design a part around .2mm resolution and print them at .12mm, they will be way to lose, and vice versa. Not sure what resolution you printed at, but the ones pictured seem a little rough, so I suspect that is your issue. You can take care of it with a little sandpaper on both parts and you will be good to go.

That being said, if it is actually off by 3-4mm then you have something else going on.

[nhyrum]

I know the die I printed at .12 layers. Not sure about the drop tube. The spring adapter fits in the drop tube just fine... Is it supposed to be a slip fit? I don't think so, but just making sure that there doesn't need to be any vertical movement during operation before I start sanding.

Also, how do you decide which set of holes the bearings go in the die body? I assume the different hole sets are for different bullet and cartridge lengths? This one will be feeding the Lee 230 grain in 300 blackout and have the bearings in the upper most holes. I guess I just am after how they function so I can understand how to troubleshoot and understand which direction they'd need to go, even though here there's really only one way.

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[TylerR]

I know the die I printed at .12 layers. Not sure about the drop tube. The spring adapter fits in the drop tube just fine... Is it supposed to be a slip fit? I don't think so, but just making sure that there doesn't need to be any vertical movement during operation before I start sanding.

Also, how do you decide which set of holes the bearings go in the die body? I assume the different hole sets are for different bullet and cartridge lengths? This one will be feeding the Lee 230 grain in 300 blackout and have the bearings in the upper most holes. I guess I just am after how they function so I can understand how to troubleshoot and understand which direction they'd need to go, even though here there's really only one way.

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

Not a slip fit, no. Just loose enough to get it on there and have it be snug.,

Pick a set of holes where the bullet sits just a bit higher then the hole with the bullet in the case, and the case inserted in to the die insert. You can also just start with the lowest holes and test it out. If no issues go with it.