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Thread: Making that Bullet Collator

  1. #6681
    Boolit Master GWS's Avatar
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    May be time to try what I use, IdeaMaker, or what TylerR uses, Cura. Hopefully you can find a printing template that'll work for your printer. I started out with Creality's slicer, and found it just barely usable, so I found IdeaMaker to try and ran with it. Both Cura and IdeaMaker are free....and there are others as well.

  2. #6682
    Boolit Master GWS's Avatar
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    Well I think you want to detect thin walls so checking not unchecking makes the most sense.

    I looked around for you and found this on a Bambulab forum:



    Maybe that will help.....I'll keep my eye out there if it doesn't.

  3. #6683
    Boolit Bub
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    Yo mates,
    just got home from todays Cup matches.

    I will try everything from start, tho thin line not making any difference yesterday it got me thinking of redoing yesterdays highlights.
    However I will do some proper reboots and reset everything and then save and restart the whole shebang again and try it again starting with the thin line checked.
    (Got this thought during the rainy windy competition today that all them firmware and software rollbacks and forth pherhaps got it not properly registering stuff so... maybe smart to try from start?!?)

    Sending print right now and I'll get back later (at least a stiff 50 mins and some secs printtime)

    Thanks for hangin in there and

  4. #6684
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    Quote Originally Posted by Silverbullit View Post
    Yo mates,
    just got home from todays Cup matches.

    I will try everything from start, tho thin line not making any difference yesterday it got me thinking of redoing yesterdays highlights.
    However I will do some proper reboots and reset everything and then save and restart the whole shebang again and try it again starting with the thin line checked.
    (Got this thought during the rainy windy competition today that all them firmware and software rollbacks and forth pherhaps got it not properly registering stuff so... maybe smart to try from start?!?)

    Sending print right now and I'll get back later (at least a stiff 50 mins and some secs printtime)

    Thanks for hangin in there and
    Did you make the change GWS posted?

  5. #6685
    Boolit Bub
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    Quote Originally Posted by GWS View Post
    Well I think you want to detect thin walls so checking not unchecking makes the most sense.

    I looked around for you and found this on a Bambulab forum:



    Maybe that will help.....I'll keep my eye out there if it doesn't.
    Yo mate, after saved settings & reboots it suddenly works! I now have wonderfully perfect printed 45acp bullet feeder dies!!!
    You the man GWS & of course TyleR too!!! ������

    Thin line seems to indeed have been the culprit, my confusion is why it did not work @ first prior to saves and reboots?!?

    Oh and sorry for not replying yesterdat, Im slow lazy and my g/f thought it was a priority to drive MIL to the emergency over printing bullet/shooter related stuff. Butt that was the wrong topic to object upon as both suddenly started taking deep breaths and puff clouds of napalm fire @ me... *scared*

    Anyway I bravely escaped from the dragon lai... emergency and finished printing the bfdies (bulletfeeder dies, not boyfrienddies) and they are perfect!!!

    Hey mates, anyone got a fridge full of budlights and room for an escapee, an fire extinguisher and an x1 printer who needs to lay low a couple of breaths?
    Last edited by Silverbullit; 09-18-2023 at 10:41 AM. Reason: MIL

  6. #6686
    Boolit Mold
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    Greg,
    Any idea where I can purchase a 3d slider from, I have opted not to buy a printer just yet, cannot find anyone to print for me.

    Thanks
    Mike

  7. #6687
    Boolit Master TylerR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shooter74 View Post
    Greg,
    Any idea where I can purchase a 3d slider from, I have opted not to buy a printer just yet, cannot find anyone to print for me.

    Thanks
    Mike
    which slider are you looking for. I can send you one for cost of shipping.

  8. #6688
    Boolit Master GWS's Avatar
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    Tyler, Shooter74 posted a request to buy this on THR. So I sent him this .STL hoping he'd find a friend or library who could print it for him. Good of you to offer....I can't match that right now. But here's the .STL done vertically the way I think we print this.....if my memory is right.....with supports to the bed.

    I just noticed you answered my email......I was remembering 60% overhang not 85%, so glad I asked. I was going to print another one for me so had just recently made the vertical .stl, which was timely, because a new APP owner was experiencing what we did with the stock part, 3 years ago. And I told them about your improvement over my paperclip fix.

    link to that thread if you're curious: https://www.thehighroad.org/index.ph...-cases.923396/
    Attached Files Attached Files
    Last edited by GWS; 09-27-2023 at 10:04 PM.

  9. #6689
    Boolit Master TylerR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GWS View Post
    Tyler, Shooter74 posted a request to buy this on THR. So I sent him this .STL hoping he'd find a friend or library who could print it for him. Good of you to offer....I can't match that right now. But here's the .STL done vertically the way I think we print this.....if my memory is right.....with supports to the bed.

    I just noticed you answered my email......I was remembering 60% overhang not 85%, so glad I asked. I was going to print another one for me so had just recently made the vertical .stl, which was timely, because a new APP owner was experiencing what we did with the stock part, 3 years a go. And I told them about your improvement over my paperclip fix.

    link to that thread if you're curious: https://www.thehighroad.org/index.ph...-cases.923396/
    Your memory serves you correct. 60 degrees is in the manual I believe. I simplify it to slightly less than 90 degrees these days. You just want to support the right angles off the build plate, so 60-89 degrees is fine.

    Thanks for the link. I will take a peak.

  10. #6690
    Boolit Master GWS's Avatar
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    It took more effort than I had in mind to print that slider. Can you say spaghetti? My slicer never has performed well depending on supports to keep a small skinny part upright and last night was no exception......sooooo......I modified the design slightly.....no supports and still got it to fit and work. Anyway here's some pictures of the result:


    No spaghetti! No supports!


    Temperature was 215C.....210C would've probably produced a cleaner print with less stringing....oh well...


    The mod was just to extend the end of the slide to the same length as the center hook-keeper and bevel things to reduce midair flats, so as to provide more base for the part on the bed yet not have to use support.

    Notice the angled area that hangs out there upside down did not print pretty, but that wasn't important to how it works. Other slicers and printers may do that better.....


    Went together after cleanup just fine.



    In the event anyone wants the modded .stl

    Lee APP Base Slide Vertical modded stl.zip
    Last edited by GWS; 09-29-2023 at 11:07 PM.

  11. #6691
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    Quote Originally Posted by GWS View Post
    I think we print this.....if my memory is right.....with supports to the bed.
    Yes, printed horizontal, supports to bed, works perfectly with Cura 5.2.2 slicer with default support settings. Almost no clean up.

    GD
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  12. #6692
    Boolit Master GWS's Avatar
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    Tyler said he prefers to print it vertically. Horizontally may work, but that lots of supports ..... how much time did it take to print? I'd have had no clean up if I'd paid attention to the temperature.....that was a factor of not paying attention...always a bad factor.

    But what I prefer is zero supports.....I hate the extra printing time supports require. Happy with how it came out. Think I'll print a couple more, since I have two sets of Lee slider parts, I think I'm going to order one more.....then I can have them set up for all three heights of case slider uppers.

    Update: Printed another at the lower temp. No difference. Needed the Xacto knife again. No biggie....a minute or two with it...still happy enough with the parts......no more spaghetti, no supports.

    I printed at .12 layer height....so it takes longer than printing at .2, but the part is real smooth....took 1 hour 50 minutes.
    Last edited by GWS; 10-01-2023 at 10:06 PM.

  13. #6693
    Boolit Buddy Gillie Dog's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GWS View Post
    Horizontally may work, but that lots of supports ..... how much time did it take to print?

    I printed at .12 layer height....so it takes longer than printing at .2, but the part is real smooth....took 1 hour 50 minutes.
    So horizontal with supports, 1 hour 30 minutes, vertical with support, 1 hour 46 minutes at .12 layer and 50 mm print speed.

    I was concerned about tipping over vertical even with the support but it worked fine. Vertical was a nicer print in the areas where horizontal print was held up by the supports.

    So both printed fine/usable.

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    GD
    Last edited by Gillie Dog; 10-02-2023 at 04:55 PM. Reason: Add pictures
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  14. #6694
    Boolit Master GWS's Avatar
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    Interesting....now we know....I have no idea what my print speed was set at....now you got me curious. Haven't changed that from the original template. On my first vertical using the unmodded design that fell over, I admit to trying a different support design from what I've used before.....will cross that one off.... But I haven't had a good experience building on supports....ever .... on a standing up model.
    Last edited by GWS; 10-02-2023 at 04:47 PM.

  15. #6695
    Boolit Master GWS's Avatar
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    A question about cura.....anyone use TH3D Ezabl bed leveler with Cura? If so, care to share the starting GCode commands that work? Never been able to get Cura to work with my printer using Ezabl......and for me, the Ezabl bed leveler is way more important than Cura, since IdeaMaker works awesome with it.
    Last edited by GWS; 10-03-2023 at 11:41 AM.

  16. #6696
    Boolit Buddy
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    I would think the same commands as a CRTouch would work. I can't think of why one probe wouldn't have the same startup (though you may have different preferences regarding meshes, and depending on firmware there may be some implications if you aren't on UBL yet).



    Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

  17. #6697
    Boolit Buddy Gillie Dog's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GWS View Post
    A question about cura.....anyone use TH3D Ezabl bed leveler with Cura? If so, care to share the starting GCode commands that work? Never been able to get Cura to work with my printer using Ezabl......and Ezabl is way more important than Cura, since IdeaMaker works awesome with it.
    Sent you PM on other board with files attached.

    I ran TH3D downloaded start and end code at beginning, worked just fine, then not being able to leave well enough alone I added some little extras which in the end only one of them is needed/wanted.

    This is in CURA 5.2.2, I have yet to download and test new version(s) of CURA. But should work fine with all versions. I changed to 5 point (25points) sensing in autobed level in firmware but changed back to 3 point (9points) because made no difference.

    I have gone to solid bed mounts, used .1, .2 and .3mm shims to get it "dead" level. Using autobed level it returns .048mm maximum difference between the 9 points. I have no clue if it helps or makes difference or not, just my OCD again.

    GD

    PS: I have watched the Z motors adjust as the print head moves around, like doing a 300mm collator plate outside circle. So autobed level is doing something. Have not watched it since adding shims to solid mounts.
    Last edited by Gillie Dog; 10-03-2023 at 11:47 AM.
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  18. #6698
    Boolit Buddy
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    I have an ezabl pro sitting around that I need to try again. Was getting repeatability issues, but I like the concept.

    Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

  19. #6699
    Boolit Master GWS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MSUICEMAN View Post
    I have an ezabl pro sitting around that I need to try again. Was getting repeatability issues, but I like the concept.
    .
    Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk
    Repeatability issues I've never seen......but then I did use a level first on my printer to get it close.....and I had to raise one side of the Z which made the horizontal Z bar out of square with the Creality Frame then relevel.....the first day I put it together....

    I wouldn't be without my Ezabl Pro...IMO auto-bedleveling is a must.

  20. #6700
    Boolit Buddy
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    Yeah, I was new to ABL systems and somewhat new to 3d printing at the time I tried it. It may have been something I did. If I get another printer, I will try it. Though my next printer will likely have another ABL system stock.

    One thing I didn't care for that I remember is the adjustment screw, when installing per instruction offset, was fairly inaccessible as to where it located in the mount. I grew impatient and just went back to manually leveling at the time.

    Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check