Making that Bullet Collator

[Gillie Dog]

Downloaded for me a month ago or so. Won't now.

Here you go.

Attachment 313912


GD

[Eviltoy]

I see so that flipper that I printed in conjunction with the one in the video is not used all good. Thank you so much

[Mbeavers1]

Thanks for the quick reply. By chance, have you tried to modify this for use with long small rifle bullets (88-90gr) .223? When I change the caliber in OpenSCAD to anything smaller, the outside end of the ramps get blocked off.

[Gillie Dog]

Thanks for the quick reply. By chance, have you tried to modify this for use with long small rifle bullets (88-90gr) .223? When I change the caliber in OpenSCAD to anything smaller, the outside end of the ramps get blocked off.

Nope, never tried one or modifications from collator plate generator/OpenSCAD. Good luck.

GD

[Gillie Dog]

I see so that flipper that I printed in conjunction with the one in the video is not used all good. Thank you so much

Check the other videos from the manual for different sweeper(s) also.


GD

[GWS]

Had anyone else had issues downloading the Long Rifle Bullet Plate #11 from Github? I can download every other file, but this one simply opens in a Chrome/Edge window and the file does not download. Any ideas?

The most trouble free way to download TylerR's project is the whole thing in one zip file, then unzip them all at once in a folder. That way every .stl file you could ever need from the project is on your computer, handy and ready to slice.

Go to the "Downloads" at the bottom of any TylerR post........click it.......look for the green button that says "CODE"....click it, then click "download zip" and wait 3 minutes......then unzip all.....move and name the folder to suit you and you have everything.....

and yes the #11 plate stl file is there and perfect.......and btw, I use the #11 as it is for most of my 30 cal rifle bullets even the short ones.....try it on your .223 the way it is before you give up. Then if those things are just too small then use TylerR's latest small rifle bullet plate.......or start with it. Looks like this:



With this use the #2 slide....

The only trouble I had with my first try with the plate-maker (also for .223) was the slide to ramp geometry.....as you can see from this early video..... (notice in the title still shots in both videos below....show the problem with those short 55's and the fix)



I remedied it with a little reshaping of the ramp in my case. Picture below shows the stock ramp and the modified one.


Modified one on the left.....
result was a bit more efficient..... 1 hung for a couple of seconds but then went by itself.....the rest was smooth sailing.


One last thing.....we were trying to find what worked, and that platemaker rendition had WAY too many risers! (every other hole was the better option I could have chosen) And later TylerR angled the risers and they became even more efficient, as in the first illustration above. You'll have to ask Tyler if he has had any problems with short 55grain .223's like in the videos, I don't think he modified the #2 slider since then or the ramp either.

If anyone wants an .stl of the modified ramp for those shorties, holler. For the long bullets the stock ramp ought to be just fine.

[JStuhlmiller]

Can anyone tell me which spring works the best (between the flipper and main body)?

I cannot figure out what I am doing wrong:

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/Uc4NUGimWQ8

[GWS]

Can anyone tell me which spring works the best (between the flipper and main body)?

I cannot figure out what I am doing wrong:

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/Uc4NUGimWQ8

Motor & plate is rotating the wrong way.....maybe you can reverse polarity?

I just use small thin wire compression spring. I bought a spring assortment off the web for cheap, and two sizes in it work fine. 9/32"x 1/2" long or 3/32"x 11/16" long....or anything in between. Get tiny wire sizes so it's easy to compress. I've got them at ACE hardware before in one-zies and two-zies for very cheap.

[MSUICEMAN]

I just used the spring from a pen... Because I didn't have a spring kit handy. Works fine.

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[MSUICEMAN]

Has anyone printed the large rifle brass collator plate lately with success? For some reason I've had three failed attempts all erroring in the exact same spot. Acts like a clog but there is none. My last print is usable, as I caught it on the layer it had issues, successfully paused and resumed. I've tried two different slices of it. It's strange as I haven't had any failed prints in a while. I printed another print after just to make sure it wasn't a machine issue without a problem.

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[GWS]

Has anyone printed the large rifle brass collator plate lately with success? For some reason I've had three failed attempts all erroring in the exact same spot. Acts like a clog but there is none. My last print is usable, as I caught it on the layer it had issues, successfully paused and resumed. I've tried two different slices of it. It's strange as I haven't had any failed prints in a while. I printed another print after just to make sure it wasn't a machine issue without a problem.

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Every once in a while my Creality CR10v2 does that. Quits feeding a good stream of media, for no reason I can see. The fix for me is taking the nozzle out, pulling the tubing out of the hot end, either replacing the tubing or cutting off a 1/2" or so at the bottom (if I have the length to do that).....making darn sure the cut is absolutely square so the media doesn't leak around it. Then heat the hot end again and make sure it is totally clean. Then I replace the nozzle with a new one while still hot, feed the tubing (cut or new) down tight against the nozzle (replace the tube anchor down there too if it won't hold it tight.) Then I'm good for another 4 months.

I wonder if I cause some of it by pushing hot media by hand sometimes to change colors or brand of media.....lately I am refraining from that to test that possibility. I have a bad habit of trying to hurry the starting of a print sometimes when changing media colors......probably should just print something unimportant during that transistion, then stop it and start the print I need once the color transition is done. Always learning something new with this hobby.

Any other thoughts from others?

[TylerR]

Thanks for the quick reply. By chance, have you tried to modify this for use with long small rifle bullets (88-90gr) .223? When I change the caliber in OpenSCAD to anything smaller, the outside end of the ramps get blocked off.

The code for the #11 plate is a bit of a hack job. I have not taken the time to go back and fix it.

[TylerR]

I remedied it with a little reshaping of the ramp in my case. Picture below shows the stock ramp and the modified one.

The ramp currently on github has a similar modification.

[TylerR]

Every once in a while my Creality CR10v2 does that. Quits feeding a good stream of media, for no reason I can see. The fix for me is taking the nozzle out, pulling the tubing out of the hot end, either replacing the tubing or cutting off a 1/2" or so at the bottom (if I have the length to do that).....making darn sure the cut is absolutely square so the media doesn't leak around it. Then heat the hot end again and make sure it is totally clean. Then I replace the nozzle with a new one while still hot, feed the tubing (cut or new) down tight against the nozzle (replace the tube anchor down there too if it won't hold it tight.) Then I'm good for another 4 months.

I wonder if I cause some of it by pushing hot media by hand sometimes to change colors or brand of media.....lately I am refraining from that to test that possibility. I have a bad habit of trying to hurry the starting of a print sometimes when changing media colors......probably should just print something unimportant during that transistion, then stop it and start the print I need once the color transition is done. Always learning something new with this hobby.

Any other thoughts from others?

This exact same thing happened to me a few weeks ago. I went through the same process. Alot of people recommend a "cold pull". I have never tried it.
https://all3dp.com/2/3d-printer-clog...d-atomic-pull/

[JStuhlmiller]

Motor & plate is rotating the wrong way.....maybe you can reverse polarity?

I just use small thin wire compression spring. I bought a spring assortment off the web for cheap, and two sizes in it work fine. 9/32"x 1/2" long or 3/32"x 11/16" long....or anything in between. Get tiny wire sizes so it's easy to compress. I've got them at ACE hardware before in one-zies and two-zies for very cheap.

Oh my lord, I stared at that thing for an hour trying to figure what was wrong. It is certainly reversed.


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[TylerR]

GWS where did your last post go? was going to comment on it. Looked really cool.

[GWS]

I'm repenting from my bad habit of getting off topic too often on this thread.....I did make a dedicated thread to it on THR.org, and got a tiny reaction, but there's just not many reloaders also doing 3D printing.

Link to it is........https://www.thehighroad.org/index.ph...#post-12630453 if you want to looksee, and it includes .stl files for .223 and .308 versions, plus the RCBS rifle bullet feeder die mods for those calibers all in one place.

.....That's a safe secure place to put it where it won't go away, but people on THR may have to search on GW Staar threads (my name there) to find it.........people that will, will be rarer than hens teeth, but that's ok.

There is a user on CastBoolits who asked for the .223 files, and they are on the castboolits reloading site. I can supply dsm source also if anyone asks. Might be useful to doing something similar with other brands of dies and presses. (Like Lee's new inline bullet feeders, but no one makes pistol seaters yet with windows.) Would make any 5 station progressive a 6 station when loading rifle at least. https://castboolits.gunloads.com/sho...=1#post5577978

Nobody makes pistol bullet seaters with windows.....so until that changes, only rifle loaders can do this.

[jamg]

Curious has anyone come across any files to adapt the case feeder to a 450/550? I seem to keep breaking the small hook on the Lee APP I've been using to deprime before wet tumbling. I have an old 450 that's just collecting dust that I think would be much more robust in this functiont

[GWS]

Curious has anyone come across any files to adapt the case feeder to a 450/550? I seem to keep breaking the small hook on the Lee APP I've been using to deprime before wet tumbling. I have an old 450 that's just collecting dust that I think would be much more robust in this functiont

Are you using Lee's stock slider base, or one of TylerR's slider bases. (assuming the hook is on that piece?) For either or both, I have burnished powdered graphite into both the rail and the slider bases, to make them more friction-free. I have not broke a hook, yet. I use a cotton rag to do that on the rail and Q-tips inside the recesses.....seems to be a good preventative.

The other "fix" I would probably use if I do break one, would be a hole drilled slowly in the heat sensitive plastic and replacing the hook with a panhead screw.

I don't use any blue presses, so can't help you with that.....maybe TylerR can help.....or other Dillon users.

[jamg]

Are you using Lee's stock slider base, or one of TylerR's slider bases. (assuming the hook is on that piece?) For either or both, I have burnished powdered graphite into both the rail and the slider bases, to make them more friction-free. I have not broke a hook, yet. I use a cotton rag to do that on the rail and Q-tips inside the recesses.....seems to be a good preventative.

The other "fix" I would probably use if I do break one, would be a hole drilled slowly in the heat sensitive plastic and replacing the hook with a panhead screw.

I don't use any blue presses, so can't help you with that.....maybe TylerR can help.....or other Dillon users.

I've been using the stock slider base, the last time I used the APP slider bases I have significant drag on the bases. I figured I had calibration problems with my printer, but after printing a few calibration prints I couldn't find the issue. At that point I just went back to the stock sliders.

The hook I'm breaking off is the round hook on the slider that attaches to the spring. The hook is attached the the plastic part that moves the shuttle back and forth, but also opens and closes the "jaws" that grip the brass case.