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Thread: Making that Bullet Collator

  1. #4581
    Boolit Buddy



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    Quote Originally Posted by TylerR View Post
    Hey jdude. I went back and looked at the 3 parts. The minimum distance on the two drop tubes is above .4mm, so your slicer should not show a gap there unless you are using a larger nozzle. You were right about the #14 adapter though. The recessed "4" was less then .4mm. I fixed that and reposted.
    I am using a .4mm nozzle, not sure why it is doing it. 8mm+ drop tubes don't do it. Weird.
    Last edited by j_dude77; 06-14-2021 at 09:26 PM.

  2. #4582
    Boolit Master GWS's Avatar
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    I had to go back to the spring bullet knocker....just too many things to go wrong with a silent one.

    Here's a video of the finished design. It's similar to the .45 acp one....did away with plastic risers on the plate. I wanted to make them tall enough to make the baffle placement easy (just lay on top). But they broke under stress with a whole load of bullets, so I went back to steel posts the same height.....just two were required....near the edge, and 180 degrees away from another.

    Ran out of time tonight....I need to make the final changes to the parts. So final files will have to be tomorrow.....yeah always tomorrow....but this time it's done and it works. I also changed the spring knocker....with a dremel......so will make a pretty version of that tomorrow. Notice the slider custom made for this....requiring the knocker change.



    Adding a picture or two showing the flat plate minus PLA verticals, the slider, and and the modified knocker.



    The stainless 1/8" diameter wire, I got a Lowes or Home Depot in a 2' length....Dremel to 24mm lengths. I will add the holes clear through the plate in the design tomorrow. Should be a friction fit...pound them in flush to the bottom.

    Notice the two holes in the walls? The top one is for the .45 plate. I just rotated the baffle that much. The idea is to place the baffle over a plate....put a couple of spacers under it first, then drill with an angle drill or hand drill from the inside, through the three 3dprinted holes in the baffle. I used #3 hex head metric bolts.

    If you make the wires 24mm long for the 9mm plate you can just lay the baffle on top, but put a half a mm between to raise it just enough not to scrape. (thick paper ...a file folder?)



    Slider will be included in the files....it has a little trough in front of the wall. See the picture in my last posts.
    Below: Knocker is notched on top for the baffle piece on top. And notched on the bottom for the slider wall.....bullets didn't mind.



    Should get the files wrapped up tomorrow......geeze....I may have to learn how to cast boolits now........any tips to get started minus the mistakes and wasted purchases?
    Last edited by GWS; 06-17-2021 at 01:11 PM.

  3. #4583
    Boolit Master TylerR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GWS View Post
    I had to go back to the spring bullet knocker....just too many things to go wrong with a silent one.

    Here's a video of the finished design. It's similar to the .45 acp one....did away with plastic risers on the plate. I wanted to make them tall enough to make the baffle placement easy (just lay on top). But they broke under stress with a whole load of bullets, so I went back to steel posts the same height.....just two were required....one near the edge, and 180 degrees away another, but 10mm in from the edge.

    Ran out of time tonight....I need to make the final changes to the parts. So final files will have to be tomorrow.....yeah always tomorrow....but this time it's done and it works. I also changed the spring knocker....with a dremel......so will make a pretty version of that tomorrow. Notice the slider custom made for this....requiring the knocker change.

    Adding a picture or two showing the flat plate minus PLA verticals, the slider, and and the modified knocker.


    The stainless 1/8" diameter wire, I got a Lowes or Home Depot in a 2' length....Dremel to 24mm lengths. I will add the holes clear through the plate in the design tomorrow. Should be a friction fit...pound them in flush to the bottom.

    Notice the two holes in the walls? The top one is for the .45 plate. I just rotated the baffle that much. The idea is to place the baffle over a plate....put a couple of spacers under it first, then drill with an angle drill or hand drill from the inside, through the three 3dprinted holes in the baffle. I used #3 hex head metric bolts.

    If you make the wires 24mm long for the 9mm plate you can just lay the baffle on top, but put a half a mm between to raise it just enough not to scrape. (thick paper ...a file folder?)

    Slider will be included in the files....it has a little trough in front of the wall. See the picture in my last posts.
    Below: Knocker is notched on top for the baffle piece on top. And notched on the bottom for the slider wall.....bullets didn't mind.

    Should get the files wrapped up tomorrow......geeze....I may have to learn how to cast boolits now........any tips to get started minus the mistakes and wasted purchases?
    GWS, I love your ingenuity and creativeness with this design.

  4. #4584
    Boolit Buddy Phlier's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GWS View Post
    I had to go back to the spring bullet knocker....just too many things to go wrong with a silent one.

    Here's a video of the finished design. It's similar to the .45 acp one....did away with plastic risers on the plate. I wanted to make them tall enough to make the baffle placement easy (just lay on top). But they broke under stress with a whole load of bullets, so I went back to steel posts the same height.....just two were required....one near the edge, and 180 degrees away another, but 10mm in from the edge.

    Ran out of time tonight....I need to make the final changes to the parts. So final files will have to be tomorrow.....yeah always tomorrow....but this time it's done and it works. I also changed the spring knocker....with a dremel......so will make a pretty version of that tomorrow. Notice the slider custom made for this....requiring the knocker change.



    Adding a picture or two showing the flat plate minus PLA verticals, the slider, and and the modified knocker.



    The stainless 1/8" diameter wire, I got a Lowes or Home Depot in a 2' length....Dremel to 24mm lengths. I will add the holes clear through the plate in the design tomorrow. Should be a friction fit...pound them in flush to the bottom.

    Notice the two holes in the walls? The top one is for the .45 plate. I just rotated the baffle that much. The idea is to place the baffle over a plate....put a couple of spacers under it first, then drill with an angle drill or hand drill from the inside, through the three 3dprinted holes in the baffle. I used #3 hex head metric bolts.

    If you make the wires 24mm long for the 9mm plate you can just lay the baffle on top, but put a half a mm between to raise it just enough not to scrape. (thick paper ...a file folder?)



    Slider will be included in the files....it has a little trough in front of the wall. See the picture in my last posts.
    Below: Knocker is notched on top for the baffle piece on top. And notched on the bottom for the slider wall.....bullets didn't mind.



    Should get the files wrapped up tomorrow......geeze....I may have to learn how to cast boolits now........any tips to get started minus the mistakes and wasted purchases?
    No worries, GWS, I really appreciate all the work you're putting into this!

    My printer is currently having some Z-axis issues, which is pretty common on Ender 3 clones. I'm getting some parts in today to have a stab at getting them solved... it's losing Z-axis steps. That being the case, it's going to be a few more days before I can even start printing more BF parts/plates. So take your time.

    Cheap printers are capable of putting out some pretty nice prints, but they certainly aren't an out-of-the-box experience... they take some time, effort, etc. to get them up to scratch.
    "Things sure are a lot more like the way they are now than they used to be." --Yogi Berra

  5. #4585
    Boolit Master GWS's Avatar
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    Below: Picture of the modified flipper/knocker that works for my nose down AmmoMike size collator....noisy, annoying but the best way so far.

    Of course this is added to the files you can download.

    BTW, you might want to delete all the duplicated pictures of my posts so they don't use up so much band width....besides I think people might be getting sick of the color green! ....they may ban me....
    Last edited by GWS; 06-18-2021 at 07:11 PM.

  6. #4586
    Boolit Mold
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phlier View Post
    A JAR file is similar to a ZIP file. It stands for Java ARchive, and is a way to bundle a bunch of java files into one archive. So you'll need to "unzip" the JAR file like you do a Zip file in order to access the files in it. You'll need a program like "7-Zip" or the like to unpack the JAR.

    After you unpack the JAR, read the Manual for instructions on using the Parts Generator.

    Hmmm... Think this subject might make it into my Cliff Notes.
    After extracting the jar file, I click the generator and it opens a file in openscad that is the large pistol plate. The generator never actually opens. I’m sure it’s probably something small I’m not doing, but I can’t figure out. A buddy I gave the files to is having the same problem I am.

  7. #4587
    Boolit Master GWS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TylerR View Post
    GWS, I love your ingenuity and creativeness with this design.
    Okay Tyler back to you. (You all should know that I took advantage of TylerR's distracting busy Youth Baseball summer to post this back to the past little collator application.

    Interestingly my brother (a doctor with more money than me) just bought a Mr. Bullet feeder, and asked me to coach him on it. Yes I had offered to print him the cheap stuff. Anyway, it appears to be the same diameter as Ammo Mikes. The plastic they use is tough stuff and really heavy.....wondering if he drops it on the concrete floor whether it will shatter.....yup that hard. I see zero advantages to it over what we are doing on this site.....and it doesn't use clutches!!! Tyler, maybe you could sue them if they ever start.....

    I really ought to make a clutch for the ammo mike plates.....or did RedlegEd already do that?

    BTW, Tyler, I STILL love this polypropylene base plate you talked me into. It's just flawless! Sticks every time as long as I clean it with 99% alcohol before every print........and if I adulterate it with anything a quick light sanding with 220grit restores it in about 30 seconds.....it's THAT good.....saves SO much headache printing. It's been nearly ten months with no end in sight....the Creality one that came with my CR10 v2 lasted ONE MONTH! No hairspsray, no glue, no nothing!
    Last edited by GWS; 06-17-2021 at 01:02 PM.

  8. #4588
    Boolit Master TylerR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GWS View Post
    Okay Tyler back to you. (You all should know that I took advantage of TylerR's distracting busy Youth Baseball summer to post this back to the past little collator application.

    Interestingly my brother (a doctor with more money than me) just bought a Mr. Bullet feeder, and asked me to coach him on it. Yes I had offered to print him the cheap stuff. Anyway, it appears to be the same diameter as Ammo Mikes. The plastic they use is tough stuff and really heavy.....wondering if he drops it on the concrete floor whether it will shatter.....yup that hard. I see zero advantages to it over what we are doing on this site.....and it doesn't use clutches!!! Tyler, maybe you could sue them if they ever start.....

    I really ought to make a clutch for the ammo mike plates.....or did RedlegEd already do that?

    BTW, Tyler, I STILL love this polypropylene base plate you talked me into. It's just flawless! Sticks every time as long as I clean it with 99% alcohol before every print........and if I adulterate it with anything a quick light sanding with 220grit restores it in about 30 seconds.....it's THAT good.....saves SO much headache printing. It's been nearly ten months with no end in sight....the Creality one that came with my CR10 v2 lasted ONE MONTH! No hairspsray, no glue, no nothing!
    You can use the plate generator to create AM sized plates that work with the clutch for the bigger plates.

    I am really glad it is working as well for you as it does for me. Easiest, most reliable printing surface I have ever tried. And I do the exact same thing as you. If I get any major scratch or scuff on it, I just hit it with the sand paper again. Good as new.

  9. #4589
    Boolit Master TylerR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steveo2882 View Post
    After extracting the jar file, I click the generator and it opens a file in openscad that is the large pistol plate. The generator never actually opens. I’m sure it’s probably something small I’m not doing, but I can’t figure out. A buddy I gave the files to is having the same problem I am.
    You don't actually want to extract the jar. If you have java runtime installed, just double clicking the jar should launch the app. If it does not work you may want to try and re-install java.

    https://www.java.com/download/ie_manual.jsp

  10. #4590
    Boolit Master GWS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TylerR View Post
    You can use the plate generator to create AM sized plates that work with the clutch for the bigger plates.

    I am really glad it is working as well for you as it does for me. Easiest, most reliable printing surface I have ever tried. And I do the exact same thing as you. If I get any major scratch or scuff on it, I just hit it with the sand paper again. Good as new.
    ;

    Great! That will save me some time......should be able to get the measurements I need to add the feature to my plates.....that will fit your clutch parts (and mine) Hard to beat Ammo Mike's plate generator.....too bad I'll never be up to speed with that software, but I can steal measurements.

    With the little time I probably have left on this planet, I think it's better for me to design with what I know.......rather that spend all my time learning two new totally foreign programs. That would leave me with way less time to design. I know enough to just get me in trouble.......
    Last edited by GWS; 06-17-2021 at 04:01 PM.

  11. #4591
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    That was too easy, thanks TylerR.

    So here's the "really" final files....with the clutch center additional choice.



    TylerR will have to give you the clutch parts....that's his product. More than worth it. I probably would have so many broken plates had he thought of that clutch design in the beginning. Without one motors are hard on plates.

    These plates are not for the bigger post Ammo Mike collator bases designed by TylerR. These are too small.

    We may eventually make them for the bigger bases if there is demand. So far no such demand.
    Last edited by GWS; 06-18-2021 at 07:14 PM.

  12. #4592
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    Quote Originally Posted by GWS View Post
    That was too easy, thanks TylerR.

    So here's the "really" final files....with the clutch center additional choice.


    TylerR will have to give you the clutch parts....that's his product. More than worth it. I probably would have so many broken plates had he thought of that clutch design in the beginning. Without one motors are hard on plates.

    Don't bother to print these plates if you only printed the bigger post Ammo Mike collator bases. They are too small.
    GWS how did you get those funky offset holes in that plate?

  13. #4593
    Boolit Master GWS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TylerR View Post
    GWS how did you get those funky offset holes in that plate?

    push polyline hole through solid plate....now I have 2 solids distinct and separate
    then below, hole shape is arrayed around the center of the plate 18 holes

    then below autocad has a separation command .... choose the solid....then choose solid to separate....leaves the holes....


    I'll try to resize the first picture so you can read it.....




    There clear as mud, right?
    The way it works is....if a bullet starts going in, nose first, the enlongated shape allows it to fall with minimum upwards tilt. IOW's the baffle on top doesn't affect it's drop even tho the baffle is only 10 mm above the plate.

    However if it tries to go in base down it will have to tilt upwards more than the baffle allows (fatter base) before it can drop...therefore it will not drop....it just rides around at a tilt, above the surface, until the knocker knocks it back to the bottom.
    Last edited by GWS; 06-18-2021 at 11:57 AM.

  14. #4594
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    Wow, gents, thank you for all the work on this project!

    I think I'll be able to get started printing the GWS nose down plates tonight.
    "Things sure are a lot more like the way they are now than they used to be." --Yogi Berra

  15. #4595
    Boolit Master GWS's Avatar
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    I printed out and tested the latest clutched version and found out the 2 much smaller upright slots I added, still caused jams....or in the case of the clutched version slippage.(that's the point...slippage not breakage) The problem was the uprights were 3.33mm too close to the outside edge of the plate and caused "soldiers" (for which the uprights were added in the first place) to jam between the upright slots and the baffle protrusions.

    The cure was to shorten the upright slots by 3.33mm. Now as the slots rotate by, the soldiers (vertical bullets against the baffle) tip underneath the baffle perfectly, and the problem went away.

    So, Phlier, the files are corrected. So throw away what you downloaded and download once more from the last post with the files.....we will perfect this.

    (I'm not updating the old posts anymore, so go to the last posted zip. Post 4598)
    Last edited by GWS; 06-18-2021 at 07:18 PM.

  16. #4596
    Boolit Master TylerR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GWS View Post
    push polyline hole through solid plate....now I have 2 solids distinct and separate
    then below, hole shape is arrayed around the center of the plate 18 holes
    then below autocad has a separation command .... choose the solid....then choose solid to separate....leaves the holes....

    I'll try to resize the first picture so you can read it.....

    There clear as mud, right?
    The way it works is....if a bullet starts going in, nose first, the enlongated shape allows it to fall with minimum upwards tilt. IOW's the baffle on top doesn't affect it's drop even tho the baffle is only 10 mm above the plate.

    However if it tries to go in base down it will have to tilt upwards more than the baffle allows (fatter base) before it can drop...therefore it will not drop....it just rides around at a tilt, above the surface, until the knocker knocks it back to the bottom.
    For a guy who supposedly doesn't design, you sure do so damn good work man. That **** went right over my head. What did you do for a day job again?

  17. #4597
    Boolit Master GWS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TylerR View Post
    For a guy who supposedly doesn't design, you sure do so damn good work man. That **** went right over my head. What did you do for a day job again?
    I design and build homes and commercial buildings.....slightly different....all 2D. But Autocad which I've used for 50 years, does do 3D....I just had to buy a 3d printer to have the desire to learn that side! That emoji is what my brain feels like trying to do that.

    Trying to do this for Phlier gives me new respect for what you've accomplished. I've printed out 6 of these stupid 9mm plates now, and maybe it'll finally work 100%.....maybe....... It's just one stupid plate! You built a whole system.....
    Last edited by GWS; 06-18-2021 at 10:34 PM.

  18. #4598
    Boolit Buddy Phlier's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GWS View Post
    I printed out and tested the latest clutched version and found out the 2 much smaller upright slots I added, still caused jams....or in the case of the clutched version slippage.(that's the point...slippage not breakage) The problem was the uprights were 3.33mm too close to the outside edge of the plate and caused "soldiers" (for which the uprights were added in the first place) to jam between the upright slots and the baffle protrusions.

    The cure was to shorten the upright slots by 3.33mm. Now as the slots rotate by, the soldiers (vertical bullets against the baffle) tip underneath the baffle perfectly, and the problem went away.

    So, Phlier, the files are corrected. So throw away what you downloaded and download once more from the last post with the files.....we will perfect this.

    (I'm not updating the old posts anymore, so go to the last posted zip. Post 4598)
    GWS, you're my hero.

    Putting in all this work to help strangers out over the internet... You guys are top notch.

    I think your design for nose down boolit (and bullet) feeding is just brilliant.

    I'm still working on my Cliff Notes version of this thread, but I have to admit that the new printer has taken a lot of time away from that project; I have a very large number of pages left to go through still. I'm tempted to post what I have so far, and just add to it over time. I'm not going to contaminate this thread with it, though.. it'll be it's own thread.
    "Things sure are a lot more like the way they are now than they used to be." --Yogi Berra

  19. #4599
    Boolit Mold
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    When I open the mongo main in cura it’s too big for the printer. I’ve got my printer dimensions at 300x300x340. Is it bigger than that?

  20. #4600
    Boolit Master GWS's Avatar
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    The new Mongo version of TylerR's collator is for much bigger printers....my Creality CR10v2 @ 300x300x400 isn't big enough.

    However the regular sized base that fits your printer and mine....and even the smaller Ender 3's , works great for any bullet caliber, and I use a second one for brass. (.308 rifle brass works great using that size.)
    Last edited by GWS; 06-26-2021 at 01:42 AM.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check