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Thread: Making that Bullet Collator

  1. #7221
    Boolit Master GWS's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Location
    New Mexico
    Posts
    1,361
    Your sensor doesn't look like what I have.....so I think you need to give us more info as to exactly which sensor you bought.

    As far as wiring, the following picture is how I wired mine:



    The sensor need to be a 3 wire lead normally closed (NC) inductive proximity sensor with a minimum detection range of 8mm

    Yours looks like a two wire sensor.....have no idea what it is.
    Last edited by GWS; Yesterday at 11:57 PM.

  2. #7222
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    May 2024
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    4
    Quote Originally Posted by GWS View Post
    If you can't figure it out get another Slicer......TylerR says Cura works fine.......for me IdeaMaker works fine. Look for a menu that has "thin-wall" options.....

    IdeaMaker's is in the "Other" menu. Looks like this:



    Also make SURE your printer is TUNED! That is, when the model is supposed to print .425 it really does. I think a good way to determine that is to print a cube 10 mm square and measure it with exactness.....calipers?

    TylerR may have even a better way......
    I have installed both Cura and IdeaMaker. None of these have profiles for Bambu P1S. (or any other Bambu printer )

  3. #7223
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    May 2024
    Posts
    4
    I have the 634JS. The shaft is D-shaped. It's unclear to me how I would connect the shaft with the collator plate. Afais it will just spin independent from the collator plate. What am I missing?
    Using the bf556 github repository.

  4. #7224
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Nov 2022
    Posts
    60
    Quote Originally Posted by doublemike View Post
    I have installed both Cura and IdeaMaker. None of these have profiles for Bambu P1S. (or any other Bambu printer )
    May want to hit up some bambu groups on FB to find the setting you need. Don't think many of us have Bambu machines.

  5. #7225
    Boolit Master TylerR's Avatar
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    Dec 2008
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    2,009
    Quote Originally Posted by doublemike View Post
    I have installed both Cura and IdeaMaker. None of these have profiles for Bambu P1S. (or any other Bambu printer )
    Quick google and tons of links. One even from a member here. This one seems to cover it. "Detect Thin Walls"
    https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/softwar...wall-generator

  6. #7226
    Boolit Master TylerR's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    2,009
    Quote Originally Posted by doublemike View Post
    I have the 634JS. The shaft is D-shaped. It's unclear to me how I would connect the shaft with the collator plate. Afais it will just spin independent from the collator plate. What am I missing?
    Using the bf556 github repository.
    This came up a few pages back. Here is my response.
    https://castboolits.gunloads.com/sho...=1#post5706755

  7. #7227
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
    Posts
    54
    Quote Originally Posted by GWS View Post
    Your sensor doesn't look like what I have.....so I think you need to give us more info as to exactly which sensor you bought.

    As far as wiring, the following picture is how I wired mine:



    The sensor need to be a 3 wire lead normally closed (NC) inductive proximity sensor with a minimum detection range of 8mm

    Yours looks like a two wire sensor.....have no idea what it is.
    Sensor is three wire, and is the one from the manual off eBay. Only difference in the wire diagram above you have is your switch has 2 connectors and mine has 3 which is the one from the manual as well. I wired it exactly as the wiring diagram in the images folder and manual. I will try another relay and another sensor as I ordered 3 of them but just didn't know if was sensor or relay side that would cause it not to turn off. Assumed it was Sensor side.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/333737317263

  8. #7228
    Boolit Master TylerR's Avatar
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    Dec 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by HuskJ View Post
    Sensor is three wire, and is the one from the manual off eBay. Only difference in the wire diagram above you have is your switch has 2 connectors and mine has 3 which is the one from the manual as well. I wired it exactly as the wiring diagram in the images folder and manual. I will try another relay and another sensor as I ordered 3 of them but just didn't know if was sensor or relay side that would cause it not to turn off. Assumed it was Sensor side.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/333737317263

    I can't see your picture well since it is really small as an attachment on CB, but If I would have to hazard a guess in my experience the motor is getting power regardless of the sensor. Maybe the difference is the two wire switch? If you can post a larger picture i can examine it more.

    It looks like from the pic the - in from the sensor is going to the #2 pin on the relay?

    Here is a pic of what I use for wiring:


    Green wire is negative in from the sensor.
    Top wires are 12v in from switch, and sensor. bottom wires are to the motor.

    white wire negative to sensor. red wire positive to sensor.
    Hope that helps.
    Last edited by TylerR; Today at 02:54 PM.

  9. #7229
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
    Posts
    54
    Quote Originally Posted by TylerR View Post
    I can't see your picture well since it is really small as an attachment on CB, but If I would have to hazard a guess in my experience the motor is getting power regardless of the sensor. Maybe the difference is the two wire switch? If you can post a larger picture i can examine it more.

    It looks like from the pic the - in from the sensor is going to the #2 pin on the relay?

    Here is a pic of what I use for wiring:


    Green wire is negative in from the sensor.
    Top wires are 12v in from switch, and sensor. bottom wires are to the motor.

    white wire negative to sensor. red wire positive to sensor.
    Hope that helps.
    I have black wire from sensor going to in negative on the relay (as in image in manual) and blue from the censor connected with - Power on speed controller and 12 V negative going to the - on the LED switch. I have Brown from the censor connected with + Power from the controller and + In from the relay going into the middle positive on the LED Switch. I then have the + 12 Volt going to the second + (end one) on the LED Switch. I tried to pm you a google drive larger image but I'll put here as well if it works. https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui=...id=f_lvvcgmqv0

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check