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Thread: Making that Bullet Collator

  1. #4641
    Boolit Master TylerR's Avatar
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    Just want to let everyone know the project will be maintained on github from here on out.

    https://github.com/BF556/Feeder

  2. #4642
    Boolit Mold
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    How important is the "wall" setting? The Creality software doesn't have a setting for that that I can find.

    I got the files downloaded, the project file collection created and after a couple of false starts I've got the Ender 5 printing away. I got stopped by Cura when it came to slicing the Main Body, it kept giving me errors about being too large to print. I Googled it, fiddled with he printer settings and then installed the Creality Slicer application, no problems, print file created. The Creality software wants to print a raft(?) under the parts, but it breaks off easily. The only setting I could not fine in the Creality application was the "wall" number from the collator manual.

  3. #4643
    Boolit Master TylerR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wbbh View Post
    How important is the "wall" setting? The Creality software doesn't have a setting for that that I can find.

    I got the files downloaded, the project file collection created and after a couple of false starts I've got the Ender 5 printing away. I got stopped by Cura when it came to slicing the Main Body, it kept giving me errors about being too large to print. I Googled it, fiddled with he printer settings and then installed the Creality Slicer application, no problems, print file created. The Creality software wants to print a raft(?) under the parts, but it breaks off easily. The only setting I could not fine in the Creality application was the "wall" number from the collator manual.
    Wall setting is very important. Infil percentage is what usually what people think of when trying to make parts strong, but wall thickness is just as, if not more important. Standard print settings for me is 2 walls .8mm thick each. so 1.6mm total. For stronger parts I will usually go up to 4.

    Cura was telling you the body would not fit because either raft or brim is turned on by default. If you go down to the "Build Plate Adhesion" section you should see it there, and set it to "None".
    Last edited by TylerR; 07-21-2021 at 10:04 PM.

  4. #4644
    Boolit Mold
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    Quote Originally Posted by TylerR View Post
    Wall setting is very important. Infil percentage is what usually what people think of when trying to make parts strong, but wall thickness is just, as if not more, important. Standard print settings for me is 2 walls .8mm thick each. so 1.6mm total. For stronger parts I will usually go up to 4.

    Cura was telling you the body would not fit because either raft or brim is turned on by default. If you go down to the "Build Plate Adhesion" section you should see it there, and set it to "None".
    Bingo! Thank you very much. Looks like I'll have some "spare" printed parts.

  5. #4645
    Boolit Master TylerR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wbbh View Post
    Bingo! Thank you very much. Looks like I'll have some "spare" printed parts.
    At least you don't have a part graveyard yet. I think mine would rival most.

  6. #4646
    Boolit Master GWS's Avatar
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    So if your walls are .8mm thick...does that mean you are using a .8 nozzle....or are you squeezing .8 out of a .4 nozzle. I get to thinking I've got this all figured out until the next print screws up. I've done quite well up to now, but tonight I was trying to print some APP parts and I had my first spaghetti experience.....must have an adhesion problem again. I changed the reel of PLA back to another brand I've used successfully before (Overture black PLA+) and most likely I forgot the settings I used with it. Feeling extra dumb today.

    I don't think I've ever set walls wider than .45.
    Last edited by GWS; 07-21-2021 at 11:33 PM.

  7. #4647
    Boolit Mold
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    Quote Originally Posted by TylerR View Post
    At least you don't have a part graveyard yet. I think mine would rival most.
    The price of knowledge, which we thank you for sharing. I just hope my collection never weighs as much as my box of reloading screwups, crushed cases, loads, etc.

  8. #4648
    Boolit Master TylerR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GWS View Post
    So if your walls are .8mm thick...does that mean you are using a .8 nozzle....or are you squeezing .8 out of a .4 nozzle. I get to thinking I've got this all figured out until the next print screws up. I've done quite well up to now, but tonight I was trying to print some APP parts and I had my first spaghetti experience.....must have an adhesion problem again. I changed the reel of PLA back to another brand I've used successfully before (Overture black PLA+) and most likely I forgot the settings I used with it. Feeling extra dumb today.

    I don't think I've ever set walls wider than .45.
    I was going to specify that but did not want it to make it any more confusing. I am using a .4mm nozzle (have never used anything else), so technically my 2 walls is 4 passes of the extruder. 4 walls is 8, etc.....

  9. #4649
    Boolit Master TylerR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GWS View Post
    So if your walls are .8mm thick...does that mean you are using a .8 nozzle....or are you squeezing .8 out of a .4 nozzle. I get to thinking I've got this all figured out until the next print screws up. I've done quite well up to now, but tonight I was trying to print some APP parts and I had my first spaghetti experience.....must have an adhesion problem again. I changed the reel of PLA back to another brand I've used successfully before (Overture black PLA+) and most likely I forgot the settings I used with it. Feeling extra dumb today.

    I don't think I've ever set walls wider than .45.
    Just wanted to say one other thing here my friend. I have been printing for 7+ years now, and one thing I know is that over time the print bed will move away from the nozzle. Don't ask me why. If it has been awhile make sure you re-level that bed.

  10. #4650
    Boolit Master GWS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TylerR View Post
    Just wanted to say one other thing here my friend. I have been printing for 7+ years now, and one thing I know is that over time the print bed will move away from the nozzle. Don't ask me why. If it has been awhile make sure you re-level that bed.
    Interesting....even with an autoleveler like EZABL pro? I'm also wondering if my nozzle is shot or clogged.....it doesn't act right.....today is take it all apart day....oh well, every day can't be fun.
    Last edited by GWS; 07-22-2021 at 12:27 PM.

  11. #4651
    Boolit Master TylerR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GWS View Post
    Interesting....even with an autoleveler like EZABL pro? I'm also wondering if my nozzle is shot or clogged.....it doesn't act right.....today is take it all apart day....oh well, every day can't be fun.
    I'll be honest, I have BLTouch on my E5+ and I don't even really use it. I just find manual leveling to be so easy I don't bother with it. I adjust my bed about once every 3 months.

  12. #4652
    Boolit Master TylerR's Avatar
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    So after saying that, I decided to go down and do some more playing around with BLtouch. Figure I have it I should probably use it. Started by doing another manual level, then ran an auto level mesh from the printer. Also played around with the Bed Visualizer plugin on Octoprint. Eventually got it to where I liked it.

    Added the M420 S1 code to the Gcode start scripts in Octoprint and did some test prints. I could confirm the auto leveling was working by holding on to the the z axes screw while it was printing. Definitely was making micro adjustments as the layer was printing. Pretty cool stuff. I will still plan on doing a manual level once in while to account for changes.
    Last edited by TylerR; 07-22-2021 at 07:23 PM.

  13. #4653
    Boolit Master GWS's Avatar
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    I had to pay a little more for the EZABL, but I liked the idea of no moving parts to break. It seems to work as well as the BLtouch. I haven't leveled the bed since I installed it.

    I took the feedtube and nozzle apart today, and found a lot of plastic where it shouldn't be. I think I may have caused that by my efforts to stop or reduce stringing by specifying longer retractions while using that weird green PLA that they substituted during covid.....I should have threw it out. I hate stringing and it was especially bad....especially inside tubes.

    What really makes me mad (at myself) is that I had the settings perfect....no stringing a few months ago, using the last green satin as well as the Overture black +. But the new stuff was terrible and needed different settings to even get by. I forgot to document those previous settings that worked so well with the Overture and the pre-covid Green Satin. It's really annoying that filament is so variable.....

    Bottom line: I've GOT to document better, so I don't have to rediscover what works......just dumb not to....learned my lesson.

  14. #4654
    Boolit Master TylerR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GWS View Post
    I had to pay a little more for the EZABL, but I liked the idea of no moving parts to break. It seems to work as well as the BLtouch. I haven't leveled the bed since I installed it.

    I took the feedtube and nozzle apart today, and found a lot of plastic where it shouldn't be. I think I may have caused that by my efforts to stop or reduce stringing by specifying longer retractions while using that weird green PLA that they substituted during covid.....I should have threw it out. I hate stringing and it was especially bad....especially inside tubes.

    What really makes me mad (at myself) is that I had the settings perfect....no stringing a few months ago, using the last green satin as well as the Overture black +. But the new stuff was terrible and needed different settings to even get by. I forgot to document those previous settings that worked so well with the Overture and the pre-covid Green Satin. It's really annoying that filament is so variable.....

    Bottom line: I've GOT to document better, so I don't have to rediscover what works......just dumb not to....learned my lesson.
    This is me at work now. In the old days I never wrote anything down. Never kept a calendar. Didn't have to because it was all retained in my head. These days I struggle to remember what I had for dinner last night.

    It's painful, and is actually forcing me to write $hit down now. Thank god for my wife and her calendar keeping. lol

  15. #4655
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    I am horrible at manually leveling a bed. Creality had a sale last week for 50% off an a Ender 5 got a plane ride to my house. Ordered a BLTouch but thats comeing from China. In the mean time the struggle is real. Use a post it note. Tram it all out to a hard scratch and first layer does not adhear... cuss and adjust bed on the fly. Need to check my z off set. Did not put on in but never know.

    You can save filament profiles and slicer settings.

    Sent from my SM-N970U using Tapatalk
    "Speak softly and carry a big stick; you will go far."
    ~Theodore Roosevelt~

  16. #4656
    Boolit Master GWS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rcmaveric View Post
    I am horrible at manually leveling a bed. Creality had a sale last week for 50% off an a Ender 5 got a plane ride to my house. Ordered a BLTouch but thats comeing from China. In the mean time the struggle is real. Use a post it note. Tram it all out to a hard scratch and first layer does not adhear... cuss and adjust bed on the fly. Need to check my z off set. Did not put on in but never know.

    You can save filament profiles and slicer settings.

    Sent from my SM-N970U using Tapatalk
    I would have never achieved what I have without babystepping Z offset most prints. Critical when you change filaments. That's the reason I have a skirt around the model. With Tyler's recommended pre-sanded polypropylene bed I never have to use anything else. I babystep the z offset while it prints the skirt. Two buts......1. small round parts where there's not much of a skirt (no time to adjust) and you can't see the skirt anyway with the nozzle apparatus always over it.) and 2. what I'm dealing with this week.....clogged up tube and nozzle, maybe from moisture, too much retraction, or who knows....worn out nozzle?

    A lot I still don't know or comprehend.
    Last edited by GWS; 07-23-2021 at 11:41 AM.

  17. #4657
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    I had clogging issues printing PTEG. The extra heat would degrade my cheap Creality PTFE tube. I went with all metal hotends. I have the Bigtreetech and Gulf Coast Robotics ones. Works great. They just run a little when heating up. The beginning gcode wipes the nozzle before printing so it isnt an issue just an annoyance.

    If your haveing clogging problems check your PTFE tube inside the hotend. Even if you have the Creality hot end fix.

    Sent from my SM-N970U using Tapatalk
    "Speak softly and carry a big stick; you will go far."
    ~Theodore Roosevelt~

  18. #4658
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    Iím having a little difficulty with overhang in the bullet drop die where the ball bearings go. Any suggestions on improving the accuracy in the print?





    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  19. #4659
    Boolit Master GWS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rcmaveric View Post

    You can save filament profiles and slicer settings.

    Sent from my SM-N970U using Tapatalk
    I know that part....but if you are as dumb as me you save and realize you didn't save to a new file.....so the last one is gone. doh....

  20. #4660
    Boolit Master TylerR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CS223 View Post
    I’m having a little difficulty with overhang in the bullet drop die where the ball bearings go. Any suggestions on improving the accuracy in the print.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    What are your print settings? Should be using a .4mm nozzle printing with .12mm layers.

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BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
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BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
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